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#1. RE: [E36M3] RE: Potentially (FS) BMW ten double flat spokes - from Wentz, Don
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 13:58:04 -0700 From: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Potentially (FS) BMW ten double flat spokes Rich, I just made that request a few weeks ago, so to save those that were kind enough to reply to me the trouble of replying to you: 5 responses and as I recall: High $900 for a set of 4 Low $575 for a set of 4 (seller felt they SHOULD have asked for more) Average was close to $800 for a set of 4 in good shape (if you throw out the $575) Donna gave some great advice: Take photos and post to a website so shoppers can see them. Let me know if you get any offers, I'm considering selling my set as well. don __ __ / / / / | / | 95 M3 / / / / |/ | Dakar Yellow / / / / | /_/_/_/__/|__/|__| -----Original Message----- From: Dorffer, Rich [mailto:RDORFFER@CleIndians.com] Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 11:18 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] RE: Potentially (FS) BMW ten double flat spokes Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 14:15:01 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: Potentially (FS) BMW ten double flat spokes List, I have some used (five in total) BMW ten double flat spokes (the style from the 95 M3) available. These wheels are 7.5" x 17" and weigh something like 21 lbs. The only history I know of them is they came from a certified 95 M3 which had 60,000 miles. One has a small bend in the outer wheel flange but nothing which could not be straightened (only a cosmetic problem as the tire was still mounted okay, the tire was not damaged and everything balanced properly with a reasonable amount of wheel weight). Overall, the wheels are in reasonably good cosmetic shape (no curb rash and only very difficult to see scratches/marks on the surface of the wheel face) and only minor evidence of use (tire weight removal mark, etc.). Cosmetically, I would say these wheels are about 95% and would make great track wheels or very good street wheels. What would either four (or five) wheels like this be worth in "as-is" condition? I am not certain as to how straight and true they are but they visibly appear to be okay. Digital pictures could be made available (if someone is seriously interested in them) and makes a reasonable offer for the set of four (or five) contingent upon some good digital pictures. Please reply privately. Otherwise, if no one is interested in them in "as-is" status, I may have them inspected (and straightened if necessary) by Wheel Collision Center and then sell afterwards. Best regards, Rich PS - The Wurth paint in the prior post is not necessary for these wheels but for another set I have. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#2. ATFs - from Michael Ting
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:11:22 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: ATFs I'm in the middle of Inspection II, and I need to change my transmission and differential fluid. I have automatic transmission BTW. Should I get Redline, or Mobil 1/Castrol ATFs? If I decide to get the regular ones, should I get Mobil 1 or Castrol? I've been using castrol for my oil changes, so I'm thinking of sticking to the same brand. Besides, I don't really know if they really make a big difference. and how about the Differential Fluid?? Which oil is recommended?? Thanks. Michael Ting -------------------- '95 M3
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#3. RE: [uuc] E36 Rear shock mounts - from Fadeev, Alex
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 16:10:26 -0500 From: "Fadeev, Alex" <alex.fadeev@verizon.com> Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 Rear shock mounts Joe Huie [mailto:jhuie@inreach.com] wrote: > > My RSM are starting to show cracks. Could anyone provide > some feedback about the JT-Designs and Ground Control RSMs > (i.e., pros and cons, if any, between them)? There doesn't > seem to be a big difference. Other people have already commented on the two solutions. Both are similarly designed and priced. Take your pick. > As an alternative, has anyone used the E30 convertible RSM to > replace the E36 RSM? I've heard that it's a good alternative > at a lower price point, as the E30 RSM is especially strong. Joe, The E30 convertible RSM prowess is just an urban legend (IMHO). First of all, E30 RSMs are every bit as weak and disposable as their E36 equivalents. E30 tub is a bit lighter then E36 body, so they last a bit longer (around 50K miles). Second, there is nothing about E30 iC RSMs that would make them a desired upgrade for either E36 or E30 cars. They are 100% identical to non-iC (i/is/_M3_) E30 RSMs save for the side of little nipples that contact the body. On E30 iC mounts, the nipples are longer and thicker which makes E30 iC RSM more giving and long lasting for that plush (heavy) iC ride. In other words, you will trade RSM firmness for longevity with E30 iC rear shock mounts. If it was an upgrade, E30 M3's would have used this part ;-). Not much wrong with performing a down-grade as long as you know what you are getting into. Incidentally, E30 and E36 cost around $15 (if memory serves). E30 iC downgrade is about double that. Get GC or JT mounts if you want an upgrade. Get OE otherwise. > What about the E36 convertible RSM? Is that worth considering? I believe there is only one part # for E36 RSMs (convertible or not). have fun, alex f
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#4. 02 Sensors - from Michael Ting
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:18:26 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: 02 Sensors Hi, I have a question on my '95 M3. The bentley manual says that I need to replace the O2 sensors every 50K. Do I really need to do this?? I don't feel like changing 3 sensors. ($80x3 = $240) BTW, my current mileage is approaching 61K. Thanks, Michael Ting --------------------
