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#1.Factory M3 Forged Wheels - from Crumpley Jr, Robert E
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 07:18:08 -0500 From: "Crumpley Jr, Robert E" <CRUMPLRE@bp.com> Subject: <FS> Factory M3 Forged Wheels Set of four factory 7.5/8.5 forged wheels (LTW style) with 'polished' finish. One wheel has a few paint chips, but not what I'd call curb rash at all. The other three are mint. Perfectly round, no vibrations, wobbles, etc (thanks to good Texas roads). Included is a set of Falken GR-B tires with less than 2000 miles. Digital pictures available. $1700 plus shipping. Will not separate, haggle, etc.
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#2. First Autocross this weekend - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 05:32:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: First Autocross this weekend Hi Group! I will be attending my first autocross this weekend with the Windy City club at the Tire Rack and would like to get some data points regarding tire pressure. The car is a 95 M3 essentially stock with x-brace and R4S pads. The tires are AVS Sports with about 8k miles on them (no real visible wear, very deep tread still) on stock wheels. I do not have an air tank yet so I am not sure if I can adjust the pressure at the event. Also can anyone recommend a quality air pressure gauge and where to purchase it? Do I remember correctly that someone may have a list of things to bring to an event? Private responses encouraged if the info is repetitive for the list. TIA Mike Turgeon BMW CCA #166866 95 M3 Avus __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Kumho track pressure - from John Van Houten
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 07:44:46 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho track pressure Those pressures seem a bit on the high side to me. I usually start at around 32psi and adjust from there as the day goes on. Hot pressures end up at around 42psi. According to Tire Rack's "Care and Feeding of the Kumho V700 Victoracer", they recommend hot pressures from 35-40psi, slightly higher for heavier cars--like the pig E36M3 ;-). Note that my car has a very modified suspension and I run on 255/40-17 Kumhos on 17x9 wheels. John www.netcom.com/~jvanhout/bmw/bmw.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 7:56 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Kumho track pressure > Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 17:50:54 -0700 > From: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Kumho track pressure > > Vince wrote: > >Well, I finally corded the G-Forces and I just have received a set of Kumho > R > >compounds from the Tirerack (225/45/17). This is the first time I will be > >running the Kumhos at the track and was curious what people have been using > for > >cold and hot tire pressure in a 99 M3? > > What an EXCELLENT question. I just tried mine at Ptln Intl raceway the 4th. > Brand new Kumho V700 225/45 on stock 7.5 rims. > First run started at 36 lbs all four, came in at LR - 49, LF - 48, RR - 46, > RF - 43, > > Final run started at 38 lbs all four, came in at LR - 51, LF - 49, RR - 48, > RF - 45, > > The right front was a little 'melted' looking at the outside tread, but all > the tires seemed to have decent wear across them and no 'rolling over' on > the sidewalls. > > Am I just a leadfoot and pushing them too hard? > What would be their recommended initial pressures? > I've NEVER experienced anything near a 13 lb pressure increase in a tire at > the track! > thx, dw > 95 M3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#4. RE: Squeeking Clutch pedal fixed. - from Anthony Le
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Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 08:54:43 -0500 From: Anthony Le <anthony.le@wcom.com> Subject: RE: Squeeking Clutch pedal fixed. I did the same thing. The hardest part is recompressing the clutch return spring, but I think the job would be easier if the entire mounting assembly can be removed. So far, the clutch has been gerbil (squeak) free for about a year. --- anthony 95 M3 > Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 16:30:22 -0700 (PDT) > From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> > Subject: Squeeking Clutch pedal fixed. > > Hey Gang, > Sorry if this is already common knowledge but I recall > someone asking about a fix for a gerbil-infested > clutch pedal. My '95 had been squeeking for months so > I finally decided to fix it. I'd heard that spraying > WD-40 on the spring would solve the problem. I > decided to remove the spring and check it out. Well, > in my case the problem was _not_ the spring. It was > the actual bushing, way up at the top of the pedal. I > removed the whole thing and genreously applied some > thick grease to the pins and bushings. I put it back > together voila - no more squeek. > > HTH someone, > Matt >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles (Door Handles) - from GRCouture@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 09:56:12 EDT From: GRCouture@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles (Door Handles) In a message dated 7/7/2000 8:17:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dave@spragg.com writes: << They also fixed the nearly impossible to open from the outside and hard to open from the inside passenger door handle that seems so common on E36's (same happened to my 94 325is twice). >> TELL me about it - what a POOR design on BMW's end! I've had my M3 in twice for impossible-to-open door handles. A few times, I had to enter in from the passenger side - which weren't all that swift either. Finally, they showed me what to do - a little lube directly on the door's latch (the one on the door that rests in the door jam - no "getting to it" labor involved) solved all my problems. I lube them monthly now, and they're like butter. Gregg '99 M3
