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#1. Re: [E36M3] Engine Oil Grade - from Roy Kao
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 11:12:56 EDT From: "Roy Kao" <bimmerphile@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Oil Grade > >Hi guys, > >I have a question. I'm due for oil change soon, I'm thinking of using Mobil >1. Which grade should I use 10W30 or 15W50? I seem to remember (correct me >if I'm wrong) from the owner's manual that I should use 15W40 for summer. > >Thanks a lot > >Alex Personally, I use the BMW synthetic oil in the winter months and the Mobil 1 15W50 weight for the summer. I use the slightly heavier oil because I do track the car at a few schools and track events during the summer months. Hope this helps. Roy '99 M3/2 ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#2. What tire to choose?? - from Chris Turrisi
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 11:03:49 -0400 From: Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> Subject: What tire to choose?? Ok gang...I have finally worn out my 245-40 17 Bridgestone SOII Pole Positions after 20,000 miles and I am trying to choose on a which new tire to go with. I will be buying (4) 245-40 17 tires and I have narrowed the choices down to the following: 1. BFG G-Force T/A KD's 2. Pirelli Pzero Asimmetrico's 3. Dunlop SP Sport 9000's 4.Yokohama AVS Sport's I am looking for any information regarding the tread wear, cornering ability, road noise, dry and wet traction and ride comfort (preference in this order). The car is not a daily driver, but I do take long road trips with it. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris T. 97 M3 PS. I don't really want to start a another which tire is better debate, so please respond privately...
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#3. ltw oilpan - from jbergstrom
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:59:45 -0500 From: "jbergstrom" <john@intellectsys.com> Subject: ltw oilpan I have a '95 with the lightweight dual-pickup oil pan installed. I attempted to use my Griot's Oil Extractor to change the oil last night (my first oil change on this car), for those of you not familiar with this, it's basically a vacuum pump that has a hose going down through the dipstick hole into the oilpan. First of all, I checked the oil level before doing anything else, it was below the lowest mark on the dipstick. Uh-oh . . . the car was running a little low . . . then I pumped out the oil, but the oil extractor only sucked out about 5 quarts! At first I thought, "Damn, the previous owner must have let the oil run really low." (8000 miles since the last change) But upon putting in fresh oil, I only got 6 quarts in before the dipstick showed oil up to the top hash mark. I used the extractor on my '97, and was able to get all 7 quarts out every time. I even checked it the first time I used it by loosening the drain plug . . . no oil left in that puppy. So: - Is it possible the oil extractor is not getting all the oil out due to the shape/nature of the ltw oilpan? - What is the capacity of the ltw oilpan? - Since this oilpan was fitted onto the car, is a different dipstick required to accurately measure the oil level? Has anyone compared the dipsticks of a lightweight with a standard M3? I guess I should probably change the oil the old-fashioned way and see how much comes out . . . John '95 M3 ltw-wannabe
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#4. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #308 - from Ken Robb
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 09:06:04 -0700 From: Ken Robb <kenrobb@willisallen.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #308 You use the term "invoice" which I take to be the price the dealer pays for the car. I don't think you mean that you can buy these cars below that. Do you mean to say you can buy them at or below retail list or "Monroney"? dbruce wrote: > Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 01:08:10 -0400 > From: dbruce <dbrucepoip@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #308 > > Why not just fly to another part of the country and buy the car at > invoice or below? > > I know the S4 was on sale for MSRP here in the CT area 2 months after > it was released. I could have gotten one if I had wanted it. > > In areas like Florida you can probably get it below invoice with a > little research. > > Considering the prices they are charging over invoice.....you can fly > to any part of the country, vacation and drive your car home. All > this and you would break even. > > On Wed, 5 Jul 2000 23:56:35 -0500, you wrote: > > >Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 21:43:33 PDT > >From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> > >Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #307 > > > snip > > >around here, people are actually making money by getting on the lists for > >these cars, just to sell them to impatient people. the dealers even support > >it. i called a dealer asking for an S4 a couple seeks ago and he was going > >to read me a list of customers that were selling their newly aquired S4s for > >$10,000 over what they paid for them. > > > >all these hard to get, low production cars are selling for way more then > >sticker. the M3 will be the same. i'll bet people will be paying $75,000 > >for M3s this fall/winter around seattle. > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* -- ----------------------------------------------------- Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
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#5. Oil grade (Engine) and more... - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 12:31:11 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Oil grade (Engine) and more... Hopefully this will clarify some confusion about which oil to use in the S50/52 engines. First, BMW has officially recognized/admitted that our cars do in fact use 7.0 U.S. quarts (with filter). I know some manuals had different numbers - like mine. See TIS 11 11 90 Jan 2000. BMW still stands by bulletin 11 02 92 (3491) Feb. 1992. Basically says: "The use of a high quality engine oil is extremely important for the operation and service life of an engine. Engine Oil Specifications BMW recommends the use of all engine oils that meet or exceed the American Petroleum Institute (API) classifications of SG or the European CCMC classification of G4. Such oils may either be mineral or synthetic-based engine oils. (Combination with diesel oil specifications CD or CE quality classifications are also permitted, e.g. SG/CE, etc.) Note: During the break-in period of a new engine or components of a rebuilt engine, i.e. new bearings, crankshaft, pistons, etc. only a single or multiple grade mineral-based engine oil should be used since a synthetic-based oil has friction-reducing properties which will influence the break-in behavior of an engine. Since synthetic oils often posses improved lubricating properties, they tend to prolong the break-in period of an engine and consequently may lead to increased oil consumption during the break-in period. Therefore, it is not recommended to use a synthetic-based oil for the initial filling of a new or exchange engine. A synthetic-based oil may be used when changing the