E36M3 #457

Wednesday, August 23, 2000 11:23:50

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. RE: CORRECTION (related to How much are Payments on a 330ic?) - from Dorffer, Rich
#2. RE: OnTrack Insurance - from Fadeev, Alex
#3. lowering an M3 - from TheBrinkmans@aol.com
#4. 1998 M3/2 in Canada - from Rob
#5. Lease payments - from chipm@arches.uga.edu
#6. E36 Crash Bolt Opinion (results) - from S Lafredo
#7. Photos of Roll Cage in LTW - from Richard Biscevic
#8. Weight of '95 wheels? - from Peter Guagenti
#9. Re: [E36M3] Weight of '95 wheels? - from Michael Ting
#10. Can anything replace the E36 M3? - from Ben C. Tickner

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#1. RE: CORRECTION (related to How much are Payments on a 330ic?) - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 17:24:07 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: CORRECTION (related to How much are Payments on a 330ic?) I just noticed in my original post I said payments would be $580. That was an error and should have been $550 (or $547.94 to be more exact). I used the proper number in my response to Jim E's response but failed to state it properly in the initial post. My calculations were fine, my fingers are the problem. Bad fingers. Too bad spell check can not correct all of my errors ;-) Clearly I am better at the numbers than typing. I am sorry for the error and any confusion it may have caused. Regards, Rich Going back to lurk mode now. :-(

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#2. RE: OnTrack Insurance - from Fadeev, Alex
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 17:04:22 -0500 From: "Fadeev, Alex" <alex.fadeev@verizon.com> Subject: RE: OnTrack Insurance "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> wrote: > > >$500 is cheap if you have a problem at the track. Hell, you > >can't even replace a bumper cover for $500. > > don't forget though... it's $500 for the coverage and a 20% > deductible. so if you cause $5000 damage, you're still gonna > have to write a check for $1000 for the accident... You gonna have to write a check for all of that $5K of damage (assuming the stated value of your car is $25K or greater). The percentage deductible is based on the percentage of the stated value of the car, not the % of the repair cost. So on a $40K M3 with a 20% deductible coverage, any damage under $8K is paid out of pocket. On the damage above $8K, you pay $8K out of pocket and the rest is covered by the track insurance. IMHO, a lousy deal unless you regularly risk totaling your car... alex f

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#3. lowering an M3 - from TheBrinkmans@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:18:44 EDT From: TheBrinkmans@aol.com Subject: lowering an M3 Ed Tang wrote: Hello all, I am seriously considering the TC Kline Trackline suspension package. It lowers the car 1.5"-2.0" and the spring rate is 25% stiffer than stock. Has anyone had problems clearing a driveway at the grocery store or experienced an untolerable harshness in ride from this setup? I'm more concerned with the height. The only driveway my car doesn't clear is at the Blockbuster Video. After DSS I don't go there anymore. Will a 2" drop make a difference in clearing a pothole? I don't want to damage the side skirt if I hit one. TIA Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 Ed: I didn't use TCs lowering kit, I installed H&R springs and Koni adjustables on my 97 M3. Car handles unbelievably on the track. I bought a Jeep after four months 'cause the ride was so punishing in the M3! I would never recommend changing the suspension unless track driving is REALLY important and a BIG part of your life. It is both for me so I'm glad I did it but I do miss driving the M3 on the street. Whenever I take it out within a day of driving on the street I put it away and drive a different car. I'm fortunate to have the luxury of having different cars to drive. If you always had to drive a lowered M3 on the track you probably will come to regret it (IMHO). Ken Brinkman 97 Silver M3/2, dedicated track car 00 Black 528iT, cruisemobile

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#4.  1998 M3/2  in  Canada - from Rob
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 17:35:10 -0600 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: <FS> 1998 M3/2 in Canada For sale: 1998 M3 2door, 5-speed, Arctic silver, black leather, 55km(35k miles), Harmon Kardon Hi-Fi, 6 CD, factory ///M rear wing, Contour wheels, heated seats, sunroof, split/folding rear seat, etc. Excellent condition, factory warranty, non-smoker, never hit. No GST. Should be easy to export to the US if anyone south of the border is interested. Asking $49,900 Cdn (~$34,500 USD) motor@cadvision.com

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#5. Lease payments - from chipm@arches.uga.edu
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:12:15 -0500 From: chipm@arches.uga.edu Subject: Lease payments

