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#1. Re: Fire Extinguishers - from Greg Koenig
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 04:38:38 -0700 From: Greg Koenig <gregk@innrspc.com> Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers > i wonder if i'd remember to hold my breath first. being in an upside down > burning race car will probably not be my most level headed, calm, rational > thinking experience. > > what if the safety crew fires it when you're unconsious? (still trapped in > the car) are you ok then? or in trouble? Sean, I would think that if you were trapped in the car and you used ANY sort of fire system, you are going to be in trouble. Yes, Halon does displace the oxygen in the air, but would you really want to be inhaling the powder from another extinguisher? or drown in foam? None of these options exactly appeal to me, but they are all survivable compared to smoke inhalation for the same amount of time. However, I agree with you... I don't know how I would act if my car were to catch on fire down the front strait at Laguna. Chances are, my first reaction would be to pull the big red "FIRE" handle. My plan for the car I am building is as follows: I am going to install a 15lbs Halon bottle in the trunk with a 3 nozzle tube. One nozzle is going to the top of the fuel tank (where the two pumps are) with most of the spray hitting the outlet tubes to the engine. The 2nd nozzle will spray the fuel pressure regulator area, from the firewall, and the third nozzle is going to cover the oil filter area because there are a lot of new tubes coming out of it for an oil cooler and the senders for the Stack dash. This might not be important, so the 3rd nozzle will spray the exhaust side of the engine, I am not sure yet. Anyhow, you will notice I don't have one hitting the passenger compartment, where I will install a handheld 3lbs extinguisher. This way, I can pull the cord as I get the car off the track and probably kill the fire. If it continues, I have the handheld to help get me out of the car, or use for spot fires in areas that are not covered by the onboard system. Greg
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#2. Stereo ?'s... - from Luis H Rueda
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 07:58:38 -0400 From: "Luis H Rueda" <luis_h_rueda@email.mobil.com> Subject: Stereo ?'s... A friend of mine's has a '97 4dr M3 & he's looking to install a subwoofer. He has some ?'s for which I don't have answers to. perhaps somebody on the list may know the answer. Below is a copy of his email. Your help is appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help. Luis '95 M3 '00 Honda RC51 "sometime this month" <Luis, I'm still looking into the whole SubWoofer deal, and I've run into a bit of roadblock: I'm NOT willing to splice into the car's wiring loom, but I can't find connectors to use so I don't have to. I'm going to stop by Heishman tonight, but I was curious if you knew anywhere I might find such things>
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#3. FS: '95 Dinan M3 - from Carl Jerritts
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 07:19:27 -0600 From: Carl Jerritts <carl@liquidwebs.com> Subject: FS: '95 Dinan M3 Wow, after voicing my frustrations, I got a ton of email from people equally frustrated with their cars/dealers. As much as I love the M3, I just don't have time for the dealer anymore so I am selling the car and the specs follow: ’95 M3 47K miles Arctic Silver/Mulberry Leather Luxury Package Sunroof Heated Seats Dinan Stage 3 Suspension Dinan Stage 3 Normally Aspirated Motor Package(CIA, Exhaust, Euro AFM, Injectors, etc.) Dinan Strut Tower Braces(front & rear) RD Sport Adjustable Class 3 Front Splitter RD Sport 17" Wheels Euro Rotors Euro Clear Indicators Xenon Headlights(based on the euro assemblies) JT Motor Sports Stage 3 Brake Duct Kit/Engine Pan Milos CF Gauge Cluster X Brace RD Sport Class 3 Wing(Not on the car and missing top half, this would cost about $400 to replace) I’m sure that I am forgetting something here. Anyway, it is in great shape aside from the usual problems with annoying dealers. All mods were done in the last 8K miles so they are very low mileage. Looking for a quick sale so feel free to make offers or contact me. The car is in Boulder Colorado. Carl 303-545-5523
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#4. Repair front spoiler damage - from Stephen L. Diamond
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:10:37 -0700 From: "Stephen L. Diamond" <diamond@picosoft.com> Subject: Repair front spoiler damage I hit a tire casing in the middle of the highway yesterday. It tore off the front spoiler, popped the fog-lights out of the housings, lost one of the brake cooling ducts, and I'm not quite sure what else. In having this damage repaired, is there anything special I should look out for? Thanks. Regards, Steve '97 M3
