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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Michael's First Win - from Sean Hester
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 14:56:54 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Michael's First Win >Congrats should go out to Mr. Michael Lord, who won the D Production class >this past Sunday at Seattle International Raceway in his E36 325. He drove >a good steady race and was in position to take the win when the opportunity >presented itself. Good job Michael! I will avenge this loss... anyone who wants to know "who" and "what" the "opportunity presented itself" was... send me a private e-mail (so brian doens't know that i told) and i'll tell all. ;-) P.S. we'll all be racing in spokane this holiday weekend, if anyone finds themself in the eastern washington area with nothing to do. come out and watch us. ;-) ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 broken rear control arm - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 14:56:25 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 broken rear control arm Re: >I have heard that heavily modified suspensions and high tuning forces can >cause a failure of the rear control arm at the frame mounting point. Is >anyone aware of this type of failure and how difficult is the >repair/prevention. How much of the car has to come apart (seats/interior) >to install the fix? I think we may be confusing two seperate issues -- a _broken_ control arm is not the same as a failure of the frame mounting point. This digest has mentioned the latter type of failure several times. The former is very rare. The prevention for the latter is pretty easy -- the repair is $$$. The prevention involves reinforcing three threaded inserts that are only spot-welded into a sort of "cup" that's then attached to the body. If you know someone who's a skilled TIG (heliarc) welder, you can have them weld the inserts (three to a side) over their entire circumfrence where they're mounted to the car. This requires detaching the rear shocks, unbolting the control arm's front mounting, maybe removing the bracket, and getting it all sufficiently out of the way to make room for the welder and his torch to work out of position (i.e. upside-down). I brought my car to my cage builder, put it up on stands, removed the rear wheels, did the disassembly mentioned above, and then let him at it. Cost: $75. I then cleaned it up with some ScotchBrite and painted the now-bare metal with some grey primer. After reassembly I had to re-align the rear end -- that's mandatory. So, to answer your question, the prevention is done from outside the car and is reasonably priced, the cure requires major surgery inside and out and is likely to cost $1500 or more. The failure appears to be indirectly due to wear on the bushing in the control arm mounting bracket -- once it's worn, the arms slams back and forth "in" the bracket, and this leads to a failure of the body inserts that the bracket is mounted to. It affects some cars and not others. As an example, my car is bone stock, but participates in dirt-road hillclimbs, which is a whole lot less smooth than a racetrack -- lots and lots of rocks. I never encountered any problems, but did the prevention as a matter of course, as my cage makes access to the rear seat area nearly impossible. There are also reports of the rear subframe bolts breaking out of the body -- that's even more expensive to fix, and the only prevention I know of is to ensure that they're properly torqued at all times. I hope this helps, ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@netcom.com
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Re:Harness on a 99 M3 - from Sean Hester
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 14:58:46 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re:Harness on a 99 M3 >Not trying to pick a fight, but I thought the seats weren't that heavy at >all...I do have manuals seats so maybe thats why. I had not problem >lifting >it up and I'm not much of a muscle builder :) it's all perspective. i can lift the M3 seats and carry them a few feet without hurting my back. but... i can carry a sparco racing seat with one finger. they are easily only 10% the weight of a stock M3 seat. ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] getting the slop out - from Suzy Kraft
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 16:57:00 -0500 From: Suzy Kraft <suekraft@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] getting the slop out Ben Liaw wrote: > > then again, how many ACS users are there anyway? Not very many since UUC Motorwerks came along :-) Suzy
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#5. RE: [E36M3] toyo tires -- heat cycling? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 15:08:32 -0700 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] toyo tires -- heat cycling? > TWENTY SIX TRACK DAYS PLUS AUTOCROSS?!?!?!?! > > oh my god! i want your tires!!! mine last 4 days, 6 days max. <BG> Tires I'm easy on; brake rotors, not so much :-) Admittedly, 4-5 of those days were in the wet at Sears in Feb, but add in that I do (usually) drive on them to/from events. (And maybe it was only 24 track days - can't recall if a couple were 1- or 2-day events :-)) Toyo RA-1s - not the stickiest, but last a good long time :-) Cheers, Jim Bassett - future Toyo spokesperson? :-) 1998 M3/4
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#6. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 broken rear control arm - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 15:24:45 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 broken rear control arm A small correction: I wrote: >The failure appears to be indirectly due to wear on the bushing in the >control arm mounting bracket -- once it's worn ... The bushing is in the control arm, of course. The bracket is mounted to the control arm with a bolt that's torqued down when the control arm and bracket are at a certain position relative to each other -- all the movement is then taken up by the rubber bushing. ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@netcom.com
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#7. '95 M3 for sale - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 18:31:53 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: '95 M3 for sale I am posting this for someone else not on the list so please respond directly to him at Brent91NSX@AOL.COM. I have no financial interest in this at all. ---------------- Here are the details. I'm sure I've left something out but I'll do my best to remember everything. 95 BMW M3 59,600 miles White/light grey leather interior "LTW" wheels from Turner Motorsport, same weigh as OEM, (these are replica alloys of factory BMW wheel but look exactly the same and no more weight than original) Clear turn signals all around (~$400) Lighted BMW //M shift knob as what was OEM on 98 BMW's (~130) Jim Conforti Performance Chip (the best made) ($250) B&B Triflo Exhaust ($850) Dinan High Flow Airbox ($500) K&N Air Filter (~$50) //M3 License Plate ($35) Red Brake Calipers Window Tint Dunlop SP9000's good condition all around Factory Options: Sunroof 6 Disc BMW CD changer Heated Seats Tilt Steering Wheel (rare on BMW's) That is all I can think of. I have changed the oil less than 3k intervals since I have owned it. I would like $26,500 for the car. I am located in Dallas, Texas. The title is clear and I am the second owner. I can provide you with a VIN # if interested. Pictures and a .wav file of the exhaust which I honestly think does it no justice can be found at: http://members.aol.com/brent91nsx/auto/MyM3 If you have any more questions, just email me or call (817) 235-8094. Thanks, Brent Parks
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#8. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #174 - from Jlwutk@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 19:18:18 EDT From: Jlwutk@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #174 how can I remove myself from the list?
