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#1. Re: [E36M3] Rear Caliper Bracket Torque and Parts in SF Bay - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:41:54 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Caliper Bracket Torque and Parts in SF Bay Drew wrote: >Before heading down I5 yesterday, I replaced by pads and rotors for the >first time. Everything went smoothly until I got to reinstalling the left >rear caliper bracket. I got out my (cheap) torque wrench, set it to 80 lbs >(the same I had used in the front), proceeded to tighten, and, to my great >surprise, both bolts simply continued to spin as I cranked away. Upon >removal, the thread on the bolts appeared to be partially stripped starting >about halfway up the threaded portion. >1. What is the proper mounting torque for the rear caliper brackets? Is is >possible that I have defective parts? That my torque wrench is woefully >inaccurate? Actually I'm also curious what the proper torque for those bolts is too. FWIW I did something similar (even though it is NOT an E36 M3) the bolts on the front caliper brackets were a 19mm head and the ones on the rear caliper brackets were a 17mm head. I suspect the 19mm head is an M12 bolt and the 17mm head is an M10 and therefore require different torque applications. I went to 80 ft-lbs on the rears and sheared the head off one of the bolts! Dammit! and these things are grade 12.9 (sheesh!) I now keep a set of these bolts as spares just in case I put my head up my culo next time I change rotors. You don't want to hear the story of my buddy who drove home with only one bolt holding the caliper on.(numerous stops, removing wheel, re-installing, repeat each time the brakes were applied) :-( Carlos Diamond black M3 Motor City Chapter PS Could someone send me Suzy's email address, I need to go on vacation hold.
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations - from Andy Korczynski
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:05:23 -0500 From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations I just use all four rubber stopper jack points on the car (you know, the ones right under the four little cutouts that hide the hole used to jack the car with the emergency jacker or better yet a real jack with a modified head). I didn't buy those special hockey puck add ons to my good ol' Sears jackstands, instead I just use a small peice of wood to somewhat evenly distribute the load on the hockey puck. I've done this several times and the car is very stable. Andy K. -----Original Message----- From: Thomas E. Tice To: E36M3 Sent: 6/26/00 11:39 PM Subject: [E36M3] Jackstand locations Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 00:33:50 -0400 From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Jackstand locations Gang, Tonight, I set out to begin the pre-track event regiment of brake bleeding etc. I normally jack my car up and use jack stands on all 4 corners while I perform the ritual and give everything a thorough inspection. No problem with the new E36 until I looked for a place to put the jack stands on the rear. I ended up putting them under the trailing arms but am not too thrilled with this as the arms are not quite level. What do others do? TIA, Tom Tice '98 M3/4 Hoping it stays on the stands. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#3. [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help - from Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:06:03 -0400 From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com Subject: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help Hey guys and gals, I need some help. About six weeks ago my check engine light came on. Pulled the code per Jim C's website and got a 1226 - Knock Sensor #2. I disconnected the battery for a few hours to clear the DME, and a day or so later the CE light came back. 1226 again. OK, so I know what the problem is. As luck would have it, I was going to visit some relatives in south FL a few weeks later, so I paid a visit to Stephen Wolff at South Motors. Cool guy, and I pick up a knock sensor for nearly 40% less than my local dealer wanted. (As an aside, if you are in the Miami area for any reason, go see Stephen and buy anything and everything you may need for your car for the next year. You support a good guy and save a bundle.) This past Saturday I finally got a chance to install the new sensor. It's a big PITA, you have to remove the intake manifold because it's buried way under there. I get the car all back together and take it for a drive. No CE light, car feels stronger, everythings great, job well done, saved myself some $$$. So today I'm driving to work, CE light comes on. WTF? Pull the code - 1226 again. Double WTF?! I'm at a loss for what to do. Check the grounds? Is it possible that there is nothing actually wrong with the sensor, but the engine is pinging excessively and throwing the light? I can't hear any pinging. Is something loose and vibrating and fooling the sensor? Help! TIA Eric '95 M3 '95 325i
