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#1. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #77 - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 17:31:42 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neilmaller@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #77 On 4/21/00 9:58 E36M3 e36m3@bmwmpower.com wrote: >Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 08:55:40 -0500 >From: "Rich Gay" <rich_gay@linbeck.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] BFG G-Force R1A experience? > >> In a message dated 4/20/00 7:21:17 PM, tbspot@groupz.net writes: >> >>> Anybody tried the 2nd generation G-force R1A's on a E36 M3? My choices >>> of track tires is getting more limited. Now the Yokos are out of stock >>> as well as the Kuhmos. It looks like it is either Hoosier or BFG now. >>> Crank up the tire budget! > >Actually, Kuhmo's seem to be available right now. I've got a set being >mounted today at the local (Sugar Land, TX) local Discount Tire, and Tire >Rack also told me they have 'em in stock in the 245/45/17 size. > Rich, How's the fit/clearance with the 245/45 size? I thought that most M3 owners were using 225/45, since Kumho doesn't ahve a 245/40. Neil 96 M3 - Enquiring minds...
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 16:38:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <clopez95m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. Jim Powell wrote: >You have to insert a 16mm wrench into the front sway bar link when you >tighten it up. This holds the 'bolt' section while you tighten the >nut down. Another alternative to grinding down your Crapsman wrenches is to buy some wrenches from a bike shop, they're quite thin. Plus Bike shops don't move around as much as the Snap-on truck guy does. <g> I would suggest *initially* setting the sway bars to full soft, wouldn't you guys? Only after trying this out would I set the rear one to full hard to get more oversteer. Carlos. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. - from Jim Powell
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 17:25:58 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. yep. Jim "Heckendorf, David" wrote: > > Yup, as I tried to document in #5. I didn't have any problem with the width > of my wrenches (Craftsman from the days of yore before they became Crapsman) > upon tightening; but, I can certainly see how that would be problematic > (presumably the wrench would get pinned between the sway bar and the front > link upon tightening if it was too thick?). > > Regards, > Dave > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Powell [mailto:jsp98m3@home.com] > Sent: Friday, April 21, 2000 12:56 PM > To: Heckendorf, David > Cc: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. > > Quick additional note: > > You have to insert a 16mm wrench into the front sway bar link when you > tighten > it up. This holds the 'bolt' section while you tighten the nut down. There > isn't much room in there and a normal thickness wrench will hold the link > slightly away from the bar so that you can't tighten it down all the way. I > found this out after doing Patrick Sarne's suspension with him. I > subsequently > bought an extra Craftsman wrench and ground it down thin. At the time I > didn't > have a set of Snap-on wrenches which are thin enough in profile not to > interfere. > > Jim > > "Heckendorf, David" wrote: > > > Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 15:46:21 -0400 > > From: "Heckendorf, David" <DHeckendorf@MediaOne.com> > > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. > > > > Jonathan, > > > > I just did the Eibachs on my '98 M3/4 a couple of weekends ago... > > > > A few of suggestions: > > > > 1) Jack of the car one end at a time (and then support it with jack > stands > > (this is gain you some additional room under the car). > > 2) Be VERY liberal with the grease on the bushings (you don't want to > have > > to undo this to grease them any sooner than needed) and ALSO put a light > > coat of grease on the outside of the bushings where to come in contact > with > > metal. > > 3) The front is A LOT easier than the rear, do it first when you still > have > > patience. > > 4) When tightening the nuts on the bushing bracket for the front bar, be > > sure to get carried away as the bolts are part of the subframe and you're > > screwed if you strip them... > > 5) Be careful not to damage the rubber boot on the front links when you > > detach/attach them from the bars (you need to put an open-end wrench > between > > the boot and the sway bar to secure the bolt of the link while you remove > > the nut on the other side of the sway bar. > > 5) Remove the rear bar with the end links on (it will navigate out just > > fine, just think three-dimensionally). > > 6) Detach the rear links by unbolting the mounting bracket from on top of > > the swing arms (don't even try to undo the bolt that connects the link to > > the mounting bracket itself, ask me how I know not to attempt this). > > 7) You _may_ need (depending on patience and type of aftermarket exhaust) > > to drop the rear of the exhaust to gain a little more room to sing the bar > > over it (it's easier to look at than explain). > > > > As for tools needed, you'll be well equipped with a good metric (10-17mm > > should cover it although you don't them all) set of open-end wrenches > > (preferably with box ends as well; but not needed). You'll also need a > > decent set of metric sockets, again 10-17mm will cover it. > > > > All in all, this isn't much more difficult than installing an after-market > > exhaust. > > > > Regards, > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > > Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 18:01:32 PDT > > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > > Subject: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs... > > > > Anyone installed sway bars on your own? How hard is it and what tools do > > you need. I don't have much in the tool box at home but if it's fairly > > simple and doesn't require a lot of equipment, I wouldn't mind saving some > > $$$. Otherwise, I'll just leave it in the hands of the professionals. > > > > Thanks, > > Jonathan L > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > *************************************************************
