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#1. Re: [E36M3] The M3 is a sports car - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 22:36:05 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] The M3 is a sports car The BMW 507 was a sports car. Joe Dyer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 8:54 PM Subject: [E36M3] The M3 is a sports car > Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 22:50:36 -0500 > From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> > Subject: The M3 is a sports car > > The M3 might be a fast car, but is it a sports car?? > > I don't really know what makes a car a sports car, but the M3 certainly > doesn't look like a sports car. More likely a GT car. > In fact, the only sports car that BMW ever built would be the M1, No? > > Anyone else wants to share their opinion?? > > Michael Ting > -------------------- > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] M3 handling - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 22:41:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <clopez95m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 handling Ron Buchalski wrote about the ring: >No Plus sizes, no larger tires in the front. >They were unbelievably fast! Just guessing but these were Euro M3s? I certainly hope they'd be fast! BTW how did you rank at the end? (reply privately if you wish) :-) Carlos Motor City Chapter __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#3. Re: question on Inspection II - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 06:52:28 GMT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: question on Inspection II >Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 23:26:43 -0500 >From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> >Subject: question on Inspection II > >I have two questions regarding inspection II. > >1. My mileage is 60,000, but the inspection II lights hasn't come on yet. >Is it time for me to do Inspection II? How many green LEDs are still on? I believe that the dealer will perform the inspection when one green LED remains, or when the yellow or red LEDs are lit. If you've been following the inspection schedules, you can safely wait until the light comes on. >2. My Bentley manual specifies a lot of things that needs to be checked for >Inspection II. Do I really have to do all of them?? If not, which ones are >more critical to do?? They're all essential. If you do all of your own work on your car, you have probably performed some of these checks while working on related systems in the car. If you haven't been checking them, do it now. In all likelihood, they haven't been checked since your last Inspection I, and some may have not been checked since your last Inspection II. That's a long time! -rb ....still working on Inspection II, one day at a time... ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Detecting the limit (looking for a school) - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 00:06:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Detecting the limit (looking for a school) On Tue, 25 Jul 2000, Sean Hester wrote: > so... go sign up for a skid car class. it SO worth it. i'll probably > continue to do it 1-2 times a year for as long as i'm racing. (once before > the season starts DEFINETLY, and probably once about mid way through) you > can never get enough practice "feeling" the limit, and "saving" skids, and > i'd much rather practice it in a controlled environment, going slow, in > someone elses car. ;-) This sounds like exactly what I need. I narrowed down the things I need to work on from last sunday's autox to using the whole course, slowing down more for the corners, and learning car control. I think that last one is my single biggest weakness. Ive gotten so I can feel just about how much gas I can use out of a corner so that I don't spin but I'm sunk if I go over that line. I did go over sunday and for some reason was able to save it, but thats very rare for me. Passenger in the car said that I didn't react to the oversteer until very late. What schools are available in bay area (N. CA) I saw skipbarber has laguna seca but it looks like the best they got for a skid car is a truck. derekdaly has a skid car thing, but its a ways to las vegas. worth it? any suggestions? The perfect place would teach slides/oversteer/recovery in a skid car with possibly a regular car/autox session afterwards to practice those skills. And maybe braking technique (IE: trail braking). thanks everybody Jason
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#5. Re: [E36M3] M3 handling - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 05:04:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <clopez95m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 handling Ron Buchalski wrote: >Yes, Euro M3s. But the point is that they were fast on street tires. >Why do so many people here in the US need R-compound tires for track >events (driver's schools), when the Nurburgring, with it's elevation >changes, curves, and high speeds, can be handled on street tires. >Pirelli P-zero, Michelin Pilot, etc. Are they just better drivers? Nah. Without getting into the breakaway warning debate/how quicker the car will bite you in the ass debate... it makes more sense on the old wallett. Sure wouldn't want to burn up a set of Pilots or S02's in a few weekends, what are they like $1000 per set? Set of R compounds are cheaper and will stand up better than street tires on the track. Not to mention they're a hell of a lot more fun. Are R compound tires hard to find in Europe? I know I've seen at least one E30 M3 on BMW CAR fitted with A032R's. Not having a place to change tires/brake pads would also be a big problem. >I scored a 55. I thought that I did much better than that. I didn't >screw up anything badly. Maybe I was too cautious when driving the >graded lap. My buddy mentioned he slowed down to make sure he nailed the apexes and speed wasn't supposed to be that much of a factor, he's guessing he was wrong. Still, pretty good, scored in the low 40's and it was his first time. >I'm planning on doing much better next year. :-) Go for it! -Carlos. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#6. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #376 - from TheBrinkmans@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 08:54:15 EDT From: TheBrinkmans@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #376 In a message dated 7/26/00 12:19:24 AM Central Daylight Time, e36m3@bmwmpower.com writes: << Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 23:39:22 -0400 (EDT) From: tsalva@ix.netcom.com Subject: Help on how to remove Hawk Blue brake dust Hello Listers, I ran a used set of Hawk Blues (rear) on my 98 M3/4 at MIS a few weeks ago. The dust baked onto my stock wheels to the point where only heavy duty scouring for an hour or more (per wheel) could remove most of it. Tried 2x brands of "wheel cleaner" which both did absolutely nothing. Any secret tips on how to get the dust off without removing the finish from the wheels in the process ?? Thomas 98 M3/4 - Techno Violett - most recently Shark Injected, now with Porterfield R4S pads - never Hawks again >> My suggestion is to buy new wheels. I found the cost to have my wheels sandblasted was high enough to enable me to justify buiying a new set of wheels. Now I use my old, brake dust encrusted, wheels as rain tire wheels. Ken Brinkman
