E36M3 #333

Tuesday, July 11, 2000 20:07:42

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking - from Sean Hester
#2. RE: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking - from MDadgar@handspring.com
#3. 540i feedback wanted - from Steve Sharp
#4. [E36M3] Brake Pads x Brake Dust - from Paul Elliott
#5. Re: UUC Exhaust for Sale - from Joe Huie
#6. Red Line Oil...it does an engine good! =) - from Chester Wong
#7. 95-96 H&R Sport Springs for E36 M3 - from Will Land
#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking - from Kenneth D. Robb
#9. Re: [E36M3] 540i feedback wanted - from Kenneth D. Robb
#10. Oil Service Indicator Reset Without Peake Tool? - from Kevin D McLeaster

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#1. RE: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking - from Sean Hester
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 14:58:09 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking >Sean wrote: > > it's really very sinple. if you're getting brake fade you > > have two chioces. > > > > 1. don't go so fast. > > 2. get better equipment. > > > > most instructors want students to go with #1. most students > > want to go with #2. ;-) > >3. improve your braking technique. that'll definetly help. and it's probably the first thing you should do when you get fade as a new/intermediate student. but... with stock brakes and perfect technique you can still go fast enough to fade the brakes on an e36 M3. then you're back to #1 and #2 for options. P.S. should you be going so fast at a school that you fade beakes with perfect technique? probably not. ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com

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#2. RE: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking - from MDadgar@handspring.com
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:04:50 -0700 From: MDadgar@handspring.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking Jim barfed: > Oook! Gaaack! > > Let's not start this thread again. It's always a good day when I can get Powell to spew his lunch. :) > Mark, how about putting all the West Coastie track info and > maps into Palm/Handspring format for us. You know you want > to do it :) > > I think it would make a nice download for all the chapter webpages. > This is a GREAT idea. I'll take this project on. - Mark '95 M3 '97 528i 5-spd '88 M3, Hennarot ---- Mark Dadgar - Product Manager, Accessories (650) 230-5037 voice - (650) 230-2100 fax mdadgar@handspring.com - Handspring, Inc. "wide awake on the edge of the world" - Marillion Check out Visor at www.handspring.com!

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#3. 540i feedback wanted - from Steve Sharp
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:40:18 -0700 From: Steve Sharp <steve.sharp@xilinx.com> Subject: 540i feedback wanted OK, there is some M3 content in here. I'm looking at a 540i (auto or 6-speed) to suppliment the M3 as a family car. It would be my around-town car and family errand/travel car. It wouldn't have to autocross or track (same that for the M3). Does anyone out there have feedback on the merits of the auto (steptronic) versus the 6-speed. Is the manual too much work around town? (it should would be fun when doing solo errands!). Steve '97 M3/2

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#4. [E36M3] Brake Pads x Brake Dust - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 19:23:17 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: [E36M3] Brake Pads x Brake Dust Sean, >mandated to contain graphite? is this some sort of european subsity of the graphite miners or something? do they actually have to contain grpahite? or just NOT contain some other chemical, and grpahite is the only other choice these days? if they MUST contain graphite, does anyone know why?< I believe this is in response to my post...What is the regulatory agency in Europe....TUV? Well, I believe they're the guys mandating the use of graphite...Its not just BMW of course...Volvo uses Textar as well. And take a look at the front wheels of Benzes, Saabs, Audis, VWs, and Porshes as well. Nobody has explained to me Why they must use graphite...only that it is required....I'd like to know too....Why are the Japanese pads clean, and the Euro pads dirty? ie, why does TUV require the use of graphite in OE Euro pads? _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3; <20000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger

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#5. Re: UUC Exhaust for Sale - from Joe Huie
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 16:44:37 -0700 From: "Joe Huie" <jhuie@inreach.com> Subject: Re: UUC Exhaust for Sale Someone locally has made an offer to buy my System U exhaust, which I have accepted. Thanks for all the interest. Joe 95 M3

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#6. Red Line Oil...it does an engine good!  =) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 16:58:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Red Line Oil...it does an engine good! =) Informally speaking and more qualitative than quantitative, I think Red Line Oil 10W40 works extremely well in my '99 M3. As you may know, I picked up a case at Steve D's (the reason why I travelled out on Saturday...and ended up getting tapped from behind) and performed the oil change. I drove around after the oil change and drove my girlfriend home and took the long way back home so I got the oil up to 210F. Anyway, the very next day, I started the car up (initial cold start of the day) and noticed that there was absolutely no rough idling. Even when the weather was warmer, my engine would idle a little rough upon initial startup. The car just started, went to about 900 rpms and stayed there for a while and then dropped to 550 - 600 rpms. All smoothly! Another observation was the sound from the engine after the engine dropped back down to the lower idling speed. With other oils, when I would blip the throttle or just plain move the car, I would hear the engine rattle like a diesel (keep in mind that this is all still just after initial startup). This would happen for the next maybe 1 minute or so. With the Red Line stuff...nothing. Maybe I'm over-reacting, but I'm sure happy. Also, I was torn between using Mobil 1 10W30 or 15W50. I felt that 10W30 might be a little too light and that 15W50 might be a little too heavy for summer conditions. Another digester verified an observation I made a while ago: with 15W50, my engine temps were higher than with thinner oil. I think someone pointed out once that thicker oil is poorer at exchanging heat (it also takes longer to heat up). Under stop and go traffic with 15W50 in the summer, my oil temp would sometimes rise to 230 - 240F. With the recent BMW factory fill, I couldn't break 220F! So...I'll spend more for the oil changes (and pretend that I paid the dealer to change the oil...ya know, oil + labor) and take the extra expense. FWIW, Chester BTW, Steve D is no longer selling Red Line Oil. For you on the east coast, the cheapest place I found to mail order the fluid is http://www.manhonda.com. Yes, you have to put up with some of the boy racer products, but they stock all the Red Line fluids at a good price. If only I had mail ordered the fluid....DOH! =) ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/

