-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: Eibach sway bar adjustments - from nabli@attglobal.net
Top
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 20:45:53 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: Eibach sway bar adjustments Gerry, Having researched, tested and reported on this topic ad nauseam, here is a link: http://www.bimmer.org/m3/messages/archive/msgsy1999w48/52391.html <http://www.bimmer.org/m3/messages/archive/msgsy1999w48/52391.html> More at: http://www.bimmer.org/m3/messages/archive/msgsy1999w50/54001.html <http://www.bimmer.org/m3/messages/archive/msgsy1999w50/54001.html> My next move is to Stiff/Stiff. This is my recommendation ONLY for the Eibachs however. I make no representations of these setting for any other anti-sway bars. Cheers, Jim E. Gerry Miranda wrote: stiff/stiff gets you a bit less roll and just as good a balance (neutral handling), but does it provide as much grip? i always thought that these larger sway bars get you a lot less roll, and a lot more neutral handling, but what does it do to your grip? can you enter a known corner at higher /same /less speed with stiff sways... g --- S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> wrote: > Group, > > I have been running my bars soft/soft and really > love the set-up. But > tonight with Jim's help we set the bars to > sift/sift. This should give > me the same balance but with even less roll! > > Just got back from a quick drive. :) All I can say > is Oh, yeah! Really > nice. Car rolls a bit less (any less and there would > none ;) and the > handling is GREAT. > > HTH. > > Stephen > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. > http://invites.yahoo.com/ <http://invites.yahoo.com/> > > To unsubscribe, send a blank email to: > - automotive_tuning-unsubscribe@topica.com > ___________________________________________________________ > T O P I C A The Email You Want. > http://www.topica.com/t/16 <http://www.topica.com/t/16> > Newsletters, Tips and Discussions on Your Favorite Topics ===== Gerry 97 M3/4 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/ <http://invites.yahoo.com/> To unsubscribe, send a blank email to: - automotive_tuning-unsubscribe@topica.com ___________________________________________________________ T O P I C A The Email You Want. http://www.topica.com/t/16 <http://www.topica.com/t/16> Newsletters, Tips and Discussions on Your Favorite Topics
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Replacing Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - from Richard Biscevic
Top
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 18:28:42 -0700 From: Richard Biscevic <biscevic@pacbell.net> Subject: Replacing Rear Trailing Arm Bushings All, If you are going to be replacing the rear trailing arm bushings in your M3, you owe it to yourself to look into a tool made by Technictool.com. Although I didn't see it on their website, they made a rear trailing arm bushing removal/installation tool for Jim Mercado, Marco Romani and I. With the use of an impact wrench, it takes about three minutes to remove the rear bushing, and about three minutes to install it. Without an impact wrench, you'd want to use a 19 mm rachet to pull the bushing out (takes about 5-10 minutes that way). It is one of those very specific, expensive tools, (about $300). However if you know a couple people who will go in on the tool with you, it can be well worth it. In case anyone wants more info on this, feel free to contact me. -Richard Biscevic
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. BMW Race Fans - from Bob Weber
Top
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 21:31:55 -0500 From: Bob Weber <bobweber@worldnet.att.net> Subject: BMW Race Fans Today NBC broadcast the American LeMans Series race from Canada. If we want to see more races on NBC we should all send an email to sports@msnbc.com and let them know. bob
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Bingo! - from LHassig@aol.com
Top
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 22:41:04 EDT From: LHassig@aol.com Subject: Bingo! Folks, Thanks again to all of you who sent advice about how to install the brake-caliper dust boot. Sweet success. Most Valuable Player award goes to Jim Powell, who did indeed reveal the secret, which is: "Move the boot all the way to the base of the piston with it turned inside out sort of." By turning the boot inside out sort of, the boot almost doubles in width (length?) compared to the way it comes in the kit. This makes all the difference. After extending the boot in this way, I pretty much followed the instructions I found on Suzy's site, with these nuances. I found I could clamp the caliper at the base of the cylinder almost upright in a bench vise. Now, I didn't have to use one hand to hold the caliper, and I could rotate the vise on its mount to see all sides of the caliper and piston. I found it best to begin installing the boot at the "back" of the caliper, where it passes around the edge of the disc when the caliper is on the car. The lip on the boot will slide easily into the slot for it in the caliper. Then I worked the boot into the slot along one side of the caliper then the other so that the final bulge was at the front of the caliper where I could easily manipulate it with my fingers. In seating this last bit of the boot, don't let the bulge creep around to the back of the caliper. Using two fingers on each side of the bulge helps to keep it from getting away from you and migrating toward the back. That happened to me a couple of times; I had to blow the piston out of the caliper and start over. None of this is possible, of course, without first turning the boot inside out "sort of." Thanks, Jim. That tip has probably saved me the cost of a new caliper, for which my dealer was asking about four bucks. Lee '95 M3
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Help! My M3 is a quitter! - from Rob Hatrak
Top