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#7. more FREE stuff... - from Ben Liaw
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 09:25:16 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw" <ben@shortshifter.com> Subject: more FREE stuff... as i was cleaning out the garage, making room for the new UUC Motorwerks project car, and found a few things which people may be interested in... - Four (4) BFG g-Force R1 245/40R17 - you can bearly see the tread on them left (as they already come 3/32), but probably good for a few auto-x days, perhaps only 1-2 more full driver schools. ABSOLUTELY FREE. I will not ship them, even if you offer to pay. You gotta pick them up from northern NJ. - A LOT of <unnamed> "short shift adapters". we get these on trade-in and throw them into a box. They bolt onto the bottom of your existing stock shift lever and will make your shifts shorter, more sloppy, and offset your lever about and inch too far to the left or right. available in a bunch of colors anodized like barney purple, racing parts red, or too-cool blue (i think they represent different degrees of shortening, but all will give you the same poor results). FREE. shipping should only be about $5 UPS. - A few "shift happens" shifters. we also get these on trade in. not sure what they fit. they are all worn out, separated, or just plain broken. would be suitable for a paperweight or wedging a door open. FREE. shipping a little more, but still under $7 UPS. i'm still cleaning and i'm sure there a lot more stuff i'm going to wind up throwing out. while supplies last. if you try to call to "put your name on this stuff" you will absolutely guarentee that you will NOT get it. email privately. regards, ben liaw uuc motorwerks
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#8. Ron Stygar Modified Clutch Pedal - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 09:54:52 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Ron Stygar Modified Clutch Pedal This past weekend, I installed the modified Ron Stygar Clutch pedal (http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_remove_clutch_pedal_slop.ht ml). I had experienced some of the same problems mentioned on the above website and was unhappy with the way the pedal contacted the clutch stop. I particularly did not like the problem when it occurred during my driving school at Mid-Ohio and vowed to remedy it before my next school. Needless to say, the pedal arrived promptly and was properly packaged (sans any directions but I used the website above). I installed the pedal and was amazed how much less slop there was in the pedal side-to-side play (something like 75% less or better). There is certainly a lot of slop in the stock bushings and I could see why when I pulled the original pedal out. By the way, I have an extra UUC clutch stop available unused (since I ended up with two from UUC). Would someone like it for $10 (plus shipping). Best regards, Rich 95 M3 with new clutch pedal
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#9. Re: [E36M3] pulling to right - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 11:26:18 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] pulling to right Kit, Kit Wetzler wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I'm fighting an alignment issue. I had my car aligned at a local > wheelworks, which has always been good with making my car drive > straight, and aligning to my specs. The last time, they failed... these > are the specs: > > toe .07 .11 (toe-in) > caster 7.1 6.7 > > They say that the caster is enough to cause a pull, I say they screwed > up the toe setting. What do you guys think? I think that a minor > caster difference isn't enough to cause this strong of a pull... > Toe-in affects straight ahead running as well as the steering. Caster determines the degree of self-centering action in the steering as well as influencing straight-line stability and steering forces in curves. If those are in fact your actual toe measurements after the alignment then you should be ok with those numbers. The last car I had aligned (not my own) had .11 and .07 L/R up front and .09/.09 in the rears. It runs perfectly straight. The caster on that car was measured at 7.27/7.15. Since your caster is not adjustable, I would suggest that he (or she :) ) readjust your toe to ..13/.13 for the front and likewise for the rear. The real trick to an alignment is to make absolutely certain that the setting up of the equipment is done properly. I have seen cases where one alignment shop takes measurements that are totally different from the next shop. Oh BTW, alignment on our M3s are done with a full tank of gas and you in the driver's seat. I also assume you checked the tire pressures. NO OTHER WEIGHTS. Cheers, Jim E.
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#10. Kuhmo Report? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 15:44:02 GMT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Kuhmo Report? Just curious... Has anyone put a set of Kuhmo's new ECSTA Supra 712 tires (what an awful name!) on their M3? If so, would you care to share your impressions with the group? The tires are currently priced at $101 (225/45ZR17), $105 (235/40ZR17), and $109 (245/40ZR17) at Tire Rack, and all have 'green' (good) availability. Two co-workers have these tires on their A2 Jettas. One car has a modified suspension, and has 15" wheels, while the other has a stock suspension and 17" wheels. Both report excellent performance on these tires. Of course, a A2 Jetta isn't an M3! Thanks, -rb ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#11. RE: [E36M3] pulling to right - from Robert Jackowitz
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Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 11:41:50 -0400 From: Robert Jackowitz <RJackowitz@HARVPART.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] pulling to right Jim, I thought that BMW recommends the 150 lbs. in each front seat, 150 in center rear, 45 in trunk scenario. Are M3's different? BTW, last time I had an alignment I was setting it up for track use (high speed stability) with me in the driver's seat, full tank of gas, no spare and no other weights. After we set everything (just for giggles) we lowered the car and put back the spare plus the subscribed weights as mentioned above and re-settled the car. Guess what, barely a difference. No change in toe or caster...negative camber increased 1/10th of a degree. Go figure. Rob > > Oh BTW, alignment on our M3s are done with a full tank of gas and you in the > driver's seat. I also assume you checked the tire pressures. NO OTHER > WEIGHTS. >