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#1. Re: [E36M3] fog light removal - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2000 22:50:20 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] fog light removal Through the brake duct with a screwdriver? I can reach mine simply from reaching in from the top and using my finger! I have to say that the 'trick' is to have done it once or twice the hard way. (taking the bottom cover off to get to it. Later, when you are confident, you can do it with your finger! You won't need a screwdriver...and no need to pry with any tools. That's risky anyway...way more leverage than you need to overcome a plastic clip/leaf spring. So... 1. First time, take the panel off, study the clip, figure out which way it must be pushed, and then do it from the BOTTOM. Then, snap it back (reassemble it..it is a STURDY SNAP (and kind of scary sounding the first time). And after reassembly, now try undoing it from the TOP. Meaning snake your hand/arm from the top/side of the radiator. It's not that long of a reach. 2. When you have practiced and can do it ~without~ a flashlight from the top, you'll be prepared next time to do it the 'easy way'. No tools. 3. I'd only use the screwdriver under two conditions (both must hold true): a. you've done it at least once by taking it off from the bottom. and b. you are so convinced that the spring, clip is wedged and can only be pried with the screwdriver. If you screw it up with the screwdriver NOW, you risk breaking a $45 bracket, a $40 glass fog, or both. One other tip...sometimes it helps to take a little pressure off the leaf spring by gently pushing on the front of the glass fog on the corner the clip/spring is. This will compress the spring a little so the clip easier to press. Doing this makes it a two handed operation: - one hand presses on the front glass corner of the fog, clip/spring side - the other hand snakes down in the engine bay to get the clip. Take it apart for now until you understand it...just one opinion... - Skip Paul Elliott wrote: > > Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 18:29:08 -0400 > From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> > Subject: fog light removal > > I truely apologize for this pedestrian question, but, Ive read where the fog > light can be popped out by sticking a screwdriver into one of the holes on > the fog light side of the brake duct...there are 2 holes on the fog light > side of the brake duct; a round one near the top, and an oblong one near the > bottom. Well, in went the blade in each hole, which I tried, but in stayed > the foglight too, no matter how I 'jimmied' it. What am I doing wrong? I > would hope it can be removed this way, instead of removing the wheel well > liner or splash panel to gain access. What's the trick? > > thanks > _____________________________ > Paul Elliott > '99 Alpine White M3; <15000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage > II Supercharger > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] fog light removal - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 22:50:34 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] fog light removal Hey, that's great, Suzy...Jim C told me exactly the same...He even told me where to position my bone-head so I could see the screw, sunk into that little hole. Now, if I cant do it, I'm Really a lame brain! thanks for the help. Once I get it off, and do some runs with my new Gtech, I'll be letting you know about that screen cover! BTW, I've done some runs with my new gtech toy, trying to see if I thought the SC system was healthy. I dont want to bore people with the results, but if anyone's interested, or wants me to post some results, just let me know.. _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3; <15000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger -----Original Message----- From: Susan Kraft <suekraft@mindspring.com> To: Paul Elliott <pelliott@rcn.com> Cc: E36M3 <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Date: Sunday, June 04, 2000 10:31 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] fog light removal >My mechanic says there's a small lever type button on the side of the >fog light that you need to press and the light will pop right out. He >says it is difficult to see so you just need to feel around for it. > >Suzy > >Paul Elliott wrote: >> >> Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 18:29:08 -0400 >> From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> >> Subject: fog light removal >> >> I truely apologize for this pedestrian question, but, Ive read where the fog >> light can be popped out by sticking a screwdriver into one of the holes on >> the fog light side of the brake duct...there are 2 holes on the fog light >> side of the brake duct; a round one near the top, and an oblong one near the >> bottom. Well, in went the blade in each hole, which I tried, but in stayed >> the foglight too, no matter how I 'jimmied' it. What am I doing wrong? I >> would hope it can be removed this way, instead of removing the wheel well >> liner or splash panel to gain access. What's the trick? >> >> thanks >> _____________________________ >> Paul Elliott >> '99 Alpine White M3; <15000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage >> II Supercharger >> >> ************************************************************* >> List Commands >> UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >> *************************************************************
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#3. tire pressure BFG G-Force - from vincent.a.leo@us.arthurandersen.com
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Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 22:46:52 -0500 From: vincent.a.leo@us.arthurandersen.com Subject: tire pressure BFG G-Force I am off to out Chapter's first school of the season this weekend (short season in the North East) and I will be running a set of BFG G-Force R1 in 235/40/17 (all 4 corners) on my 99 M3. Anyone have any thoughts on what tire pressure has felt the best? My suspension is stock except for the cross brace and the Strut Barbarian. I was thinking of starting at 40 psi (cold), both front and rear based on what I found in various archives. Any recent thoughts? Vince *******************Internet Email Confidentiality Footer******************* Privileged/Confidential Information may be contained in this message. If you are not the addressee indicated in this message (or responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy or deliver this message to anyone. In such case, you should destroy this message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise immediately if you or your employer do not consent to Internet email for messages of this kind. Opinions, conclusions and other information in this message that do not relate to the official business of my firm shall be understood as neither given nor endorsed by it.
