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#1. Camber shims - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Mon Jul 10 15:54:14 2000 From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: Camber shims folks, I came up with that chart for shims and camber. If you use 7/16" SAE flat washers, they usually come around 0.040" thick. Each one washer you place on each bottom strut bolt will yield approximately an ADDITIONAL 1/2 degree negative. You can use as many as you like, as long as you use the proper bolts (grade& length) Torque these grade 8.8 (or better) to 80 ft-lbs. When using LOTS of washers for lots of camber, make sure you check the tire & rim clearance to the strut and spring perch. A few MM is all you need for clearance, if it gets too close, call the TireRack for some hub spacers. Also, when using the washers, this will change the front toe. The front will TOE-OUT. For each washer that you add, an approx. 1/8 turn on the toe-adjusters for each side will bring the toe-in close enough for you to drive to an alignment shop to get it measured correctly. bob Adjustment/Shim size ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 0.5 - 1.16 1.0 - 2.63 1.5 - 4.00 2.0 - 5.44 2.5 - 6.81 Yes, I know it is non-linear. I got the data points from someone else (I can't remember who) when I did the mod myself. I found it to be accurate within the range I was using (2.5 - 4 mm) - Get bolts that are long enough (at least size of old bolt plus shim size) Where to get it: - Easy way = Call Korman and spend $20 for $10 of hardware - you will get what they sell (4mm shims, and longer bolts, if I remember) - Hard way = Call Steve D'G and specify what you want - That way you can correct for uneven camber from the factory. Disclaimer - You do it, you kill yourself, your problem. YMMV. Feel free to supercede any of the above with whatever a real mechanic tells you. Hope that helps, John Jones 98 M3-4 (w/ fixed camber plates, the ultimate fix) ************************************************************** Digest Commands UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. ************************************************************** >>
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#2. RE: Accident Strategies - from Keith Wertman
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 11:56:58 -0700 From: "Keith Wertman" <m3@mybimmer.com> Subject: RE: Accident Strategies <snip> I would avoid subrogation if you could. Your insurance company will NEVER pursue another insurance company for a diminution of value claim for fear they will return the "favor" on the next claim. <snip> This is not true. My spouse (who is an auto adjuster for a large company) regularly goes after other companies in subrogation. Insurance companies don't screw around. She has even seen them go after their own policy holders that had very expensive accidents. When the insurance doesn't cover the whole repair they will gladly setup payment plans to get back the necessary money. Always look at your policies. Agents often don't know everything and you need to make sure that your coverages are in your best interest. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Keith W. 99 M3/2 TechnoViolet (Yes, She wanted this color) 97 Z3 Turquoise (Yes, I wanted this color) 97 F650 Black (We couldn't decide so we took it) --------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------ Bimmerphiles, Bimmerheads and Bimmer Enthusiasts Unite! Get your FREE mybimmer email address at http://www.mybimmer.com/
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#3. You were rear-ended - from Jones, John
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:49:42 -0400 From: "Jones, John" <JJones@INTERGEN.com> Subject: You were rear-ended Chester, I recommend that you chalk this up to the door dings, bent rims (hopefully, not too many) and high miles associated with driving a nice car in the city. By your description, it sounds like there was no real damage of consequence. It's NYC for Christ's sweet sake. Two pieces of advice: - Be nicer when someone bumps you. They will feel guiltier that way, plus you can bank some Karma. You have the nice car, and a camera to record the event, reducing the tension level doesn't cost you anything. Further, the "Look what you did to my baby?!?!" approach just makes you look like a spoiled, rich prick, even if that is not the case. - Plan on going to a great body shop once a year and fix everything. You are bound to get nicks and scratches, and it feels great to get them all fixed at once. Cheaper too. ~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gerry - Some bonehead in a C5 rear-ended you while you were hauling on the tollway?!? Kick his ass, and key his car from stem to stern. No mercy for someone who should know better. YMMV, John "Two Personalities is Better Than One" Jones 98 M3-4 (been rear-ended, been fixed)
