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#1. Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:03:47 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 Jim Bassett wrote: > > > I autocrossed my '96 M3 for the first time yesterday. I used > > the following > > > setup: > > > UUC strut brace > > > BMW X-brace > > > UUC sway bars > > > Front setttings furtherest from ends (too stiff for autocross?) > > > Rear settings closest to ends > > > > You are set up for max understeer. > > Slight correction: that's MAX understeer :-) BTDT - felt terrible. > > > Go to middle hole in front > > and full stiff > > rear. > > > > Always work in stages. > > Thanks for the suggestions, Jim E. I'm in the process of working thru the > stages myself. I went to middle holes on the front, but left the rear alone. > My car still understeers a bit. Hopefully this week I'll get around to > crawling under the car & adjusting the rear bar. I was thinking of going > "mid-stiff" for the rear bar (following the "work in stages" thing :-)), but > may go full stiff <shrug>. Ok, you peaked my curiosity. I though your rear bars had only two adjustments (i.e., two sets of holes). It's been a long day so I'm probably misreading something. BTW, here's a hint about bar adjustments. When you want to promote more oversteer, you should adjust (i.e., stiffen) your rear bar first rather than loosening your front bar. Why? Promoting oversteer with the front of your car can get real hairy if you're not experienced. Cheers, Jim E.
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#2. Yet another tire question... - from juan_rico
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 12:31:38 -0700 From: "juan_rico" <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: Yet another tire question... Hi Folks, My rear Michelin Sports are toast, so I need to get them replaced, but this time I'm going for that wider look. 235's look way, way too wimpy.... Is anybody on this list running 255's at the rear with a stock suspension, no rolled fenders and not having any rubbing issues? What 255's will work, since not all tires have the same dimensions? My car is a 95, with 8.5's rims all around, if that matters. Thanks! Juan.
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:14:56 -0700 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 > Ok, you peaked my curiosity. I though your rear bars had only > two adjustments > (i.e., two sets of holes). It's been a long day so I'm probably > misreading > something. :-) Quoting from the UUC Motorwerks web site: "...Conventional thinking would assume that you have two positions, softer (holes furthest away from the ends of the bar) or stiffer (holes on the ends of the bar). For increased fine tuning, you can set one side to soft and the other side to stiff. The vehicle does not know the different from side-to-side when it comes to bar stiffness, so in effect, you have a "middle" position." That's what I figured I'd try and see how it feels. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4
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#4. Re: M3s in Bay Area - from Roger Baker
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:20:28 -0700 From: Roger Baker <rbaker@velodyne.com> Subject: Re: M3s in Bay Area There are LOTS of M3's around the Bay. BMW's in general are super popular out here in yuppieville. I'm convinced that's why the dealers here all price gouge & treat you poorly. As for Hooters, don't think there are any around the Bay, but there are plenty of other good places to eat & drink. Roger "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> wrote: > I was out in the SF area last week for work, and saw several M3s. I only > remember a few plates (vanities, y'know). Anybody on this list? > > JOHNSM3 Black M3/2 with what appeared to be a LTW style wing on the 101S > around San Mateo. > CALRULS Estoril Blue M3/C on 101S around San Mateo again. > (don't recall) Silver M3/2 with clears all around and Fiskes on 6th not > far from PacBell. > (don't recall) Black M3/4 with AC TypeIIs in Santa Clara on the > Embarcadero(?) > > My employer may be moving me out there soon, so we'll have to have a get > together. Is there a Hooters in the BA? > > -Paul E.
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#5. Bent Rims - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:51:28 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Bent Rims Sorry for the WOB but all of you experienced with the '95 flat ten double spokes probably will understand. I am looking for the best place to have rims straightened. Of my four wheels, one is slightly bent and two are moderately bent. I would like to have them straightened and used for driving schools. I am familiar with Rennsport but I am curious what every one's impressions are of companies providing wheel straightening. I know this has been discussed before although it appears I have deleted this topic from my archives. I would like to buy some SSR GT-1 (or Integral) but I am torn as to using these for the street (stronger) versus the track (lighter weight). If only I had an unlimited budget I would buy two sets. Thanks for any replies. Best regards, Rich 95 M3
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#6. Nurburgring 2000 - from cris brady
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:18:30 -0400 From: cris brady <cbrady@alpinenet.com> Subject: Nurburgring 2000 Since Michael Lord isn't around anymore to torment us with his tales of the Nurburgring and the mystery meat patties, I'll have to step up and try to fill his shoes. Two innocent Porsche guys travel to the 2000 Intl BMW Nurburgring School. Much hilarity ensues. Details at: http://www.alpinenet.com/ring-jun00.html Enjoy! - Cris 95 M3 daily 73 911 Carrera RS track toy/club racer ========================================================== mailto:crisb@alpinenet.com software with altitude! http://www.alpinenet.com/alpine_at_the_track.htm
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#7. AC Schnitzer vs. H&R - Info Sought - from Rick Pocock
