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#1. Re: [E36M3] Why track pads don't warp rotors - from Sean Hester
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 10:48:46 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Why track pads don't warp rotors >As you surmised my "test" consisted of giving students and guests rides >around >the track as time permitted. I had new rotors up front and stock pads and >had no >problems... i wish i was one of you guys. that didn't warp rotors with stock pads. on the other hand, my friend james, uses race pads, and warps rotors every day. weather they're stock, euro floating, drilled, slotted, whatever. he warps or cracks them every day. now... he can get his M3 around the track 1-2 seconds faster then me too. i don't know if that's coincidence or not. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Its nothing but a miracle... - from Peter H Reinhart
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 14:18:28 -0400 From: Peter H Reinhart <reinhart@neuro.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Its nothing but a miracle... At 12:48 PM 4/10/00 -0500, Sean Hester wrote: >Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 10:43:44 PDT >From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Its nothing but a miracle... > >>Michael and all- >> >>I believe I am simply a freak of nature. So I headed up to VIR this >>weekend with my 95 M3... I used my regular breaking technique, brake hard >>and trail off, only >>braking as late and as hard as possible, invoking ABS at will.... as far >>as I can tell, my rotors aren't >>warped. Nah, you're not a freak of nature Sean. I've put about 40 track days on a set of floating rotors coupled with PF90s. Never had a warping problem. I was getting on the brakes pretty hard at VIR (what an *amazing track*) last weekend too, but no warping.....;-) I'm not complaining. Now tire wear on my Kumho's is another story... Cheers, Peter Reinhart red M3 ('71')
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#3. Re:Fire Extinguishers - from Greg Koenig
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 11:11:22 -0700 From: Greg Koenig <gregk@innrspc.com> Subject: Re:Fire Extinguishers on 04/10/00 9:38 AM, E36M3 at e36m3@bmwmpower.com wrote: Chip, For high end automotive use, Halon is really the only way to go. I have a total "thing" for fire extinguishers (don't really know why) and when I went looking for them, everyone told me to spend the extra cash for Halon. Kidde is sort of snow jobbing you with their answer towards powder extinguishers and electrical systems. The problem is that cleaning up the powder isn't as simple as it sounds, and in some cases, powder damage can be more expensive then had you let the car burn and called your insurance company. Having put out a car fire with powder, I can tell you it is NOT a fun experience (subtracting the lack of fun created by the fire itself). Powder is messy, smelly, hard to control, and virtually impossible to clean up. Halon, on the other hand, is virtually mess free (it evaporates), it is virtually a gas, so it goes around corners and stuff and it puts out fires fairly efficiently. Drawbacks? Halon works (as I have been told) by displacing the oxygen around the fire, so this means that it shouldn't be used in a closed cockpit unless you have your ass end out the door, your feet on the ground ready to get some air ASAP. For those of you who are racers, I was told by someone who I consider to be a trustworthy source that on his 2002 race car (which he was equipping with Halon) that he would NEVER pull the fire cord unless the car was at a full stop, his door was open and his belts were off. Basically, even though most governing bodies mandate that cars with onboard fire extinguisher systems have one or two nozzles in the passenger compartment, never use a Halon extinguisher as a "Save your ass" tool, just a "save the car" tool once you are already safe. Besides, if you are really racing with such a system in place, you are wearing a few layers of Nomex. So, back to Chip's case, I would say spring for Halon. Your best bet is to call a very cool local company called SafeCraft here in the SF Bay Area (San Leandro to be exact). They have a long history of servicing aircraft extinguisher systems, and have recently gotten into the consumer/motorsport market with a very high quality onboard fire system, and a line of VERY trick hand held extinguishers (if you saw the ones in the movie Mission to Mars, they make those). Check them out at www.safecraft.com. I have one of their 3lbs handheld models with the billet quick release bracket, it makes gadget junkies, design freaks and car nuts drool. The price for these things is very expensive though ($300 for a full extinguisher and billet aluminum mounting bracket, which is a work of art in itself), but these are the McLaren F1s of fire extinguishers. Not to worry, Safe Craft also carries a line of more pedestrian extinguishers filled with Halon at a much more reasonable cost. Greg '94 325is being prepared for the track '00 Discovery II for towing and running over stuff
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#4. Bay Area Shop for springs & shocks - from Jay Sala
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 02:34:05 +0800 From: Jay Sala <jsala@mist.com> Subject: Bay Area Shop for springs & shocks I'd appreciate it if someone could recommend a shop in the Bay Area to put the stock springs and shocks back in my E36 328i. The lease on the car expires May 1 and I need to remove the M3 suspension. I've gotten a quote for $450, but I hope to do better (no sense pouring money into the car now that the lease is expiring). I had paid $200 a year and half ago to put the M3 suspension in, but it seems that the shop has closed or moved... Thanks in advance. Jay Sala BMW CCA, Golden Gate Chapter E36 328i . . . gone in 15 days ....M3 suspension/wheels/tires/exhaust, JimC intake and Scroth 4pt harnesses all coming off..
