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#1. Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from Stan Shaw III
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 11:10:56 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw III" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Help on Autocross Setup for M3 I autocrossed my '96 M3 for the first time yesterday. I used the following setup: UUC strut brace BMW X-brace UUC sway bars Front setttings furtherest from ends (too stiff for autocross?) Rear settings closest to ends Yokohama Advans (these are well worn, almost all tread is gone) 38lbs cold front and rear JTD Rear shock mounts with "hers" bushings. PF90s Braking didn't seem to be an issue, although I wondered if the lack of warmup would be an issue. UUC Short Shifter Since you only shift from 1st to 2nd once, this wasn't an issue This was my first time in an autocross. I do have track experience with this car at Lime Rock and Watkins Glen. I found the understeer to be the biggest problem, when attempting to negotiate an tight elipse section. Initially the understeer was a problem on some other sections, but I found by increasing the radius of my turns, I was able to keep the speed higher. I am curious as to what others suggest I can do to this setup, or if it is simply a matter of my driving needing improvement (which is definitely true regardless). I may take it again next week, so long as the tires are ok.... Thanks! Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0407 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 11:33:17 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 One thing which I did this past weekend at an autocross, and liked quite a lot: make sure when you get to the autocross you don't have much gas - 1/4 tank or so. Ya, you might have to plan your gas fuelling with regards to your autocross schedule (true sign of an autocross junkie). Remove the spare tire. These two lightened the rear end a good bit, I found the rear end would rotate around much quicker this way. Not sure about the sway bars, my suspension is bone stock except for an x-brace. Regarding understeer, ya gotta slow down before the turn. Autocrosses frequently involve nasty tight turns which our M3's are not particularly well suited for. Slow down for them, and try and accellerate through them (but watch for the return of understeer), and power through whatever sweepers are there. Those are the fun ones! Andrej '97 M3 > I autocrossed my '96 M3 for the first time yesterday. I used the following > setup: > UUC strut brace > BMW X-brace > UUC sway bars > Front setttings furtherest from ends (too stiff for autocross?) > Rear settings closest to ends > Yokohama Advans (these are well worn, almost all tread is gone) > 38lbs cold front and rear > JTD Rear shock mounts with "hers" bushings. > PF90s > Braking didn't seem to be an issue, although I wondered if the lack of > warmup would be an issue. > UUC Short Shifter > Since you only shift from 1st to 2nd once, this wasn't an issue > This was my first time in an autocross. I do have track experience with > this car at Lime Rock and Watkins Glen. > I found the understeer to be the biggest problem, when attempting to > negotiate an tight elipse section. Initially the understeer was a problem > on some other sections, but I found by increasing the radius of my turns, I > was able to keep the speed higher. > I am curious as to what others suggest I can do to this setup, or if it is > simply a matter of my driving needing improvement (which is definitely true > regardless). > I may take it again next week, so long as the tires are ok....
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#3. Mail order parts? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:14:11 -0700 From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Mail order parts? Who do folks recommend for mail order BMW parts? I need some miscellaneous small suspension bits... I'm located in SF, so West Coast is preferred. Thanks! -p
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#4. Re: I was rear ended - from Andy Chi
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:35:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Andy Chi <m3flyer@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: I was rear ended Chester, As a person who was rear ended THREE times in two different M3's, and who also has a few bodyshop clients, here's my advice. 1. The damage is probably a hell of a lot mroe severe than you think. Have them remove the bumper, check that there's no scuff mark on the floor pan, muffler (be on the look out for the check engine light), check that the rear two frame rails weren't pushed in AT ALL (any sign of push-in's and you are legally entitled to two brand spanking new frame rails). Check the rear two pastic covers that are held by one centering screws each, if they are not centered at all, in all likelihood there's some damage to the frame rail. Don't have them fix the bumper, DEMAND A NEW BUMPER. Most adjusters would try to weasel out paying for the bumper by having them apply some kind of epoxy material than sand/paint the bumper. But the next time, even one small tap will wrinkle the entire area where epoxy/paint was applied. 2. You are also leaglly entitled to a rental car of equal value. Again, most adjuster would try to weasel out of it. The repair and the rental can be done without going thru your own insurance. And you should also DEMAND that they setup direct bill for the rental car. There should be no money coming out of your pocket, stand your ground. 3. Rear end, as pointed out by several posters, is automatically her fault. NO if's and but's about it. And while they could claim you brake too short, it is exceedingly difficult to prove in court. And again, most pi lawyer would be happy to take on the case for you, so gently remind the rear ender of the fact. Good luck, Andy 98 M3 black/black And yes, unfortunately, most cars on the road have no brakes. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 12:52:09 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 Stan Stan Shaw III wrote: > Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 11:10:56 -0400 > From: "Stan Shaw III" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> > Subject: Help on Autocross Setup for M3 > > I autocrossed my '96 M3 for the first time yesterday. I used the following > setup: > UUC strut brace > BMW X-brace > UUC sway bars > Front setttings furtherest from ends (too stiff for autocross?) > Rear settings closest to ends You are set up for max understeer. Go to middle hole in front and full stiff rear. Always work in stages. Cheers, Jim E.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:28:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 --- nabli@attglobal.net wrote: > > UUC sway bars > > Front setttings furtherest from ends (too stiff for autocross?) > > Rear settings closest to ends > > You are set up for max understeer. Go to middle hole in front and full stiff > rear. I thought he was setup for max oversteer. Furthest from the ends (closest to the pivot point) means least stiff in the front and closest to the ends (furthest from the pivot point) means full stiff for the rear, no? This stuff always gets too confusing! =) Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#7. RE: Accident Strategies - from Richard Buchanan