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 21:37:42 -0400 From: Rick Pocock <Rick@DovetailRacing.com> Subject: AC Schnitzer vs. H&R - Info Sought I plan to upgrade the suspension on my '98 M3/4 to improve its on-track handling. I don't, however, want to severely degrade the ride on public streets and highways. I'd be grateful to anyone who has installed AC Schnitzer or H&R coilovers with or without stiffer anti-sway bars if you would tell me how you like your setup. Please respond directly to me to avoid digest clutter. Thanks in advance. Rick Pocock Dovetail Racing ITB Alfa Romeo Spider, No. 42
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#8. re: Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from Ron Katona
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Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:46:17 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: re: Help on Autocross Setup for M3 Stan Shaw III wrote: > UUC strut brace > BMW X-brace Yup... will help to keep everything where it should be. > UUC sway bars > Front setttings furtherest from ends (too stiff for autocross?) > Rear settings closest to ends I agree with those who say that this is a setup for max understeer. There is some room here to argue what to change though. The "book" says that a stiff front swaybar tends to induce understeer. However, in an autocross setting where low speed, high steering angle, high body roll conditions exist, some feel that stiffening the front helps maintain better suspension geometry and contact patch size. In other words, the "book" wasn't written for autocross. Note that those who go this route _have_ to use a stiff front bar to comply with SCCA stock class rules that allow only front sway bar substitution, but I think the theory behind it is still valid. Since the best course of action is to change one thing at a time and chart the results, I'd suggest trying this theory and stiffening the rear bar while leaving the front where it is. If you still can't get the understeer out, then back off a notch in front. > Yokohama Advans (these are well worn, almost all tread is gone) > 38lbs cold front and rear Equal tire pressures all 'round in an M3 will usually lead to understeer. Worn out tires will lead to understeer also. You need some initial bite to get the car turned in even if the rear also lacks traction. Once the front starts to wash out, you have to drive painfully slow to get it back on course. Try 2-3 lb higher in the front. If you have slightly more tread one one set of tires, put them up front for autocross... this will require your FULL attention! :-) Put the good ones back in the rear for the ride home. > JTD Rear shock mounts with "hers" bushings. They'll last forever, but aren't a major player here. Hmmm... at least I haven't thought about how they might do something esoteric like increase effective shock valveing. Maybe Bob Tunnell has, I haven't. ;-) > PF90s > Braking didn't seem to be an issue, although I wondered if the lack of > warmup would be an issue. Not really a great autocross pad for exactly the reason you state, but probably no worse than stock... better than stock after the first hard stop. > UUC Short Shifter > Since you only shift from 1st to 2nd once, this wasn't an issue You know what, shifting takes a few tenths of a second. Might not mean much at the club autocross, but I guarantee the guys running pro solos think about how to save tenths of a second every which way they can. If the class allows short shifters, then short shifters they'll have. So, sounds like you might be due for a new set of tires, need to experiment with a little higher pressure up front, and really need to decide on a sway bar strategy: stiffen the rear, or loosen the front. Do that in steps, one thing at a time, see how the car feels after each change. Lastly, like Andrej said, slow in, fast out. Even modified M3s like to be driven this way. -- Ron "I fought understeer and understeer won" Katona
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Bent Rims - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 01:04:27 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bent Rims I do not recommend Wheels America. Their local Dallas facility ruined two of my rims. The rims were very slightly bent yet they used a welding torch to soften the aluminum. This burnt the paint off so they repainted the rims. The paint job was horrible. The color did not match. I had them repaint the rims but still no better match. Then the paint just rubbed off with your fingers. And when I had a tire mounted, large strips of the paint peeled off down to bare metal. All they are good for now is beater rims. I'll actually recommend NOT repairing your rims. Unless they are severely bent, you won't notice a small bend. They will soon get bent again unless you go to a taller tire like 225/45. If you just want to autocross on them, the bent rims are probably OK. If driving schools, then you probably want the straight rims on the track and the bent rims for street. My advice is based on cost. It gets costly to repair bent rims. More cost than the rims are worth. The straightening will cost at least $100. But then you add dismounting the tire ($6), shipping if out of your area ($10), repair ($100), return shipping ($10), mounting the tire ($6), and balancing ($15+). You are looking at over $150. You can buy brand new BMW rims for 25% off list from at least two of the dealers in the Roundel. I think those rims list for $455. Less 25% is about $350. Repair the rims twice and you might as well bought new rims. You can find rims much cheaper than the BMW OEM rims. And much stronger. I recommend saving your repair money and buying some forged rims. They are much stronger. And get 8.5 inch wide rims. Most 8.5 rims will work with no problems. The stock 7.5 inch rims are too narrow. Plus, with the wider rims, you can go with 245/40 tires. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 - BMW forged 8.5 inch rims all around Dallas, Texas
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#10. BB Triflo Exhaust FS, ebay - from Brent91NSX@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 01:30:59 EDT From: Brent91NSX@aol.com Subject: BB Triflo Exhaust FS, ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=379625159 I am selling my car and thus my B&B Triflo exhaust. Also, I need a used M3 exhaust as well and was wondering where I could go about getting one. I think i saw on here someone had em for $100. If you could please inform me of where i could get one. Thanks very much, Brent Parks