E36M3 #246

Friday, June 16, 2000 19:00:35

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. H2O upgrade - from Ben C Tickner
#2. RE: Schroth Rallye 3 harness(es) - from Fadeev, Alex
#3. Re: [E36M3] Let's throw out the Vanos! - from Sean Hester
#4. Re: [E36M3] Let's throw out the Vanos! - from mill
#5. Re: Schroth Rallye 3 harness(es) - from Paul England
#6. Re: Let's throw out the Vanos! - from Dennis Bowcut
#7. Re: : [E36M3] Re: 0-60 times - from Paul Elliott
#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Let's throw out the Vanos! - from Land Shark
#9. M3 Meets 18 Wheeler Re-tread Tire. Carnage at 11:00!!!!!!!!! - from Sean W. Smith
#10. RE: [E36M3] E36M3: Help with Speed Adjustable Volume Control - from Jim Bassett

-------------------- 1 --------------------

#1. H2O upgrade - from Ben C Tickner
Top
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 17:05:41 -0700 From: "Ben C Tickner" <ben@infofusion.com> Subject: H2O upgrade <I'll lead you to fresh cool water.. YOU have to drink it.> Ahhhh, the water tastes good from here.

Reply to: Ben C Tickner

Top

-------------------- 2 --------------------

#2. RE: Schroth Rallye 3 harness(es) - from Fadeev, Alex
Top
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 16:14:32 -0500 From: "Fadeev, Alex" <Alex.Fadeev@gte.com> Subject: RE: Schroth Rallye 3 harness(es) "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> wrote: > > I would never buy used seat belts. Nor would I sell mine to > anybody. You cannot know their true condition or age Paul, Can you tell us how exactly harnesses decay with age? Otherwise I would beg to differ with your opinion. Barring any structural damage to the belts, mounting brackets or bolts, a harness you buy from a fellow digester will serve you well. One thing to watch out for, and Schroth warns against this in their literature, do NOT bent the mounting brackets more the once. The brackets have to bent differently for each body type. So if you are shopping for a used E36 harness, make sure it came out of an E36 car. alex f > > From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> > > Subject: [WTB] Schroth Rallye 3 harness(es) > > > > looking for a used [but in good working order] Rallye 3 to > > fit my E36 M3/4 > > Please reply via private email to sdg2@execpc.com > > > > GMK > > '97 M3 sedan

Reply to: Fadeev, Alex

Top

-------------------- 3 --------------------

#3. Re: [E36M3] Let's throw out the Vanos! - from Sean Hester
Top
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 14:17:38 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Let's throw out the Vanos! > The vanos is active until 52-5400 rpms. > > Just having the transition off a few 100 rpms is good for an > 8-10 HP loss at 4800 rpms. wow! that much? that's a bigger deal then i was led to believe by the race shop that suggested using a non vanos engine to me. i'll have to yell at them. ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com

Reply to: Sean Hester

Top

-------------------- 4 --------------------

#4. Re: [E36M3] Let's throw out the Vanos! - from mill
Top
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 00:06:39 +0200 From: mill <mill99@gmx.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Let's throw out the Vanos! Hi Jim, Let me show you why you were wrong: > 1) The 92 brain (PN 0-261-200 402/403/405) is M3.1 > > You lose your knock sensors as well as the ability to > use an HFM, as M3.1 uses a hot WIRE meter.. no easy > retrofits, and the meter is too small for an M3 > > Further, M3.1 uses a different type of CAM SENSOR than > M3.3.1 so you need to retrofit/machine for the new sensor. > > 2) Vanos is active until 5400(ish) rpms and is significant > in producing power up to that point. Loss of vanos will > SIGNIFICANTLY affect your lap times in most courses > > 3) If it were a prudent thing to "remove" you'd need > to machine some sort of hardware replacement for the > existing intake gear, remove the vanos unit (oil slave) > and floating gear.. replace with your new one, remove > the oil control solenoid and spool valve, and program > the DME to ignore the lack of the solenoid (for faults) > and not actuate the vanos at all, since it switches > maps when vanos is on/off. > I see, you chilled down and I admit, I was wrong on the tech stuff (sometimes I have rather blasphemic ideas and somebody has to show that it doesn't work that way). That's the type of information I consider useful and I can learn something. Why not keeping it always on that level without getting personal or offending? I know, there are some folks out there, who just don't have the background to understand what's the point (especially on bimmer.org), but keep in mind, that not only that particular guy (which posted the thread) is reading your answer there, but also a lot of others. And if they do not get the answers, which they expect and read some rather offending than helpful information, they are more frustrated than satisfied with it. Let's end this discussion and have a nice weekend! mill

