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#1. Re: [E36M3] Rollbar Phase III - from Jim Powell
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Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 19:17:46 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rollbar Phase III Well here's the problem with side bars. They really need to push outward so that in case of impact they transfer the impact to the cage rather than just folding inward into you. So it'll be a challenge. But I'll solve it. Gotta look at he rear half when I get the car back Monday. We will see. I want a combo set of side bars. X = good stiffness. H = good protection. I want both so its combo time. Mine also needs to be low because: 1. I'm too old to be slithering into that car :) 2. I've got the side airbags and I ain't giving them up. Jim Skip Bogard wrote: > > I assume you are using stock seats and not racing seats, no? I've > always been curious if there is enough room with stock seats to put in > the Dan Snyder/Kline designed 'side impact bars' as shown here: > > What do you think? Think this (or even a single bar...not the 'tuning fork') > would fit in there Jim? > http://www.bmwmpower.com/Gallery/images/rollbar8.jpg > > When Dan sent me his pics (I later forwarded to Suzy) he was telling me that > his cage was a one of a kind deal in that 1) he wanted the side bars lower > than normal and out of the way of his elbow 2) he wanted them to be removable > It would seem to me if you went low enough, you could avoid the side bolsters > and fit it in there, but with a lot of restrictions on the seat adjustments?? > > I think your choice of gray looks better than most I've seen. Most get > the gray to match the seats...I like the more charcoal gray color than > the dove gray color. Good job. > > - Skip > > Jim Powell wrote: > > > > Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 17:40:25 -0700 > > From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> > > Subject: Rollbar Phase III > > > > More pictures from Jim at Tri-Point Engineering (TC Kline/ProParts). > > > > http://members.home.com/jsp98m3/Rollbar.html > > > > In the pictures for Part III we see the rear supporting structure go > > in. The big difference here is that while it is still SCCA legal, there > > aren't any diagonal braces blocking the openings to the rear doors. > > Since I have a 4 door, no fold down rear seats and a set of tires to > > haul around, this becomes a handy feature. > > > > Stay tuned for Part IV > > > > Jim > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > *************************************************************
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#2. RE: [E36M3] worth modifying my 91 318is? - from Wentz, Don
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Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 20:27:22 -0700 From: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] worth modifying my 91 318is? Shel, my buddy and I rolled our cars onto a truck scale on the way home the other night. Mine is a stock 95 M3 with no sunroof and manual seats, his is a 318is. M3 - 3350 pounds with me in it 318is - 2800 pounds with him in it we weigh about the same. Those weights are probably +/-50lbs but a 500 lb difference is BIG. I've exchanged some mails with a couple of guys who race 318s, I'll see if I can dig up some email addresses. dw 95 M3 Anyone done any substantial mods to am E30 1.8 liter 4 cylinder. The car is a daily driver and is a dog. Car has only 85k miles and is in excellent condition. Anyone familiar with Firehawk racing series? I've heard they raced a few modified 318's. TIA. Shel 98 M3/2 91 318is 83 633 CSI ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#3. Self locking nuts - from Michael Ting
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Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 22:35:05 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: Self locking nuts Not so long ago, I replaced my shocks with a set of Blistering. With help from couple of my friends, I managed to do the exchange by myself. I recently bought a Bentley manual for E36, and the manual mentioned that self locking nuts must be replaced after it's been taken off. I didn't know about this when I did the suspension work, thus I re-used all of the self locking nuts. There has been no problem from the suspension from after I changed the shocks. Should I worry about the locking nuts?? Michael Ting --------------------
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#4. Fw: Self locking nuts - from Michael Ting
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Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 22:36:07 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: Fw: Self locking nuts ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 10:35 PM Subject: Self locking nuts > Not so long ago, I replaced my shocks with a set of Blistering. With help > from couple of my friends, I managed to do the exchange by myself. Should be "Bilsteins" on that first sentence. :P Ack. Michael Ting --------------------
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Self locking nuts - from Jim Powell
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Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 20:44:58 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Self locking nuts No, locking ones are ok to reuse. Once anyway. Jim Michael Ting wrote: Should I worry about the locking nuts?? > > Michael Ting
