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#1. Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2000 19:13:54 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Jim Powell wrote: >I bought the new Aluminum monoball units from ProParts when they did my >rollbar. I replaced them today. It took right on an hour to do both >sides. This was using a lift and airtools. Without those, it might >take 2 hours. I've been thinking about this whole replacement trailing arm bushing -- at first, I couldn't imagine why someone would want to do this, as the replacements are totally "solid" and will transmit shock loads from the suspension to the body bracket (the one that has torn out in certain cars). I figured that the body brackets would fail _even_faster_ than on a car with the stock bushings. But then I thought about how that body bracket fails. Basically, after the rubber part of the bushing goes bad, then the trailing arm starts slamming around with a bad bushing, which also transmits shock loads to the body bracket. With a bad rubber bushing, the arm can slam back and forth over a sizeable distance, working like a sort of jackhammer against the crossbolt in the body bracket. With the ProParts replacement, it can't slam at all, since no linear movement is possible, only rotation in three axes. So I guess the shock loads are actually much smaller with the replacement bushing. Is this the correct thinking? Obviously the ProParts bushings also have the benefit of a less compliant rear suspension, but most people wouldn't want to drive around in a fully Heim-jointed car ... Thanks for the write-up and pics, Jim! ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@netcom.com
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#2. Aaarrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggghhhhhhh! - from LHassig@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 22:29:22 EDT From: LHassig@aol.com Subject: Aaarrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggghhhhhhh! Folks, OK, so I decided to rebuild a caliper. Thanks, Ron K., for steering me toward instructions for the procedure on bmwmpower.com. They were pretty good, at that! All they left out was the magic word to get the !@#$%^& dust boot attached to both the piston and the caliper AT THE SAME TIME! When I went to my local BMW store to buy the rebuild kit, they had to order it for me. Hmmm, I observed to the parts person, I would think that you'd have these kits in stock. Actually, she said, this is the first one we've ordered. We don't recommend rebuilding calipers (and no wonder, I thought. The kit costs $22 and a new caliper costs $400.) Now I know why they don't recommend rebuilding the caliper. The labor would exceed the price of a new car, and then the tech would "go postal." I spent three hours trying and trying and trying to get the dust boot to do its trick. At this point, I feel like I've been through the rites of initiation. Does anyone have the secret that can save me from taking out a loan to buy a new caliper? Thanks, Lee '95 M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Aaarrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggghhhhhhh! - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2000 20:26:20 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Aaarrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggghhhhhhh! Re: >I spent three hours trying and trying and trying to get the dust boot to do >its trick. At this point, I feel like I've been through the rites of >initiation. Does anyone have the secret that can save me from taking out a >loan to buy a new caliper? Someone did post exactly that secret to the list -- perhaps you can search the archives? As best I remember, it's something like this: 1) Attach boot to piston FIRST -- I think this is the key .... 2) Lubricate caliper well with something (brake caliper lubricant is best, #2 is brake fluid. 3) Now, bring piston/boot "assembly" close to caliper, and fit the boot into the caliper. You want to get it so that when you place the piston into the caliper, the piston keeps the boot from coming back out. Slowly push the piston into the caliper -- the better you lubed it, the easier it is to push it against the caliper/piston seal ... Now, I have a feeling I may have done the following: pulled the dust boot over the outside of the piston and let it ride about halfway down the (polished) sides of the piston. I don't think that will "overstretch it". This keeps there from being too much "pull" on the boot and will allow you to place the outside lip into the caliper and not have it pop out immediately. Then, as you sink the piston down into the caliper bore, pull the dust boot up, and eventually it (the inside lip) will pop into place on the top of the piston. If you must use a tool, be sure it's not at all sharp -- something plastic is good. Once I got a hang of it (and it did take a while -- I was able to do the other three in 5-10 minutes each. ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@netcom.com