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 20:56:59 -0700 From: "Rob Hatrak" <Hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Help! My M3 is a quitter! Ladies and Gentlemen, I am having a problem with my M3 that my dealer seems to be having trouble fixing. At random times, the engine will die. It has happened sitting still, and it has happened at 80 mph on the freeway (VERY scary). When the engine dies, it will crank strongly but not start. I have to let it sit for a few minutes and then it will run for less than 2 minutes before dying again. The dealer replaced the fuel pump, fixed a wire they said was pinched (in the wiring harness that goes to the under-hood diagnostic port), and replaced my fuel pump fuse. It took the dealer 8 days to accomplish those tasks, and the car has been fine up until today (drove it for about 3 days in between). Had anyone had a similar experience? If so, I'd greatly appreciate any help you could offer. If you respond to the digest, please also CC me so I don't miss anything. Thanks in advance, Rob Sin City Chapter 95 M3
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. RE: [E36M3] Help! My M3 is a quitter! - from MDadgar@handspring.com
Top
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 21:36:57 -0700 From: MDadgar@handspring.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help! My M3 is a quitter! Rob wrote: > I am having a problem with my M3 that my dealer seems to be > having trouble fixing. At random times, the engine will die. > It has happened sitting still, and it has happened at 80 mph > on the freeway (VERY scary). When the engine dies, it will > crank strongly but not start. I have to let it sit for > a few minutes and then it will run for less than 2 minutes > before dying again. My wife's 528i did this. Turned out to be the catalytic converter. It gutted itself and spewed chunks into the exhaust, which blocked it and suffocated the engine. You'd let it sit a few minutes and the backpressure would dissipate enough to start it. They replaced the cat and muffler under warranty. - Mark '95 M3 '97 528i 5-spd '88 M3, Hennarot ---- Mark Dadgar - Product Manager, Accessories (650) 230-5037 voice - (650) 230-2100 fax mdadgar@handspring.com - Handspring, Inc. "wide awake on the edge of the world" - Marillion Check out Visor at www.handspring.com!
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Caliper rebuild was Aaarrrrrggghhh! - from Carlos Lopez
Top
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 21:41:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <clopez95m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Caliper rebuild was Aaarrrrrggghhh! LHassig@aol.com wrote: >All they left out was the magic word to get the !@#$%^& dust boot >attached to both the piston and the caliper AT THE SAME TIME! Lee, We have a write up with pics at http://www.neilwerke.com follow it to maintenance and to brakes and you'll find our procedure. (yeah that's me in the pics) It is for E30's but it works well for E36's as I did a quickie rebuild at a driver's school for an E36 M3 at Putnam Park and the procedure is the same. Carlos (15 rebuilds and counting) E30 M3 PS Michel Potheau mentioned Neil's site on the One Lap article in the Roundel this month. Woohoo! :-) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: Help! My M3 is a quitter! - from Jeff Lin
Top
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 21:48:11 -0700 From: "Jeff Lin" <JeffreyLin@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Help! My M3 is a quitter! Check the fuel line... if there is a hole, the pump will suck air... I'd also check the ignition... JL -----Original Message----- From: Rob Hatrak <Hatrak@ix.netcom.com> To: Conforti's Digest <bmw-performance@lists.xmission.com>; Suzy's List <e36m3@bmwmpower.com>; UUC List <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Date: Sunday, August 06, 2000 9:02 PM Subject: Help! My M3 is a quitter! >Ladies and Gentlemen, > >I am having a problem with my M3 that my dealer seems to be having trouble >fixing. At random times, the engine will die. It has happened sitting >still, and it has happened at 80 mph on the freeway (VERY scary). When the >engine dies, it will crank strongly but not start. I have to let it sit for >a few minutes and then it will run for less than 2 minutes before dying >again. > >The dealer replaced the fuel pump, fixed a wire they said was pinched (in >the wiring harness that goes to the under-hood diagnostic port), and >replaced my fuel pump fuse. It took the dealer 8 days to accomplish those >tasks, and the car has been fine up until today (drove it for about 3 days >in between). > >Had anyone had a similar experience? If so, I'd greatly appreciate any help >you could offer. If you respond to the digest, please also CC me so I don't >miss anything. > >Thanks in advance, > >Rob >Sin City Chapter >95 M3 > >
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Help! My M3 is a quitter! - from Andrew E. Kalman
Top
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 22:36:00 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help! My M3 is a quitter! Re: >I am having a problem with my M3 that my dealer seems to be having trouble >fixing. At random times, the engine will die. It has happened sitting >still, and it has happened at 80 mph on the freeway (VERY scary). When the >engine dies, it will crank strongly but not start. I have to let it sit for >a few minutes and then it will run for less than 2 minutes before dying >again. Also sounds like a clogged fuel filter -- you didn't mention them changing it ... ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@netcom.com
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Cheap parts - from Zez413@aol.com
Top
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 08:24:44 EDT From: Zez413@aol.com Subject: Cheap parts I am looking for a good place to order factory parts. I belong to the BMW car club, so I will be eligible for the discount. I would appreciate any suggestions on a cheap (probably not the most appropriate term), and reliable source. I currently live in Philadelphia and I am not opposed to mail order if necessary. Thank you 98 M3/2 Cosmos