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations - from Andy Korczynski
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:09:20 -0500 From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations I just use all four rubber stopper jack points on the car (you know, the ones right under the four little cutouts that hide the hole used to jack the car with the emergency jacker or better yet a real jack with a modified head). I didn't buy those special hockey puck add ons to my good ol' Sears jackstands, instead I just use a small peice of wood to somewhat evenly distribute the load on the hockey puck. I've done this several times and the car is very stable. Andy K. -----Original Message----- From: Thomas E. Tice To: E36M3 Sent: 6/26/00 11:39 PM Subject: [E36M3] Jackstand locations Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 00:33:50 -0400 From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Jackstand locations Gang, Tonight, I set out to begin the pre-track event regiment of brake bleeding etc. I normally jack my car up and use jack stands on all 4 corners while I perform the ritual and give everything a thorough inspection. No problem with the new E36 until I looked for a place to put the jack stands on the rear. I ended up putting them under the trailing arms but am not too thrilled with this as the arms are not quite level. What do others do? TIA, Tom Tice '98 M3/4 Hoping it stays on the stands. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help - from Matt Henson
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 06:20:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help Eric, The knock sensor is very sensitive to the torque of the bolt. If it's too loose it will not be sensitive enough and sometimes it will set a code when the DME does a test as you rev past 3k at light throttle. If it's too tight then it will think that the car is always knocking and set a code (just off idle? Jim?). You also need to make sure that the metal on the block where the KS goes is clean when you install it. I've been having the same problems with my car so I've done some research.. If anyone has anything else they'd like to add, please do.. -Matt --- Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:06:03 -0400 > From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com > Subject: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help > > > > Hey guys and gals, I need some help. About six > weeks ago my check engine light > came on. Pulled the code per Jim C's website and > got a 1226 - Knock Sensor #2. > I disconnected the battery for a few hours to clear > the DME, and a day or so > later the CE light came back. 1226 again. > > OK, so I know what the problem is. As luck would > have it, I was going to visit > some relatives in south FL a few weeks later, so I > paid a visit to Stephen Wolff > at South Motors. Cool guy, and I pick up a knock > sensor for nearly 40% less > than my local dealer wanted. (As an aside, if you > are in the Miami area for any > reason, go see Stephen and buy anything and > everything you may need for your car > for the next year. You support a good guy and save > a bundle.) This past > Saturday I finally got a chance to install the new > sensor. It's a big PITA, you > have to remove the intake manifold because it's > buried way under there. I get > the car all back together and take it for a drive. > No CE light, car feels > stronger, everythings great, job well done, saved > myself some $$$. > > So today I'm driving to work, CE light comes on. > WTF? Pull the code - 1226 > again. Double WTF?! I'm at a loss for what to do. > Check the grounds? Is it > possible that there is nothing actually wrong with > the sensor, but the engine is > pinging excessively and throwing the light? I can't > hear any pinging. Is > something loose and vibrating and fooling the > sensor? Help! > > TIA > > Eric > '95 M3 > '95 325i > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help - from Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:36:50 -0400 From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help Matt wrote: >>>Eric, The knock sensor is very sensitive to the torque of the bolt. If it's too loose it will not be sensitive enough and sometimes it will set a code when the DME does a test as you rev past 3k at light throttle. If it's too tight then it will think that the car is always knocking and set a code (just off idle? Jim?). You also need to make sure that the metal on the block where the KS goes is clean when you install it. I've been having the same problems with my car so I've done some research.. If anyone has anything else they'd like to add, please do.. -Matt<<< I thoroughly cleaned the block surface with a scotchbrite, and torqued the sensor down with my trusty small 3/8 Crapsman torque wrench. Even used Newton/meters for a European flair. If I were to tighten or loosen the sensor, which way would I go? It's a pain to get all of that stuff off to get to the sensor. Have you been able to solve the problem on your car? Eric
