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#1. Re: [E36M3] Dinan's little secret??? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 06:22:07 PDT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dinan's little secret??? I just checked out the picture in Bimmer, and looked through some parts catalogs for comparison. The manifold looks identical to the Schrick manifold, except it's painted black. That must be Dinan's "value-add". -rb >Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 00:17:49 -0400 >From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dinan's little secret??? > >I haven't seen the article mentioned below, but I do remember seeing a >Dinan S/C Roadster with an M50 intake manifold. Maybe that's what is >installed? > >Nick > >>Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 12:00:58 -0700 >>From: Rob Birkhead <rbirkz@earthlink.net> >>Subject: Dinan's little secret??? >> >>I was reading the Dinan S/C Mroadster article in the 6/00 Bimmer mag and I >>saw something interesting. If you look at the engine photo, the intake >>manifold looks different! I search all the archive photos to verify and I >>can't find a single intake that looks like the one on Dinan's M. >> >>What gives? Their website says nothing about it, anybody know anything?? >> >>Am I just crazy or is it really different? >> >>Rob ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#2. Re: Five Borough Bike Tour in NYC - from DrDan976@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 11:30:42 EDT From: DrDan976@aol.com Subject: Re: Five Borough Bike Tour in NYC Jim, You are probably at the SD Auto-x right now outrunning the cops as usual. Thanks so much for all your help with the brake calipers. FYI: For those interested in a caliper rebuild tech write up, there is one on Suzy's site. http://www.bmwmpower.com/TechProc/caliper.htm There are no pictures however, but as soon as I get my Nikon 950 today, I will take some pictures. Dan >>Jim <== Having way too much free time today. But that's cool cause I'm going to go home, drink too much beer and assemble DrDan976's brake calipers. I'm sure he'll live :)
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#3. JTD Strut Brace Review - from Lew Becker
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Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 09:15:18 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: JTD Strut Brace Review I found installation to be a pretty quick and easy job (with Jim Mihal's ready telephone assistance, as required -- eg. the pre-load recommendation was sensibly obvious after Jim told me about it, but not intuitively obvious to me). With the exception of the torque spec, all of the following will make sense when you have the bar in front of you. So, some points that may facilitate installation: Torque the nuts on the strut caps to 18 ft lbs -- don't want to strip one of those puppies. (I'm awaiting my Bentley manual, and didn't have this spec until Jim provided it). There is no need to adjust the length of the bar by grasping its threaded portion. You can "shorten" the bar to fit into the strut caps (after they're on the car) by grasping the machined couplings at the ends and turning them; once into the strut caps, you can extend the bar by turning the large nuts on the threaded portion to move them to the ends of the bar, and continuing to turn them -- the bar will extend. Once you have the bar set at the proper length (i.e. pre-loaded, see below), tighten down the allen key bolts that hold/lock the bar into the strut caps, and then turn the large nuts to move them up against the bar itself (rather than the couplers at the ends -- once the allen head bolts are tightened the threaded portion will not turn, because it is secured by them. To set the bar at the proper length, it should be pre-loaded. Once everything is assembled on the car (best not to tighten down anything until the bar is fully assembled on the car), torque the nuts on the strut caps. Next snug down the allen head bolts, and then back them off a very little bit. Then continue to extend the length of the bar (as above -- with approximately the same amount of thread exposed on each end) until the bar is pushing against the strut caps; all free play should be eliminated (otherwise you lose some, if not all, of the bar's stiffening function) -- this is the pre-load. Once the bar is pre-loaded, tighten down the allen head bolts, and then lock the bar at that length by tightening the large nuts against the bar itself (i.e., move them in, to the center of the bar rather than at the ends) -- when locking the bar's length, make the bar is rotated such that clearance above the engine is maximized (i.e., the "bend" is at the highest point). Oh yeah, and remove the blue tape