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re:Fire Extinguishers - from Jim Conforti
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 12:37:27 -0600 From: Jim Conforti <lndshrk@xmission.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re:Fire Extinguishers Greg Koenig wrote: {lots of good Stuff) Let me second a few things.. 1) If you are getting an extinguisher for your vehicle, get HALON or stay on the porch. 2) If you have to fire the thing.. hold your breath because the stuff WILL extinguish you, just like the fire ;) (I actually had to fire a large Halon system back in Mass. in a computer room.. fire was out in like MILLI-seconds, or at least it seemed that quick.. I held my breath until I cleared the room)
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#6. FS: 97 M3 Coupe (Ft.Worth, TX) - from OLCHA@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 15:25:34 EDT From: OLCHA@aol.com Subject: FS: 97 M3 Coupe (Ft.Worth, TX) 1997 M3 2-door, Alpine White, Light gray interior, 27,000 miles, original owner. Sunroof, Heated Seats, Cruise, Split, fold down rear seats. 4 new Pilots (< 4000 mi.) 4 changes from stock: X-Brace, Eibach Sway Bars (have stock parts), 235/40 pilots in front instead of 225/40, All speakers replaced with Infinity Kappa Drivers. No track (I have a track car) It is perfect, even the front valence is excellent. Have window sticker and all records. 7 months left on Factory Warranty. $31,000 obo -Keith Olcha (817) 706-7678
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#7. Unknown - from Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 15:35:01 -0400 From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com Subject: Unknown Rich wrote: >>>I have a 95 M3 (with the original battery). Looks like the battery is on its last legs (reasonable life span from previous posts). I have seen random recommendations varying from Optima to Interstate. My first question: What does the group recommend as the easiest replacement (little or no retrofitting to factory location which provides factory amperage at a more reasonable price than the factory OEM battery (what is the part # and MSRP). Where can you buy your recommendation and how much?<<< Check Sears. I was in there a few weeks ago and they have a new "International Series" line. The guy said it was mostly for German cars and their odd sizes. We didn't take the time to look up the actual E36 fitment, but they had one that I thought was the correct group number with the vent tube. Don't remember the exact price, but it was under $100 and had something like a 100 month warranty. Seemed comparable to the Die Hard Gold series. Eric 95 M3 95 325i
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#8. Fender Liners - from Bryan Watts
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 15:59:33 -0400 From: "Bryan Watts" <wattba02@wfu.edu> Subject: Fender Liners Got in the M3 today and noticed that my tires are really scrubbing the front fender liners. Those 130 mph blasts on the track this weekend finally got to them. Also, the plastic underpanel (or whatever you call it) that attached to the front spoiler is about to fall off. So my questions are: What are the part numbers and approximate prices for the parts I need (LF and RF fender liners, all underpanel parts)? Does this include mounting harware? If not, what do I need? Also, what are the opinion on the JTD underpanel (without the brake cooling)? I want to go ahead and change this stuff out while I have the wheels off and the car up to change the rotors this week. Also, if anyone knows of a better source for these parts that would probably be cheaper than the local stealer, let me know. Thanks for the info. -Bryan
