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#1. Re: E36 Rear shock mounts - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 16:38:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <clopez95m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: E36 Rear shock mounts Joe Huie wrote: >My RSM are starting to show cracks. Could anyone provide some feedback >about the JT-Designs and Ground Control RSMs (i.e., pros and cons, if >any, between them)? There doesn't seem to be a big difference. We had a couple of issues with our JT mounts. The radius around the part is too large and therefore the flat area on the top is too small (possible sealing issues, but no problems so far). Two, the studs pulled out while torquing them down. Solution, reducing that radius and red LocTite on the threads. If they've addressed those two issues, then I would recommend them (easier to replace the bushing), otherwise go Ground Control. Carlos Motor City Chapter __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Dyno runs of Shark Injected M3 - from Christopher Griffith
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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 19:20:42 -0500 From: "Christopher Griffith" <speedracer@airmail.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dyno runs of Shark Injected M3 Pin, In regards to your dyno runs, the lack of a power increase you were expecting is more likely related to the adaption of the OBD II computer. Adaption is basically the learning period the computer goes through in response to changes in either driving style and/or modifications. I can promise you, it will take longer than 20 minutes for the changes to have an impact. I would give the car two weeks of driving to be sure. Heat soak should not be an issue for your car, maybe on a turbo car, but not yours. I recently had my 97 M3 dynoed at Norwood Auto Craft in Dallas and my second run was within 1 HP of my first with less than five minutes in between the runs. (BTH, 223 HP 225 lb ft at the rear wheels, only modification is ECIS intake) We also had a guy perform the same exact test of dynoing the car, using the shark injector, then immediately redynoing the car. As you experienced, the performance increase wasn't there. Why? The car just needs some time to adapt, it's not as easy as with the OBD I cars. You can read more about what Jim C. has posted in the past in regards to OBD II, adaption, and dynoing OBD II cars in the M Series FAQs/Motronic area of my site www.bmwmseries.com . If after reading this, you still have questions about adaption, feel free to contact me off the digest. Best, Chris Griffith www.bmwmseries.com
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#3. ] Dyno runs of Shark Injected M3 - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 20:18:52 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: ] Dyno runs of Shark Injected M3 Matt, >>Your problem is heat soak. Your dyno results aren't valid. You need to let the engine cool off between runs - at least 5 minutes, preferably 10-20. When I dynoed my Turbo car I let it sit 5 minutes between runs and still dropped 3HP per run. A better way is to spray down the intake plumbing/manifold with NOS between runs. That helps some. << Is this why I always feel, regardless of the outside temperature, the most power when I accelerate when I first take the car out of the garage? Then, after a half hour of driving, if I try and 'feel' the torque as I did when I first took it out, I seem to be missing that awesome 'thrust' feeling I had earlier....Of course, when I combine this with the heat of the day, the effect is compounded. I've been trying to figure out if we with superchargers and no intercoolers feel this effect more than our NA brethren. Either way, the effect is unmistakeable. And must surely be making its presence known during dyno runs as well as through normal driving. _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3; <20000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift Kit and clutch stop; Skaags pedals
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#4. Hunter alignment and question - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 21:58:42 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Hunter alignment and question Hi all, Had the M3 aligned for the first time since the baby was new (almost four years)! Told my trusty BMW mechanic to reduce my understeer (autoxing), but not too radical (save my street tires). So, here are the numbers. Experts, please let me know what to expect at the next autox. Front settings: added the SAE shim washers, changing the camber from -0.4 degrees to -1.1 degrees. Had the toe moved from 0.14 degrees to -0.10 degrees. Total toe at -0.20 degrees. Rear settings: camber left alone at -0.7 degrees (rear tires wear very evenly), and toe set from 0.14degrees (left side), and 0.23 degrees (right side) to 0.00 degrees. Total toe at 0.00 degrees from 0.37 degrees. TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA 1st AS - '97 2nd AS - '98 & '99 mov'in to ESP in '01
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Hunter alignment and question - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 07:52:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Hunter alignment and question How does it feel on the highway? I had a similar alignment on my M3 and found it to be a little too squirrly at speed. After 3 alignments I like: Front: Toe-In : .1 degrees per side, .2 total Camber : -2 Rear: Toe-in : .1 per side Cabmer: -1.75 I found that having 0 toe in the rear made the car a little tough when powering out of turns, esp with the turbo. Toe-out in the front made it feel a little scary at speed. But YMMV. I'm running Eibachs and Biltsteins, stock sways. Your alignment is definatly better for turn-in in autocross. -Matt --- Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: > Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 21:58:42 EDT > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > Subject: Hunter alignment and question > > Hi all, > > Had the M3 aligned for the first time since the baby > was new (almost four > years)! Told my trusty BMW mechanic to reduce my > understeer (autoxing), but > not too radical (save my street tires). So, here > are the numbers. Experts, > please