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#1. For sale original factory EXHAUST out of 97 BMW M3 - from Cesar Omar
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 20:45:37 -0400 From: "Cesar Omar" <cesar@cfl.rr.com> Subject: For sale original factory EXHAUST out of 97 BMW M3 For sale original factory EXHAUST out of 97 BMW M3 (25, 000 miles) , Improve the performance and appearance of your 325 or 328 by installing a M3 muffler. I believe it will only bolt directly on to a 96-99 M3 or 328. 95 & earlier E36 can be made to fit with some amount of work. For questions or picture e-mail me at cesar@cfl.rr.com, no price in mind just make me a fair offer. Digital pictures available. -----Original Message----- From: E36M3 [mailto:e36m3@bmwmpower.com] Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 3:14 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] E36M3 #361 This digest contains the following messages: 1. Re: [E36M3] Coolant Level.....Thanks! by: <JimShadow@aol.com> 2. Re: [E36M3] - AutoX Tires & Wheels by: Bob Larson <asp9111@home.com> 3. RE: [E36M3] - AutoX Tires & Wheels by: Zorine, Dmitri Y, CFSMD <dmitri@att.com> 4. Re: Rear trailing arm bushings by: Rob Norwalk <rjnorw@ftw.rsc.raytheon.com> 5. 96 M3 FOR SALE by: B Horlacher <Horlacher@CarrIndustries.Net> 6. A note of thanks... by: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> 7. FS: E36 Coupe Car cover by: Michael Ting <lupin@purdue.edu> 8. WTB: E36 Bentley Manual -got it- by: Michael Ting <lupin@purdue.edu> 9. Re: [E36M3] - AutoX Tires & Wheels by: Ken Robb <kenrobb@willisallen.com> 10. Re: [E36M3] m3 handling ... sedan vs coupe... yada yada yada by: George M. Kofman <sdg2@execpc.com> -------------------- 1 -------------------- Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 23:57:35 EDT From: JimShadow@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Coolant Level.....Thanks! Thanks to everyone who has replied so far. I spoke with the alt. service dude today who said that "This has happened for no reason in the past and has turned out to be nothing....." (NOT impressed to say the least!!!) So I put in 1 full Litre into the radiator to bring it to the cold level. I haven't had a chance to even start the car as I am frantically trying to finish drywalling my garage. I'll keep ya'll posted....... JIM (12K left on the warranty.......) -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 21:47:02 -0700 From: "Bob Larson" <asp9111@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] - AutoX Tires & Wheels > I start out wanting to spend $1500 on auto-x/track tires and wheels... I got the Yok A032R and factory take-off's at about that price. Same size, 235/40 F & R, on 7.5 & 8.5 rims...Rotating will entail mount&balance, but nothing like the money you're talking about. They are plenty quick, probably the best you can find for cold or wet. We love 'em here in the NW Bob L. -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 08:03:45 -0400 From: "Zorine, Dmitri Y, CFSMD" <dmitri@att.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] - AutoX Tires & Wheels > > I start out wanting to spend $1500 on auto-x/track tires and wheels... > > I got the Yok A032R and factory take-off's at about that price. Same > size, 235/40 F & R, on 7.5 & 8.5 rims...Rotating will entail mount&balance, > but nothing like the money you're talking about. They are plenty quick, > probably the best you can find for cold or wet. We love 'em here in > the NW Just another data point. I've used both G-Forces R1's and Yoko A032R's in 235/40-17. They both fit fine. R1's had a little bit of "polishing" action on strut housing, but that's it. R1's where mounted on stock 10-spoke 7.5/8.5 F/R and Yoko's are on M-contours 8.5 all around. I also compared them to my stock 245/40-17 Michelin Pilot Sports. Both 235's seemed just as wide as Pilots, granted with bigger contact patch, due to more square carcass. Yoko's have slightly lower sidewall than R1's, 24.4" vs. 24.7" overall diameter. This might help just a tiny bit with acceleration, but most likely won't be noticeable. Dmitri '99 M3 Coupe - swapped strut hats (both tire wheel combos fit fine before and after swapping hats) -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 07:14:04 -0500 From: "Rob Norwalk" <rjnorw@ftw.rsc.raytheon.com> Subject: Re: Rear trailing arm bushings >Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 14:41:26 -0400 >From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com >Subject: Rear trailing arm bushings > > >Here's my question: I have a 95 M3. I understand the bushings for the 96-99 >cars are different because they were redesigned and made more durable. The >price is the same for either. Is there any reason I do NOT want to use the >96-99 style bushings? Fitment problems? Geometry changes? Here's my answer: There is now only one part number for all E36s. (92-99, 318 to M3). Part is now "split" for easier install. It's easiest if you split the existing one prior to removal by drilling a 3/8" hole through the rubber, and then hacksawing through the outer circumference of the aluminum while it's still installed in the arm. You can then press it out easily with your fingers. Bob Tunnel has an excellent writeup of this procedure on his web-site Rob 93 E36 _______________________________ Rob Norwalk Raytheon Systems Company Vc:219.429.4737 Fx:219.429.5004 -------------------- 5 -------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 09:52:30 -0400 From: "B Horlacher" <Horlacher@CarrIndustries.Net> Subject: 96 M3 FOR SALE 1996 BMW M3 for sale, Techno Violet w/ mulberry interior. Fully loaded, luxury package, H/K sound, CD Changer, Sunroof, etc. etc. I am asking $31,000.00 negotiable; book value is 33,765 it has 47,000 miles on it. I have service records, mobil 1 15/50 synthetic oil changed every 3k with OEM filter "Mahle." Please contact me if interested, Cell phone (336)324-6343. Email me for pictures Horlacher@CarrIndustries.net <mailto:Horlacher@CarrIndustries.net> Thanks Bill Horlacher BMW CCA 172352 -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 08:54:04 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: A note of thanks... I just wanted to drop a note of thanks to everyone on this list and especially to Suzy for being our gracious host. I joined the list a year ago when I started tuning my 328i. I always kind of felt like the odd man out being one of those list people _without_ an M. Regardless, the information (and group purchases) passed around were (and are) incredibly helpful. Last night I finally took the next step and bought a used '95 M3 from a fellow CCA member and driving school instructor here in SF. I feel like this list not only gave me the knowledge I needed to feel that I was getting the right car, but also made me feel confident that, even though I haven't owned the car yet, I know it like one I've been driving for years. So thanks to all. See you at the track. ;) -peterg -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 11:51:54 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: FS: E36 Coupe Car cover Sorry to some of you who contacted me previously, and I was unable to give you details about the car cover. I was finally able to get some information on the car cover. It's made from Evolution 4 fabric. Now with pictures!!! http://24.4.161.169/forsale.htm I'm selling it for $100 including shipping. Michael Ting -------------------- -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 11:55:13 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: WTB: E36 Bentley Manual -got it- Thanks for everyone who made the offer. I went to local Barnes & Noble last night, and they have a copy of the book. So I got one over there. However, the car cover is still available. :) Michael Ting -------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 6:13 PM Subject: [E36M3] WTB: E36 Bentley Manual > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 18:04:22 -0500 > From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> > Subject: WTB: E36 Bentley Manual > > Anyone has an E36 Bentley Manual that they want to sell?? > > Possible trade with E36 coupe BMW car cover. > > Michael Ting > -------------------- > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 11:10:38 -0700 From: Ken Robb <kenrobb@willisallen.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] - AutoX Tires & Wheels yoko and Toyo home pages have size info so you can see how the height of 225/45 compares with 245/40 for example. If you are going to use the same size front and back the traction control won't know or care what that size is. If you are talking about track tires you won't care because you would have the traction control off anyway. Ken Robb Andy Korczynski wrote: > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 22:13:19 -0500 > From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] - AutoX Tires & Wheels > > So what's best? Going with a 245/45 or a 235/40 or a 245/40? It seems that > the 245/45 may mess with traction control, speedo, and odometer because its > a bit larger in diameter. I'm starting to think the best solution is to > just get 17 X 8s or 8.5s and put Hoosier 245/40's on them? What the heck is > another $40 a tire? This is a typical problem when it comes to this damn > car. I start out wanting to spend $1500 on auto-x/track tires and wheels > and I'll end up spending $3000. > > Andy K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: reed nicholson [mailto:reedthis48@hotmail.com] > Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 6:04 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] - AutoX Tires & Wheels > > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 23:00:07 GMT > From: "reed nicholson" <reedthis48@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] - AutoX Tires & Wheels > > >Well this is good news. Somebody should tell Tire Rack because they > >strongly advised me that the 245/45 would be too tall and rub. Guess > >they were wrong. > > My impression of The Tire Rack is that they are very conservative when > advising what will or won't fit. They guarantee that what they say will > fit, will, so they don't take any chances on suggesting something that might > > not. If they say it will fit, it almost certainly will, but if they say it > won't, it might. Say what? > > Reed/Seattle > ________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* -- ----------------------------------------------------- Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/ -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 14:08:39 -0500 