on the left side of the bar (and corresponding blue dot on the left strut cap). Lew Becker > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 21:56:13 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: JTD Strut Brace Review > > Hey guys. Guess what I got from the UPS guy today. The new JTD strut brace. > Formerly, I had the UUC Barbarian on there and was a little curious to see how > the JTD would compare. > > UUC Barbarian likes: > - Conical Nuts > - Ease of Adjustability/Installation > - MOK design ;) > - A work of art > > UUC Barbarian dislikes: > - MOK design means that the end cap/strut bar junction is pretty beefy. I was > first to gripe about the half rings being on the largish side. > - Bottom pad of the end caps clear the little ridges of the strut tower > marginally. Ya tighten down on those conical nuts and say hello to a nice > gouge from the base digging into the strut tower. A larger radius might do the > trick. > - That's about it. > > JTD Strut Brace likes: > - Bottom pad seems to interface with the strut tower a little better. > - Integral cover that transfers load also serves as a dust cap. > - This baby sits low....look at the pics > > JTD dislikes: > - I thought that JTD's strut brace came with conical nuts as well. Apparently > the BMW Motorsport ones are not conical either. Instead, I got nuts that look > like: > > __ > | | > | | > - - > | | > - - > | | > ---- > > Sorry for the bad art and I didn't take a pic of the nut before installing. I > will probably disassemble and take more pics ;) > > - Bitch to install/adjust to fit perfectly. I used my fingers to try to turn > the threaded rod inwards or outwards and had all these images of metal > splinters jamming into my finger. > > - Threads on strut ends are not reverse threaded like the Barbarian. The > simplicity of the Barbarian design is such that in order to line up the holes > correctly, you just spin the center rod inwards or outwards. The JTD strut > brace is bent so maybe that's why they didn't reverse the threads on one side > since you can't simply spin the center rod without bumping the engine. > > - That bar looks like it gets awfully close to the engine cover. Yeah, it's > plastic, but the engine rotates on hard acceleration, no? Maybe if the rod > cleared the engine by just a little more. > > > Overall conclusions: > > I love both setups. Installation woes aside, I think the JTD brace is very > well made. I think conical nuts are better since for an equal torque value, I > would venture to say that the conical nuts hold the end caps in place more > efficiently. > > Last, but not least, check out the pics: > > http://www.geocities.com/chester_p_wong/strut/comparison.html > > I did some PhotoShopping ;) and tried to overlay one on top of the other. > Unforunately, I wasn't able to capture the exact same position as the friggin > camera hibernates from lack of use and when it wakes up, the zoom setting is > reset!!!! DOH! But anyway, you can clearly see that in the third picture, > there is a big hulk of Barbarian where there is nothing on the JTD counterpart. > > Which one will I keep? DOH! I'm torn.... =( > > Chester > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. > http://im.yahoo.com/ > >
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#4. Inspection and aluminum pedals - from HYPERM3@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 13:06:58 EDT From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: Inspection and aluminum pedals Hey all, I just want to laugh at NJ DMV. I just went through inspection (97 supercharged M3) and failed. For what you may ask? No, not emissions. That I passed with flying colors (86 out of 625). It was for the aluminum pedals. They said I had to have rubber pedals only. There is rubber sticking out of the metal. Can someone clarify this for me or is Christie Whitman a doofus (that was rhetorical). Alex "HyperM3" Demsky
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Inspection and aluminum pedals - from Rob Birkhead
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Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 10:17:51 -0700 From: Rob Birkhead <rbirkz@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Inspection and aluminum pedals If that is the case then no RX-7 from 93-up will pass. They all had alum. pedals as stock. Rob B. -----Original Message----- From: HYPERM3@aol.com [mailto:HYPERM3@aol.com] Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 10:12 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Inspection and aluminum pedals Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 13:06:58 EDT From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: Inspection and aluminum pedals Hey all, I just want to laugh at NJ DMV. I just went through