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Stereo ?'s... - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:16:52 -0700 From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Stereo ?'s... Radio Shack sells a line converter for turning standard speaker outputs into RCA outs. You still will need to splice into the speaker wire at the head unit, but you can use clip-on splicers (not cutting any wires) and then plug the wires into that. Use the same clip-on splicers to tap into a signal to turn on the amp. The cool thing about those clip-on's is that if you pull the stuff later, all you need to do is un-snap the splicer and cover the exposed sire with black tape. Good as new. Once you've got the RCA outs, you do the install same as with an aftermarket head unit. I have a friend you did this in his Honda to hide the fact that he had multiple amps, upgraded speakers, sub, etc., by using the stock head unit. He even wired an on/off switch in his dash for the sub (wife in car, sub off. wife not in car, sub on.). VERY slick install. -p -----Original Message----- From: Luis H Rueda [mailto:luis_h_rueda@email.mobil.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 5:09 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Stereo ?'s... Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 07:58:38 -0400 From: "Luis H Rueda" <luis_h_rueda@email.mobil.com> Subject: Stereo ?'s... A friend of mine's has a '97 4dr M3 & he's looking to install a subwoofer. He has some ?'s for which I don't have answers to. perhaps somebody on the list may know the answer. Below is a copy of his email. Your help is appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help. Luis '95 M3 '00 Honda RC51 "sometime this month" <Luis, I'm still looking into the whole SubWoofer deal, and I've run into a bit of roadblock: I'm NOT willing to splice into the car's wiring loom, but I can't find connectors to use so I don't have to. I'm going to stop by Heishman tonight, but I was curious if you knew anywhere I might find such things> ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Fender Liners for $18.00? - from Land Shark
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 09:56:34 -0600 From: Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fender Liners for $18.00? At 12:48 AM 4/11/00 -0500, LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: >Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 01:39:00 EDT >From: LoweSeaton@aol.com >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fender Liners for $18.00? > >Maybe not $18 but you won't have to deplete your kid's college fund either. > >Left front fender liner 51-71-1-977-047 >Right front fender liner 51-71-1-977-048 Dealer cost is 18.10, list is $30.25 JC
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#7. Unknown - from John DeMartino
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 09:20:26 -0700 (PDT) From: John DeMartino <jjdema@yahoo.com> Subject: Unknown Hi Kim, I had the same concern after my first track day. I had a 99 M3 with 6k miles and I warped my rotors at Laguna Seca. However, the vibration was only felt when the rotors got very hot, i.e. towards the end of a hot session. On the street they are fine. What bothered me, like you, was the lack of bite you describe, as well as a gritty feeling and sound in the pedal on Monday. What I found, after three track days now, is that I lose that bite for about a week after a track day. However, I find that after a week of normal street driving, the bite returns. My presumption is that there is a transfer of material from the pads to the rotors (everything is stock), thus the feeling of grittiness, and lack of friction. Normal use wears the transferred particles off and everything returns to normal. An interesting note is though I got warpage on my first and second track days, my third, at Buttonwillow, I got none. Presumable due to improved braking technique. If you still have a soft pedal, maybe you need some new fluid. Good luck, John _____ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger <http://im.yahoo.com/>
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#8. Re: [E36M3] The Biggest Pile Of Garbage That I Have Ever Owned....HELP! - from Sean Hester
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 10:20:31 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The Biggest Pile Of Garbage That I Have Ever Owned....HELP! >Slight rattle(ball bearingy noise) for a few seconds upon cold start, >dealer pulled valve cover to inspect, found nothing, changed oil and >said it was fixed. It’s not and now the VANOS unit is buzzing like mad. >It buzzes on start up and if you pop the hood and blip the throttle with >your hand on the VANOS cover, it not only buzzes but feels like a rubber >impeller is whacking the bottom of the cover. The local dealer doesn’t >want to deal with it and want’s me to keep driving the car until they >have time to look at it! The VANOS unit was replaced about 14 months ago >and has about 6K miles on it by a fairly competant Denver dealer when it >was doing the same thing. > >What do I do? Is this normal for an M3? Is there a permanent fix? i have a 95. i'm on my 3rd vanos gear. i'm pretty sure there must be SOMETHING wrong with another part of my car that is breaking my vanos gears, but heck, as long as they keep giving me free vanos gears i'll let them keep doing it. maybe after a while they'll want to see why they are breaking and fix that? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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#9. Re: "Spinning" shock hats instead of swapping - from BobTunnell@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 13:33:11 EDT From: BobTunnell@aol.com Subject: Re: "Spinning" shock hats instead of swapping Been out of town for a few days and missed a couple digests (39 & 40) so I apologize if this has been dealt with... > He said instead of swapping the shock hats, he can "spin" > them 120 degrees and get loads of camber. > >>I believe the "spinning" was for the 95 M3, while on 96+ M3s you can swap >>'em L<->R. 95's M3's came with non-eccentric hats. 96+ M3's came with eccentric hats offset with approx. 1/2 degree negative camber. Both models of hats will fit any E36. Installing 96+ hats on the "incorrect" side of a 95 will give 1/2 degree more negative than before. Swapping 96+ hats on a 96+ car will give 1 degree more negative camber than before. "Spinning" hats on any year E36 M3 will give approx. 3 degrees more camber than before. But... it will also remove a *lot* of caster (I don't know how much, but I'm guessing 5+ degrees). It shouldn't do anything unsafe to the car, other than making it a bit trickier to drive on the street. <g> I know a couple drivers who use this method and swear by it. However, these drivers also howl at the moon and have been known to eat their young. Me, I prefer good camber/caster plates. Your call. --Bob PS. Just FYI... "Spinning" hats is not legal in SCCA Stock class autocrossing or Club Racing Touring or Showroom Stock. "Swapping" hats is legal in some SCCA SR and autox classes. RTFRB.
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#10. Re: Basic driving question (stick) - from Sean Hester
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Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 10:40:23 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Basic driving question (stick) >A novice may assume that, since you must apply the clutch >when you are full-stopping, that you need to apply the clutch whenever the >brake is applied. maybe i'm nuts but even when i'm coming to a full stop i don't think of the clutch and brakes as being connected in any way. this is ESPECIALLY true now that i constantly practice heel and toe, but even before. in the OLD days (before i heel and toe) when coming to a complete stop, i'd apply brakes, leave the car in whatever gear i was in, and leave me foot away from the clutch. when my car approached 2k rpms, i'd put in the clutch, shift to neutral, and be back OFF the clutch. my foot on the brake the whole time. (before, during, and after the clutching.) eventually i'd stop. it just doesn't seem that connected to me. the fact that the clutch was in and out once while the brake was applied is a coincidence. in the NEW days (that i practice heel and toe) when coming to a complete stop, i apply the brakes, heel and toe down a gear (clucth in and out very fast), slow some more, heel and toe down a gear (clucth in and out very fast) etc... until i eventually have to go to neutral. so again, i applied the brakes one long time, and the clutch was in and out a few times, with no relation to the braking. ----------- maybe the disconnect is my end position? i end with my car in neutral and the clutch OUT. i only shift back to 1st and put the clutch in RIGHT BEFORE i'm gonna start moving again. if you're the type that sits at a light with the clutch in the whole time, i guess maybe you'd get used to the feeling of "when brake is in, clutch is in". maybe it's because my clutch is so heavy, but i can't stand to sit with my clutch in for more then 2 seconds. if were teaching someone how to drive a clutch (i never have and probably never will) i'd INSIST that the brake and clutch were not related. no more related then the clutch and the steering wheel. in fact if someone ever pressed the clutch and brake at the same time i'd think that was a BAD BAD thing. and tell them to stop doing it. i can't think of a single reason to apply both at the same time. and before anyone brings up "both feet in for a spin" i don't even think i'd teach that to someone i was teaching how to drive a clutch. who cares if the engine stays running when you spin? this isn't a race lesson. am i nuts? i think it's a BAD thing for someone to press the clutch and the brake at the same time when coming to complete stop. is that the way most people do it? i must admit no one taught me to drive a clutch. when i was in college and away from parents, i just up and bought a clutch car. i figured out how to make it go on my own. so i missed any "words of wisdom" about how to do it. the only "clutching lessons" i ever had were from race schools. (where if i ever pressed the clutch and brake at the same time i was YELLED at) so i know for racing, it's proper to treat them as totally unrelated. but does that apply to street driving too? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com