E36M3 #315

Friday, July 07, 2000 00:17:37

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: [E36M3] Thud Sound from the Differential - from Robert Chay
#2. Harness Bar - from rossb77@juno.com
#3. Aftermarket M3 items for sale - from Tom Loukas
#4. Group Seat Cover Purchase - from Thomas E. Tice
#5. Re: [E36M3] Oil grade (Engine) and more... - from Roy Kao
#6. Insurance for '95 M3 - from Michael Ting
#7. Glovebox rattles - from Michael Ting
#8. Re: 10k miles without changing?! - from LHassig@aol.com
#9. Re: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles - from Suzy Kraft
#10. UUC Short Shifter Installation - from Stan Shaw III
#11. RE: Thud Sound from the Differential - from Aswtguy2c@aol.com

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#1. RE: [E36M3] Thud Sound from the Differential - from Robert Chay
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:17:25 -0700 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Thud Sound from the Differential I had the same problem. It was a loose diff mounting bolt. I ignored it too long and one of the bolts sheared off and I had to get towed to the dealer. The upside was that they fixed it under warranty :) Get it checked out. -Bobby '98 M3/2 > -----Original Message----- > From: Jason Sarich [mailto:sarich_m3@prontomail.com] > Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 5:57 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Thud Sound from the Differential > > Ladies and Gentlemen, > > I have a sound coming from my rear end that I have only heard when I > have something heavy loose in the trunk. If I have it in 1st gear > and rev up without shifting, and just let off the gas the rear end > thuds, then I give it gas and it thuds again. In the morning when I > put the car in reverse and pull out of the carport, the same thud. > What it sounds like is I am missing teeth in the gears and when their > is pressure on them (accelerating, or decelerating) there isn't a > problem but when the in between is where their is no pressure. > > Has anyone else had this problem? What is the fix? > > Thanks alot, > > Jason Sarich > >

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#2. Harness Bar - from rossb77@juno.com
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:40:44 -0500 From: rossb77@juno.com Subject: Harness Bar I'm looking to buy a harness bar for my M3. Does anyone have a used on for sale? Are there any alternatives to the HMS bar at $400.00? Thanks Ross Brown 95 SC M3

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#3. Aftermarket M3 items for sale - from Tom Loukas
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 22:02:04 -0400 From: Tom Loukas <tcl53@earthlink.net> Subject: Aftermarket M3 items for sale Thanks to everyone on the list for the great information on the M3. Having just sold my 99 M3, I'm offering the following items for sale at half the retail price to those willing to pick them up in the Northern Virginia area (items are new and never used): ITG Panel Filter for Stock Air box UUC Rob Knob 2 brushed aluminum shift knob with BMW M shift pattern insert UUC Clutch Stop UUC Tranny mount enforcers Slightly used item: Bentley Service manual (1/3 retail price) Please reply by private email as I am about to unsubscribe from the list. Thanks, Tom Loukas Chantilly, Virginia PS: The UUC exhaust has already been sold

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#4. Group Seat Cover Purchase - from Thomas E. Tice
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 22:24:44 -0400 From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Group Seat Cover Purchase It has been requested/suggested that we organize another group purchase of seat covers. I have contacted Supreme Seat Savers of Florida and found that we can purchase seat covers at a volume price of $109 including embroidery of the M color accent stripes. This is approximately a $20 savings. What I need in order to move forward on this is to hear from 15 of you who are REALLY REALLY committed to purchasing the seat covers. Please e-mail me personally if you are interested. Supreme can accommodate any of the M3 style seats. This includes Darth Vader style and regular E36 sport seat (Sedan) in manual and electric versions. If you are interested in seat covers for any other BMW please let me know also as we can likely include this in the count (as long as they currently have a pattern for the particular model seat). I am also trying to convince them to make a cover for the E39 540i sport seat and would like to hear from any of you that also own a 540i Sport that are interested in covers. Supreme claims that I am the first one to request covers for this particular car. If you would like to see photos of the M3 covers check out the Supreme web site (www.seatsavers.com) or I can e-mail you a photo of covers with M stripes. Please let me know your interest ASAP. I plan to get a final count in about 1 week and will determine at that time if we can move forward. Thanks, Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Oil grade (Engine) and more... - from Roy Kao
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 23:08:27 EDT From: "Roy Kao" <bimmerphile@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil grade (Engine) and more... >Note: During the break-in period of a new engine or components of a rebuilt >engine, i.e. new >bearings, crankshaft, pistons, etc. only a single or multiple grade >mineral-based engine oil should be >used since a synthetic-based oil has friction-reducing properties which >will >influence the break-in >behavior of an engine. >Since synthetic oils often posses improved lubricating properties, they >tend to >prolong the break-in >period of an engine and consequently may lead to increased oil consumption >during the break-in period. >Therefore, it is not recommended to use a synthetic-based oil for the >initial >filling of a new or >exchange engine. Hold on a cotton pickin' minute! If what Jim said is true then all '99 and newer BMW owners are in trouble! According to their specs, all '99 and newer BMWs came FACTORY FILLED with the 5W40 synthetic; and yes, this includes my '99 M3. Porsche also uses Mobil 1 as factory filled oil for all their cars off the assembly line. How can this be?! Unless they fill the cars with mineral-based oil at the factory and then switches to synthetic at the first oil change? I've heard before that synthetic oil prolongs the break-in period but now it really doesn't make sense... >Here is a funny thing about the M5 E39 though: > >"M5 (S62) Engine Oil Level Checking Procedure: >The S62 engine requires a different procedure than conventional practice to >check the oil level, which >must be followed accurately to give a true indication of the fill level: >-- the engine must be at operating temperature >-- let the engine idle for at least 15 seconds >-- turn the engine off >-- wait at least 1 minute for the oil to drain down into the sump >-- check the level using the dipstick" Echoing someone else's post earlier about the oil. Our club recently held an M5 walk-through at a local dealer and the oil shown to us was the Castrol Synthetic 10W60 racing oil. I think the poster mentioned that it costs $15 U.S. per litre (or quart) and the local dealer quoted us $25 Canadian per litre. Oh well, small price to pay for 400 bhp I suppose... Roy '99 M3/2 ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com