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2000 21:27:09 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings True, true. It is slightly noisier and you 'feel' some extra vibration. But that would be subjective. My car has been noisy for a while with other mods. Jim "Andrew E. Kalman" wrote: > > Jim Powell wrote: > > >I bought the new Aluminum monoball units from ProParts when they did my > >rollbar. I replaced them today. It took right on an hour to do both > >sides. This was using a lift and airtools. Without those, it might > >take 2 hours. > > I've been thinking about this whole replacement trailing arm bushing -- at > first, I couldn't imagine why someone would want to do this, as the > replacements are totally "solid" and will transmit shock loads from the > suspension to the body bracket (the one that has torn out in certain cars). > I figured that the body brackets would fail _even_faster_ than on a car > with the stock bushings. > > But then I thought about how that body bracket fails. Basically, after the > rubber part of the bushing goes bad, then the trailing arm starts slamming > around with a bad bushing, which also transmits shock loads to the body > bracket. > > With a bad rubber bushing, the arm can slam back and forth over a sizeable > distance, working like a sort of jackhammer against the crossbolt in the > body bracket. With the ProParts replacement, it can't slam at all, since no > linear movement is possible, only rotation in three axes. So I guess the > shock loads are actually much smaller with the replacement bushing. > > Is this the correct thinking? > > Obviously the ProParts bushings also have the benefit of a less compliant > rear suspension, but most people wouldn't want to drive around in a fully > Heim-jointed car ... > > Thanks for the write-up and pics, Jim! > > ______________________________________ > Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@netcom.com
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#5. Differential whine around 40-60mph - from Simon Lloyd
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Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 00:52:10 -0400 From: "Simon Lloyd" <simon_j_lloyd@yahoo.com> Subject: Differential whine around 40-60mph Have a 99M3, drive it fairly hard but no real amount of track time. Just started to notice some whine coming from what sounds like the differential around 40-60mph while accelerating, above these speeds it is not there and below them it may be too subtle to hear, any similar experiences... Thanks. Simon 99M3 Cosmos __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Differential whine around 40-60mph - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2000 21:45:57 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Differential whine around 40-60mph Pull the fill plug (upper) in the differential and stick the tip of your pinky in and see if its filled with fluid. Jim Simon Lloyd wrote: > > Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 00:52:10 -0400 > From: "Simon Lloyd" <simon_j_lloyd@yahoo.com> > Subject: Differential whine around 40-60mph > > Have a 99M3, drive it fairly hard but no real amount of track time. Just > started to notice some whine coming from what sounds like the differential > around 40-60mph while accelerating, above these speeds it is not there and > below them it may be too subtle to hear, any similar experiences... > > Thanks. > > Simon > 99M3 Cosmos > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. > > http://im.yahoo.com > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#7. SuperSprint Exhaust: Impresion and Installation - from Cesar Omar
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Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 02:23:18 -0400 From: "Cesar Omar" <cesar@cfl.rr.com> Subject: SuperSprint Exhaust: Impresion and Installation First I like to thanks Mr. Brad at EVO SPORT (http://www.evosport.com/) for the good advises on modifying the M3 and superb customer service that his company offer. I join the group purchase for the SS. exhaust; I save about 25% of the retail cost. The exhaust was well package and for that reason the exhaust arrived in perfect condition, no bend or scratches. This group purchase was handle on a very professional manner. The Installation One hour, One Man, piece of cake!!!!!! Jack the car at the rear sub frame. Get it up as high as you can. Then, simply use your jack stands at the two rearward plastic pads just in front of the wheels. When you pull the stock muffler OFF, be prepared as it's considerably heavier than you would expect. Undo the front mounts first and then take off at the rear. I use conventional hand tools. One of the things you'll want to have is a long (12" or longer) 3/8" drive socket extension, and either a small universal joint, or better yet - a swivel socket that 13mm and if neither of those then a 'wobble' extension. You'll never get the rear brackets undone without some type of swivel or wobble tool. Don't make the