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#4. Fog light Removal - from Alpine7572@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 23:00:07 EDT From: Alpine7572@aol.com Subject: Fog light Removal Pop open the hood and place the screw driver in the top hole of the vent, where there's 2 -( More Square shape). Now while the screwdriver is in the top hole, look down through the openings from the hood on down and you will see a "C" type hook that the screw driver is going towards. Once in the "C" hook-push on it and the fog light will pop out-If you fish around without looking for it you may crack the "C" hook off and break it. Good luck Mike
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#5. Re: [E36M3] fog light removal - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 23:01:04 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] fog light removal Skip, I appreciate the advice, but going in from the top is out of the question ...... See, I have this big, metal thing in the way, that says Vortech on the side! >finger! You won't need a screwdriver...and no need to pry with any tools. That's risky >anyway...way more leverage than you need to overcome a plastic clip/leaf spring. I dont know...Both Jim and Suzy, plus others, all say go in from the front and trip the latch with small screw driver. >1. First time, take the panel off, study the clip, figure out which way it must be pushed, and >then do it from the BOTTOM. Then, snap it back (reassemble it..it is a STURDY SNAP Which panel are we talking about...I mean, there's this corner panel, which I think has 4 screws, plus 2 pressure type fittings....The screws I can undo, but dont you have to pop the pressure things out from the top side? Hey, is it possible that, once you remove the wheel well liner, you'll have access to these pop pressure fittings? How bout access to the fog light bracket from just through this wheel well liner? Thanks for all the good suggestions. _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3; <15000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger -----Original Message----- From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> To: Paul Elliott <pelliott@rcn.com> Cc: E36M3 <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Date: Sunday, June 04, 2000 10:42 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] fog light removal >Through the brake duct with a screwdriver? I can reach mine simply from reaching in from >the top and using my finger! > >I have to say that the 'trick' is to have done it once or twice the hard way. (taking >the bottom cover off to get to it. Later, when you are confident, you can do it with your >finger! You won't need a screwdriver...and no need to pry with any tools. That's risky >anyway...way more leverage than you need to overcome a plastic clip/leaf spring. > >So... > >1. First time, take the panel off, study the clip, figure out which way it must be pushed, and >then do it from the BOTTOM. Then, snap it back (reassemble it..it is a STURDY SNAP (and kind of >scary sounding the first time). And after reassembly, now try undoing it from the TOP. Meaning >snake your hand/arm from the top/side of the radiator. It's not that long of a reach. > >2. When you have practiced and can do it ~without~ a flashlight from the top, you'll be >prepared next time to do it the 'easy way'. No tools. > >3. I'd only use the screwdriver under two conditions (both must hold true): > a. you've done it at least once by taking it off from the bottom. >and > b. you are so convinced that the spring, clip is wedged and can only be pried with > the screwdriver. > >If you screw it up with the screwdriver NOW, you risk breaking a $45 bracket, >a $40 glass fog, or both. > >One other tip...sometimes it helps to take a little pressure off the leaf spring by gently >pushing on the front of the glass fog on the corner the clip/spring is. This will compress >the spring a little so the clip easier to press. > >Doing this makes it a two handed operation: > - one hand presses on the front glass corner of the fog, clip/spring side > - the other hand snakes down in the engine bay to get the clip. > >Take it apart for now until you understand it...just one opinion... > >- Skip > >Paul Elliott wrote: >> >> Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2000 18:29:08 -0400 >> From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> >> Subject: fog light removal >> >> I truely apologize for this pedestrian question, but, Ive read where the fog >> light can be popped out by sticking a screwdriver into one of the holes on >> the fog light side of the brake duct...there are 2 holes on the fog light >> side of the brake duct; a round one near the top, and an oblong one near the >> bottom. Well, in went the blade in each hole, which I tried, but in stayed >> the foglight too, no matter how I 'jimmied' it. What am I doing wrong? I >> would hope it can be removed this way, instead of removing the wheel well >> liner or splash panel to gain access. What's the trick? >> >> thanks >> _____________________________ >> Paul Elliott >> '99 Alpine White M3; <15000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage >> II Supercharger >> >> ************************************************************* >> List Commands >> UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >> *************************************************************