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#6. Insurance for '95 M3 - from Michael Ting
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:18:17 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: Insurance for '95 M3 Can anybody recommend a good insurance for a '95 M3 Auto? And, I'm wondering if you guys have a good estimate of how much the payments will be? It'll be single driver, 21 yrs, with 1 speeding tickets, and 2 insurance claims in the past 3 yrs. Thanks. Michael Ting --------------------

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#7. Glovebox rattles - from Michael Ting
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:22:28 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: Glovebox rattles One more question guys. :) My glovebox cover (what's the proper name for it?? the thing that opens/closes on the glovebox) is rattling on uneven road. The cover won't close as tight as new, and I'm guessing that this is the reason for the rattles. How can I fix this rattle? Thanks. Michael Ting --------------------

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#8. Re: 10k miles without changing?! - from LHassig@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 23:35:38 EDT From: LHassig@aol.com Subject: Re: 10k miles without changing?! Dave, you wrote: << Has anyone had the oil that old analyzed by a professional? >> I had mine (Mobil 1 15W50) tested after the amber light came on. The analysis found some trace minerals in the oil--nothing out of the ordinary. More interesting was the deterioration of the Total Base Number (TBN), a measure of the oil's ability to neutralize acids that (I presume) are byproducts of combustion. At the time of the test, TBN was found to be 7.2 (units not specified). So what? I telephoned Mobil and spoke to an oil tech who told me that Mobil 1 starts out with a TBN around 12 and that they recommend changing the oil no later than the point at which TBN falls to half its original value. My conclusion is that the service lights are adequately conservative as far as the oil is concerned. On the filtration front, the picture is less clear. So filters fail by letting more crud through? If so, then I think we're OK. Otherwise, higher-than-expected trace elements in the oil would show up in the analysis. If filters fail by clogging up and letting less of everything through--including oil.... Well, that's another story. I imagine that if BMW can get the oil-change interval right, then they probably specify a filter that will last as long as the oil. Which might make filters other than OEM a little chancy. I once subscribed to a list like this for my Taurus SHO. A Ford engine control engineer, who raced his SHO, was a frequent contributor. He investigated aftermarket oil filters for that car and found that all but one were substantially inferior to the Ford Motorcraft filter in the rate of oil flow they permitted. I mention this only to point out that just because a filter fits your car, it doesn't necessarily mean it's doing a good job. And figuring that out can be a significant research undertaking. YMMV Lee Hassig (lhassig@aol.com) '95 M3

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles - from Suzy Kraft
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Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 22:37:33 -0500 From: Suzy Kraft <suekraft@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles Glovebox rattle? Rolling the windows down and turning the stereo up always works for me. Suzy Michael Ting wrote: > > Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:22:28 -0500 > From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> > Subject: Glovebox rattles > > One more question guys. :) > My glovebox cover (what's the proper name for it?? the thing that > opens/closes on the glovebox) is rattling on uneven road. > > The cover won't close as tight as new, and I'm guessing that this is the > reason for the rattles. > > How can I fix this rattle? > > Thanks. > > Michael Ting > -------------------- > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************

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#10. UUC Short Shifter Installation - from Stan Shaw III
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 01:09:56 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw III" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: UUC Short Shifter Installation I am attempting to install a UUC Short Shifter in my '96 M3, and am stuck at the point where I need to remove the pin from the carrier. I have already spent quite a bit of time (at least an hour) trying to lever it out with a screwdriver, with no visible progress. I can't angle the screwdriver due to the width of the transmission tunnel. I decided to try and install the ERK without removing the carrier, but can't believe someone would be able to hold the allen bolts provided and screw them in to the ERK when it is in the carrier (while the carrier is already mounted). I can hold the screws in position, but they are so short they will not reach the ERK when I grip them in my fingers. Am I missing something obvious here? It would seem simplier to drop the driveshaft, or whatever. I can't imagine getting the pin back in, if it is this difficult to get out... This has been done a zillion times already by others, right? HELP!!!! Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0407 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/

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#11. RE: Thud Sound from the Differential - from Aswtguy2c@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 01:13:17 EDT From: Aswtguy2c@aol.com Subject: RE: Thud Sound from the Differential Jason, It sounds like you have a broken differential bolt. If its under warranty, have the dealer check it out and they can repair it. I know a person that had the same problem and was covered under the vehicle warranty (lucky Bobby). Unfortunately, this happened to me and all my diff. bolts broke and I had a constant grinding noise. The tech had to remove the diff. and tap out the sheered off bolts and install new ones. Cost was $250 only because mines wasn't covered under warranty due to an engine over-rev. So whatever you do, don't put to much load on the drivetrain and drive like a very old lady, or you can call roadside assistance to bring it to the dealer. I had the same symptoms as you for 2 days till the bolts broke. Jonathan Caldito

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