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#9. Re: [E36M3]Battery Replacement and Battery Tender - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 16:06:05 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] <Cross Post> Battery Replacement and Battery Tender Recommendatio 3 Choices that are better than a Batter Tender, in order of increasing $$$: 1. AC Solargizer (120 v only) 2. Receptacle Solargizer (can use sun or 120 V) 3. Marine receptacle Solargizer All perform the same in terms of battery maintenance. Vary in terms of power input and reliability. They will maintain a battery by forcing sulfates off the lead plates (got their via a process called "sulfation"...kinda like oxidation...that white crusty stuff) and back into the sulferic acid where God intended it to be. About $70. I own two. The military owns thousands...last big use was in some Desert Storm thing. They used 'em on jeeps, tanks, & planes. A U.S. jeep or tank that won't start because of a trashed battery is not a pretty site in the middle east I suspect. I love all mine. There are some military DOD documents (purchasing studies...public documents) I read before I purchased mine. Oh, and I read all the patents too. And if you want more on "Pulse Technology", you can read about the chemistry in T.R. Crompton's Battery Reference book ($295....sometimes I think I have more curiousity than sense, or more money than sense, or both) http://www.bhusa.com/news/us/subindex.asp?front=technical&back=management&middle=medical&mscssid=PKTVT54117SR2PV000A3HAMCSL0V9NF9 - Skip ....who has just completed disassembling his cell phone fast charger to figure out which chip was used by maxim-ic. "Dorffer, Rich" wrote: > > Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 13:16:33 -0400 > From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> > Subject: <Cross Post> Battery Replacement and Battery Tender Recommendatio > ns <Frequent Question> > > I have a 95 M3 (with the original battery). > > Looks like the battery is on its last legs (reasonable life span from > previous posts). I have seen random recommendations varying from Optima to > Interstate. > > My first question: What does the group recommend as the easiest replacement > (little or no retrofitting to factory location which provides factory > amperage at a more reasonable price than the factory OEM battery (what is > the part # and MSRP). Where can you buy your recommendation and how much? > > Second question: What does the group recommend for a battery tender? I > stored my car without one this winter knowing the battery was just about > done anyway but would like to avoid doing this to a new battery next year. > Where can you buy your recommendation and how much? > > Sorry this question gets asked a lot but I believe there may be some updates > from the last time this was asked that could help the group get up to speed > on the current status of the battery replacement and maintenance market. > > Thanks in advance. > > Best regards, > > Rich > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Fender Liners - from Lee, Peter
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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 16:08:49 -0400 From: "Lee, Peter " <plee@mlundy.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fender Liners Bryan, I had the same prob a year ago. With labor and parts, I paid around $120. But this was only for the center piece. So I would think that the total would be no more than $200. As for part nos., I don't have them on me now, but I'd be happy to provide them to you later tonight or tomorrow AM. Peter >>> "Bryan Watts" <wattba02@wfu.edu> 04/10/00 04:08PM >>> Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 15:59:33 -0400 From: "Bryan Watts" <wattba02@wfu.edu> Subject: Fender Liners Got in the M3 today and noticed that my tires are really scrubbing the front fender liners. Those 130 mph blasts on the track this weekend finally got to them. Also, the plastic underpanel (or whatever you call it) that attached to the front spoiler is about to fall off. So my questions are: What are the part numbers and approximate prices for the parts I need (LF and RF fender liners, all underpanel parts)? Does this include mounting harware? If not, what do I need? Also, what are the opinion on the JTD underpanel (without the brake cooling)? I want to go ahead and change this stuff out while I have the wheels off and the car up to change the rotors this week. Also, if anyone knows of a better source for these parts that would probably be cheaper than the local stealer, let me know. Thanks for the info. -Bryan ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************