Reply to: mill

Top

-------------------- 5 --------------------

#5. Re: Schroth Rallye 3 harness(es) - from Paul England
Top
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:08:32 -0400 From: "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Schroth Rallye 3 harness(es) Real racecar harnesses (not Schroth type) have date codes. These have to be current to be legal in most organized racing. Not really a big deal for auto-x or schools. I questioned this to the good folks at Racer Wholesale (which is not far from where I live) and they kind of mumbled something about stitch decay, ozone material decay, blah-blah-blah. Basically, these belts are designed to withstand much more force than a typical street belt, and they also do not have recoiling units which take the flex in non-stressed motion (moving around to reach something, etc). Also, the part of the web that goes through the metal plate is subject to fatigue. Note that sanctioning bodies like the SCCA go by production date rather than install date, since it is much harder to fudge. That's why places like RW advertise "freshest belt codes". It seemed silly to me, too, but there HAS to be a reason right? And if there is a valid reason for people who make these kinds of rules, and they do it for MY safety, I should probably take it as gospel. I just think that something like seat belts are not a good place to go bargain hunting. It could kill you. Not much of a bargain, is it? If you are looking for a belt to hold you in the seat better, and not really be safer, you could buy some used belts and still buckle your factory belt over it, as an added measure of safety, I guess. I think I'd feel silly though... -Paul > "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> wrote: > > > > I would never buy used seat belts. Nor would I sell mine to > > anybody. You cannot know their true condition or age > > Paul, > Can you tell us how exactly harnesses decay with age? > Otherwise I would beg to differ with your opinion. Barring any structural > damage to the belts, mounting brackets or bolts, a harness you buy from a > fellow digester will serve you well. > One thing to watch out for, and Schroth warns against this in their > literature, do NOT bent the mounting brackets more the once. The brackets > have to bent differently for each body type. So if you are shopping for a > used E36 harness, make sure it came out of an E36 car. > > alex f

Reply to: Paul England

Top

-------------------- 6 --------------------

#6. Re: Let's throw out the Vanos! - from Dennis Bowcut
Top
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 15:52:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Dennis Bowcut <dbowcut@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Let's throw out the Vanos! OK, we need the stinking VANOS! Weren't there some posts last year with fixes for "rattling" or noisy VANOS' though? Rotating something, shimming something? BTW, ain't it great when the Shark gets cranky? Usually it's when we finally get to the bottom of one of his diatribes that the explanation gets into the layman language even I can understand. Thanks Jim: Stay as sweet as you are. Sean: Don't give up! Everyone else: Keep chumming the briny. Dennis __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/

Reply to: Dennis Bowcut

Top

-------------------- 7 --------------------

#7. Re: : [E36M3] Re: 0-60 times - from Paul Elliott
Top
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 19:22:20 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Re: : [E36M3] Re: 0-60 times Yea, but all of these factors vary....What doesnt vary is the fact that Always, the M roadster is the fastest, followed by the M coupe, followed by the M3...Turn to the back of all the car mags, and see for yourself... Let's face it....The engine variations, temps, humidity, and track conditions cant Always favor the cars in that order! Must be somethin' else. Perhaps Jim put his finger on it. ie, maybe the different exhaust config allows greater HP than BMW publishes. That could certainly account for it, and it makes sense...Ataway Jim! _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3; <15000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger -----Original Message----- From: david tow <david_tow@hotmail.com> To: pelliott@rcn.com <pelliott@rcn.com> Cc: e36m3@bmwmpower.com <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Date: Friday, June 16, 2000 2:25 PM Subject: Re: : [E36M3] Re: 0-60 times >Engine variations, temperature, humidity, track conditions, etc. all have >some effect on the results, Paul. > >David Tow > >>From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> >>To: <david_tow@hotmail.com> >>CC: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> >>Subject: : [E36M3] Re: 0-60 times >>Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 23:06:34 -0400 >> >>David, >> >> >Just for the record; Car and Driver's quickest M3 was recorded as 5.3 >>seconds from zero to 60, and 14 seconds flat (at 100 mph) on the quarter >>mile run. It was featured in a comparison test with a 300ZX, a Supra, and >>a >>VR4. The article was named, I believe, "Mid-life Crisis". >>The 95 yellow M3 there, of course, won the gold with ease. >>Road & Track recorded a best of 5.4 and 14.1 in a comparison test with the >>Mercedes C36. That was also a 95 M3.< >> >>Thanks for the info. I thought 5.1 was a tad too fast. But, apparently >>not >>for the M roadster....I still dont understand how the roadster consistantly >>pulls 5.0 - 5.2 times, then the M cpe falls in a couple tenths behind, >>followd by the M3. All with same tires, engines, gear ratios, and weight >>too close to account for even a fraction of a tenth. Wind resistance? >>Different rear suspensions? Who knows.... >> >>_____________________________ >>Paul Elliott >>'99 Alpine White M3; <15000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan >>Stage >>II Supercharger >> >> >>_____________________________ >>Paul Elliott >>'99 Alpine White M3; <15000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan >>Stage >>II Supercharger >> >> > >________________________________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com >

