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#1. RE: [E36M3] The first Shark Injectors (tm) have shipped - from Land Shark
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Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 07:44:06 -0600 From: Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] The first Shark Injectors (tm) have shipped At 08:35 AM 6/6/00 -0500, Andy Korczynski wrote: >Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 08:26:17 -0500 >From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] The first Shark Injectors (tm) have shipped > >If quality has been tested so well why are you waiting on the results of the >first 20 shipped? Oh, I'll answer this one. Because this is a consumer device.. and you also have to gauge the quality of the instructions re: the "average joe" who'll be using it. The instructions are "clear as a bell" to everyone who's seen them, but might be "clear as mud" to some people. Then again, they might be perfectly clear, but people simply won't follow them. Jim
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#2. Rear lower control arm replacement - from Matt Henson
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Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 06:57:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Rear lower control arm replacement Hey Gang, As a result of an autocross mishap I've recently been given the opportunity (?) to replace the left rear lower control arm in my '95 M3. I read the procedure in the Bentley manual and searched the archives at bimmer.org. Unfortunatly the procedures at both sources were wrong so I thought I'd write my own. Feel free to use and distribute it as you wish.. The Bentley procedure was to remove the two bolts and pull the arm off. Well that's great except you can't remove the inner bolt because the diff is in the way. The other procedure I read (from a dealer, I believe) involved dropping the entire rear suspension carrier. I found a solution that falls somewhere in between. 0. Remove wheel raise car on jackstands/lift. 1. Remove the lower control arm outer bolt (that goes to the trailing arm, I believe). This also has a special washer and an eccentric nut. I think that the nut is supposed to be replaced but my parts guy said to just use loctite.. 2. Loosen the inner bolt. Make sure to catch the special nut when it falls. 3. Loosen the rear sway bar by removing the bolts/nuts at the two inner brackets. This will allow you to push the rear sway bar up. 4. Place a jack under the diff. 5. Remove the three diff mounting bolts. There are two in the rear previously obstructed by the rear sway bar and one on the right front side. 6. Jack the diff up and push it sideways out of the way so that you can remove the control arm bolt. (Push it to the right for the left control arm and visa versa). 7. Install new lower control arm and re-insert the inner bolt and the funky shaped nut. Don't tighten the bolt all the way yet. 8. Re-connect the diff and rear sway bar. Torque to spec. 9. Position the outer end of the control arm on the trailing arm. You might need to use a helper or a well poitioned foot to push the bottom of brake/hub out to install the control arm. 10. Tighten control arm to spec (sorry, don't have these with me). Optional - 11. Take bent control arm inside to show your wife. Looks like a hockey stick. Total repair time was about 2.5 hrs for me (and no lift). Shouldn't take more than 1.5-2 now that you have directions. Cost of the lower control arm was around $80. Dealer even had it in stock! Regards, Matt '95 M3 Turbo __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints! http://photos.yahoo.com
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#3. RE: [E36M3] The first Shark Injectors (tm) have shipped - from Andy Korczynski
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Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 09:01:26 -0500 From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] The first Shark Injectors (tm) have shipped Instructions? Who needs stinking instructions? Don't you just plug it in and instantly get 300 extra horsepower? Andy K. Incidentally, does anyone know way Maywood won't allow us to autocross (Windy City Chapter) on their lot this Saturday? -----Original Message----- From: Land Shark To: E36M3 Sent: 6/6/00 8:45 AM Subject: RE: [E36M3] The first Shark Injectors (tm) have shipped Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 07:44:06 -0600 From: Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] The first Shark Injectors (tm) have shipped At 08:35 AM 6/6/00 -0500, Andy Korczynski wrote: >Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 08:26:17 -0500 >From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] The first Shark Injectors (tm) have shipped > >If quality has been tested so well why are you waiting on the results of the >first 20 shipped? Oh, I'll answer this one. Because this is a consumer device.. and you also have to gauge the quality of the instructions re: the "average joe" who'll be using it. The instructions are "clear as a bell" to everyone who's seen them, but might be "clear as mud" to some people. Then again, they might be perfectly clear, but people simply won't follow them. Jim ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#4. Re: Roundel Misprint??? - from Paul England
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Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 10:45:15 -0400 From: "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Roundel Misprint??? All I see is the caption to some photos. I don't see what you mean, and certainly nothing that could be illegal in VA. In this case 'Beemer' is indeed referring to a motorcycle, so that's not it. What is it you see? -Paul > Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 07:12:00 -0500 > From: "Crumpley Jr, Robert E" <CRUMPLRE@bp.com> > Subject: Roundel Misprint??? > > Is that a misprint on page 69 of the new Roundel, or is it some new > technique that I haven't heard about? And, if it's the latter, is it legal > in Virginia? Inquiring minds want to know... > > Bobby Crumpley > '95 ///M3 > BMWCCA
