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#1. Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 for Sale - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 10:51:29 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] 1995 M3 for Sale Hey, this is the "Landsharks" car. Aren't you missing a digit in that figure? :-) Jim E. Jim Conforti wrote: > Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 15:30:41 -0600 > From: Jim Conforti <lndshrk@xmission.com> > Subject: 1995 M3 for Sale > > With only 2 garage spaces and another car on the way, I regrettably > am parting with my E36 M3. I thought I'd put it out in front of > those of you who actually love the cars, before I give the general > populace a crack at it. > > I've put together a basic sheet on the car located at: > > http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com/forsale/BMW/lndshrk.pdf > > This is an Adobe PDF format file, and can be viewed using > the free Acrobat reader available at: > > http://www.adobe.com > > Thanks, > > Jim > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#2. Quaife/Turner 3.46 diff - from jbergstrom
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 10:21:27 -0500 From: "jbergstrom" <john@intellectsys.com> Subject: Quaife/Turner 3.46 diff I have followed some of the previous posts regarding differential swaps on a '95 M3, but I would love to hear more from anyone who has considered and/or done a Quaife or Turner 3.46 differential upgrade. My car is a daily driver, and sees more track than autox. I would be interested to know how people liked the acceleration/handling differences, and your experiences installing it or taking it to a shop to install. Thanks in advance . . . John '95 M3
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#3. A prize for the correct answer! - from Peter H Reinhart
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:30:26 -0400 From: Peter H Reinhart <reinhart@neuro.duke.edu> Subject: A prize for the correct answer! G'day M3ers, I'd like to get some insights into the possible cause of a strange experience at the track last weekend. My car - a '98 M3/4 fairly stock except the JimC chip, 8.5" Fikses with Kumho 245/45/17s on all corners. Running about -2.7o neg camber up front and -1.9o neg at the back (very little toe in). I've been running this setup for about a year now and really like it. I've also gone through about 4 sets of Kumho's on this setup and again the results are reproducible (and fun :-) Last weekend at VIR north (amazing track!) I warm the car and myself up for a few laps before starting to push a little harder. Coming down the front straight at about 120 mph I get on the brakes fairly hard and the car dives to the right quite dramatically (lucky turn 1 is a right-hander...). As I let off the brakes the car comes back to the left. This spooks me a little...... I ease up a bit on the next few corners ie bring my braking zone back, waiting for this to happen again, but.... nothing. I increase the speed again and push on the brakes harder, and it dives to the right again..... I do this 3-4 times. As I get on the brakes *hard* the car pulls to the right. At 70% braking it tracks true. Sooooo..... I bleed the brakes, exchange the two front wheels, exchange the front brake pads (PF90s), exercise both calipers, and finally replace the front pads (with PF90s) and bleed the brakes again. None of this helped. I'm stumped. I should add that last time the car was driven was on the same track and there was NO problem. The car sat for about 3 weeks, had 4 new tires put on, and now I have this problem. 1st correct answer wins fame and fortune. Or least some sort of door prize...... Cheers, Peter Peter Reinhart - http://www.neuro.duke.edu/phr/m3.html NCC/Tarheel Chapters BMWCCA, NASA, PCA (E36 M3/4)
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#4. Pleasing Suzy....A few mods... - from Brent Williams
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 10:34:31 -0500 From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> Subject: Pleasing Suzy....A few mods... Suzy, if it is any help, I am currently working on several mods for the E36. Installed a one touch (open AND close) E46 sunroof motor and switch. Still working on building a backup sensor, basically fits in to dash blank and the sensor itself goes into the hole where your tow hook goes. So no cutting, and nothing permanent, AND it looks factory. Nice touch isn't it? If I get everything to work on the backup sensor I guess I will offer them for sale. Any EE could build one though. Not too complex I guess. And I will do a writeup on the sunroof one of these days. Brent PS - next project is to install strobe lights in the tail lamp assemblies for those tail-gaters...Or maybe an oil slick...:)
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#5. Info on Sway Bar Upgrade - from Robert Jackowitz
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:54:44 -0400 From: Robert Jackowitz <RJackowitz@HARVPART.COM> Subject: Info on Sway Bar Upgrade Over the long weekend I spent a bit of time installing most of the upgraded parts that have adorned my garage over the past few months. New Euro rotors, new pads, new brake fluid, 320i transmission mounts and rear shock mounts. Figuring I was on roll and given that the car was already up in the air, I toyed with the idea of tackling the sway bars. In knowing that the rears are more difficult that the fronts, I figured I'd start with the more difficult end first. Well, after sliding around under there checking it all out, all I could think was this install is a major b*itch. I could barely get a wrench on the rear links, let alone actually turn the wrench. So...is there a trick here or is it really as tight under there as it seems. Has anyone documented their install on the web? Gracias, Rob
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Quaife/Turner 3.46 diff - from John Van Houten
