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#1. Re: Rear caliper bracket torque - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 14:02:08 EDT From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Re: Rear caliper bracket torque Dale recently added my new Lets brake it article to my home page. All the info you need is there. Connect direct to: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/brakes/e36_lets_brake_it.html If it makes you feel any better, I did the same thing. Same head size but the fronts are M12 and the rears M10. I stopped at the mush point though. Ron@unofficialbmw.com FLY BMW Marlborough, CT www.unofficialbmw.com/ronstygar.html
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#2. RE: [E36M3] E36M3 #283 - from Edwards, Robert
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 13:59:21 -0400 From: "Edwards, Robert" <rme@mlis.state.md.us> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36M3 #283 -----Original Message----- From: E36M3 [mailto:e36m3@bmwmpower.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 2:00 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] E36M3 #283 This digest contains the following messages: 1. Re: [E36M3] Rear Caliper Bracket Torque and Parts in SF Bay by: <Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com> 2. RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations by: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> 3. [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help by: <Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com> 4. RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations by: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> 5. Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help by: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> 6. Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help by: <Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com> 7. Need ONE 235/40 MXX3 by: Wentz, Don <don.wentz@intel.com> 8. RE: [E36M3] RE: Power rear vents on M3/2 by: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> 9. RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations by: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> 10. Re: [E36M3] RE: Power rear vents on M3/2 by: <nabli@attglobal.net> -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:41:54 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Caliper Bracket Torque and Parts in SF Bay Drew wrote: >Before heading down I5 yesterday, I replaced by pads and rotors for the >first time. Everything went smoothly until I got to reinstalling the left >rear caliper bracket. I got out my (cheap) torque wrench, set it to 80 lbs >(the same I had used in the front), proceeded to tighten, and, to my great >surprise, both bolts simply continued to spin as I cranked away. Upon >removal, the thread on the bolts appeared to be partially stripped starting >about halfway up the threaded portion. >1. What is the proper mounting torque for the rear caliper brackets? Is is >possible that I have defective parts? That my torque wrench is woefully >inaccurate? Actually I'm also curious what the proper torque for those bolts is too. FWIW I did something similar (even though it is NOT an E36 M3) the bolts on the front caliper brackets were a 19mm head and the ones on the rear caliper brackets were a 17mm head. I suspect the 19mm head is an M12 bolt and the 17mm head is an M10 and therefore require different torque applications. I went to 80 ft-lbs on the rears and sheared the head off one of the bolts! Dammit! and these things are grade 12.9 (sheesh!) I now keep a set of these bolts as spares just in case I put my head up my culo next time I change rotors. You don't want to hear the story of my buddy who drove home with only one bolt holding the caliper on.(numerous stops, removing wheel, re-installing, repeat each time the brakes were applied) :-( Carlos Diamond black M3 Motor City Chapter PS Could someone send me Suzy's email address, I need to go on vacation hold. -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:05:23 -0500 From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations I just use all four rubber stopper jack points on the car (you know, the ones right under the four little cutouts that hide the hole used to jack the car with the emergency jacker or better yet a real jack with a modified head). I didn't buy those special hockey puck add ons to my good ol' Sears jackstands, instead I just use a small peice of wood to somewhat evenly distribute the load on the hockey puck. I've done this several times and the car is very stable. Andy K. -----Original Message----- From: Thomas E. Tice To: E36M3 Sent: 6/26/00 11:39 PM Subject: [E36M3] Jackstand locations Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 00:33:50 -0400 From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Jackstand locations Gang, Tonight, I set out to begin the pre-track event regiment of brake bleeding etc. I normally jack my car up and use jack stands on all 4 corners while I perform the ritual and give everything a thorough inspection. No problem with the new E36 until I looked for a place to put the jack stands on the rear. I ended up putting them under the trailing arms but am not too thrilled with this as the arms are not quite level. What do others do? TIA, Tom Tice '98 M3/4 Hoping it stays on the stands. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. ************************************************************* -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:06:03 -0400 From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com Subject: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help Hey guys and gals, I need some help. About six weeks ago my check engine light came on. Pulled the code per Jim C's website and got a 1226 - Knock Sensor #2. I disconnected the battery for a few hours to clear the DME, and a day or so later the CE light came back. 1226 again. OK, so I know what the problem is. As luck would have it, I was going to visit some relatives in south FL a few weeks later, so I paid a visit to Stephen Wolff at South Motors. Cool guy, and I pick up a knock sensor for nearly 40% less than my local dealer wanted. (As an aside, if you are in the Miami area for any reason, go see Stephen and buy anything and everything you may need for your car for the next year. You support a good guy and save a bundle.) This past Saturday I finally got a chance to install the new sensor. It's a big PITA, you have to remove the intake manifold because it's buried way under there. I get the car all back together and take it for a drive. No CE light, car feels stronger, everythings great, job well done, saved myself some $$$. So today I'm driving to work, CE light comes on. WTF? Pull the code - 1226 again. Double WTF?! I'm at a loss for what to do. Check the grounds? Is it possible that there is nothing actually wrong with the sensor, but the engine is pinging excessively and throwing the light? I can't hear any pinging. Is something loose and vibrating and fooling the sensor? Help! TIA Eric '95 M3 '95 325i -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 08:09:20 -0500 From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations I just use all four rubber stopper jack points on the car (you know, the ones right under the four little cutouts that hide the hole used to jack the car with the emergency jacker or better yet a real jack with a modified head). I didn't buy those special hockey puck add ons to my good ol' Sears jackstands, instead I just use a small peice of wood to somewhat evenly distribute the load on the hockey puck. I've done this several times and the car is very stable. Andy K. -----Original Message----- From: Thomas E. Tice To: E36M3 Sent: 6/26/00 11:39 PM Subject: [E36M3] Jackstand locations Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 00:33:50 -0400 From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Jackstand locations Gang, Tonight, I set out to begin the pre-track event regiment of brake bleeding etc. I normally jack my car up and use jack stands on all 4 corners while I perform the ritual and give everything a thorough inspection. No problem with the new E36 until I looked for a place to put the jack stands on the rear. I ended up putting them under the trailing arms but am not too thrilled with this as the arms are not quite level. What do others do? TIA, Tom Tice '98 M3/4 Hoping it stays on the stands. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. ************************************************************* -------------------- 5 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 06:20:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help Eric, The knock sensor is very sensitive to the torque of the bolt. If it's too loose it will not be sensitive enough and sometimes it will set a code when the DME does a test as you rev past 3k at light throttle. If it's too tight then it will think that the car is always knocking and set a code (just off idle? Jim?). You also need to make sure that the metal on the block where the KS goes is clean when you install it. I've been having the same problems with my car so I've done some research.. If anyone has anything else they'd like to add, please do.. -Matt --- Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:06:03 -0400 > From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com > Subject: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help > > > > Hey guys and gals, I need some help. About six > weeks ago my check engine light > came on. Pulled the code per Jim C's website and > got a 1226 - Knock Sensor #2. > I disconnected the battery for a few hours to clear > the DME, and a day or so > later the CE light came back. 1226 again. > > OK, so I know what the problem is. As luck would > have it, I was going to visit > some relatives in south FL a few weeks later, so I > paid a visit to Stephen Wolff > at South Motors. Cool guy, and I pick up a knock > sensor for nearly 40% less > than my local dealer wanted. (As an aside, if you > are in the Miami area for any > reason, go see Stephen and buy anything and > everything you may need for your car > for the next year. You support a good guy and save > a bundle.) This past > Saturday I finally got a chance to install the new > sensor. It's a big PITA, you > have to remove the intake manifold because it's > buried way under there. I get > the car all back together and take it for a drive. > No CE light, car feels > stronger, everythings great, job well done, saved > myself some $$$. > > So today I'm driving to work, CE light comes on. > WTF? Pull the code - 1226 > again. Double WTF?! I'm at a loss for what to do. > Check the grounds? Is