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Speaking of foglights... - from Zorine, Dmitri Y, CFSMD
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Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 11:00:02 -0400 From: "Zorine, Dmitri Y, CFSMD" <dmitri@att.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Speaking of foglights... BMP sells inserts with a connection to 2.5" or 3" tubing. But @ ~$130 a pair it's kind of pricey for two pieces of plastic... > Are these part numbers strictly covers to block the openings, > or, do they > hide the bracket and mounting holes, with a way to leave the > mouth open? > See, I want to do without my foglamps too, as I want to use > the openings for > air-routing purposes. I would just leave the holes open, but > for me, they > look too 'unfinished' with the bracketing and mounting holes > showing. So, I > was hoping, perhaps as a no foglight option, BMW would offer > a part which > might cover the bracket, but allow you to leave them open. I > actually heard > they offered something like this for the 318 i models, but I > dont know. > > Thanks. > > _____________________________ > Paul Elliott > '99 Alpine White M3; <15000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex > pads; Dinan Stage > II Supercharger > > > > _____________________________ > Paul Elliott > '99 Alpine White M3; <15000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex > pads; Dinan Stage > II Supercharger > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the > mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Roundel Misprint??? - from Rich Gay
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Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 10:06:19 -0500 From: "Rich Gay" <rich_gay@linbeck.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Roundel Misprint??? on 6/6/00 9:45 AM, Paul England at ettsn@mindspring.com wrote: > All I see is the caption to some photos. I don't see what you mean, and > certainly nothing that could be illegal in VA. In this case 'Beemer' is > indeed referring to a motorcycle, so that's not it. What is it you see? Read it carefully. - Rich
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#7. A032R pressures - from Ed Tang
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Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 08:28:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: A032R pressures >Just received my AO32r's . Am headed to Gingerman in >a couple of weeks and am >looking for some ball park starting pressures for my >'97 M3/4. I just came back from Gingerman over the weekend. I have the 235/40 17" all around so I started cold 37 front and 34 rear. It felt real good. If you have the 225 fronts and 245 rears than you might want to adjust the front by 2lb increments to adjust for the understeer. I would probably go b/w a 2-5 lb differential front to rear, front being higher. Good luck. Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints! http://photos.yahoo.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] A032R pressures - from John Van Houten
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Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 10:48:10 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] A032R pressures I don't run the A032s, but I wanted to make a comment on tire pressures. I generally run a higher cold pressure in the rear, by about 2 pounds. The fronts do more work, and thus get hotter, resulting in higher pressures (PV=nRT) on the track. Check your pressures (as well as sidewall rollover) after some hot laps to see how they stack up. John http://www.netcom.com/~jvanhout/bmw/bmw.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Tang" <etangf1@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2000 10:35 AM Subject: [E36M3] A032R pressures > Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 08:28:30 -0700 (PDT) > From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> > Subject: A032R pressures > > >Just received my AO32r's . Am headed to Gingerman in > >a couple of weeks and am > >looking for some ball park starting pressures for my > >'97 M3/4. > > I just came back from Gingerman over the weekend. I > have the 235/40 17" all around so I started cold 37 > front and 34 rear. It felt real good. If you have the > 225 fronts and 245 rears than you might want to adjust > the front by 2lb increments to adjust for the > understeer. I would probably go b/w a 2-5 lb > differential front to rear, front being higher. Good > luck. > > Ed Tang > 95 Cosmos M3 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints! > http://photos.yahoo.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] BMW Oil - from Ken Robb
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Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 09:32:50 -0700 From: Ken Robb <kenrobb@willisallen.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW Oil you are wrong about the ticking caused by oil starvation under high G-loads as in auto-crossing. Under these conditions in some cars the oil pickup sucks air unless you overfill w/more than 7 qts. It makes no difference what weight oil the pickup can't reach. LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 03:10:39 EDT > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW Oil > > > Is it just me or does any one not worry that going > > against mfg. spec for oil is bad be it thicker or > > thinner. > > > > I would have assumed that a thick oil like 15w-50 > > would flow slower through some of the very tiny oil > > journals in the engine.....