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#5. RE: [E36M3] ATFs - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 14:25:08 -0700 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] ATFs > I have automatic transmission BTW. Should I get Redline, or Mobil > 1/Castrol > ATFs? If I decide to get the regular ones, should I get Mobil 1 > or Castrol? > I've been using castrol for my oil changes, so I'm thinking of sticking to > the same brand. Besides, I don't really know if they really make a big > difference. You're right, it probably doesn't make too much of a difference. FWIW, I use Redline. > and how about the Differential Fluid?? Which oil is recommended?? You'll want a 75W90. Again, I use Redline. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - Redline in the crankcase, too :-)
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#6. Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #429 - from Mike Fleischer
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 16:36:20 -0500 From: "Mike Fleischer" <mfle@ti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36M3 #429 Hi, Well I have a second sports car now. I want to get a set of track wheels and tires for the second car. My SO says no can do until I get rid of the first set (for my M3) so I thought I'd offer them up to you guys first: Set of 4 wheels 17x8" Forgeline RSR's (polished finish no centers). The wheels are the 5 spoke design and weigh about 17 lbs each. All are round and in good condition. with Four Hoosier 245/40/17 R3S03's mounted and balanced. The tires consist of two brand new tires (run for one 20 minute session to heat cycle them) One tire about 40% used (run in several sessions) And one corded tire which needs to be replaced (from the right front). Asking $1600 for all four plus shipping, whatever that may cost. I am in the DFW area if that helps. Regards, Mike Fleischer 99 M3/2 91 348ts
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#7. Roommate Wanted for BMW NJ Drivers' School @ Summit Point - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 18:02:00 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmclaughliniii@usa.net> Subject: Roommate Wanted for BMW NJ Drivers' School @ Summit Point I'm looking for a fellow E36M3 list member to split a room for the BMW NJ Drivers' School being held at Summit Point next week on August 21st and 22nd. I already have a room booked in Winchester, VA at the Days Inn at $42 + taxes/night, but I'm willing to split the costs of a room if someone has a room booked somewhere else. Also, on a related note, I am travelling down from Massachusetts on Sunday and was wondering if there was anyone who wanted to caravan down together.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] RE: [uuc] E36 Rear shock mounts - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 18:06:40 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: [uuc] E36 Rear shock mounts "Fadeev, Alex" wrote: > Joe Huie [mailto:jhuie@inreach.com] wrote: > > > > My RSM are starting to show cracks. Could anyone provide > > some feedback about the JT-Designs and Ground Control RSMs > > (i.e., pros and cons, if any, between them)? There doesn't > > seem to be a big difference. > > Other people have already commented on the two solutions. Both are similarly > designed and priced. Take your pick. > > > As an alternative, has anyone used the E30 convertible RSM to > > replace the E36 RSM? I've heard that it's a good alternative > > at a lower price point, as the E30 RSM is especially strong. > > Joe, > The E30 convertible RSM prowess is just an urban legend (IMHO). > First of all, E30 RSMs are every bit as weak and disposable as their E36 > equivalents. E30 tub is a bit lighter then E36 body, so they last a bit > longer (around 50K miles). > Second, there is nothing about E30 iC RSMs that would make them a desired > upgrade for either E36 or E30 cars. They are 100% identical to non-iC > (i/is/_M3_) E30 RSMs save for the side of little nipples that contact the > body. On E30 iC mounts, the nipples are longer and thicker which makes E30 > iC RSM more giving and long lasting for that plush (heavy) iC ride. > In other words, you will trade RSM firmness for longevity with E30 iC rear > shock mounts. If it was an upgrade, E30 M3's would have used this part ;-). > Not much wrong with performing a down-grade as long as you know what you are > getting into. > > Incidentally, E30 and E36 cost around $15 (if memory serves). > E30 iC downgrade is about double that. > > Get GC or JT mounts if you want an upgrade. Get OE otherwise. > > > What about the E36 convertible RSM? Is that worth considering? > > I believe there is only one part # for E36 RSMs (convertible or not). There are actually two rear shock tower mounts on the E36 one of which is also being used on the E46s. For ///M or heavy duty application it is 33 52 1 137 972. For lighter duty and even the E46s they use 33 52 1 092 362. Of course we all know how well the 972s hold up. There is also a TIS bulletin 33 01 96 particular to Z3s for rattling rear shock tower mounts. It says in part: "The correct number on the mount should read 1 137 971. If the number on the mount reads 1 092 362, the mount MUST be replaced with part number 33 52 1 137 972, along with a new gasket, part number 33 52 1 128 734, and a new plate, part number 33 52 1 091 427. Wipe the inside of the rubber boot that goes on top of the upper mount to remove any excess assembly soap solution left from production. Reinstall upper mount to body, and tighten nuts to 22Nm." Notice the "old" part (i.e., the 362 referenced above) and the replacement number 972. Now use the 972 on a heavier car and you see the problem. BMW of Manhattan is doing a ton of these RSMs/week for all these cars - and NOT under warranty I might add. Talk about planned "replacements"!!!! :-) Cheers, Jim E.