it > possible that there is nothing actually wrong with > the sensor, but the engine is > pinging excessively and throwing the light? I can't > hear any pinging. Is > something loose and vibrating and fooling the > sensor? Help! > > TIA > > Eric > '95 M3 > '95 325i > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/ -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:36:50 -0400 From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help Matt wrote: >>>Eric, The knock sensor is very sensitive to the torque of the bolt. If it's too loose it will not be sensitive enough and sometimes it will set a code when the DME does a test as you rev past 3k at light throttle. If it's too tight then it will think that the car is always knocking and set a code (just off idle? Jim?). You also need to make sure that the metal on the block where the KS goes is clean when you install it. I've been having the same problems with my car so I've done some research.. If anyone has anything else they'd like to add, please do.. -Matt<<< I thoroughly cleaned the block surface with a scotchbrite, and torqued the sensor down with my trusty small 3/8 Crapsman torque wrench. Even used Newton/meters for a European flair. If I were to tighten or loosen the sensor, which way would I go? It's a pain to get all of that stuff off to get to the sensor. Have you been able to solve the problem on your car? Eric -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:36:09 -0700 From: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com> Subject: Need ONE 235/40 MXX3 Any of you M3ers in Portland or Seattle area got one laying around? My 95 has 2 tires almost down to the wear bars and 2 with 70% tread (evidently the previous owner didn't rotate), and the ubiquitous new spare. I'd like to either swap a worn tire and some $$ for YOUR new spare, or my almost new spare for 2 tires with 60% or better tread. Like to finish wearing-out all the MXX3s before I get something new. thx, dw 95 M3 -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:01:58 -0400 (EDT) From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Power rear vents on M3/2 On Mon, 26 Jun 2000, Chester Wong wrote: > To save that $20, of course! > > > All the parts you need are euro parts. I don't know why they didn't > > leave it on the us version. Well, it would have cost a bit more than that. I think you could have also had them as an option on a U.S. car if you were patient and persistent with BMW NA. -John '96 318is -- john.firestone@nord-com.net -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 12:10:37 -0500 From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations Well if you don't have one of those fancy adapters from the ultimate garage (www.ultimategarage.com) you can use the emergency jack to lift the car up and then slip the stands underneath. Another technique that I've used is to use a bigger peice of wood and just jack the car up by a point very close to the hockey puck (I know probably not the smartest thing to do, flame on....). Andy K. -----Original Message----- From: tetice@att.net To: Andy Korczynski Cc: "'Thomas E. Tic 'E36M3 ' <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: 6/27/00 10:31 AM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations Andy, I use the rubber stopper jack points for my floor jack and thus have difficulty kicking the floor jack out and sliding the jack stand in before the car falls(just kidding):-). Perhaps you could enlighten me as to your complete procedure. What do you use for jack points that leave the rubber stopper points accessible? In the front I jack up by the rubber jack points and then use the "frame rails" to support the jackstands. On previous cars, I used the front crossmember to lift the entire front end. The M3s are so low I can't get my jack in that far (without using ramps). On the rear, I have used the differential to lift the rear end. The M3 may also be too low for this but if not, I am skeptical of lifting this car by the diff. Is that a safe thing on the E36s? Tom Tice > I just use all four rubber stopper jack points on the car (you know, the > ones right under the four little cutouts that hide the hole used to jack the > car with the emergency jacker or better yet a real jack with a modified > head). I didn't buy those special hockey puck add ons to my good ol' Sears > jackstands, instead I just use a small peice of wood to somewhat evenly > distribute the load on the hockey puck. I've done this several times and > the car is very stable. > > Andy K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Thomas E. Tice > To: E36M3 > Sent: 6/26/00 11:39 PM > Subject: [E36M3] Jackstand locations > > Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 00:33:50 -0400 > From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: Jackstand locations > > Gang, > > Tonight, I set out to begin the pre-track event regiment of brake > bleeding etc. I normally jack my car up and use jack stands on all 4 > corners while I perform the ritual and give everything a thorough > inspection. No problem with the new E36 until I looked for a place to > put the jack stands on the rear. I ended up putting them under the > trailing arms but am not too thrilled with this as the arms are not > quite level. What do others do? > > TIA, > Tom Tice > '98 M3/4 Hoping it stays on the