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#4. Re: Airbag Idiot Light - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 16:31:11 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: Airbag Idiot Light > My '97 M3/2 did the same thing a week ago. Called two local dealers and they > both said it could be any number of things from a "seatbelt sensor" to a > computer fault (in the airbag computer under the rear seat). Both said to > get it checked out pronto, but that it's "probably" safe to drive. Luckily > it's still under the 4 year warranty for me. My understanding of the seatbelt sensors and how they relate to airbags is that the seatbelt sensors control whether the airbags deploy at a slow speed (you're belted in) or a higher speed (unbelted). If the seatbelt sensors fail (as they're known to do), the airbag will automatically inflate at the higher speed, but they will work. When the seatbelt sensor(s) fail, the airbag idiot light comes on. This is likely what happened to my M3, as the airbag idiot light came on a while back (several months). My temporary fix has been electrical tape over the idiot light - the M3 is no longer my daily driver. Public transportation serves those purposes, with the M3 turning into a weekend / autocross toy. Besides, I'm out of warranty now. Eventually I'll get it fixed. Andrej '97 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:29:55 PDT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 Chester, The more you move the swaybar links toward the ends of the swaybar, the "softer" the bar is. Think about a lever. A _longer_ lever provides _more_ leverage than a shorter lever does. It's the same with swaybars. As you move the mounting location toward the end of the bar, you're makng the "lever" longer, so there is more leverage to twist the bar. -rb >Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:28:34 -0700 (PDT) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 > >I thought he was setup for max oversteer. Furthest from the ends (closest >to the pivot point) means least stiff in the front and closest to the ends >(furthest from the pivot point) means full stiff for the rear, no? > >This stuff always gets too confusing! =) ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#6. M3s in Bay Area - from Paul England
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 16:50:55 -0400 From: "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> Subject: M3s in Bay Area I was out in the SF area last week for work, and saw several M3s. I only remember a few plates (vanities, y'know). Anybody on this list? JOHNSM3 Black M3/2 with what appeared to be a LTW style wing on the 101S around San Mateo. CALRULS Estoril Blue M3/C on 101S around San Mateo again. (don't recall) Silver M3/2 with clears all around and Fiskes on 6th not far from PacBell. (don't recall) Black M3/4 with AC TypeIIs in Santa Clara on the Embarcadero(?) My employer may be moving me out there soon, so we'll have to have a get together. Is there a Hooters in the BA? -Paul E.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Airbag Idiot Light - from JimShadow@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 17:02:17 EDT From: JimShadow@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Airbag Idiot Light It is my understanding that the seatbelt sensor is not covered under warranty. I have a CPO warranty and they did not cover it for me. The replacement part was $78 plus 1 heineken for myself while I put it in. Anybody's dealer cover this for them?? JIM
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#8. 1995 M3 for Sale - from Jim Conforti
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:30:41 -0600 From: Jim Conforti <lndshrk@xmission.com> Subject: 1995 M3 for Sale With only 2 garage spaces and another car on the way, I regrettably am parting with my E36 M3. I thought I'd put it out in front of those of you who actually love the cars, before I give the general populace a crack at it. I've put together a basic sheet on the car located at: http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com/forsale/BMW/lndshrk.pdf This is an Adobe PDF format file, and can be viewed using the free Acrobat reader available at: http://www.adobe.com Thanks, Jim
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 14:33:47 -0700 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 > > I autocrossed my '96 M3 for the first time yesterday. I used > the following > > setup: > > UUC strut brace > > BMW X-brace > > UUC sway bars > > Front setttings furtherest from ends (too stiff for autocross?) > > Rear settings closest to ends > > You are set up for max understeer. Slight correction: that's MAX understeer :-) BTDT - felt terrible. > Go to middle hole in front > and full stiff > rear. > > Always work in stages. Thanks for the suggestions, Jim E. I'm in the process of working thru the stages myself. I went to middle holes on the front, but left the rear alone. My car still understeers a bit. Hopefully this week I'll get around to crawling under the car & adjusting the rear bar. I was thinking of going "mid-stiff" for the rear bar (following the "work in stages" thing :-)), but may go full stiff <shrug>. (For those that followed my 2-part UUC sway bar post, I should be able to post a follow-up concerning the new rear bar settings after the July 23rd GGC autox and 2 days at Thunderhill the following week (July 30 & 31). Stay tuned! :-)) Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4
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#10. RE: [E36M3] 1995 M3 for Sale - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 14:43:54 -0700 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 1995 M3 for Sale > With only 2 garage spaces and another car on the way, I regrettably > am parting with my E36 M3. I thought I'd put it out in front of > those of you who actually love the cars, before I give the general > populace a crack at it. You're gonna have to change those Roundel ads now! :-) Cheers, Jim Bassett 198 M3/4