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#6. RE: [E36M3] BMW Oil ... And oil filters - from Zorine, Dmitri Y, CFSMD
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Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 08:32:08 -0400 From: "Zorine, Dmitri Y, CFSMD" <dmitri@att.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] BMW Oil ... And oil filters My last batch of oil filters, that I bought from SteveD, ran out couple of months ago. I forgot the hard to pronounce brand name. Anyway, I was getting rotors and other tidbits from Nick Alexander BMW and ordered a box of oil filters as well. Well, when I was doing oil change yesterday, I noticed that oil filters from SteveD where made in Austria, while new ones from Nick Alexander where made in Slovenia. So is it just a different shipment, or did BMW switch their supplier? Both filters have correct PN's stamped on them and have little roundels printed as well. Dmitri PS And I used Mobil 1 15W50. When I got this car, in the beginning of '99 two, 6 bottle boxes of Mobil 1 15W50 where somewhere around $40, yesterday I paid $55 for them... ; (
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#7. Test - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 06:10:47 PDT From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Test Testing digest mode. Thanks Jonathan Evans Raleigh, NC 95 M3 ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#8. My car is speaking German - from John Van Houten
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Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 08:15:06 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: My car is speaking German Just a quick question. I have a 95 M3 with Check Control only, no OBC. It is currently speaking German and I would like to get it back to English. I'm sure this is on a FAQ somewhere, but I couldn't find it for non-OBC cars. Anyone have this handy? Thanks, John www.netcom.com/~jvanhouten/bmw/bmw.html
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#9. RE: [E36M3] My car is speaking German - from Chen, Philip
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Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 08:44:29 -0700 From: "Chen, Philip" <Philip_Chen@transcom.sony.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] My car is speaking German I know you don't have OBC but check out http://www.unofficialbmw.com//e36/electrical/e36_obc_magic_tricks.html for OBC functions, the language should work just as well I hope? Anyway, the gist of it is, to hold down the 1000+10 keys together to get a menu prompt (something like input nr#) and then press 10 again to set the country+language. Rotate thru the langues via the 1 key. It should be quite self explanatory from there on. This works on OBC cars not totally sure if it works on a non-obc car so YMMV. Btw, if anyone's reading this, what does J stands for? I thought it should have been Japanese but it shows English afterwards? Everything else (F(rancais), E(spanol), D(eutsch), C(Canada), B(ritain)...) all are rather self-explanatory. Just another random useless question that requires an equal random useless answer. :-) Phil -----Original Message----- From: John Van Houten [mailto:jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com] Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 6:15 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] My car is speaking German Just a quick question. I have a 95 M3 with Check Control only, no OBC. It is currently speaking German and I would like to get it back to English. I'm sure this is on a FAQ somewhere, but I couldn't find it for non-OBC cars. Anyone have this handy? Thanks, John www.netcom.com/~jvanhouten/bmw/bmw.html
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#10. I have some alignment questions - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 09:01:59 PDT From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: I have some alignment questions I've just purchased a 95 M3 with 49k miles. It has the LTW wheels (5 double spoke) 7.5 inches wide in the front and 8.5 inches wide in the back. I think this was an option. 235/40 in the front and 245/40 in the rear. I think the fronts should be 225/40. I needed new rear tires, so I had them mounted and balanced at NTB (I know, don't start) and had a 4 wheel alignment done at the local BMW dealership. Got it back and the steering wheel was off-center (pet peeve of mine) and the car was "twitchy" on the highway. Can't help but swerve when driving faster than 60mph. Took it back and they said that they had to HEAT the tie rods to align it last time, so I need new tie rods to get it right again. Swallowed that and ponied up the money. Now the steering wheel is straight, but the car is still twitchy. Not as twitchy as before, but was downright scary when I took it up passed 100mph. I plan on doing some driving events and would like to know that the car won't fly off road. I had a friend with a 98 drive mine and he agrees something is not quite right. I've heard that BMW increased the caster after 95 give more of that solid feel on the highway, but harder to turn in parking lots. That's what I want, darnit. Any advice? Oh found this about the rear toe bushings. Can the rear wheels mess up the steering? Sound reasonable? http://www.m3power.com/home/frames.htm Jonathan Evans 95 M3 with LTW wheels Raleigh, NC ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com