oil for the first time in accordance with the prescribed oil change intervals. Generally, there is no problem mixing mineral-based and synthetic engine oils with the same viscosity. Oil Change Intervals Under no circumstances should the oil change intervals be extended due to the greater durability of a fully synthetic engine oil. The engine oil and filter should always be changed as per the vehicle's Service Indicator when the "Oil Service" or "Inspection" display appears. Under severe driving conditions, it is recommended to increase the number of oil services. Oil Viscosity For the correct engine oil SAE viscosity/grade selection the BMW Temperature Viscosity Table should be used which is located in Group 11 of the BMW Operating Fluids Manual and also in all BMW vehicle Owner's Manuals. Engine Oil Additives The use of engine oil additives is not recommended and not necessary on BMW engines. Instead, ft is recommended to use one of today's highly advanced brand name lubricating oils conforming to either API classifications SG (or higher) or CCMC classification G4 (or higher)." Bottom line: The viscosity you should use still (and will always) depend on outside temps. Look at your manual. If you are tracking your car then you should use at least a 15W50 etc.... Here is a funny thing about the M5 E39 though: "M5 (S62) Engine Oil Level Checking Procedure: The S62 engine requires a different procedure than conventional practice to check the oil level, which must be followed accurately to give a true indication of the fill level: -- the engine must be at operating temperature -- let the engine idle for at least 15 seconds -- turn the engine off -- wait at least 1 minute for the oil to drain down into the sump -- check the level using the dipstick" Cheers, Jim E.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] What tire to choose?? - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 12:33:11 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] What tire to choose?? Chris, Chris Turrisi wrote: > Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 11:03:49 -0400 > From: Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: What tire to choose?? > > Ok gang...I have finally worn out my 245-40 17 Bridgestone > SOII Pole Positions after 20,000 miles and I am trying to > choose on a which new tire to go with. What's you definition of "worn out"? :-) Jim
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Rollbar saga Was: What Makes A Good Vendor - from Wen Liew
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 09:40:40 PDT From: "Wen Liew" <wwliew@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rollbar saga Was: What Makes A Good Vendor Jim, I think it'd be a crime to take pictures of Katerina in various stages of undress ;-). But, I will stop by later today or tomorrow to make sure the guys are not manhandling her. I work about 2 miles south of TC Kline. Wen >Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 22:21:25 -0700 >From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> >Subject: Rollbar saga Was: What Makes A Good Vendor > >Unfortunately, its a long ride and they aren't open on Saturday normally >so I won't be able to take any in-progress pics. Maybe someone from the >north side of LA could stop by and make sure my baby is doing ok..... > ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#8. 95 M3 H&R Springs - from Wentz, Don
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 09:41:51 -0700 From: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com> Subject: 95 M3 H&R Springs Full set of H&R 'OE Sport' springs - less than 7K miles - $200 delivered Please reply off list. dw
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#9. Re: [E36M3] ltw oilpan - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 12:49:35 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] ltw oilpan John, > So: > > - Is it possible the oil extractor is not getting all the oil out due to the > shape/nature of the ltw oilpan? > - What is the capacity of the ltw oilpan? > - Since this oilpan was fitted onto the car, is a different dipstick > required to accurately measure the oil level? Has anyone compared the > dipsticks of a lightweight with a standard M3? > The dipstick (11 43 1 404 836) is specific to that oil pan as is the guide tube (11 43 1 404 746). I don't know the capacity but here's an interesting tid bit from BMW" "Oil Pan Dual Pick-up Oil Pump Comment: Suited and needed for track use only and for extended high lateral acceleration. Only use these parts for racing and check every 2500 miles. If installed, check the hydraulic valve adjusters for wear on the tappet surface every 2500 miles. Installation of this oil pan or oil pump voids the warranty. Installation should be delayed until the completion of the vehicle's break-in process (approx. 1250 miles)." Cheers, Jim E.
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Engine Oil Grade - from Robert Chay
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 09:58:24 -0700 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Engine Oil Grade I'm using Castrol Syntec 5w50 and haven't burned any oil. Even on the track and auto-x's. I tried their 10w30 once but noticed lower gas mileage (could've been coincidence) so I went back to 5w50. -Bobby > -----Original Message----- > > >Hi guys, > >I have a question. I'm due for oil change soon, I'm thinking of >using Mobil >1. Which grade should I use 10W30 or 15W50? I seem to remember >(correct me >if I'm wrong) from the owner's manual that I should use 15W40 for summer. > >Thanks a lot > >Alex
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#11. RE: [E36M3] front underbody plastic - from Robert Chay
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 09:58:58 -0700 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] front underbody plastic I replaced mine with the JTD piece a few months back. It fits perfectly and haven't had a problem since. I also replaced the fender liners and put some hard rubber washers between the screw and the fender liner to put less stress on the mounting points. For the jack points, I lost 2 of them and when I replaced them, I used silicone adhesive and they haven't come off yet (knock on wood). -Bobby '98 M3 > -----Original Message----- > From: Paul Agustin [mailto:agustin@iaxs.net] > Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 7:27 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] front underbody plastic > > > Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 09:25:15 -0500 > From: Paul Agustin <agustin@iaxs.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] front underbody plastic > > Sean: > It depends on how many of those under body panels you replace. The > most expensive one if I remember correctly was $70. I replaced the > large panel as well as the small one that fits up inside of the larger > one. I also replaced the inner fender wells because they were starting > to crack around the screws. I was missing a jack point puck, and also > replaced one of the front corner abs plastic pieces underneath. All > totaled I ended up spending around $175 to $200 on the parts, but if you > just did the two pieces that are in the middle you'll fall under the > $100 mark. > > Paul > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >