-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Thinning Touch up paint - from NickG
Top
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 00:39:15 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Thinning Touch up paint Touch-up paint is usually lacquer. Try using some lacquer thinner. Nick >added some Sunnyside specs paint thinner (low-odor Mineral Spirits) to >it...The container of Mineral Spirits said to use '..with a wide variety of >paints, varnishes, and enamls - wherever mineral spirits or turpentine is >recommended as a thinner. > >Well, the Duplicolor paint just kind of congealed under the influence of the >paint thinner...Whats going on here? I have no idea what type of paint is >in that duplicolor container, or what comes in the BMW touch up sticks for >that matter, so consequently, I have no idea what to thin it with....I >thought the all purpose stuff I used was ok, but apparently either it wasnt, >or the duplicolor stuff was too old to be thinned. > >So, can someone wiser on the subject that I tell me how to thin touch up >paint?
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: E36M3 Brakes - from B. Horne
Top
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 21:52:18 -0700 From: "B. Horne" <brianbmw@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: E36M3 Brakes Kim, I didn't see any direct response to your question of the hot set-up (at least while scrolling through re-posts of the entire digest!!! Arghhh!!!) so I'll give you my opinion. What I have had great success with in the past 2 years of track time with my M3 is Porterfield R4 pads and the floating rotors (OEM), and braided brake lines. Also use of ATE Super Blue and good braking technique. I strive to do good cool down laps and trips to the end of the access road after each session at SIR. I have warped very few rotors in my time in the M3 (more last year with the Pagids) probably 3 sets total in two years. I don't know if cryo treatment for the floaters does any good but I went ahead and had it done at One Cryo in Sumner. The street use suffers somewhat, Sean and Michael and others have advocated swapping pads/rotors but I'm too lazy to do that--besides my M3 sees little compulsory street time. If you can stand the noise leave the R4 pads on--if not get good at swapping. Hope this helps, Brian (At Mission today in a brand new E36 race car--Whoo Hoo!!!!) >Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 12:38:26 -0700 >From: "Burgess, Kim L" <Kim.Burgess@PSS.Boeing.com> >Subject: E36M3 Brakes > >Michael - or anyone in the know. > > I'll be the first to admit that my braking technique is not sorted out, yet. I have attended numerous schools with the BMW ACA here in Seattle. I have experienced brake fade numerous times and warpage with the stock stuff. I had an instructor take me for a few "hot" laps in my stock sub-ten-thousand mile E36 //M3. My brakes were never the same. That hard pedal feel is gone forever. Prior to any track time, a slight tap to the brake pedal used to be almost scary in terms of how quickly the car slowed from normal freeway speed. The dealer (bleeds me for $80.00 a try) can not seem to get me that original hard pedal feel that I once had. > What is the hot setup in terms of brakes (pads/rotors/fluid/lines) for a vehicle that is driven on the street and sees some elevated speed track time? > >KLBurgess
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Alternate track events - from Jim Powell
Top
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 21:53:53 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Alternate track events I need recommendations on alternate organizations holding track events in Southern California. The various Chapters of BMW CCA are undoubtably the best but due to personal circumstances, its unlikely I'll be attending any more Drivers Schools for quite a while, if ever. I may be able to make the occassional one day open track event if I can show up at the last minute. Have fun guys. Its been a blast. Jim
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Brake Fade (Long) - from Ricardo A. Venegas
Top
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 01:39:33 -0400 From: "Ricardo A. Venegas" <venegas@home.com> Subject: Brake Fade (Long) Well, after catching up to a few days worth of digests and reading all about warped rotors and eliminating the same, I still have a question. A few weekends ago I attended the NJBMWCCA chapter Lime Rock Park Driver's School. I run in the beginner's group. During the 3rd run group, after getting acclimated to the track (first time at LRP), I started to encounter some brake fade. This occurred after I had the opportunity to run a good number of laps without any traffic up front. This was only my third day (2 at Summit Point and 1 LRP) of driver training and had never experienced this before. My instructor noticed the difference from the 1st run when he took me out on the last (4th run). The brakes felt spongy during the drive home, but have since returned to normal. BTW, I haven't felt any symptoms of rotor warpage. Now for the basic info: 99 M3 with about 21K miles, stock rotors, stock pads, ATE Blue replaced less than one week before event, Michelin Pilot Sports. My instructor suggested I step up to track pads. I would like to hear your collective wisdom on what may have caused the fading (pads, fluid, rotors?) and why it went away? Lastly, any suggestions on how to avoid the situation and what I should do now? Thanks in advance, Ricardo
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: E36M3 touring spotted in Portland - from mill
Top
Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 09:57:28 +0200 From: mill <mill99@gmx.net> Subject: Re: E36M3 touring spotted in Portland >M3 touring from Europe (if one was available, Mill???) Ther are no E36 M3 Tourings made by BMW. Of course there are some tuners that install the M3 engine into a touring. M3-Aerodynamic stuff is available for the touring also (side skirts, m3 mirrors etc.). Maybe BMW does a Touring version of the E46-M3 (with AWD??) to show Audi how a good car is supposed to be ;-) mill 1993 M3, with brand new 2-piece cross spoke wheels : )
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: Out of Office AutoReply: [E36M3] E36M3 #31 - from Sean Hester
Top
Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 01:00:18 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Out of Office AutoReply: [E36M3] E36M3 #31 >I am away on business, returning 4/17. I will however, be checking e-mails >periodically. If you have an urgent technical or deployment issue, please >contact Rod Anderson at 435-9772. Thanks... thank god these people don't get single e-mails like i do and just get digests. i'm waiting for the day a single e-mailer has one of these auto-replies going. is there any defense against that? or will i get his message all 100 times a day? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: ] E36M3 Brakes - from Sean Hester
Top
Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 01:10:26 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: ] E36M3 Brakes >Isnt another possibility contributing to the lack of brake bite he used to >feel before his track event, the chance that the instructor managed to >'glaze' over the pads or rotors at high speeds? After all, he says he was >on hi speed laps with stock pads and rotors. that's a good possibility, but i got the impression (from the way she said "it's NEVER been the same" that it's been that way through more then one pad change. if you still have the same pads and rotors on the car, those are the first things to replace. (after changing the fluid) sorry if i misunderstood. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. RE: [E36M3] More on brake pads and rotors - from Sean Hester
Top
Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 01:16:05 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] More on brake pads and rotors >I wanted to thrown in one other braking technique that I've learn from a DE >at Road Atlanta. The jist of it was, when coming into a heavy braking >zone, >say 130->50 mph, do maximum braking as early as possible. That way, you >have 130mph of air cooling the brakes when the most heating (due to hardest >braking) is being generated. > >Rather than building up to max braking throughout the zone, as many do, >think of getting to max braking quickly, then tapering off. This will help >cool the brakes and will make the transition back on the throttle smoother, >especially if trail braking. Then end goal being to keep the time on the >brakes as short as possible. besides being good for the brakes that method (hard brakes early, tapering off at the end (which is the RIGHT way to do it)) is also good for the balance of the car and gets the weight where it needs to be for turn in. that means you'll be able to take the corner faster. if you're easy on the brakes at the start, then decide "oops i need more" and press harder, then get off at the last minute, all the weight is gonna be thrown off the front wheels and you won't have any traction. go read michael lord's treatise on correct braking. or at least remember the summary. "max braking quickly, then tapering off." ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: E36M3 Brakes - from Sean Hester
Top
Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 01:18:49 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: E36M3 Brakes >What I have had great success with in the past 2 years of track time with >my M3 is Porterfield R4 pads and the floating rotors (OEM), and braided >brake lines. Also use of ATE Super Blue and good braking technique. I >strive to do good cool down laps and trips to the end of the access road >after each session at SIR. if people are keeping score, that's EXACTLY what i use on my car. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade (Long) - from Sean Hester
Top
Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 01:27:50 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fade (Long) >My instructor suggested I step up to track pads. I would like to hear your >collective wisdom on what may have caused the fading (pads, fluid, rotors?) >and why it went away? Lastly, any suggestions on how to avoid the situation >and what I should do now? it was either pads or fluid or maybe the brake lines themselves. since you're using high temp fluid and it was new it's probably not that. (unless it was put in improperly and there were bubbles) that leaves pads and brake lines. i'll do brake lines first since it's a fresh topic. ;-) stock brake lines are rubber. when they get really hot fluid (even boiling) in them they stretch and bend lots of other bad things. this can lead to a spongy feel. it's easy to think about. if the brake lines are stretching when you press the pedal, of coruse you'll get a spongy feel. and since rubber cools down pretty slow that could explain why they felt wierd for a while (hours) but eventually cooled and firmed back up. get stainless steel braided lines. they're still rubber on the inside, but they have a metal braided coating that keeps the rubber from stretching or deforming when they get hot. now pads. stock pads have less friction when they heat up. that's the #1 cause of fade. brakes get hot. pads provide less friction. (fade) which means more braking to stop the car. which makes more heat. which makes less friction. (more fade) etc. track pads still provide good friction when they are hot. so track pads fade less. (or not at all 99% of the time) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com