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:40:54 -0700 From: Richard Buchanan <rbuchanan@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: Accident Strategies I would avoid subrogation if you could. Your insurance company will NEVER pursue another insurance company for a diminution of value claim for fear they will return the "favor" on the next claim. This is the difference in the value of your vehicle repaired vs. a similar vehicle w/o accident damage. The accident will show up on a VIN search (here in CA it is required by law to report accidents above certain $ amount or if ANY injury takes place), so even if repaired perfectly your car is now "damaged goods". I had my wife's Jeep when I was rear ended. The car was 3 months old and they had to replace the frame on the back 50% of the car. After 4 months of hassle, AAA settled for $8,500 in repairs, 4 months of a similar vehicle rental (don't let them put you in a Toyota Tercel), and $7,000 in diminution of value. The hilarious side of it all, I finally ended up negotiating with the branch manager because the original AAA agent had "never heard of" a diminution of value claim, and he said it would have been far cheaper for AAA to just buy me a new Jeep and sell the old one themselves. Lesson learned. Rich Buchanan
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:47:35 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 \___________/ Furthest from the ends means the closest holes to the horizontal bar above. This is stiffer. "Closest to the ends" means the holes furthest away from the horizontal bar. This is softer. Jim E. Chester Wong wrote: > --- nabli@attglobal.net wrote: > > > UUC sway bars > > > Front setttings furtherest from ends (too stiff for autocross?) > > > Rear settings closest to ends > > > > You are set up for max understeer. Go to middle hole in front and full stiff > > rear. > > I thought he was setup for max oversteer. Furthest from the ends (closest to > the pivot point) means least stiff in the front and closest to the ends > (furthest from the pivot point) means full stiff for the rear, no? > > This stuff always gets too confusing! =) > > Chester > > ===== > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! > http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#9. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #324 - from Steve Sharp
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 11:23:22 -0700 From: Steve Sharp <steve.sharp@xilinx.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #324 > Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 23:21:16 EDT > From: PDumond21@aol.com > Subject: Airbag warning light > > I was wondering if anyone has had any problems with their airbag warning > light coming on. I have a '97 M3 and my airbag warning light came on today > and I'm not quite sure why. The only thing I did today was take out my > driver's side seat. I don't see how this would have anything to do with the > airbag warning light. Is there anyone else out there with this problem? I > have looked in the Bentley's manual and it says to bring the car to an > authorized dealer to have it looked at. Is there anything I can do to > correct the problem? I really didn't do anything out of the ordinary except > take out my seat. Thanks. > > Paul My '97 M3/2 did the same thing a week ago. Called two local dealers and they both said it could be any number of things from a "seatbelt sensor" to a computer fault (in the airbag computer under the rear seat). Both said to get it checked out pronto, but that it's "probably" safe to drive. Luckily it's still under the 4 year warranty for me. Steve S.
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#10. Re: Shims for neg camber --need help - from Jones, John
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:15:26 -0400 From: "Jones, John" <JJones@INTERGEN.com> Subject: Re: Shims for neg camber --need help Bob wrote: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Can anyone point me in the right direction on a write-up on the procedure to add the washers (shims) to the front suspension for a little more negative camber. ... Was told these are Grade #8, 7/16 ID (12mm ID) washers. Should they be stainless steel, zinc, or aluminum? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Bob, Though it goes against my policy of all WOB, all the time, here is the skinny on shims: Procedure: - Take off wheel - Remove large bolts at the bottom of the thingee at the bottom of the strut tube (bolts are fore and aft, pointing along the axle line) - Slightly loosen the hinge bolt above the bearings (about 6" above the bolts you removed) - Use a screwdriver to separate the thingee from the hub - Insert shims between the thingee and the hub - Replace the bolts you took out WITH BOLTS OF THE PROPER LENGTH, with Loctite (I don't know the torque spec. But it's pretty damn tight) - Tighten the hinge bolt. - Go DIRECTLY to your favorite independent BMW shop and drop $1xx on an alignment Issues: - Your track tires may not fit without spacers anymore. The top of the wheel is moved closer to the strut tube by this procedure. - This is probably not as good for the alignment of your suspension bits as swapping strut mounts or camber plates. What to get: - Something a hellofalot smaller than 12mm, unless you want the tops of your tires to touch each other. Below is a table to calc how big a shim to use based on the amount of adjustment you want. Adjustment/Shim size ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 0.5 - 1.16 1.0 - 2.63 1.5 - 4.00 2.0 - 5.44 2.5 - 6.81 Yes, I know it is non-linear. I got the data points from someone else (I can't remember who) when I did the mod myself. I found it to be accurate within the range I was using (2.5 - 4 mm) - Get bolts that are long enough (at least size of old bolt plus shim size) Where to get it: - Easy way = Call Korman and spend $20 for $10 of hardware - you will get what they sell (4mm shims, and longer bolts, if I remember) - Hard way = Call Steve D'G and specify what you want - That way you can correct for uneven camber from the factory. Disclaimer - You do it, you kill yourself, your problem. YMMV. Feel free to supercede any of the above with whatever a real mechanic tells you. Hope that helps, John Jones 98 M3-4 (w/ fixed camber plates, the ultimate fix)