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#7. Need ONE 235/40 MXX3 - from Wentz, Don
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:36:09 -0700 From: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com> Subject: Need ONE 235/40 MXX3 Any of you M3ers in Portland or Seattle area got one laying around? My 95 has 2 tires almost down to the wear bars and 2 with 70% tread (evidently the previous owner didn't rotate), and the ubiquitous new spare. I'd like to either swap a worn tire and some $$ for YOUR new spare, or my almost new spare for 2 tires with 60% or better tread. Like to finish wearing-out all the MXX3s before I get something new. thx, dw 95 M3
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#8. RE: [E36M3] RE: Power rear vents on M3/2 - from John Firestone
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:01:58 -0400 (EDT) From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Power rear vents on M3/2 On Mon, 26 Jun 2000, Chester Wong wrote: > To save that $20, of course! > > > All the parts you need are euro parts. I don't know why they didn't > > leave it on the us version. Well, it would have cost a bit more than that. I think you could have also had them as an option on a U.S. car if you were patient and persistent with BMW NA. -John '96 318is -- john.firestone@nord-com.net
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations - from Andy Korczynski
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 12:10:37 -0500 From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations Well if you don't have one of those fancy adapters from the ultimate garage (www.ultimategarage.com) you can use the emergency jack to lift the car up and then slip the stands underneath. Another technique that I've used is to use a bigger peice of wood and just jack the car up by a point very close to the hockey puck (I know probably not the smartest thing to do, flame on....). Andy K. -----Original Message----- From: tetice@att.net To: Andy Korczynski Cc: "'Thomas E. Tic 'E36M3 ' <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: 6/27/00 10:31 AM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations Andy, I use the rubber stopper jack points for my floor jack and thus have difficulty kicking the floor jack out and sliding the jack stand in before the car falls(just kidding):-). Perhaps you could enlighten me as to your complete procedure. What do you use for jack points that leave the rubber stopper points accessible? In the front I jack up by the rubber jack points and then use the "frame rails" to support the jackstands. On previous cars, I used the front crossmember to lift the entire front end. The M3s are so low I can't get my jack in that far (without using ramps). On the rear, I have used the differential to lift the rear end. The M3 may also be too low for this but if not, I am skeptical of lifting this car by the diff. Is that a safe thing on the E36s? Tom Tice > I just use all four rubber stopper jack points on the car (you know, the > ones right under the four little cutouts that hide the hole used to jack the > car with the emergency jacker or better yet a real jack with a modified > head). I didn't buy those special hockey puck add ons to my good ol' Sears > jackstands, instead I just use a small peice of wood to somewhat evenly > distribute the load on the hockey puck. I've done this several times and > the car is very stable. > > Andy K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Thomas E. Tice > To: E36M3 > Sent: 6/26/00 11:39 PM > Subject: [E36M3] Jackstand locations > > Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 00:33:50 -0400 > From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: Jackstand locations > > Gang, > > Tonight, I set out to begin the pre-track event regiment of brake > bleeding etc. I normally jack my car up and use jack stands on all 4 > corners while I perform the ritual and give everything a thorough > inspection. No problem with the new E36 until I looked for a place to > put the jack stands on the rear. I ended up putting them under the > trailing arms but am not too thrilled with this as the arms are not > quite level. What do others do? > > TIA, > Tom Tice > '98 M3/4 Hoping it stays on the stands. > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: Power rear vents on M3/2 - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 13:44:09 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Power rear vents on M3/2 John Firestone wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:01:58 -0400 (EDT) > From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Power rear vents on M3/2 > > On Mon, 26 Jun 2000, Chester Wong wrote: > > > To save that $20, of course! > > > > > All the parts you need are euro parts. I don't know why they didn't > > > leave it on the us version. > > Well, it would have cost a bit more than that. I think you could have also > had them as an option on a U.S. car if you were patient and persistent with > BMW NA. > Just not after Jan/99. I tried and tried and tried but to no avail. :-( Jim E.