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#1. Undeliverable: Re: [E36M3] Which differential Lube To Use In 97 M - from System Administrator
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 17:06:25 -0500 From: System Administrator <postmaster@chemsoft.com> Subject: Undeliverable: Re: [E36M3] Which differential Lube To Use In 97 M 3 Your message To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which differential Lube To Use In 97 M3 Sent: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 17:03:19 -0500 did not reach the following recipient(s): rtb@bavarianmachine.com on Wed, 23 Aug 2000 17:06:25 -0500 The recipient name is not recognized The MTS-ID of the original message is: c=US;a= ;p=ChemSoft, Inc.;l=IMC0008232203RPV337NB MSEXCH:IMS:ChemSoft, Inc.:GB_CHEMSOFT:GB_SERVER_CS_B2 3550 (000B099C) 550 unknown user <rtb@bavarianmachine.com>
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#2. RE: [E36M3] RE: List demographics - from MDadgar@handspring.com
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 22:15:47 -0700 From: MDadgar@handspring.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: List demographics Chip wrote: > P.S. - You're not that old - $55-70K *IS* pretty serious money. > That depends entirely on where you live. In the Midwest, for example, it's pretty damned good money. Here in the Silicon Valley, it's poverty level. Literally. ObM3: off to Laguna this weekend. Golden Gate Chapter track events have gotten SERIOUSLY expensive in the last 9 months ($560/weekend for Laguna, $470/weekend for Sears in November). Starting to think about where the break-even point is ... - Mark '95 M3 '97 528i 5-spd '88 M3, Hennarot ---- Mark Dadgar - Product Manager, Accessories (650) 230-5037 voice - (650) 230-2100 fax mdadgar@handspring.com - Handspring, Inc. "wide awake on the edge of the world" - Marillion Check out Visor at www.handspring.com!
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#3. Airbag light stays on - from JLING888
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 22:20:33 -0700 From: "JLING888" <JLING888@email.msn.com> Subject: Airbag light stays on Hello I did some repairs on the driver's seat(luxury edition) . After reintstalling the seat & plugging it back up the airbag light will not turn off. I tried to remove the battery terminal for 5 minutes w/o any results. BTW, the car is a 95' ///M3 luxo edition...no accidents. Any ideas??? TIA Jeff
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#4. re: [E36M3] suspension question reply #3 - from albert jenab
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 05:17:32 -0400 From: albert jenab <jenab@his.com> Subject: re: [E36M3] suspension question reply #3 At 11:42 PM 8/23/00 -0500, Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: >on 8/23/00 20:42, E36M3 at e36m3@bmwmpower.com wrote: > >> Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 18:13:09 -0700 (PDT) >> From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> >> >> Not a problem. This nut isn't under load when the car >> is on the ground. I remove it to change my springs, >> rather than using a compressor (it works..really!). >> You do need a compressor to put the new springs in but >> not to take the old ones off. >> >> One note.. it's a lot easier to get the new nut on >> with an impact wrench. Otherwise you have to use a >> hex driver through a big socket wrench. Not fun.. > >Never, ever, use an impact wrench to tighten the strut shaft nut. You run a >high risk of damaging the ball bearings in the bearing hat. Using the impact >gun to remove the nut is fine. Agreed. Not only that, but some folks who used an impact wrench to tighten the nut on new Bilsteins had the strut shaft snap off. Even less fun. Hand tighten only, even if the strut/spring assembly is off the car. -Al 95 M3
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Rear brake pad wear sensor broken - from Robert Jackowitz
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 08:54:53 -0400 From: Robert Jackowitz <RJackowitz@HARVPART.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear brake pad wear sensor broken Very common occurrence. Only in rare instances have I been able to change pads without sacrificing the wear sensors. You'll notice that the sensor has a small horseshoe shaped metal clip wrapped around it. So long as that clip remains, no idiot light will be tripped. Just tie-wrap the sensor wire to your strut tower to keep it out of the way and monitor your pad wear the old fashioned way. -----Original Message----- From: vernon@sprynet.com [SMTP:vernon@sprynet.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 9:43 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Rear brake pad wear sensor broken Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 21:38:39 -0400 From: vernon@sprynet.com Subject: Rear brake pad wear sensor broken OK, so I'm in the driveway tonight, installing PF90's for a weekend at the track and I totally crumble the rear brake pad wear sensor. I swear I hardly touched it and the damn thing just disintegrated. So, my question is, how necessary is this thing? I started and drove the car for 5 miles or so and no warning lights came on. I'd prefer to just forget about it completely unless it will cause a problem or trip an error code somewhere (my driving requires enough attention as is, all I need is a stupid distraction like that). I'm sure many people have done this before (or am I the only poor sucker?). Ideas? Vern Anderson 98 M3/2 Trying to save precious ounces by ripping sensors off the car.... ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#6. re: [E36M3] suspension question reply #3 - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 06:02:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: re: [E36M3] suspension question reply #3 Okay.. learn something new every day. So, how do you guys hold the strut shaft in place while you tighten the nut? -Matt --- albert jenab <jenab@his.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 05:17:32 -0400 > From: albert jenab <jenab@his.com> > Subject: re: [E36M3] suspension question reply #3 > > At 11:42 PM 8/23/00 -0500, Neil Maller > <neil.maller@gte.net> wrote: > >on 8/23/00 20:42, E36M3 at e36m3@bmwmpower.com > wrote: > > > >> Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 18:13:09 -0700 (PDT) > >> From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> > >> > >> Not a problem. This nut isn't under load when > the car > >> is on the ground. I remove it to change my > springs, > >> rather than using a compressor (it > works..really!). > >> You do need a compressor to put the new springs > in but > >> not to take the old ones off. > >> > >> One note.. it's a lot easier to get the new nut > on > >> with an impact wrench. Otherwise you have to use > a > >> hex driver through a big socket wrench. Not > fun.. > > > >Never, ever, use an impact wrench to tighten the > strut shaft nut. You run a > >high risk of damaging the ball bearings in the > bearing hat. Using the impact > >gun to remove the nut is fine. > > Agreed. Not only that, but some folks who used an > impact wrench to tighten > the nut on new Bilsteins had the strut shaft snap > off. Even less fun. > Hand tighten only, even if the strut/spring assembly > is off the car. > -Al > 95 M3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Kumho V700 Victoracer Pressures - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 06:14:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho V700 Victoracer Pressures Dave, I think that the 40psi-cold recomendation is for AutoX? The hot temps from track driving would result in way too high presure if you start at 40, or maybe even 35. Take tire temps after you warm them up and then try setting to around 40. 35 may feel better but at the expense of longetivity. Also 35 will heat up faster, which could be a problem if you have longer sessions. But the "sweet spot" is somewhere in there - 35-40. -Matt --- Dave Hogg <springwood@BlazeNet.net> wrote: > Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 21:45:23 -0400 > From: Dave Hogg <springwood@BlazeNet.net> > Subject: Kumho V700 Victoracer Pressures > > These tires are rather sensitive to pressures. > After nearly cording > some lovely Hosers in a very short time, I decided > on the Korean rubber > in 225/45-17 on factory 7.5's. Kumho recommends > 35-40 psi cold, closer > to 40 on "heavier" cars like fat M3's. So I ignored > an earlier post to > this list recommending 34, and went 39 all around. > My baby was a > twitchy, squirmy beast! These can't be that much > worse than Hosers, > thought I. Dropped 2 lbs all around for next run, > and things were > better. Down to 35 for the next, and things were > better still. > > Just ran the NJ CCA Summit school at 35 psi cold and > the Koreans felt > very good -- almost like the beloved, gold-leafed > Hosers. Not quite as > solid, with a little tail-waggle under heavy > braking, but tossable and > forgiving once you get used to them. They now have > 3 track days and > they look as if they'll produce at least three more > (heat-cycled). The > Hosers were gone by now (also heat-cycled). Pretty > good value, and > they're quieter and better-riding on the street than > my S02's. Just > another data point; your results may be totally > different, etc. > > Dave Hogg > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#8. RE: Rear Brake pad wear sensor broken - from James MCMillan
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 07:16:13 -0700 From: James MCMillan <jmcmillan994@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Rear Brake pad wear sensor broken As long as the sensor is tied out of the way there will be no problems. James McMillan 97 M3 Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 21:38:39 -0400 From: vernon@sprynet.com Subject: Rear brake pad wear sensor broken OK, so I'm in the driveway tonight, installing PF90's for a weekend at the track and I totally crumble the rear brake pad wear sensor. I swear I hardly touched it and the damn thing just disintegrated. So, my question is, how necessary is this thing? I started and drove the car for 5 miles or so and no warning lights came on. I'd prefer to just forget about it completely unless it will cause a problem or trip an error code somewhere (my driving requires enough attention as is, all I need is a stupid distraction like that). I'm sure many people have done this before (or am I the only poor sucker?). Ideas? Vern Anderson 98 M3/2 Trying to save precious ounces by ripping sensors off the car....