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] m3 handling ... sedan vs coupe... yada yada yada > by: <Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com> Eric, Piete & the Gang --- I've experienced this first hand as well. Also, browsing a few Auuuuuuuuudi RS4 web sites, I found a UK article comparing a Euro M3 to the S4. on the track. and the writer did say that the M3 has the following traits: understeer with a tendency to snap into oversteet. REPEAT: snap. now, my personal experience: a few months ago, I was at BFR (2M road coarse in Rockton IL/Beloit WI). Turn #5 is a fast left hander (3rd or 4th). FAST. you are essentially accelerating all the way from #3-3a, and can carry a fair amount of speed into 5. I've had a few close calls there last year, but on that day everything felt right. turn in, throttle... up until the rear started sliding to the right. 10-15 degrees. I immediately flicked the steering wheel to the right and eased a little out of the throttle. the car came back very nicely and very smoothly. I bet it was not very noticeable from outside the cockpit. a little about my car: 1997 M3, no mods other than: A032R tires mounted on 7.5x17 rims; PF90 pads, lower X-brace. [ installed Schroth Rallye-3's two weeks ago :-) ] now, the fun part - I had a camcorder recording this little "slide." I played it back a dozen or so times and showed it to a few track junkies like myself. as they see it, they usually comment something like "wow..." or "holy shit... " a few theries they provided - 1) tires lost grip 2) slippery pavement 3) shit happens I didn;t buy any of them, except maybe 20% of #1 and 2. I figured that I must have done the following: 1) going faster than the prev lap 2) turn-in 3) a little too much power [reduce the amount of grip tire has to turn. ie: remember the friction circle?] 4) and .... pinch the turn a little too tight and not track out as wide as I should have [reducing even more of the tire's ability to grip] result - start of a slide. this is what happens when tire looses traction. how do I know this is what caused it ? 1) on subsequent laps, given proper trackout line and throttle modulation, no slides. 2) same tires/temps/surface 3) the fact that by SLIGHTLY reducing throttle input and with minimal steeting correction the car spabilized as though nothing happened. the throttle issue leads me to believe the slide was a power/throttle oversteer. sort of when you are doing a skidpad excersize and first you are understeering, and all of the "sudden" it's oversteer ? so, as you can see, all this is easily explainable. at least in my case. and ONLY because I had the luxury of video to go back to a doz times. without it, it would have been "tires gave... slippery surface - musta been oil/water/gas/debree... shit happens" this still though does not explain the WHOLE picture: our M3 cars are great cars, but they are ROAD CARS and NOT race cars. if one has a modified car, expect strange handling characteristics. mine was bone stock except for the ///M crossbrace. PTG cars most likely are not using the same suspension components or maybe same moutining points, thus having different susp geometry (just a hunch). wanna have a car with more predictable handling characteristics ? 1) Auuuuuuuudi S4 Quattro 2) P996 3) P996 or get a Formula car and buy a copy of Carl Lopez's book "Going Faster" gotta get back to work and actually do something other than looking busy :-) Best regards, GMK '97 M3 sedan w/ no mods[other that tires, pads and harnesses]; $$$ spent [and spending] on the Skiop Barber racing program & club "drivers ed" events > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 12:08:28 -0400 > From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com > Subject: M3 handling traits-sedan vs. coupe > > > > Piete, > > I can't imagine there are any big differences between the sedan and the coupe, > but I'm sure there are some small ones. I understand where you're coming from, > you know about my incident a while back, it was a similar situation. The tail > snapped around before I knew what happened. I think it's an M3 trait - the car > has very high limits, even in stock form, and when it lets go it lets go in a > big way. I think the only real cure is seat time, but how often are you in that > situation? I'd love to find a place where I could safely test the cars limits > at 50-60-70 mph, pushing it until it spins and learning to catch it, but I don't > think one exists. Also, a third gear slalom is pretty fast. Maybe your course > designer is causing the oversteer. :) > > As far as adjustments go, maybe some more toe-in at the rear? Wouldn't help > those lower speed turns any. > > Eric > > btw - Are you going to Sebring in Sept? App is online at www.sunshinebeemer.com > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------- > > > I've heard a lot about the understeering of the M3 and have experienced that > on slow autocross courses and slower track turns. However, I've also > experienced tail wagging and oversteer during high speed transitions (one of > which sent me through a fence). This usually comes when transitioning too > quickly at high speed. For example, when going through a slalom at speed > (third gear), turn too quickly and the back end will start to step out, > usually