(that may cause oil > > starvation) > > > > > > I went to the dealer to purchase oil yesterday, and > > > was told that the 5W-40 > > > synthetic oil has been superceded by 5W-30 oil. The > > > 5W-30 is made by > > > Castrol. > > > > > > I decided to pass on the lightweight oil, and will > > > purchase some Mobil 1 > > > 15W-50 since I'll be doing some track events over > > > the next few months. > > > > > > Does anyone use a lightweight oil (5W-30) in their > > > M3 when driven on the > > > track? Am I just being paranoid here, or is 5W-30 > > > really too light? > > We could probably debate which oil to use and how often to change until the > next millennium. I do not use full synthetic oils. I do agree full > synthetic oils are superior to ordinary petroleum based oils; however, there > is one thing full synthetic oils can't do. Moisture and corrosive agents > accumulate in the crankcase. The only way to remove them is to drain the oil > and replace with new. > > Therefore, I religiously stick to my 3,000 mile/3 month oil change routine. > The heck with this 15,000 mile/1 year recommended oil change with synthetic > oils. I'm draining my oil out after 3 months regardless what the dash lights > say. I don't see any reason to pay $5 per quart for oil that is only going > to be used 3,000 miles. > > In many ways, I think oil is oil. Just change it often, keep it clean, > change the oil filter at least every other oil change. I do have a bias > against Pennsylvania oils (i.e., Penzoil, Quaker State) and I won't use them. > I think they are "waxy." I may be absurd regarding the Pennsylvania oils > but everybody is entitled to their eccentricities :) My preferred oil brand > is Valvoline. I've been using Valvoline's DuraBlend synthetic blend oil. I > can buy it for about $2.29 per quart. > > I believe thicker is better, especially in Dallas in the summer. The last 2 > summers in Dallas have been exceedingly hot. And I think the M3 engine is a > hot running engine. I smile every time I open the hood and see the hood > scoop for the alternator. How many other engines are so hot that they need a > dedicated hood scoop for the alternator? I've driven my M3 at night, gotten > out and put my hand on the hood. It is so hot you can't keep your hand on > the hood. It worries me to think of running a 5W-30 oil in an M3 in Dallas > in the summer. > > I don't believe ordinary petroleum based oils maintain their viscosity. I > remember a test by Consumer Reports or Popular Mechanics 15 years ago. They > tested various 10W-40, 10W-30, and 5W-30 oils. Oil companies add what are > called "viscosity improvers" in order to make an oil span a range like > 10W-40. The wider the range, the more viscosity improvers required. 10W-40 > has the most viscosity improvers and 10W-30 has the least. > > The test showed that the viscosity improvers quickly break down and the oil > returns to its base weight. It was something like a 10W-40 oil after just > 500 miles is more like a 10W-30 oil. After 1,000 miles, the 10W-40 oil was > down to 10W-20. And after 1,500 miles, certainly by 2,000 miles, the 10W-40 > oil was just straight 10W oil! By 3,000 miles, you had nothing more than 10W > oil. > > Oil companies have probably improved their oils in the last 15 years but I'm > sure no 10W-40 oil is still 40 weight after 3,000 miles. Full synthetic oils > are a different story. They don't use the same viscosity improvers and may > very well maintain their stated range for 3,000+ miles. This may be the one > reason to use full synthetic oils even if you do change every 3,000 miles. > > I have always used Valvoline DuraBlend 20W-50 in my M3. Winter and summer. > Valvoline makes a line of Racing oils in very heavy straight weights. They > make a straight 50 weight and even a straight 60 weight. The last two > summers I have started blending 4 quarts of DuraBlend 20W-50 with 3 quarts of > 50 or 60 weight oil. And just for grins, one oil change last summer I ran 7 > quarts of straight 60 weight. No ill effects that I can determine. > > The concern that thicker oil will cause starvation is unfounded IMHO. The > oil passages aren't that small. In my case, the temperature never dropped > below 80 degrees so the oil flowed plenty easy on starts. I would not > recommend running straight 60 weight in Minnesota in the winter but last > August in Dallas, no problem. > > The reason BMW is going to a 5W-30 oil is for gas mileage. Maybe for > emissions also. I don't think for a minute BMW has the best interests of the > owner in mind with this change to 5W-30 oil. BMW like every other car maker > has to meet the EPA CAFE standards or pay penalties. BMW is trying to boost > the corporate fleet fuel mileage and save BMW money. Nothing more. I'm sure > my 60 weight oil cost me 1 or so mpg but when you are stuck roasting in > Dallas rush hour traffic, gas mileage is meaningless. > > BTW, my valves have never ticked. I'd wager that anybody with ticking valves > could stop the ticking by using a heavier weight petroleum based oil. Maybe > synthetic oils flow too well? The oil flows out of the lifters too fast. > I'd bet money I could run my M3 3 quarts low on oil and not hear ticking > valves. It just doesn't occur with my engine and oil. > > Some thoughts. > > Lowell Seaton > Dallas, Texas > '95 M3/2 > BMW CCA #131505 > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* -- ----------------------------------------------------- Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
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#10. June Laguna Seca Open Track Update - from Roger Baker
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Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 09:41:04 -0700 From: Roger Baker <rbaker@velodyne.com> Subject: June Laguna Seca Open Track Update For all those interested in yesterday's posing of the Laguna Seca Open Track June 17th-18th hosted by the Shelby Club, Scott Hirose (registration) has asked me to inform you all it would be best to CALL him first to discuss days & run groups, etc. for registration. It's so close to the event date if you don't speak to him directly you may not have a spot! Scott Hirose Deadline is Monday, June 12 (or when all groups are full) day: 408-774-8568 eve: 408-723-0630 Roger Baker