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Airbag alert light - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 09:27:23 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Airbag alert light > yes, I remember something about the airbag light and all and now mine stays > on. I think I shouldn' t have turned the ignition on while the seats were > out. Ooops. So is their any way of fixing this without going to the dealer > to have him reset it or if I do HAVE to go, what is the minimum charge since > it probably will only take them a few minutes to reset the codes. Also, what > are the dangers of running with the light on if any? Bingo, that's known to trigger the airbag idiot light. As I understand it, only the dealer can reset this idiot light. No reset tool that I'm aware of that will take care of this. If the airbag idiot light is on, the airbags should deploy in an accident, but only at the higher deployment speed. The airbags have 2 speeds of deployment, it's controlled by the seat belt sensor - if you're belted in, slow speed, else it's blast your face off. Turning the car on while the seat was out likely signaled a broken seat belt sensor, which in turn trips the airbag idiot light. That's how I understand that whole mechanism, correct me if I'm wrong guys. For reference, my airbag idiot light has been turned on for about 6 months due to a seat belt sensor failing (they're known to do so). Since I only drive my car on the weekends now (generally to autocrosses), I simply put some electrical tape over it. I'll deal with eventually.. Andrej '97 M3
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#10. JTD Tranny Brace - from Lee, Peter
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 09:54:28 -0400 From: "Lee, Peter " <plee@mlundy.com> Subject: JTD Tranny Brace I just had my dealer put it on my M yesterday... I must say, it's pretty damn impressive. I never knew a little brace like that could have so much effect on a car's feel, whether you're moving or revving at idle. More on the *feel* below! My shifts have become much more predictable - I don't know about the rest of you, but there have been times where I sometimes *grind* the gears due to mis-shifting. I hate that sound! Any way, this prevents it all!! Coupled with a SS kit, this is the perfect device to have for those safe *quick* shifts! The feel... When I got into my car and turned it on, I wondered why all the techs at the d-ler were looking at me. Later, I realized they were waiting for my expression when I revved the car (they know how much I love to rev unnecessarily! LOL). When I revved it, a wide grin came across my face and the techs applauded. LOL! The car literally RUMBLES now. It may not be the puuuurfect tune for many of you, but for those in the B&B Triflo/AA Exhaust (@ hi rev's) octave, it's THE ultimate brace to have. The car's vibes run through the frame, including your seat! It's a great feeling! You can't help but rev, rev and rev. With the ass warmers on in the winter, and with your foot on the gas, it'll be one helluva great feeling running through your butt & body. Another benefit of this great device, notwithstanding its hefty price (ka-ching!), is that shifting is much easier now during hard cornering. I dont have the technical A.S.E. explanation for it, but it seems that the E36 M3 shifts differently & less smoothly, if at all, when done while (hard) cornering. But now, it seems that shifting while cornering and shifting while not cornering are nearly identical. Bravo JTD!
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#11. RE:Rear brake pad wear sensor broken - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 10:04:21 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE:Rear brake pad wear sensor broken Vern said> OK, so I'm in the driveway tonight, installing PF90's for a weekend at the track and I totally crumble the rear brake pad wear sensor. I swear I hardly touched it and the damn thing just disintegrated. So, my question is, how necessary is this thing? I started and drove the car for 5 miles or so and no warning lights came on. I'd prefer to just forget about it completely unless it will cause a problem or trip an error code somewhere (my driving requires enough attention as is, all I need is a stupid distraction like that). I'm sure many people have done this before (or am I the only poor sucker?). Ideas? Those wear sensors are only for that, to sense worn out pads and alert you to the situation. Obviously, one per axle was deemed adequate by BMW. I have been advised, due to the sensitivity of these sensors "crumbling", to simply leave them tie-wrapped near the strut when swapping pads for track days and you will switch back to street pads afterwards with the sensors (and their is sufficient track pads left). Basically, these sensors would not be necessary if you monitored your pads as closely as you monitored your tread wear and tire pressure (everyone monitors these closely don't they). But, most people who drive do not monitor their brake pads and need to be warned of their impending failure. Anyway, to get back on point, I pictured myself doing exactly what Vern said so I ordered one front and one rear from Nick Alexander Imports yesterday along with rotors and a lot of other miscellaneous parts I could screw up doing my pads/rotors (i.e., guide bolts, brake clips, dust caps, bleeder nipples, etc.). The front was 34-35-2-227-385 for $10.26 and rear was 34-35-1-181-344 for $8.88 with CCA discount. I do not believe their removal will cause a problem or trip an error code somewhere (like ABS sensors or such) but hopefully another knowledgeable person will respond rather than my ramblings and hearsay. Regards, Rich