very quickly. > > Is this a common experience for everyone? I have a '97/4, if this is not > common, is it possible the sedans are stiffer in the rear causing more > pronounced oversteer vs. the coupes? > > What would be the best steps to counteract this stomach-sinking maneuver > (besides slowing down)? More air in the rear tires, less air in the front? > Soften the rear suspension? Stiffen the front suspension? Currently I have > the maximum camber possible in the rear without crash bolts. > > Thanks for any comments/suggestions. > > > > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 12:55:52 -0400 > From: vernon@sprynet.com > Subject: Ground Control coil-over suspension > > Has anyone had any experience with the coil-over kit from Ground Control? Their package that I'm considering is a full coil-over in the front and a "coil-next-to" in the rear (but still adjustable). They use Eibach springs and Koni single-adjustable shocks. I'd also use their adjustable camber/caster plates and rear shock mounts. They let you pick the spring rate (linear Eibach springs) for both front and rear. Has anyone had any experience with this setup or with Ground Control in general? I don't know much about them. Thanks! > > Vern Anderson > 98 M3/2 > bone stock for only a few more weeks.... > > > > ************************************************************** > Digest Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************** > ************************************************************** Digest Commands UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. **************************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Rear trailing arm bushings - from Rex Tener
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 13:52:19 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Rear trailing arm bushings At 07:13 AM 7/20/2000 -0500, Rob Norwalk wrote: Hi Rob, >Here's my answer: There is now only one part number for all E36s. (92-99, >318 to M3). Part is now "split" for easier install. Can you describe this "split" that makes it easier to install? I am having a hard time visualizing it. Thanks, -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com 1995 BMW M3, SCCA SFR Solo II A-Stock #139 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: [E36M3] m3 handling ... sedan vs coupe... yada yada yada - from Michael Ting
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 21:06:23 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] m3 handling ... sedan vs coupe... yada yada yada Sean Hester said: > the M3 is designed to not slide. and it's really good at it. so good at > it, that by the time things are bad enough to be "bad" you go from > "everything's perfect" to "i'm spinning" with little to no warning. Just curious, do the other 3 series behaves similarly? And how about the M Coupe? Michael Ting --------------------
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#4. Re: [E36M3] m3 handling ... sedan vs coupe... yada yada yada - from Bryan Watts
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 22:14:54 -0400 From: "Bryan Watts" <wattba02@wfu.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] m3 handling ... sedan vs coupe... yada yada yada Sean wrote: > if you want a car that'll give you some warning before you're spinning, the > M3 is not it. no matter how you set it up. I've never felt this way about the M3. I drive a 95 M3, only modifications are Eibach springs, Bilstein sports, Porterfield R4's and Hoosier 245/40's all round. Obviously with this set-up, my car has a tremendous amount of understeer. There just isn't enough camber up front to allow the tire to work properly. Multiple times I have exceeded the limits of the car as it moved from understeer to oversteer. While it did happen quickly, I found the car to be very easy to catch. So far I have yet to ever spin a car while on track. I have had the same experience in my father's LTW. The car is extremely modified as an H-Prepared Club Racer and consistently competed with Modified cars with its previous owner at the wheel. Even in a highly modified car, with much higher limits, I have never found the car to be hard to catch once those limits were exceeded, and most times, I could feel the car beginning to go on me. Most people I talk to at the track, BMW and non-BMW owners alike, all comment on how the E36 M3 tends to correct itself whenever it gets out of shape. Any others with the same experience? Maybe my perception is simply off, as I have only driven a few cars on track. Besides the E36 M3, my only other track driving has been in a 600+ hp Mustang...talk about going from understeer (pushes like a pig) to oversteer (yee-haaa, hang on) quickly!!!!! -Bryan Watts 95 M3 92 325 K-Prepared...coming soon to a track near you
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#5. Driving Schools/Auto-xing-If not an M3, what car then? Any nominations? - from Pieter Van Dien