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#9. brake pads - from Scott Smith
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:12:22 -0700 From: Scott Smith <ssmith@akamai.com> Subject: brake pads ok I know the topic of brake pads has been beaten to death, but I'd like to resurrect it again: I have been driving on the track in my stock E36 M3 with R4S pads for quite awhile, and they finally wore through. and I figured that out 5:30PM Friday before a track weekend. *sigh*. so I pick up some stock brake pads at a local dealership, remembering that some people said the stock pads were "just fine and better than the crappy R4S pads". btw, I also had my brake fluid flushed from "whatever stock fluid plus a little ATE Super Blue" to Motul 600. you get the impression I take real good care of my car :-) so I change my pads Sat morning and also notice that the dust seal on my front left caliper is sorta coming out. ugh. ok to make a long story short -- I had the worst braking performance of my life at Thunderhill last weekend. It worked well enough for the first couple laps of each session, but after about 10 minutes in 80-100 degree weather, the pads started losing it. Now, I'm not good enough to say "they started fading" or something like that, but this is what I noticed: after 10 minutes I had to press much harder on the pedal to try to get the car to stop, and it didn't seem to stop nearly as well as earlier. I tried to press the pedal repeatedly thinking my fluid might be boiling, but it still didn't stop the car well. Also I noticed a slight vibration, and I wasn't sure if it was my rotors warping or the pads doing something funky. It's not a strong vibration like the last time I warped my rotors... I think this is brake pad fade, but I wanted to check with you guys -- is it? What else should I look at? Do the stock pads fade that much? btw, I had a best lap time of 2:15.13 and 2:15.82, but most were around 2:17.xx, if that gives anyone an indication of how fast I'm going (and therefore how much I'm using the brakes). Perhaps I should just have my rotors checked and the calipers rebuilt and use PF90's from now on.... Scott
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#10. RE: [E36M3] brake pads - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:41:05 -0700 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] brake pads > I think this is brake pad fade, but I wanted to check with you guys -- > is it? Yes, it is. > Perhaps I should just have my rotors checked and the calipers rebuilt > and use PF90's from now on.... In short, yes (again :-)). For the pace you're running, Scott, stock pads will NOT hold up. Get the calipers rebuilt, have the rotors checked to make sure they're true and above minimum, and don't run anything other than PF90s at the track, IMO. (How long have you been on the list, Scott? Have you not heard a word we've said about stock pads at the track for anything other than beginner-level drivers? <BG>). Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 (FWIW, 2:15 at THill is very respectable. See the earlier Club Race results: http://www.bmwccaclubracing.com/00thill1.htm - this weekend's results not posted yet. Also, FWIW, I've run 2:19s last year, haven't been timed yet this year.)
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#11. Re: [E36M3] brake pads - from Scott Smith
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 15:45:51 -0700 From: Scott Smith <ssmith@akamai.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] brake pads > (How long have you been on the list, Scott? Have you not heard a word we've > said about stock pads at the track for anything other than beginner-level > drivers? <BG>). :-) sigh... well when it's either "stock pads" or "don't drive", the choice is clear :-) seriously though, somebody said on one of these lists that stock pads are better than the medium grade pads you can buy, like R4S or Metal Manglers or some others that I don't remember. I had people tell me that the R4S weren't "real" pads and that I should have bought R4 pads instead. hmmm.. well I don't really like changing my pads that much so I wanted one pad that worked for both the street and the track. consensus seems to be that if you can put up with the noise, then get PF90's, which I was *going* to do, but like an idiot I didn't check brake pad thickness last time I was at the track. Scott