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#1. Rear Noises - from Will Gilbert
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Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 14:43:00 -0400 From: "Will Gilbert" <will@zim.com> Subject: Rear Noises When going around a hard left corner under power with no radio on my friend and I heard some clunking sounds in the rear. I think that it is coming from the rear left. We went back repeated the turn and again heard the same clunking noises. The car is lowered with H&R Sport springs with stock shocks (flame suit on). I don't think it is the road even though they are terrible here in Orlando. Could it be a shock mount? Thanks, Will Gilbert 99 M3
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Rear Noises - from Lee, Peter
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Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 14:41:55 -0400 From: "Lee, Peter " <plee@mlundy.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Noises Definitely. My rear shock tops were banged up pretty good when my car was diagnosed. Get the JT metallic shock tops. So far, no sounds. Oh, and another thing... also check your front sway bar links. Mine were shot. Those little things make a lot of discomforting noises when you go over even the smallest Philadelphia pothole, which is about 1 foot deep! >>> "Will Gilbert" <will@zim.com> 08/07/00 02:47PM >>> Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 14:43:00 -0400 From: "Will Gilbert" <will@zim.com> Subject: Rear Noises When going around a hard left corner under power with no radio on my friend and I heard some clunking sounds in the rear. I think that it is coming from the rear left. We went back repeated the turn and again heard the same clunking noises. The car is lowered with H&R Sport springs with stock shocks (flame suit on). I don't think it is the road even though they are terrible here in Orlando. Could it be a shock mount? Thanks, Will Gilbert 99 M3 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#3. M3 Exhaust Vibration, Cure, and Question - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 14:52:47 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: M3 Exhaust Vibration, Cure, and Question My '97 M3, like many cars was plagued with an exhaust vibration since I bought it about 3 months ago. Also, my fathers M-Roadster ('98 or '99 can't remember which) had the similar problem. My car happened to *buzz* like crazy (it was driving me crazy as well) at around 5k rpms. It also would rattle at idle. Idle rattle was very noticeable at stoplights that had a cement wall/guard rail next to me (It amplified the sound of the exhaust). I have had some feedback from other owners with the same problem: Noise varies from a mild rattle at idle to an all out harmonic buzz at varying rpms (mine happened to be about 5k). Cause: Catalytic Convertor broken apart on the inside. Local dealer said this problem is more common on 5's and 7's. They haven't seen as many 3's with this problem. I had it replaced under warranty today, all parts in stock... imagine that!! I am curious, does anybody know if the design of the new catalytic is any better (or at least updated) then the old design that fell apart?? -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) (de-buzzed) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry
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#4. Re: [E36M3] M3 Exhaust Vibration, Cure, and Question - from Lee, Peter
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Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 14:55:39 -0400 From: "Lee, Peter " <plee@mlundy.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 Exhaust Vibration, Cure, and Question Never knew there was a newer one! Speaking of cats.... does Remus's free flow "dummy" cat really work as advertised? >>> "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> 08/07/00 02:57PM >>> Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 14:52:47 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: M3 Exhaust Vibration, Cure, and Question My '97 M3, like many cars was plagued with an exhaust vibration since I bought it about 3 months ago. Also, my fathers M-Roadster ('98 or '99 can't remember which) had the similar problem. My car happened to *buzz* like crazy (it was driving me crazy as well) at around 5k rpms. It also would rattle at idle. Idle rattle was very noticeable at stoplights that had a cement wall/guard rail next to me (It amplified the sound of the exhaust). I have had some feedback from other owners with the same problem: Noise varies from a mild rattle at idle to an all out harmonic buzz at varying rpms (mine happened to be about 5k). Cause: Catalytic Convertor broken apart on the inside. Local dealer said this problem is more common on 5's and 7's. They haven't seen as many 3's with this problem. I had it replaced under warranty today, all parts in stock... imagine that!! I am curious, does anybody know if the design of the new catalytic is any better (or at least updated) then