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 22:44:55 -0400 From: "Pieter Van Dien" <pvd1@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Driving Schools/Auto-xing-If not an M3, what car then? Any nominations? As to the handling characteristics of the M3, I think the consensus is that this is not a car for beginners. While I wouldn't say I'm a beginner per se, I have a lot to learn and I look forward to doing so with a reasonably safe platform. If the M3 is too fast and transitions too quickly, what are everone's suggestions for a good (read safe, predictable AND fun) driving school car, auto-x and future Solo I STREETABLE vehicle: one suggestion from within the BMW family and one from without with a preference for rear-wheel drive. My nominations would be: BMW-- 1995-99 318ti OTHER-- 2000+ turbo VW GTI (may become very competitive in Solo II) 1999+ Miata--for slow auto-xs only, too dangerous for track even with roll bar Piete
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#6. Re: [E36M3] m3 handling ... sedan vs coupe... yada yada yada - from Ron Katona
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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 00:14:07 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] m3 handling ... sedan vs coupe... yada yada yada Sean Hester wrote: > the M3 is designed to not slide. and it's really good at it. so good at > it, that by the time things are bad enough to be "bad" you go from > "everything's perfect" to "i'm spinning" with little to no warning. less > warning then every other car (street car or race car) i've ever driven. I'm almost shocked to hear this! My impression of the E36 M3's handling is that it's so benign and communicative that it's almost boring to drive it near the limits. Yes, I've tracked the car on R1s more than once, did the skid pad exercises, and do a ton of autocross. It's interesting that there can be such a gulf in opinion on the car's handling. I'm not Schumacher (not even Ralph), but neither am I slow and I just never had anything approaching a "snap" oversteer in my '95. I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why my M3 is OK, while others' M3s are mean, nasty, ugly, ill handling beasts! I've got more autocross experience than track time with the M3, but I've just never found the car remotely twitchy or difficult to recover. I've had the rear end step out at Summit Point in the moderately fast (I guess ~85) turn 10 and require only a small correction. I've had bigger slides in slower corners there without drama. I've had big 45 degree tail out slides resulting from stupidity on autocross courses recovered despite my best efforts to jab at the controls. Are we driving the same car? Have you ever driven a Miata in the rain? Now that's a twitchy little b*tch! I recently drove a C5 Vette at an autocross and although it's very benign as well (and damn fast), the instant and massive torque combined with a poor view of the outside world makes it more difficult to drive than the M3 also. I've never driven an RX-7 TT, but I've heard that when the second turbo kicks in, you better know what exactly you're doing. My 318ti was more tricky at speed due to the old E30 style rear suspension. They lose camber after a certain amount of suspension travel because of the geometry of the semi-trailing arm setup. They can be fun rides despite the lack of power because they have both good grip, and the twitchy rear end - more "personality" than the E36 M3. The first time I was on a skid pad with the M3 after being used to the ti, I couldn't get the M3's tail to kick out - I had to be what I considered brutally un-smooth with the throttle to make things happen. the lower powered ti would happily transition from power understeer to trailing throttle oversteer without much coaxing. Maybe it was learning performance driving in that car that gives me a different perspective on the M3? For the record, I've had my car on the track on street tires with stock suspension, R1s with stock suspension, in an autocross with both those setups, and autocrossed with all of Conforti's tricks and a greatly stiffened and lowered suspension and Hoosiers. Haven't tracked that last setup yet. If someone who I knew had a significant amount of track experience complained to me about snap oversteer in an M3, I'd immediately suggest that they check tire pressure, then alignments, then shocks, then bushings, then control arms and ball joints, then a frame shop to see if the car's straight. I know Sean has a lot of track experience, more than me probably. So what's causing the big differences in opinion on this? Car setup? Worn bushings and suspensions? Driving styles? Tire brands or pressures? All of the above? -- Ron Katona
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#7. Re: [E36M3] m3 handling - from Donna Seeley
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 21:23:41 -0700 From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] m3 handling At my first safety school, an instructor was looking at the sea of ~30 E36 M3s and grumbling, "I hate to teach people to drive in M3s. They're so forgiving that you don't know you're in trouble until you're in a _lot_ of trouble." Donna ------- 88 M3, track car, converted yesterday to snap-oversteer stiffness with a mixed-vendor suspension 95 330isA, super-commuter http://www.stopyoucold.com > From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> > > the M3 is designed to not slide. and it's really good at it. so good at > it, that by the time things are bad enough to be "bad" you go from > "everything's perfect" to "i'm spinning" with little to no warning.