Reply to: Paul Elliott

Top

-------------------- 8 --------------------

#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: Let's throw out the Vanos! - from Land Shark
Top
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 17:29:34 -0600 (MDT) From: Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Let's throw out the Vanos! On Fri, 16 Jun 2000, Dennis Bowcut wrote: > VANOS' though? Rotating something, shimming > something? Rotation of the gear by approx. 120 degrees will eliminate some of the metallic noise, but was done as a "customer appeasement" and doesn't really "fix" anything. Shimming/etc was done to replace the 325i vanos unit w/ the M3 system which is/was better "supported" and hence makes less noise. Jim

Reply to: Land Shark

Top

-------------------- 9 --------------------

#9. M3 Meets 18 Wheeler Re-tread Tire. Carnage at 11:00!!!!!!!!! - from Sean W. Smith
Top
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 19:37:02 -0400 From: "Sean W. Smith" <seansmith@nc.rr.com> Subject: M3 Meets 18 Wheeler Re-tread Tire. Carnage at 11:00!!!!!!!!! All, My poor M3. This afternoon I am driving home from work in my newly acquired 95 M3. About 1/4 mile from exiting I40 in Raleigh, NC and giant peice of re-tread comes flying out from underneath the car in front of me. I didn't even have time to look and see if it was safe to swerve so I hit the brakes and ran into it at ~70 Mph. It made a lot of noise and it was immediately aparent something was wedged under the care. I safely pulled over on to the shoulder and to my shock the pieice of tire nearlly completely ripped the front bumper cover and foglight assembly off the car. the only thing holding the thing to the car at all was the JT Design Brake ducts attached to the aluminum splash guard. I used a screwdriver and disc connected the other brake hose and put all the mangled peices in the trunk (half hanging out). Tucked all the wires and the other hose up and drove it home the last mile. Good news is no mechanical damage of fluid leaks. The fenders and hood aren't damaged. Drivers send turn signal and bulb are smashed. Anyway I have a number of questions for the group. This car IS 5 years old. its my track car. It doesn't have to be perfect but should be consistent with a 5 year old. I have a high deductible ($1000) on insurance and am not sure if I want to claim this. Looking for feedback and ideas on repairing this repair options, etc. Questions... 1. Any Idea what this front assembly peice costs??? (See pictures for a better idea of the damage) 2. Any chance of getting one used. bimmer world , junkyards, or less inexpensive after market options?? 3. Other miscellaneous comments and opinions are welcome. 4. Any Idea if JT Designs will sell peices of their kit?? It looks like a I need a few. Here are some pics I took when I got home a little while ago. I've seen these peices of crap littering the highway for years but never ran into one of any significant size. What a whallop!!! The Carnage: (6 pictures, use next button to scroll) http://www.zing.com/album/pictures.html?id=4294200849&p=4289348520 Thanks, Sean

Reply to: Sean W. Smith

Top

-------------------- 10 --------------------

#10. RE: [E36M3] E36M3: Help with Speed Adjustable Volume Control - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 16:55:19 -0700 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36M3: Help with Speed Adjustable Volume Control > About 6 months ago someone posted the trick to adjusting the > Speed Adjustable > Volume Control on the stock/HK head unit. Something to do with > the mode button > and 1 thru 6? Doing so would make the radio either ignore road > speed or could > make it turn up the volume a lot at various speeds. > > Could someone in the know forward the instructions? Take a look at: http://www.bimmer.org/e36/messages/archive/msgsy1999w23/8090.html Is that it? (And, BTW, sorry to hear you've had to sell your M3/4, but understand why. Hope I'm never in that position :-)) Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - the new UUC swaybars, tested at THill yesterday, are AWESOME! Thanks Ben! More "testing" at Laguna Seca on Sunday - yeehaa!

Reply to: Jim Bassett

Top