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#6. re: Hot Front Brake - from Ron Katona
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Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 08:17:45 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: re: Hot Front Brake Lee Hassig wrote: > A cursory exam revealed nothing amiss except that the left front wheel/brake > was very hot compared to the right one. .... > Perhaps the caliper stuck in the clamped position then came unstuck all by > itself a little later. If so, what are possible causes? The only one I can > think of is that the guide bolts need lubricating with anti-seize compound. Lee, the piston might be sticking in the caliper. You really need to disassemble the caliper and inspect it. By that time, you might as well rebuild it. An obvious sign before tearing the whole thing down would be a cracked or torn outer dust seal around the piston. You'll be able to see that by just removing the wheel. Dirt gets in there and the piston sticks. If that's the problem, it will get worse before it gets better. It's really not safe to drive the car in this condition as it will begin to pull to one side and can get the rotor red hot creating a fire hazard. At the very least, it can leave you stranded somewhere. It's not a bad DIY job, but access to compressed air and a small nozzle attachment to blow out the piston is really a must IMHO. Here's a good description of the procedure: <http://www.bmwmpower.com/TechProc/caliper.htm>. The only thing it leaves out is advice to wrap the caliper in a shop towel before you blow out the piston. This keeps brake fluid from going all over you and your garage (and you car's paint). Cleanliness is important here, have a clean place to work and keep plenty of latex gloves and fresh brake fluid for cleaning the caliper and piston handy. -- Ron Katona
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#7. Re: [E36M3] re: Hot Front Brake - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 10:29:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: Hot Front Brake I haven't taken my M3 calipers apart yet, so I can't comment, but on my 2002, I believe its considered very important to keep each piston matched to the cylinder it came from. Don't get them mixed up. Jason
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#8. Gauge-related question... - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 18:31:49 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Gauge-related question... While getting my '95 smogged yesterday, I made the mistake of letting the geniuses at SpeeDee Oil Changers drop my old oil. While draining it, they broke the oil temp sensor for the BMP gauge package that the car has in it. I want to replace the temp gauge with something a little better and I was curious if anyone knew what parts I would need to do it with the JTD oil dist block and how to run the wires for it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -peterg On another note, my oil light keeps coming on. It appears as if the pressure and temp is olay, could it be the oil weight? What weights of synthetic are folks running in the Bay Area? Is there something else I should look for?
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#9. Yoko A032R's? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 18:55:21 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Yoko A032R's? Anyone have any experience with these in 235/40? I'm looking for good autocross tires, and I'm considering picking these up. I like the fact that they're a good fit on the '95, and they wear well enough that I can use them to drive to the course, race, and drive them home. If I did this, how much mileage could I reasonably expect? -peterg
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#10. Skid pads and next M3 - from MFWM3@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 22:48:36 EDT From: MFWM3@aol.com Subject: Skid pads and next M3 In regard to the tread about skid pad training, I did the Skip Barber school and had a blast on the skid pad. They use the used up tires off their cars. The baldest go in the back. It is a hoot to learn to catch, pause and recover. (the last part is the hardest but it is the part that prevents those nasty spins to wall on the inside of the turns) When you get the hang of it you can circle the skid pad holding the truck at a 45 degree angle to the direction of travel. WeeHa!!!! The other fun part is driving the box. They set up four cones on the skid pad that squares off the circle. The object of the game is to get around the box as fast as you can without spinning off. They put two cars out on opposite sides of the box and you try to catch each other. You aim to develop a rythem and to catch your spins. Don't forget to try it in both directions (of course the other car has to also change directions) I often wonder why autocross events that are rained out aren't just changed to skidpad opportunities. The more rain the better. Set up a box and hang it out. With regard to the next M3, I know it appears to have been decreed that the next M3 will be a straight six, but how long with that last if the latest DTM formula calls for V8 coupes. Doesn't BMW want to play with Mercedes, Audi and Opel? Any thoughts? Michael Walsh 98 M3/4