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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: total cost of tracking my M3 - from Sean Hester
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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 13:51:49 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: total cost of tracking my M3 > >>total cost? $31,567.84 > >> > >>more then $10,000 a year. (10-15 days a year). or roughly $1000-$1200 > >>per > >>day. > >Sean, > >The idea is to not keep track of the expenses :). isn't that the truth. >When I bought my 325 to setup for club racing I started an initial >spreadsheet of planned expenses and it did not look pretty. I've decided >to ditch the spreadsheet and just throw all my bills into a box so that I >can do a post mortem at the end of the year rather than a running balance. yeah for racing i'm just not looking. at least until the end of each season. the only reason i posted this figure now is that i just sold that car. (if you follow the "sean hester soap opera" you knew that ;-) i also remember a thread a while back where someone asked "how much do track days cost?" and the replys were mostly "i dunno but not much". well... apparently it IS alot if you're serious about it. ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Re: rear pads and rotors - from Robert Jackowitz
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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:52:42 -0400 From: Robert Jackowitz <RJackowitz@HARVPART.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: rear pads and rotors Another alternative to the stubby 7mm socket is this: If you have a normal-sized socket, simply slide a 7mm closed-end wrench over the hex head before inserting the hex socket into the guide bolt. This enables you to turn the larger hex socket with the wrench as opposed to a ratchet. Then I just torque those top-rear bolts by hand. Rob '97 /4 On Wednesday, June 21, 2000 4:30 PM, Jones, John [SMTP:JJones@INTERGEN.com] wrote: > Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:21:37 -0400 > From: "Jones, John" <JJones@INTERGEN.com> > Subject: Re: rear pads and rotors > > Vern asked: > ~~~~~~~~~~ > How difficult is it to change the rear rotors and pads on my 98 M3? > ~~~~~~~~~~ > > Piece of cake. However, you will need a VERY short hex socket > for the top bolt on the rear, as the bolt (guide bolt? anyone? anyone?) > lines up nicely with the strut, and leaves no room for a long socket. > > John Jones > 98 ///M3-4 > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] RE:HELP ME!!!!! - from Sean Hester
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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 13:57:43 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:HELP ME!!!!! >I did have a 4 wheel alignment after I changed camber, however I think >it may be wrong so I will have them recheck it, my tires are definitely >cupped, I do not mind the inside tire wear but cupping causes the car to >shake. Is there a way to decrease my negative camber to -1 instead of >-2+ ??? by swapping the bearings you're "stuck" at -2. if you want something between stock and -2 you nned to get adjustible camber plates. then youc an get any amount of camber you want. ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#4. RE: Michigan Speedway - from Vijay Nuthulapaty
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Date: 21 Jun 2000 16:04:48 -0500 From: Vijay Nuthulapaty <Vijay.Nuthulapaty@abnamro.com> Subject: RE: Michigan Speedway John, I did this school two years ago, in 98. The course that is setup is a 7 turn course that uses turn 4 of the oval and most of the front straight. The infield course is not that challenging as it is pretty flat. It could be a personal thing but I definitely did not enjoy this course. Half of the track is the front straight (even including the turn, the banking makes it a straight) where horsepower rules. On the other hand it is fun to watch big horsepower guys blast through the straight. I actually recommended this track to a couple of my friends who have high horsepower cars, but I decided that I am not going to do it. On the other hand Motor City's other school at Grattan is my most favorite track. Vijay 98 M3 94 325i >>Anybody know anything about the road course that clubs use at Michigan >>Speedway? I'm jonesing to get some more track time, but I'm not sure if >>its worth the drive time and relatively high expense (more than most >>club schools) for a road course at an oval track. I looked for a map, >>hotlap, description, etc. on the web and it's just NASCAR roundy-round >>based stuff. Any help is appreciated.
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#5. Re: [E36M3] RE:HELP ME!!!!! - from twisty M3
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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:29:38 PDT From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:HELP ME!!!!! Or you could try swapping them back to normal and then getting either camber shims or camber correction bolts. I opted for the camber shims and that gave me right around 1 degree of addtional negative camber (equates to just over -1.5°). Tire wear has been fine so far, steering is more responsive and I'll get a chance to try it out on the track in about 3 weeks. It'll run you quite a bit less than the adjustable camber plates BUT if you think you might ever want more or less again in the future, the camber plates are probably a much better idea. Chances are I'll end up getting the plates eventually. Hope this helps, Jonathan P.S. Someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong but I *think* the shims could be a problem if you run anything wider than stock tire sizes. > >>I did have a 4 wheel alignment after I changed camber, however I think >>it may be wrong so I will have them recheck it, my tires are definitely >>cupped, I do not mind the inside tire wear but cupping causes the car to >>shake. Is there a way to decrease my negative camber to -1 instead of >>-2+ ??? > >by swapping the bearings you're "stuck" at -2. if you want something >between stock and -2 you nned to get adjustible camber plates. then youc >an >get any amount of camber you want. > ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#6. Extended Warranty Question - from Collin Porterfield
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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:34:57 -0500 From: "Collin Porterfield" <cporterfield@home.com> Subject: Extended Warranty Question Does anyone on the list have any experience with an extended warranty plan offered by Travelers Insurance call the PremiereUltra Plan? If, so, please email me privately with your impressions of the plan and how well Travelers treats claims. Thanks, Collin Porterfield Dallas TX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 3:59 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:HELP ME!!!!! > Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 13:57:43 PDT > From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE:HELP ME!!!!! > > >I did have a 4 wheel alignment after I changed camber, however I think > >it may be wrong so I will have them recheck it, my tires are definitely > >cupped, I do not mind the inside tire wear but cupping causes the car to > >shake. Is there a way to decrease my negative camber to -1 instead of > >-2+ ??? > > by swapping the bearings you're "stuck" at -2. if you want something > between stock and -2 you nned to get adjustible camber plates. then youc an > get any amount of camber you want. > ________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#7. FS: BMW CD changer; Viper alarm with plug-in adaptor; K&N cone - from Jay Sala