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#6. E36 Crash Bolt Opinion (results) - from S Lafredo
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:11:11 -0400 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: E36 Crash Bolt Opinion (results) Group, Here are the response in the order they were received. Based on these comments, I think I will install the bolts and be yet another data point. I'll take a hit for the group. :O My alignment guy is also a former SCCA type and I am confident in his abilities. If I come back from OFest with a bad alignment it will probably be due to the bolts and not the installation. Famous last words ;) That is, if I don't contact another car, wheel, anything substantial or not. I did sign up for a driving school right?...They keep those competitive types in there own group, right ;) Thank you everyone for your help! Enjoy. Stephen --- "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.comwrote: I installed them, pretty easy. They gave about .5 deg more negative camber (in my 95 AND my buddy's 97). At Heartland Park we experienced 'some' movement in them, appx 30% loss of the additional camber. Overall, they are better than stock camber, but not a good long-term solution for 'tracked' cars on sticky rubber. dw --- BobTunnell@aol.com wrote: I've used crash bolts in E36 BMW's on and off for four years with mixed results. Since the crash bolt is a slightly smaller diameter than the stock, shouldered bolt, it relies on a friction fit between the strut and the hub to maintain the desired camber setting. The body of the bolt itself no longer "locates" the two by precise fit. The degree to which the hub and strut mate and provide adequate friction between the mating surfaces is the degree to which an owner can expect to successfully maintain the desired camber setting. There are two factors that seem to consistently contribute to the components slipping and the camber changing: 1. Frequent deliberate camber changes (e.g. max camber at the track and changing to minimum camber for the trip home) seem to "loosen everything up" and consistent camber settings are soon tough to maintain. 2. Contacting something substantial with the tire/wheel from the side, like another car or curb. When I've installed crash bolts, not readjusted them, and not hit anything, the camber has stayed consistent whether I've been autocrossing or road racing. Hope that helps, Bob --- jbergstrom <john@intellectsys.comwrote: I almost installed them, but a friend with a 328i put them in, and said after an autox they shifted back to "normal". Another friends with a '95 M3 puts them in and "massively over torques" the bolts, says they don't move. But . . . you can only get 1/2 degree more negative max, and even that takes some pulling on the strut with a lot of force before tightening. Just a data point. John '95 M3 --- Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.comwrote: I have had no problem with the crash bolts slipping on my car. However, my alignment technician is a multi-time SCCA Solo II National Champion, so he knows how important it is to not have them slip during competition. On other brands, especially Neons and MR2's, they are notorious for slipping. -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com 1995 BMW M3, SCCA SFR Solo II A-Stock #173 --------------------------------oOo-------------------------------- Stephen Lafredo Philadelphia, PA slafredo@fast.net BMW NCC 97 M3/2 & 89 325ix

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#7. Photos of Roll Cage in LTW - from Richard Biscevic
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:52:05 -0700 From: Richard Biscevic <biscevic@pacbell.net> Subject: Photos of Roll Cage in LTW All- I took some pictures of the roll cage that was installed in my LTW and posted them on a server. In case you are interested in seeing the cage, click on the link below. There are no captions, just photos taken in a somewhat random order. http://www.sic-em.com/stage/m3/m3ltw.html Let me know what you think... -Richard Biscevic

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#8. Weight of '95 wheels? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 08:20:55 -0700 From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Weight of '95 wheels? Anyone know the weight of the factory '95 wheels sans-tires? I'm trying to decide just how useful they can be for auto-x rubber... Any help is greatly appreciated... -peterg

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Weight of '95 wheels? - from Michael Ting
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 09:51:03 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Weight of '95 wheels? I weighed the factory '95 wheel using bathroom scale, with the standard Michelin tires is 43 lbs. Michael Ting --------------------

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#10. Can anything replace the E36 M3? - from Ben C. Tickner
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 12:17:21 -0700 From: "Ben C. Tickner" <ben@infofusion.com> Subject: Can anything replace the E36 M3? Hello All, With all this lease talk going around I got ancy and bought a Z8 yesterday. Check out my new Z8 http://www.bentickner.com/z8 It is definitely not an M3 so I am sorry if this offends anyone on the list. Thought you might be interested I think it is a slight bit faster than my M and those new 330ci. Also their are some pics on the site regarding M3's You just have to go up a level. Ben 95 //M3 cosmos +MODS

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