the old design that fell apart?? -Justin -- '76 02 (Whimsical) '97 M3 (Orion) (de-buzzed) BMW CCA#77056 check out http://users.vei.net/jgerry ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Metal Thermostat Housing - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 15:54:59 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Metal Thermostat Housing Try looking at the E34 525 engine. It has a metal water inlet thermostat housing instead of the 3-series plastic one. You have to use the paper gasket intended for the metal housing as well, instead of the rubber one used on the plastic housing. That is: Metal housing = paper gasket Plastic housing = rubber gasket - Skip "DiVincenti, A.J." wrote: > > Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 11:07:14 -0500 > From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsusd.lsuhsc.edu> > Subject: Metal Thermostat Housing > > Help. I've searched the archives in vain to find the part number for the > metal thermostat housing. One post referenced a number, but when the guy at > the parts counter pulled it, it turned out to be the plastic one. Does BMW > make the metal housing or is it after-market? BMW is only showing the fine > German plastic one. Sorry, I know this has been covered. > > A.J. DiVincenti > Assistant Dean for Fiscal Affairs > LSU School of Dentistry
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#6. Easily Changing the Microfilter and Wiper Relay - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 19:55:34 GMT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Easily Changing the Microfilter and Wiper Relay All, I finally had the opportunity to change the microfilter in my '95 M3. While I was there, I also installed the wiper relay with variable delay (Steve LaFredo group purchase). Guess what? I was able to install BOTH of these items without removing the glovebox. It's very easy to do, and I'm sure that it's the procedure that the dealer uses when replacing the filter. The steps: 1) Remove the lower cover of the dashboard on the passenger side (three screws) 2) Remove the air duct (it has two plastic 'rivets', top and bottom, which pop out and can be re-used). 3) Remove two 8mm hex head screws holding in the 'rack' which holds the wiper relay, splice block, and various other modules. These screws point straight up. Loosen the third screw which holds this assembly against the firewall. Now you can push the entire assembly up and off the firewall screw, and move it toward the right side of the car. 4) Take the cover off of the microfilter compartment and remove/replace the filter. Remember to "break" the frame at the three designated locations. You'll need to fold the first section of the filter onto itself as you pull the second section out, and then it will come out. 5) While the 'rack' is loose, you can easily remove the wiper relay and replace it. The whole process took about 30 minutes, and since I didn't remove my glovebox, I still have a glovebox door that closes properly! -rb ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#7. Aluminum Thermostat Housings - from Steve D'Gerolamo
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Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 17:27:35 -0400 From: "Steve D'Gerolamo" <steved3@idt.net> Subject: Aluminum Thermostat Housings These are aftermarket.....mfg is MTC (Mission Trading Corp). I keep these and the factory plastic ones in stock along with the hardware and gasket. SD ========================================= Steve D'Gerolamo - The Ultimate Garage 201-262-0412 / steved3@idt.net / http://www.ultimategarage.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Metal Thermostat Housing - from Sean Hester
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Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 14:40:34 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Metal Thermostat Housing >That is: Metal housing = paper gasket > Plastic housing = rubber gasket hmmm. i had a metal housing put on my 95. there was no paper gasket. (i saw them do it) there was a small (rubber) gasket that sealed one side of it, but the rest of it went directly onto the car, with no gasket. i asked them "where's the gasket that goes between the cover and the rest" and they said "there's no gasket really, only this little one for the inside" (pointing to the little rubber one) which of these things is "wrong" on my car. 1. i have no gasket, and i should have a paper one. 2. the little rubber one i have should be paper. thanks! ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Help! My M3 is a quitter! - from Gerry Miranda