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Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 06:05:40 +0800 From: Jay Sala <jsala@mist.com> Subject: FS: BMW CD changer; Viper alarm with plug-in adaptor; K&N cone filter I found a few more mods that I took off my car that I would like to sell: BMW 6-CD Changer - part number 82-11-1-469-404 - fits newer BMWs (including '96-'98 E36, E46) - 3 magazines (1 original BMW + 2 extra) - protective cover - works perfectly - $320 obo including shipping Viper 500 alarm - 2 remotes - power lock and flashing light interfaces - includes adaptor to plug into factory BMW alarm wiring harness - works on E36 that are pre-wired for alarm - perfect working condition - $160 obo including shipping (save $$ vs the BMW alarm or even the Stellar alarm) K&N cone filter with E36 mounting hardware - replaces factory airbox - what I built before I broke down and bought a JimC intake - uses only the finest Home Depot tubing and connectors - includes K&N cleaning/oiling kit - sounds great -- throaty and sporty - $30 obo including shipping Ok, that should be it! The MContour wheels/tires, M3 suspension, x-brace, M3 exhaust, M Roadster shifter, and Scroth Rallye4 harnesses are sold. Thanks for the bandwidth. Jay Sala BMW CCA, Golden Gate Chapter
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#8. UUC Sway Bars - my impressions (Part I - longish) - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 15:34:23 -0700 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: UUC Sway Bars - my impressions (Part I - longish) Well, I finally got around to installing my UUC sway bars earlier this month, and now have a few driving events on them, so I thought I'd post my impressions. First, the installation process went fairly smoothly (of course it helped to have a bunch of you install them before I did, so I could learn from you :-)). So, thanks to everybody who posted info & tips on this. One interesting tip I got from Lew Becker was to use increasingly bigger box wrenches to open the front bushing to slip them over the sway bars - this worked great, and as Lew indicated, reduced the risk of jabbing oneself with a screwdriver. Thanks Lew. Also, I found I didn't need to drop the exhaust to install the rear bar. Just wiggle/snake it in there. For me, the less I have to disassemble, the better I like it. YMMV. And thanks to Donna S. for her assistance as well - to have someone there to lend a hand and say "Ummm, why are you doing it THAT way?" is always very helpful :-) So, I finish up the install (front set to full stiff, rear to full soft as recommended by UUC) and HAVE to take it for a test drive, even though it's after midnight and I'm tired. First impression is: "Holy lack of body roll, Batman!" Wow. I knew my car leaned in turns a bit, but for crying out loud, I never realized how much until it was nearly all gone. A few "spirited" on- and off-ramps tell me that the car is understeering a bit more than it did before (totally seat-of-the-pants feeling only), but that's to be expected. First driving event is a Golden Gate Chapter autox. Still no body roll, but boy did the car plow! A lot...everywhere :-) Again, sort of expected. Several people (Steve A., Mark D., Russ, others) observed that there was NO body roll as I made my way through the course. And apparently I was lifting the inside front wheel on the final, slow turn to the finish. I'd say the front sway bay was a tad too stiff, whaddya think? :-) (FWIW, I still didn't do too badly: http://www.ggc-bmw-cca.org/DrivingEvents/AutoCross/June2000/Results.htm). I had joked that since the bars are now adjustable, I could adjust them between runs, but the run group was small so there wasn't really any time :-) There were fun runs at the end of the event (due to all the volunteers' hard work getting the event to run pretty smoothly - thanks everyone!), but family commitments didn't allow me to stick around for them. That would have been a great opportunity to adjust the front bar and have another go at the course. So, later the following week, I adjusted the front bar to the middle holes in preparation for a couple of upcoming track days: one at Thunderhill, and one at Laguna Seca. Comments on those in Part II (within the next day, as work & home tasks permit :-)). Thanks for reading this far. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4
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#9. 225 vs. 245 Front tires - from Suwipin Martono
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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 15:40:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Suwipin Martono <martono@newton.me.berkeley.edu> Subject: 225 vs. 245 Front tires Dear all, I'm wondering what will be the difference (driving-wise) if I choose to use 245/40-17 for my front tires instead of the 225 stock ones? Why does BMW choose 225 for the front tires in the first place? Thanx in advance :) pin
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#10. RE: Track Tires/Trailer Hitch - from BHilton@rhythms.net
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Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 17:23:12 -0600 From: BHilton@rhythms.net Subject: RE: Track Tires/Trailer Hitch Tom Tice wrote: ============================= The instructions mention a need to trim the rear bumper fascia on the M3 and this concerns me - otherwise it looks to be a fairly straightforward and neat installation. ============================= Tom, I have the Da'Lan hitch installed on my '95 M3. The mention of trimming the fascia worried me, too, so I told the guys who installed the hitch NOT to trim it unless they absolutely had to. Well, they were able to install the hitch without trimming the fascia, but the fascia is now uneven due to the added 1/4-inch thick metal installed between the fascia and the trunk wall. I have been planning to trim the fascia to clean things up. You basically will need to cut out a section approximately 1/4-inch deep by about 10 inches long from the side of the fascia that butts against the trunk wall. The easiest way to do it would be to install the hitch, re-install the fascia, mark the fascia where it needs to be trimmed, and then take the fascia off and trim it. Let me know if you need any more info. I have a digital camera and would be glad to take pics. -Bret