stands. > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 13:44:09 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Power rear vents on M3/2 John Firestone wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:01:58 -0400 (EDT) > From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Power rear vents on M3/2 > > On Mon, 26 Jun 2000, Chester Wong wrote: > > > To save that $20, of course! > > > > > All the parts you need are euro parts. I don't know why they didn't > > > leave it on the us version. > > Well, it would have cost a bit more than that. I think you could have also > had them as an option on a U.S. car if you were patient and persistent with > BMW NA. > Just not after Jan/99. I tried and tried and tried but to no avail. :-( Jim E. ************************************************************** Digest Commands UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. **************************************************************
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 11:45:42 -0700 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations > I use the rubber stopper jack points for my floor jack > and thus have difficulty kicking the floor jack out and > sliding the jack stand in before the car falls(just > kidding):-). > > Perhaps you could enlighten me as to your complete > procedure. What do you use for jack points that leave > the rubber stopper points accessible? In the front I > jack up by the rubber jack points and then use > the "frame rails" to support the jackstands. Hi folks, Having gotten my M3/4 up "on all fours" quite often, let me share my experiences :-) The front is too low for my particular jack to get under to the front subframe (the sway bar - stock or UUC :-) - gets in the way). So, I use the stock jack at one front location just to unload the suspension enough to get my floor jack under the car to the subframe (but not enough to actually lift a front tire). This still leaves the "hockey pucks" clear to accept jack stands. Be slow & careful when lowering, to make sure the stock jack contacts the ground properly. I use this method in my garage all the time. Jacking the rear, either separately or after getting the front up on stands, is the same. Put the jack at the rear subframe (some use the differential <shrug>), lift, and place stands at the rear jack points - same "hockey pucks". Viola, car is now safely up on all fours ready for whatever modification or maintenence you have planned. BTW, this is on a stock-suspended M3/4. If your car is lowered, YMMV :-) Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - look ma, no wheels on the ground :-)
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Rear Caliper Bracket Torque - from Miki Haraguchi
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 11:58:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Miki Haraguchi <mharaguchi@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Caliper Bracket Torque Drew, I did the same thing to my rear caliper mounting bolts. I ended up stretching the bolts almost an 1/8" inch due to overtorquing. The proper value for the rears is 50 ft-lbs opposed to 81 for the fronts. As for dealers, there's Peter Pan (San Mateo), Allison (or Dinan, I suppose [Mtn View]), and Stevens Creek (Santa Clara). I believe all the dealers mentioned above will honor the CCA discount. So you finally got around to replacing those rotors we all gave you grief about in Spokane *last March*? ;^) Miki 1997 328is LTW > Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:26:06 PDT > From: "Drew Bamford" <drewbam@hotmail.com> > Subject: Rear Caliper Bracket Torque and Parts in SF Bay > <snip> > Now that I've arrived intact, I'd like to replace both the bolts and the > bracket, and have a couple of questions: > > 1. What is the proper mounting torque for the rear caliper brackets? Is is > possible that I have defective parts? That my torque wrench is woefully > inaccurate? > > 2. Which is the best dealer between SF and San Jose from which to purchase > the necessary parts (bracket and bolts)? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#5. 5sp vs. 6sp - from Holeman, David
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 14:17:01 -0500 From: "Holeman, David" <david.holeman@viaticus.com> Subject: 5sp vs. 6sp Hi, I am a little late on this thread about the 6 speed FWIW. On a 6 speed I believe each gear in the gearbox is smaller in width than the 5 speed. This to fit all the gears into the same housing. The narrow gears are harder to engage and does not synchromesh or at least not as well as the 5 speed. Although you do not have the dreaded 5th to 4th you more options to do the money shift given the shift pattern. David Holeman www.racepad.com
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#6. Seat Weights - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 12:34:13 -0700 From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Seat Weights Does anyone know the seat weights in the M3? I've got the 4-door sport seats with the power option, and I am wondering what they weigh and also what the non-power seats and 2-door Vader seats weigh as a comparison. Is there a significant savings by swapping seats? As usual, AHIGA. -peterg
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help - from Matt Henson