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#8. Being keyed and nicked. Found a great fix. (long) - from David Oath
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Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 04:27:41 GMT From: "David Oath" <oath1@hotmail.com> Subject: Being keyed and nicked. Found a great fix. (long) Ok folks after being as loyal reader for about a year I have finally come up with a good tip for you guys.My last BMW was a 325I and was keyed very badly .. Tried to use the BMW paint stick and just made it look worse. My new car was keyed and I just left it. I live in Colorado and get all kinds of nicks from rocks and stuff. So I grabbed my paint stick to touch up the nicks on the front grill. I open up the drawer and see a permanent Magic Maker and figure since the body kit needs to get a good paint job pretty soon I'll try the MM on the front. It looks pretty good so I figure what the hell try on the key marks. I very lightly went over the key marks and then followed up with a soft wet cloth and pretty much buffed it off . Turned it and spit on the cloth and kept buffing it hard. Came out 10 times better than any paint stick I've ever user. Waxwed and it looks great. YMMV. But I think not. See ya ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] m3 handling - from Donna Seeley
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 21:33:23 -0700 From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] m3 handling Ron, I'll see if I can anticipate Ken Robb's answer. :) I'd guess driving style is the biggest reason you've never had the M3 snap around. If you've driven a Miata in the rain and lived to tell about it <g>, you're probably very smooth with the steering and throttle. How's that, Ken? Donna ------- 88 M3, track car 95 330isA, super-commuter http://www.stopyoucold.com > From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> > > I just never had anything approaching a "snap" oversteer in my '95. I'm > scratching my head trying to figure out why my M3 is OK, while others' > M3s are mean, nasty, ugly, ill handling beasts! > > Have you ever driven a Miata in the rain? Now that's a twitchy little > b*tch! > > So what's causing the big differences in opinion on this? Car setup? > Worn bushings and suspensions? Driving styles? Tire brands or pressures? > All of the above? > -- > Ron Katona >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Driving Schools/Auto-xing-If not an M3, - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 21:36:52 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Driving Schools/Auto-xing-If not an M3, what car then? Any nominations? Peter wrote: >As to the handling characteristics of the M3, I think the consensus is that >this is not a car for beginners. While I wouldn't say I'm a beginner per se, >I have a lot to learn and I look forward to doing so with a reasonably safe >platform. If the M3 is too fast and transitions too quickly, what are >everone's suggestions for a good ... Um, I find the reasoning for the statement above ("is not a car for beginners") a little odd. The consensus I'm aware of is that the M3 is too good, and too forgiving, for a beginner to learn much -- a beginner can make HUGE mistakes and the car will still stay on track. As a result, it's hard for a beginner to learn what is right (e.g. smooth turn-in) and what is wrong. The M3 masks the driver's faults. As an example, a couple of years ago I drove Thunderhill in my M3, and was back the next weekend in my 914-4 2.0. I (fool that I was :-) ) drove the 914 like I drove the M3, and promptly found myself flying off the track at the turn-in to the steep rise (whatever it's called). The lesson I learned is that the 914, with its excellent mid-enghine handling, is nonetheless much less forgiving and requires greater driver skill to drive fast. I thing the best car for a beginner to learn on is moderately fast, with good brakes, and squealy, not-very-grippy tires. Just about any Alfa comes to mind, but of course the newest ones are 7 years old (and convertibles -- a no-no that you already recognize). The crappier the car, the more you will learn. I learned in a rental Renault Alliance with an automatic. Once you come in with bald tires, smoking brakes, and all the while you're keeping it on the track and making a good show of yourself, then it's time to move up to some more capable machinery. It's also a whole lot cheaper than balling up a nice, expensive, fast car. Regards, ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@netcom.com