mistake of taking the muffler off the rubber brackets in the rear.... bring the pipe down with the whole assembly intact. Demount, the rubber brackets, flip the one side around 180 degrees, and then bolt up. Take the whole pipe up then, mount the rear first and then do the front connector behind the cat. My impressions It's nice looking and well built, fits perfect on my M3, and your heat shield can be reinstalled on it. It's not too loud, no roaring, no screaming, just a soft, pleasant hum, you will feel a little just a little performance gain. The sound, look and weight savings alone is worth the price. If you want one, call EVO Sport and ask for Brad definitely this is a company to do business with. I have no connection with EVO Sport, I'm just a happy customer. César Omar
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#8. Re: Eibach sway bar adjustments - from Gerry Miranda
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Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 00:09:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Gerry Miranda <gerry_miranda@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Eibach sway bar adjustments stiff/stiff gets you a bit less roll and just as good a balance (neutral handling), but does it provide as much grip? i always thought that these larger sway bars get you a lot less roll, and a lot more neutral handling, but what does it do to your grip? can you enter a known corner at higher /same /less speed with stiff sways... g --- S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> wrote: > Group, > > I have been running my bars soft/soft and really > love the set-up. But > tonight with Jim's help we set the bars to > sift/sift. This should give > me the same balance but with even less roll! > > Just got back from a quick drive. :) All I can say > is Oh, yeah! Really > nice. Car rolls a bit less (any less and there would > none ;) and the > handling is GREAT. > > HTH. > > Stephen > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. > http://invites.yahoo.com/ > > To unsubscribe, send a blank email to: > - automotive_tuning-unsubscribe@topica.com > ___________________________________________________________ > T O P I C A The Email You Want. > http://www.topica.com/t/16 > Newsletters, Tips and Discussions on Your Favorite Topics ===== Gerry 97 M3/4 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/
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#9. stage 1 turbo dyno results - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 18:29:00 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: stage 1 turbo dyno results I made a couple of passes with my car on the dyno today. Both runs produced the same hp, and the peak torque was within 4ft/lbs or each other. Results: Max Power: 280hp @ 5500rpm Max Torque: 277 ft/lb @ 4500rpm The link to the graph is: http://www.pompano.net/~nikog/pics/dynorun1.jpg Details: '95 M3 5-speed AA Stage 1 turbo kit 30lb injectors custom air box/heat shield 6psi base boost setting, but boost started dropping off to 4psi above 5000rpm (due to wastegate setting/design) run(s) made in 3rd gear 2 1/2" downpipe, high-flow cat, stock muffler custom tuned chip (by me) I can't wait to see the results after I get the boost stable at 7psi all the way to redline. Maybe 300rwhp?? Enjoy :) Nick
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#10. Re: [BigBoostGruppe] stage 1 turbo dyno results - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:52:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [BigBoostGruppe] stage 1 turbo dyno results Hi Nick, Wow.. here are a few thoughts.. 1) Your torque curve..its's flat! 2) I'm a little skeptical that you're only making 4PSI at the HP peak. Here's why. If you take a stock M3 and dyno it it will make around 200RWHP. Given that the MAP is 14PSI absolute, that's 14.28 HP/PSI. Now, take a nicely tuned NA M3 with a CAIS. It will have about 14.5 PSI MAP. It will make, say 225RWHP or 15.5 HP/PSI. Your car is making 280RWHP at 18.5PSI. That's 15.1HP/PSI. Which is better than stock. And almost as effieient as a tuned NA car. I'm not saying that this isn't possible, it's just amazing. Normally you'd expect the turbo motor's pressure-power efficiency to be much lower than the stock NA one. For example, AA's example Stage 1 on the site makes 295@21.5PSI absolute or 13.7HP/PSI. I'm not sure what my car did since the boost also dropped off because the BC wasn't set up correctly. But I expect it to be worse than AA's. 3) If you are really only running 4PSI and you can maintain, say, 15.0 HP/PSI then you'd make around 320RWHP. In reality, I'll bet that the efficiency drops off a lot above 4PSI as the timing retards to deal with detonation. But 300RWHP should be within reach. Ironically, 320RWHP is 380 at the crank, which is that Mitsu says that our turbo can support. 4) It will be interesting to see the EGO of your engine at some point. 5) That torque curve sure is flat. :-). Good Job, Matt __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/