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Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 15:05:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Gerry Miranda <gerry_miranda@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help! My M3 is a quitter! My old car used to do this. Turns out the O2 Sensor was bed --- Rob Hatrak <Hatrak@ix.netcom.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 20:56:59 -0700 > From: "Rob Hatrak" <Hatrak@ix.netcom.com> > Subject: Help! My M3 is a quitter! > > Ladies and Gentlemen, > > I am having a problem with my M3 that my dealer > seems to be having trouble > fixing. At random times, the engine will die. It > has happened sitting > still, and it has happened at 80 mph on the freeway > (VERY scary). When the > engine dies, it will crank strongly but not start. > I have to let it sit for > a few minutes and then it will run for less than 2 > minutes before dying > again. > > The dealer replaced the fuel pump, fixed a wire they > said was pinched (in > the wiring harness that goes to the under-hood > diagnostic port), and > replaced my fuel pump fuse. It took the dealer 8 > days to accomplish those > tasks, and the car has been fine up until today > (drove it for about 3 days > in between). > > Had anyone had a similar experience? If so, I'd > greatly appreciate any help > you could offer. If you respond to the digest, > please also CC me so I don't > miss anything. > > Thanks in advance, > > Rob > Sin City Chapter > 95 M3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > ===== Gerry 97 M3/4 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: Help! My M3 is a quitter! - from S Lafredo
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Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 19:21:26 -0400 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: Help! My M3 is a quitter! Rob, Sorry I never posted this information to the M3 list but it was about my iX, now it looks like it applies to all of us :) I was having this exact problem for over a year with my iX! I replaced the 02 sensor, the fuel pressure regulator, throttle butterfly switch and was about to replace the fuel pump as you have already done. Since that was expensive (~$150 discounted) I wanted to make sure it would solve the problem before replacing it. Well while talking to JT I explained the symptoms my iX was having, very similar to yours. My problems were that the car would start fine but sometime it would just turn and turn and turn. Additionally, I would be cruising down the road and see the RPM drop and noticed that the car was dead, no bucking, nada. Well JT, suggest I find the main relay and tap it while the car was running. If it stalled that was the problem. Well guess what $19 and 2 minutes fixed :) On my iX the main relay and two other orange relays are found outside of the fuse box. I also replace the orange relays b/c as you will see by the description they may also have contributed to the problems I was having. I also asked others how I could test relays since most of mine are probably 1989 originals :) and before something else mysteriously started to happen. The answer I got was you cannot test relays they are either good or bad :( and that some start to go after 5 years. So you may want to keep an eye on your other relays. Here is the parts information for my relays as they relate to the iX. I would guess they are the same for all cars. Since they are so cheap, they are certainly worth trying first. HTH. Stephen --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Stephen, I just replaced these relays last month in my iX. Qty BMW P# Description MRSP 2 61 36 1 378 238 orange relay: oxygen sensor heater, fuel pump 10.70 1 61 36 1 729 004 white relay: motronic (main / DME) 19.00 Alan -----Original Message----- Subject: E30 Hard Start Relay Part Numbers Hi, Seems some of you have a hard starting problem and want to replace the relays and Gordon is going to post the information to the iX (or should I say Xi ;) web site. So I thought you guys might want the part numbers, especially since they have been superceded. :) Part What was in my car New part number ------------------- ------------------ --------------- Main relay (white) 12.63-1711 266 12.63 1729 004* Bosch Orange relays 0 332 014 456 0 332 019 456 *Siemens V23134-C52-X90 Enjoy. Stephen On 8/6/00 at 11:07 PM, Rob Hatrak <Hatrak@ix.netcom.com> wrote: : I am having a problem with my M3 that my dealer seems to be having : trouble fixing. At random times, the engine will die. It has : happened sitting still, and it has happened at 80 mph on the freeway : (VERY scary). When the engine dies, it will crank strongly but not : start. I have to let it sit for a few minutes and then it will run : for less than 2 minutes before dying again. : : The dealer replaced the fuel pump, fixed a wire they said was pinched : (in the wiring harness that goes to the under-hood diagnostic port), : and replaced my fuel pump fuse. It took the dealer 8 days to : accomplish those tasks, and the car has been fine up until today : (drove it for about 3 days in between). : : Had anyone had a similar experience? If so, I'd greatly appreciate : any help you could offer. If you respond to the digest, please also : CC me so I don't miss anything. : : Thanks in advance, : : Rob : Sin City Chapter : 95 M3 --------------------------------oOo-------------------------------- Stephen Lafredo Philadelphia, PA slafredo@fast.net BMW NCC 97 M3/2 & 89 325ix