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. - from Jim Powell
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 17:31:44 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. When I put mine on I went full soft in front and middle in back. It seemed to work well with the stock wheel/tire widths. Jim Carlos Lopez wrote: > > Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 16:38:47 -0700 (PDT) > From: Carlos Lopez <clopez95m3@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. > > Jim Powell wrote: > >You have to insert a 16mm wrench into the front sway bar link when you > > >tighten it up. This holds the 'bolt' section while you tighten the > >nut down. > > Another alternative to grinding down your Crapsman wrenches is to buy > some wrenches from a bike shop, they're quite thin. Plus Bike shops > don't move around as much as the Snap-on truck guy does. <g> > > I would suggest *initially* setting the sway bars to full soft, > wouldn't you guys? Only after trying this out would I set the rear one > to full hard to get more oversteer. > > Carlos. > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. > http://invites.yahoo.com > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#5. Re: Anyone in Ohio - from Sean Burke
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 22:04:37 -0400 From: "Sean Burke" <sburke@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: Anyone in Ohio I live in Columbus. --Sean '98 M3/4 Shark Injector on order :) > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 13:38:18 -0700 > From: Mark Dadgar <MDadgar@handspring.com> > Subject: Anyone in Ohio? > > Anyone on this list near Columbus, Ohio? > > - Mark > '95 M3 > '97 528i 5-spd > '88 M3, Hennarot
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 23:03:35 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neilmaller@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sway bar install Qs.. On 4/21/00 17:38 E36M3 e36m3@bmwmpower.com wrote: >Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 12:55:44 -0700 >From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> > >Quick additional note: > >You have to insert a 16mm wrench into the front sway bar link when you >tighten >it up. This holds the 'bolt' section while you tighten the nut down. There >isn't much room in there and a normal thickness wrench will hold the link >slightly away from the bar so that you can't tighten it down all the way. I >found this out after doing Patrick Sarne's suspension with him. I >subsequently >bought an extra Craftsman wrench and ground it down thin. At the time I >didn't >have a set of Snap-on wrenches which are thin enough in profile not to >interfere. > >Jim Good advice. And if you buy the Craftsman Professional Series wrench instead, it's already thin enough. These are much nicer pieces than the regular Craftsman wrenches. Neil 96 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #78 - from dbruce
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Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 00:13:11 -0400 From: dbruce <dbrucepoip@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #78 Sounds like what NY does with points and tickets. In NY your license is suspended if you reach 11 points. You may take a class every 18 months that will remove 3 or 4 points. The class will not effect the actual ticket, just the points that are on your license. What this means for insurance is nothing. The insurance company still see the ticket and could care less about the points. The points are for suspension purposes. So fight the ticket, if you are prepared for your defense you have a good chance of winning. If you are offered a good plea....I would take that to avoid the hassle. I took the plea.....but I was only 12 over the speed limit. Reduced to 1 over the speed limit. On Fri, 21 Apr 2000 17:38:51 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000 15:02:37 PDT >From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> >Subject: Speeding issues(Help!) > >Hi, all, > >I've got my first speeding ticket from driving my M3 (in California)! I got >a question for those of you who are educated to this issue. Let me explain. > >I previously got a speeding ticket driving my E30 325i, and completed a >traffic school on 2-4-1999. Based on the rule, I am not supposed to be >qualified for another traffic school at this time, because the previous >school was less than 18 months ago. However, the staff from the Traffic >Safety school told me that I was actually qualified to take the class. But >I would "have only the point removed from the DMV, but my violation case >stays in the public record". This gets me confused, since I always thought >that that's the case even that was my first moving violation. > >I've called my insurance agent and asked him how he checked clients' >records. He stated that they only checked two areas - the DMV points, and >the accident records. He told me that he was not familiar with the "public >record", which, tells me they would never know my recent moving violation if >I took this traffic school. > >I must had gotten my previous ticket in November of 1998, and I've gotten my >recent one in February of this year. > >Could any of you clarify this for me? > >Thanks a lot in advance! > >David Tow > >PS: This is the first time in a while that I feel my M3 has more power and >speed than I really need!