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 12:37:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help Eric, I think that it needs to be tighter is you're seeing a CE light at 3k. You might have to drive for a few days to see it. I usually get it when slowly accelerating from a light, right before a shift. I switched my sensors and I still get the light at 3k and code 1226. I haven't played with the torque yet, though, since it's such a PITA to get in there. It might be worth playing with the torque on the front sensor to try to re-create the problem without having to take off the manifold. Maybe loosen it up and see if it starts setting code 1225 also. The fact that you cleaned it well and torque it properly is a little perplexing (I didn't do either 'cuz I didn't know about it when I did the swap). I have hooked up my scope to the knock sensor lines to verify that they are working so I know it's not a wiring problem. Let me know if you find something and I'll do the same.. -Matt --- Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 09:36:50 -0400 > From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need Knock sensor help > > > > Matt wrote: > > >>>Eric, > The knock sensor is very sensitive to the torque of > the bolt. If it's too loose it will not be > sensitive > enough and sometimes it will set a code when the DME > does a test as you rev past 3k at light throttle. > If > it's too tight then it will think that the car is > always knocking and set a code (just off idle? > Jim?). > You also need to make sure that the metal on the > block > where the KS goes is clean when you install it. > I've > been having the same problems with my car so I've > done > some research.. If anyone has anything else they'd > like to add, please do.. > -Matt<<< > > I thoroughly cleaned the block surface with a > scotchbrite, and torqued the > sensor down with my trusty small 3/8 Crapsman torque > wrench. Even used > Newton/meters for a European flair. If I were to > tighten or loosen the sensor, > which way would I go? It's a pain to get all of > that stuff off to get to the > sensor. Have you been able to solve the problem on > your car? > > Eric > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 12:42:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jackstand locations --- Jim Bassett <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> wrote: > The front is too low for my particular jack to get under to the front > subframe (the sway bar - stock or UUC :-) - gets in the way). So, I use the > stock jack at one front location just to unload the suspension enough to get > my floor jack under the car to the subframe (but not enough to actually lift > a front tire). This still leaves the "hockey pucks" clear to accept jack > stands. Be slow & careful when lowering, to make sure the stock jack > contacts the ground properly. I use this method in my garage all the time. Or you can just use the floor jack and jack on one of the front hockey pucks. Get the corresponding wheel in the air and then lower the car again. This will cause the traction from the tires to keep the car higher than when you just rolled into the garage (since the suspension was extended and can't really go back to its original spot). Now you can easily get to the subframe. This method sure beats the heck out of removing that little cover and have that dangling piece of plastic rub against the rocker panels. Also spares you from having to get to the spare jack in the trunk. You already have the floor jack out, might as well use it. HTH, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Seat Weights - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 12:44:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Seat Weights FYI, I think the Darth Vader seats hog up a lot more space in the back than the sport seats. When I sat in the back of a friend's M3/4 (hi Dave!), there was much more leg room than when I sit in the back of my car (which, thank goodness, happens about .000000000001% of the time ;) This might be crucial if you have a lot of rear passengers... Chester --- Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> wrote: > Does anyone know the seat weights in the M3? I've got the 4-door sport > seats with the power option, and I am wondering what they weigh and also > what the non-power seats and 2-door Vader seats weigh as a comparison. Is > there a significant savings by swapping seats? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Rear caliper bracket torque - from Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com
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Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:44:36 -0400 From: Carlos.F.Lopez@jci.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Rear caliper bracket torque Ron wrote: >Dale recently added my new Lets brake it article to my home page. All the >info you need is there. Connect direct to: >http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/brakes/e36_lets_brake_it.html That is very nicely done. Folks if you're thinking of rebuilding your calipers Ron put up some great pictures of how the boot is supposed to hang on the piston before and after it has been inserted into the caliper. Great job. Carlos 91 M3 PS Gonna be in Seattle next weekend :-) PPS I still need Suzy's email address, could a Jim send it to me please? I don't care if all 5 of ya send it. I need off the list pronto muchachos. >8^)