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#9. Re[2]: [E36M3] Re:Harness on a 99 M3 - from Ron Katona
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 19:19:46 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] Re:Harness on a 99 M3 Andrej Dolenc wrote: [...] > seats is a good way of going about it. At 70 lbs per, you'd be looking at > about 100lbs easily saved by going to some lighter racing seats. Ditch the > sunroof motor - 65 lbs at the _highest_ point of the car, swap in a lighter > exhaust, some lighter wheels, and *poof* you've lost a fair amount of weight > from a bone stock M3. Possibly close to 3000 lbs as opposed to 3200 lbs for a > stock M3 (pulling these figures out of thin air, somebody can correct me with > real numbers) This is one of the really fun things about turning your daily driver into a ESP Solo-II car. I'm not sure about the sunroof thing, but I can vouch for the rest. A sub 3000 lb E36 M3 is a riot BTW, and all of these mods can be reversed without damage to the car. I performed most of these this spring and weighed parts as they were replaced on a cheap bathroom scale. My measurements might not be exact, but I think I've got a pretty good estimate to work with. First, I weighed my car on the big bathroom scale at Summit Point during a MARRS race: 3293 with me in it, 1/2 tank of gas, and everything including the spare and jack removed. I go 190-195 with my clothes on (as I did on the scales that day), so the car weighs about 3100 lb. The spare, jack, and trunk carpet go about 55 lb and 1/2 tank of gas (8 gal x 7 lb) about 56 lb. That means the full curb weight would be ~3211. That's a '95 with no sunroof! Seems a few pounds porky, but we'll start with that figure. The stock "Vader" manual leather seats were 65 lb each. My Sparco fiberglass shells with covers, mounting hardware, and 5-pt harnesses are 25 lb. The hardware and harnesses are half that figure! That's an 80 lb savings: 3131 lb. The stock '95 M3 wheels with AVS Intermediates were 44 lb each. 17x8 SSR Integrals with Hoosier 245/40s are 35 lb. that's 9 lb unsprung at each corner, and 36 lb total: 3095 lb. I didn't weigh the stock airbox and Conforti CAI, but as I understand it there's about a 5 lb weight savings there: 3090 lb. The stock exhaust was 50 lb! The UUC system U exhaust was 25. Another 25 lb savings: 3065 lb. Remove the spare, jack, and trunk carpet for a 55 lb savings: 3011 lb. Run the gas tank down to 1/4-1/2 tank for a savings of between 56-85 lb: 2955-2926 lb!! I plan on following Ben Liaw's recommendation for the Interstate replacement battery which is 11 lb lighter than stock. There's also an easy 10-12 lb savings in a lightened flywheel, but now we're starting to stray from easily replaceable mods. Could be down near 2900. And that doesn't even touch the A/C which would be legal in ESP, but damn stupid. You could also get lighter with more exotic wheels and seats. Some seats weigh as little as 6-7 lb in carbon fiber. A 2850 lb, 270 hp E36 M3 is a possibility for the rich, famous, and slightly daffy without touching sound deadening material or adding fiberglass body panels. A 2950 lb car is easily achieved and more realistic if you can live with the racing seats. I got mine used and will replace them for long trips with the stock units - doesn't take long at all. The power to weight ratio at this weight with the Conforti CAI, Euro HFM, and chip, is better than an original stock 286 hp Euro M3. The car feels like it off the line too! -- Ron Katona
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#10. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #174 - from Jim Powell
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Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 16:41:40 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #174 Oh God, this is just too sweet. Jim Jlwutk@aol.com wrote: > Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 19:18:18 EDT > From: Jlwutk@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #174 > > how can I remove myself from the list? > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************