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#8. NY Autoshow 2000 - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 00:37:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: NY Autoshow 2000 Hey guys and gals. I managed to get into the preview of the Autoshow. Man, it's amazing how much you can cover in a short amount of time when you're not busy bumping into people. I haven't finished uploading all the pics yet, but the initial stuff (and most importantly, the BMW stuff) is at: http://www.geocities.com/chester_p_wong/car_show/ny_auto_show.html It's rather graphics intensive...sorry. I'm currently using a bidirectional satellite link which is super fast, so I don't feel the effects ;) Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com
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#9. Online Parts Sources - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 06:13:12 PDT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Online Parts Sources Since Stephen Wolfe no longer conducts parts business via the Internet, where do members on the east coast go to purchase their parts? Circle BMW? Others? I'm trying to find a source that provides similar discounts as SouthBMW, and is as knowledgeable as Stephen. Thanks. -rb ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Tools for wheel changes? (FS: Kumho V700) - from Travis Lane
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Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2000 06:22:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Travis Lane <gofastlane@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tools for wheel changes? (FS: Kumho V700) > Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 15:03:43 -0400 > From: <mauricio.wiesner@us.pwcglobal.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tools for wheel changes? > > > Friends: > > I have a 98 4 door M3 and I'm new to the autocross world, and have two > questions. > > First, my street tires are getting trashed so I'm getting dedicated track > tires > and wheels. Once I get the set, and considering costs, what tools should I > get > to make putting them on and off the car easiest ?...do I need a torque > measuring > tool, etc....? I remember when I started autocrossing, it used to take about an hour to prepare the wheel and tires and now I can change a set of wheels and pressure in between runs (10-15 mins). Tools to make life easier: 1) Torque wrench. I use an 18" model which is set by twisting a cylinder on the outside of the bottom of the handle and locked by a knob on the end. No guessing involved, when you reach your preset torque, it clicks and stops tightening. 2) Portable jack. I use a 20 pound model that comes with it's own case and fits easily wherever you have room...leave the Lincoln at home. 3) 1/2" cordless 12V impact wrench. This is such a savior. 4) The "cheater stick" that comes in the tool kit. Especially convenient if you're using spacers. Line the wheel/hub up relatively close, slide in the stick (plastic end first) and it holds the wheel to the hub while you tighten the lugs. 5) 1/2" drive, 6pt., 17mm, deep, impact socket. You'll need the extra reach and sure fit to get to those recessed lugs without scratching the wheels/fender. 6) Leather gloves. Puts some padding between your work and you, also allows for cushioning between the wrench handle and the car paint as you crack the lugs. 7) box of 42 gallon trash bags with handles, even swallows 245/45/17 V700's without problems. > Second, I'm thinking of going with same size 235/40zr17 tires on 17x8.0 inch > wheels all around. But was wondering if I could go with the 245/45zr17's > (yes > that's a 45 in there - the 245 Yoko A032R's come that way) on 17x8.5 inch > wheels. Would this last size create problems with rubbing (front or rear) or > anything else? I can only authoritatively declare that 245/40/17 Hoosier A3S03 tires fit with MContour 17x7.5 wheels, front and back and the fronts will rub, AT LOCK, with 5mm spacers; although, if you're at lock, on the track, it's because you're in Spin Recovery Mode (been there, done that, lost a car). I expect that the 245/45/17's will fit on the 8.5" wheels with appropriate offset, or spacers--5mm should be fine with a bit more rubbing than I had. Rubbing was behind the front struts only, not visible. While I'm at it, I have a set of 4 245/45/17 Kumho V700's, heat cycled from TireRack, never used, 2 months old. for sale for whatever they cost me. Good Luck, -Travis __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com