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 11:02:02 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Quaife/Turner 3.46 diff I have a 3.46/40% diff (Blanton rather than Turner) in my 95 (Ice9) and I love it. It really helps get the power down, especially in 2nd gear corners on the track. Your downside is higher RPMs on highway and a loss of top end speed. For the highway, it can get annoying while traveling for long periods at 85-90mph, but not terrible--I just turn the radio up--and mileage will be reduced. I still get ~20mpg at 85-90 while towing a small trailer to the track. As far as top end speed, I've only come close to running out of gear at the track once, this weekend at Michigan Speedway, where you use Nascar 3-4 and the front straight, coming into Turn 1 at ~140mph. I hear that the Quaife diffs are even better, but of course, they are more expensive. Installing shouldn't be too hard, other than the fact that a diff is heavy and it tends to be really dirty back there. I actually had to remove and replace the diff at the track this weekend when the front mounting bolt sheared off coming out of turn 6. To remove the diff, you have to detach each half-shaft (6 torx headed bolts each side, be sure to tie them up out of the way using wire, etc.), the drive shaft (6 16mm nuts), remove the rear sway bar (you can get it out without dropping the exhaust). Then remove the front mounting bolt (18mm) and then the two rear bolts (18mm). The diff then is pulled out by angling back and down. Installation is the reverse of removal. Ben Keyes (thanks Ben!) and I where able to do it in about 90 minutes in the paddock at MIS. You'll want a friend or a nice big jack to support the diff as you drop it out and put it back in place. HTH, John ----- Original Message ----- From: "jbergstrom" <john@intellectsys.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 10:26 AM Subject: [E36M3] Quaife/Turner 3.46 diff > Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 10:21:27 -0500 > From: "jbergstrom" <john@intellectsys.com> > Subject: Quaife/Turner 3.46 diff > > I have followed some of the previous posts regarding differential swaps on a > '95 M3, but I would love to hear more from anyone who has considered and/or > done a Quaife or Turner 3.46 differential upgrade. My car is a daily > driver, and sees more track than autox. > > I would be interested to know how people liked the acceleration/handling > differences, and your experiences installing it or taking it to a shop to > install. > > Thanks in advance . . . > > John > '95 M3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:08:27 PDT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 >From: tetice@att.net >To: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >CC: E36M3 <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help on Autocross Setup for M3 >Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:05:33 +0000 > >I agree with the paper clip analogy (and the actual >physics) but to be fair the long section of the paper >clip needs to be the same length in each case. Right, but it simulates the different attachment points provided by multiple bolt holes. After all, the portion of the swaybar beyond the link attachment point (toward the end of the bar) doesn't provide any additional leverage (since it's not being used), so the paperclip example is a good way to simulate this. >I haven't actually tried the paper clip sway bar >experiment and it may still illustrate the point but as >the length of the bar grows, the easier it is to twist >the bar. Yes. So, the quote stating that attaching a swaybar link to the end hole (which makes the length of the bar longer) stiffens the bar is incorrect. It actually softens the bar, because it allows the car to apply more force to it. Right? -rb ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#8. Re: Info on Sway Bar Upgrade - from S Lafredo
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:13:42 -0400 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: Info on Sway Bar Upgrade Yes, remove the wheels. Then take the "top" bolt off the link holder thing :) HTH. S On 7/11/00 at 11:06 AM, Robert Jackowitz <RJackowitz@HARVPART.COM> wrote: : I could barely get a wrench on the rear links, let alone actually turn : the wrench. So...is there a trick here or is it really as tight under : there as it seems. Has anyone documented their install on the web? --------------------------------oOo-------------------------------- Stephen Lafredo Philadelphia, PA slafredo@fast.net BMW NCC 97 M3/2 & 89 325ix
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#9. Re: E46 sunroof switch - from S Lafredo
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:16:41 -0400 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: E46 sunroof switch I don't know about everyone else but I would love to add an auto open/close switch to my E36M3. Tell us more :) Thanks. S On 7/11/00 at 10:36 AM, Brent Williams <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> wrote: : Installed a one touch (open AND close) E46 sunroof motor and switch. --------------------------------oOo-------------------------------- Stephen Lafredo Philadelphia, PA slafredo@fast.net BMW NCC 97 M3/2 & 89 325ix
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#10. [E36M3] Re: Info on Sway Bar Upgrade - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue Jul 11 13:13:49 2000 From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: [E36M3] Re: Info on Sway Bar Upgrade Also, the rubber bushings tend to seize to the ends of the sway bar. After the whole sway bar and end links is removed from the car, I work a little dish washing soap into the bushings and they will come right off. Stephen wrote: >Yes, remove the wheels. > >Then take the "top" bolt off the link holder thing :) Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 Dallas, Texas