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#7.  95-96 H&R Sport Springs for E36 M3 - from Will Land
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 19:59:46 -0400 From: "Will Land" <wland@erols.com> Subject: <FS> 95-96 H&R Sport Springs for E36 M3 Set of H&R Sport Springs for a 95 or 96 E36 M3. These will not fit anything else so please dont email me with fitment questions. They have less than 10,000 miles on them. H&R part number is 29910. The price for this set is $170 which includes shipping to the lower 48 states. If you live in the MD/DC/VA area you might opt to pick them up yourself. Thanks Will Land

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking - from Kenneth D. Robb
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 17:54:49 -0700 From: "Kenneth D. Robb" <kenrobb@willisallen.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking True,true because they can do #1 while we are on the track. Ken Robb Sean Hester wrote: > Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 14:35:30 PDT > From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking > > it's really very sinple. if you're getting brake fade you have two chioces. > > 1. don't go so fast. > 2. get better equipment. > > most instructors want students to go with #1. most students want to go with > #2. ;-) > > >From: Jay Sala <jsala@mist.com> > >Reply-To: Jay Sala <jsala@mist.com> > >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> > >Subject: [E36M3] Re: schools; braking > >Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 02:06:42 -0500 > > > >Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:07:39 +0800 > >From: Jay Sala <jsala@mist.com> > >Subject: Re: schools; braking > > > >Good points, Ken. An eye-opener for me were the tips on braking and > >turn-in that Steve Dinan shared in a classroom session earlier this > >year. Though clearly no slug at the track, he said that he's at part > >throttle on parts of the track, eases on to the brakes in the first 1/3 (?) > >of his braking zone, holds whatever his peak braking level is in the middle > >1/3 of the braking zone, then is easing off the brakes in the last 1/3 of > >his braking zone in order to gradually uncompress the front suspension and > >help balance the car to maximize cornering grip. Duh, you mean driving > >fast isn't just about hammering on the gas and brake? ;-) > > > >That said, I think that track pads can help intermediate drivers if they're > >experiencing much fade since having good brakes throughout the session can > >help them learn consistency. Once that base of consistency is learned, > >perhaps then it is easier to learn how to vary braking technique. Of > >course, any obvious mistakes (such as max braking for every corner) should > >be cured early. > > > >To end, let me pass on a semi-joke that Steve D. shared during the same > >class earlier this year... "Want to know the secret to going > >faster? <pause for dramatic effect> Don't use the brakes as > >much. Brakes, they slow you down, don't they?" > > > >Safe driving to all, > > > > - Jay > > > >At 02:04 PM 7/8/00 -0700, Ken Robb wrote: > >>Maybe you need a new instructor? :-) All you have to do is get off the gas > >>a bit > >>earlier and brake sooner and gentler to arrive at the turn in at the > >>appropriate > >>speed, hit your apex, and track out point. Good drivers adjust their > >>technique to > >>match the equipment they are driving. There was a lot of erroneous info on > >>braking > >>techniques being put forth here by some pretty good drivers a few months > >>ago to > >>whit: If you have brake fade you can cure it by braking later and > >>harder----baloney!!!!That is maximum braking. When you want to conserve > >>brakes you > >>must brake earlier and with less pressure. > > > > > >************************************************************* > >List Commands > >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > >************************************************************* > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* -- ----------------------------------------------------- Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ _____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______ http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

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#9. Re: [E36M3] 540i feedback wanted - from Kenneth D. Robb
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 17:59:01 -0700 From: "Kenneth D. Robb" <kenrobb@willisallen.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 540i feedback wanted well the 6-spd will shift when you want it to and the auto will sometimes have a mind of its own. The 6-spd car will be faster. Only you can judge the comfort/convenience thing but it should be just like your M3. Steve Sharp wrote: > Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:40:18 -0700 > From: Steve Sharp <steve.sharp@xilinx.com> > Subject: 540i feedback wanted > > OK, there is some M3 content in here. > > I'm looking at a 540i (auto or 6-speed) to suppliment the M3 as a family > car. It would be my around-town car and family errand/travel car. It > wouldn't have to autocross or track (same that for the M3). > > Does anyone out there have feedback on the merits of the auto > (steptronic) versus the 6-speed. Is the manual too much work around > town? (it should would be fun when doing solo errands!). > > Steve > '97 M3/2 > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* -- ----------------------------------------------------- Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ _______________________________________________ Why pay for something you could get for free? NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

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#10. Oil Service Indicator Reset Without Peake Tool? - from Kevin D McLeaster
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Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 20:07:26 -0000 From: Kevin D. McLeaster <kmcleaster@iquest.net> Subject: Oil Service Indicator Reset Without Peake Tool? Is there a way to reset the Oil Service indicator and/or green lights without the Peake tool? I want to wait until I have the spare $ and spring for the code-reading version of the Peake tool, but would like to reset my indicator now. I'm not cheap, just broke. Really. Thanks, Kevin D. McLeaster WB9HMI '95 M3, Arctic Silver

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