let me know what to expect at the next autox. > > Front settings: added the SAE shim washers, changing > the camber from -0.4 > degrees to -1.1 degrees. Had the toe moved from > 0.14 degrees to -0.10 > degrees. Total toe at -0.20 degrees. > > Rear settings: camber left alone at -0.7 degrees > (rear tires wear very > evenly), and toe set from 0.14degrees (left side), > and 0.23 degrees (right > side) to 0.00 degrees. Total toe at 0.00 degrees > from 0.37 degrees. > > TIA, > > Bob Gill > 97 ///M3 coupe > Philly Region SCCA > 1st AS - '97 > 2nd AS - '98 & '99 > mov'in to ESP in '01 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#6. Re: [E36M3] ] Dyno runs of Shark Injected M3 - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 11:41:31 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] ] Dyno runs of Shark Injected M3 Yup. As the engine warms up, so does the intake manifold. That in turn warms the air going into the engine. The other effect is that when the engine is cold, the computer adds spark timing. As it heats up, the spark timing is removed (to keep detonation away). It's just like when the weather is cooler (like in the winter). Cooler air makes more power due to more oxygen molecules (and more spark timing). Nick > Is this why I always feel, regardless of the outside temperature, the most > power when I accelerate when I first take the car out of the garage? Then, > after a half hour of driving, if I try and 'feel' the torque as I did when I > first took it out, I seem to be missing that awesome 'thrust' feeling I had > earlier....Of course, when I combine this with the heat of the day, the > effect is compounded. I've been trying to figure out if we with > superchargers and no intercoolers feel this effect more than our NA > brethren. Either way, the effect is unmistakeable. And must surely be > making its presence known during dyno runs as well as through normal > driving.
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#7. Louisville? - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 21:03:15 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Louisville? Spent last Wed-Fri in Louisville and I have to go back again tomorrow for several days. Anyone on the list located there? Jim
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#8.Clutch pedal bushings... - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 21:40:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: <E36> Clutch pedal bushings... About a week ago, I tried out someone's car with Ron Stygar's modified clutch pedal. I had been contemplating the upgrade for a while but after dealing with the stereo stuff and wrapping everything up (long story..), I didn't want to spend time with my ribs against my door sills ;) After trying the modified clutch pedal, I just had to have one. I first noticed the side to side slop when I installed my Active Autowerke aluminum pedal covers. After I installed them, you could see that the clutch pedal cover was crooked (you can kind of see it at: <http://www.geocities.com/chester_p_wong/car_audio/everything_in_place.jpg> ). "I thought I attached it straight," I thought to myself when I saw the crooked pedal. Nope...it was the clutch pedal. I further noticed this when I installed UUC's clutch stop. The clutch pedal did not strike in the center of the clutch stop and would instead hit the left side of the clutch stop. "What about squeaks?," you ask? Well, after owning the car for about 3 months with ~4k miles, my clutch pedal starting squeaking like an old door. Pretty annoying and embarrassing for such a nice ride. I raised the issue with my dealer at the next service visit and received my car squeak free, but it smelled like lithium grease in the car. I discovered today how they fixed it...they just sprayed a lubricant all over the place...the stock clutch pedal has grease all over it... YUK! So now Ron's delrin bushing clutch pedal is installed. It strikes dead center on the clutch stop. It's smooooooooooottthhh. It's quiet! And it appears to make the engagement of the clutch more precise meaning that since all the pedal can do is pivot...no side to side slop, no POS slotted bushing compressing or anything like that...there is no sudden angular displacement, for whatever reason, when you release the clutch pedal. So now from a dead stop, I can easily engage first gear more smoothly whereas with the stock setup, you'd have to pay a little more attention. That's my qualitative opinion. Also, now my clutch pedal is parallel to the brake pedal! Overall, it was a very nice upgrade and I highly recommend it. The hardest part will be trying to get the spring back into place. You need to compress it in a vise and use something to hold the coils closed. Ron's page says that using safety wire makes it easier to install....I think it's absolutely necessary in order to install! Well....unless you are He-Man and can compress it while doing the limbo into the driver's footwell. To those who bought aftermarket exhausts: Do you remember how after installing it, you find any opportunity to blip the throttle to listen to the music? Well, I find myself depressing the clutch pedal at red lights night just to revel in how smooth and silent it is! Ron, thanks for a great product! Thanks for the bandwidth, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#9. Priceline gas anyone? - from Brent Williams
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 10:34:33 -0500 From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> Subject: Priceline gas anyone? Has anyone tried the priceline gas card? I just signed up for $1.40 a gallon at my usual station. It seems too good to be true. Whats the deal? This is 93 octane too. Just wondering. I figure it can't hurt anyway. If anyone else has tried it let me know how it went. Brent
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#10. CD Changer - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 23:22:03 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Subject: CD Changer Hello, all, Is there somebody out there who might have a surplus stock 95 M3 CD changer they might wish to get rid of for a fair price? Mine continues to Eject its cartridge at random when starting the engine. Or, does somebody know how to fix this problem? Joe Dyer 95 BMW M3 SF Bay Area