inspection (97 supercharged M3) and failed. For what you may ask? No, not emissions. That I passed with flying colors (86 out of 625). It was for the aluminum pedals. They said I had to have rubber pedals only. There is rubber sticking out of the metal. Can someone clarify this for me or is Christie Whitman a doofus (that was rhetorical). Alex "HyperM3" Demsky ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#6. Re: lighted shift knob - from FLBEARCUB@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 22:09:08 EDT From: FLBEARCUB@aol.com Subject: Re: lighted shift knob In a message dated 5/5/00 11:04:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time, e36m3@bmwmpower.com writes: > My previous searches for a lighted wood shift knob have turned up nothing. > Today I saw one on ebay, and am wondering if anyone here knows the part > number for such an item? > > The gentleman who is selling it says it came from the factory in Euro M3 > (non-individual). The link below will show the knob. Rob, Try PN# 25-11-2-228-714. Stephen '94 530iT => Mine at last '99 R1200C
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#7. Re: Inspection and aluminum pedals - from John Genereux
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Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 19:33:48 -0700 (PDT) From: John Genereux <white98m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Inspection and aluminum pedals Alex, Seeing as though the factory gas pedal is plastic and the aluminum pedals are a factory option on the E46 then I think your inspection station has their heads up there you know what. John 98 ///M3 --- hyperm3@aol.com wrote: > Hey all, > I just want to laugh at NJ DMV. I just went > through inspection (97 > supercharged M3) and failed. For what you may ask? > No, not emissions. That I > passed with flying colors (86 out of 625). It was > for the aluminum pedals. > They said I had to have rubber pedals only. There is > rubber sticking out of > the metal. Can someone clarify this for me or is > Christie Whitman a doofus > (that was rhetorical). > > Alex "HyperM3" Demsky > ___________________________________________________________ > T O P I C A The Email You Want. > http://www.topica.com/t/16 > Newsletters, Tips and Discussions on Your Favorite > Topics > ===== ///M3's and Jet Skis/// __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
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#8. Auto-x in San Diego today - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 21:35:39 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Auto-x in San Diego today Thank you to everyone that came out today. Lots of new faces and volunteers pitching in. Nice cars and great people. I'll post results for today's and February's auto-x on the chapter webpage as soon as I can get my hands on today's results. Jim Powell Webmeister San Diego Chapter BMW CCA
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#9. FS: 95 M3 - from John Hearn
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Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 10:48:54 -0500 From: "John Hearn" <john.e.hearn@vanderbilt.edu> Subject: FS: 95 M3 I have a 95 M3 with a production date of 10/95. Excellent condition, never driven in the winter, garaged all day and all night. Zymoled every 3 months, and Lexoled regularly. Meticulous engine maintenance with only Red Line lubricants. Cosmos Black with black interior and manual seats. ******* Engine Head was rebuild by Korman. Titanium retainers, 3 angle race cut, port and polished Ceramic coated exhaust manifold Euro dual pickup competition oil pan. Lower temp thermostat new water pump and aluminum housing Runs close to 280+ HP (depending on intake) ********** RED Powder Coated Calipers Euro Floating Rotors X-brace installed Rear GT wing installed without spacers Heated seats OBC -------------------- Never been tracked, only driven as a daily driver to the city and back 76,000 miles $22,500 OBO
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#10. E46 M3 news? - from NASIEG@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 12:14:18 EDT From: NASIEG@aol.com Subject: E46 M3 news? I haven't heard any new info about the new M3 lately. Is it not O.K. to talk about this on this list anymore (not that it ever was), or did somebody establish an E46 M3 digest where you can talk about it? I still look forward to driving my E36 M3 every day, even after owning it for over 3 years, but I can't get to exited anymore about doing any mods to it, or reading about them. I should be one of the lucky ones that gets an E46 M3 in November and my interest is more towards the new car. So, if anybody knows any digests or websites for the E46 M3 I would love to hear about them. Thanks Norm Siegenthaler '97 M3