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#6. Re: [E36M3] UUC Short Shifter Installation - from Stan Shaw III
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 10:08:09 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw III" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Short Shifter Installation Thanks to all for the suggestions, and moral support... Chester's suggestion was what worked for me, I hammered a screwdriver under the clip, then I was able to hammer a second screwdriver to push the clip into the release position. I was not heavy with the hammer, and the clip could be reused if needed. '96 M3 (Daily Commuter, Part Time Track Car today, tomorrow?) PF90s LTW Wheels Yoko Track Tires UUC Sway Bars UUC Strut Brace UUC Clutch Stop UUC Tranny Mount Enforcer UUC Short Shifter (50% installed) BMW E30 Transmission Mounts BMW X-Brace JTD Rear Shock Mounts JTD Splash Pan JTD Brake Cooling (still in box) In queue for: Jim Conforti Shark Injector Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0407 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles (Door Handles) - from dave spragg
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 10:32:10 -0400 From: "dave spragg" <dave@spragg.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles (Door Handles) Thanks for the tip Greg, that sounds good. Of course it's a cheap ($0) way to get my car lightly washed and completely vacuumed while I suck down coffee and donuts but I would rather not waste the time at the dealer. On a related note I think the door handles are the crudest design of any car in the class. I always think of it when I open the doors on econo cars that have a super smooth soft feel to them. Even properly lubed the E36 handles feel like a piece of metal is scraping along and then pushing another piece of rough metal. :) Maybe they were trying to design in some "quirkiness" so as not to be called boring for being perfect like Honda/Acura so often is. Dave -----Original Message----- From: GRCouture@aol.com [mailto:GRCouture@aol.com] Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 9:57 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles (Door Handles) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 09:56:12 EDT From: GRCouture@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles (Door Handles) In a message dated 7/7/2000 8:17:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dave@spragg.com writes: << They also fixed the nearly impossible to open from the outside and hard to open from the inside passenger door handle that seems so common on E36's (same happened to my 94 325is twice). >> TELL me about it - what a POOR design on BMW's end! I've had my M3 in twice for impossible-to-open door handles. A few times, I had to enter in from the passenger side - which weren't all that swift either. Finally, they showed me what to do - a little lube directly on the door's latch (the one on the door that rests in the door jam - no "getting to it" labor involved) solved all my problems. I lube them monthly now, and they're like butter. Gregg '99 M3 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#8. Paint Repair in CT - from Robert_Manger@mastercard.com
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 10:44:01 -0400 From: Robert_Manger@mastercard.com Subject: Paint Repair in CT fellow enthusiasts, I am looking to have the front bumper and grill resprayed on my 95 avus blue m3. Does anyone from the list have any recomendations for this in CT? thanks, rob-rock-chipped
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#9. Subject: Thud Sound from the Differential - from BobTunnell@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:12:45 EDT From: BobTunnell@aol.com Subject: Subject: Thud Sound from the Differential Check the bolts that secure the diff to the diff carrier and body. They tend to loosen up after lots of spirited driving -- especially the "ears" at the rear (57 ft/lb). Hopefully your thud is easier to solve than Miki's... yikes! --BT
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 08:34:50 -0700 From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Glovebox rattles > Glovebox rattle? Rolling the windows down and turning the stereo up > always works for me. I love Suzy's answer anytime someone complains about some squeak/squish/chirp/rattle or other car noise (translated by me into more clear language): "Blast your stereo, punch the throttle, and quit your whining." ;)
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Oil grade (Engine) and more... - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 11:43:20 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil grade (Engine) and more... Roy Kao wrote: Hold on a cotton pickin' minute! If what Jim said is true then all '99 and newer BMW owners are in trouble! According to their specs, all '99 and newer BMWs came FACTORY FILLED with the 5W40 synthetic; and yes, this includes my '99 M3. Porsche also uses Mobil 1 as factory filled oil for all their cars off the assembly line. How can this be?! Unless they fill the cars with mineral-based oil at the factory and then switches to synthetic at the first oil change? I've heard before that synthetic oil prolongs the break-in period but now it really doesn't make sense... No no no. THe E36 S50/52 did NOT come with synthetic oil from the factory. Read: Starting with the introduction of the 1999 3 Series (E46), BMW introduced an extended oil change interval of approximately 15,000 miles depending on engine operating conditions. The engine oil change interval of approximately 15,000 miles has been carried over to all 2000 BMW models except the M coupe and M roadster. To coincide with the increased oil change interval, BMW also introduced "BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil" (originally named "Longlife"). Jim E.