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#1. re: WTB: Rear camber adjustment kit for E36M3 - from Ron Katona
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Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 11:59:55 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: re: WTB: Rear camber adjustment kit for E36M3 Jim Powell wrote: > I made some recent suspension changes and lost about a 1/2 degree of > negative camber in the rear that I need to get back. Hey, I recently made some suspension changes and gained about 1/2 degree negative camber in the rear that I'd like to get rid of. Wanna trade? <g> Seriously, did you raise the car? I'm finding it difficult to dial out enough camber (less than -2.0) from the rear with the car lowered 1" from stock. I'd love to hear suggestions on how to deal with that. -- Ron Katona
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#2. Re: Here's another opinion you might want to hear..... - from Captain Hags
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Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 12:34:09 EDT From: "Captain Hags" <captainhags@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Here's another opinion you might want to hear..... Hi, My name is Chris Hagedorn and my M3 is named Claudia, I think it is fitting. Anyway, I am ony looking to sink about $250 into her right now. I thought that a chip would be the best upgrade for that money, but if you have any ideas in the realm of handling of whatever,please let me know. Thanks, Chris Totally stock '95 M3, Dakar yellow _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Re: Here's another opinion you might want to hear..... - from juan_rico
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Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 09:53:45 -0700 From: "juan_rico" <juan_rico@captionsinc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Here's another opinion you might want to hear..... Get an X-brace. That's the best upgrade for that money. Just a chip in my very honest opinion is a total waste of money. I've had 3 on my car and never noticed a difference. What a marketing fraud... If you combine them with a different intake or with a turbo car, that's a different story. But then it'll cost you way more than $250. Best upgrade on my car? My Hamman exhaust. Juan (whose spent way more than $250 on chips...) -----Original Message----- From: Captain Hags [mailto:captainhags@hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 9:38 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: Here's another opinion you might want to hear..... Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 12:34:09 EDT From: "Captain Hags" <captainhags@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Here's another opinion you might want to hear..... Hi, My name is Chris Hagedorn and my M3 is named Claudia, I think it is fitting. Anyway, I am ony looking to sink about $250 into her right now. I thought that a chip would be the best upgrade for that money, but if you have any ideas in the realm of handling of whatever,please let me know. Thanks, Chris Totally stock '95 M3, Dakar yellow _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#4. FS: Dinan CF CAI - from Rob Birkhead
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Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 10:12:58 -0700 From: Rob Birkhead <rbirkz@earthlink.net> Subject: FS: Dinan CF CAI I am selling my Dinan CF intake. It has been on my car for about 6 mos/10,000 miles. Everything is in perfect shape, no crack or bubbles in CF. Comes complete w/ all hardware. Price is $350 and I am in the Bay Area. Email privately if interested. Robert Birkhead
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#5. Re:New T-Hook source (long reply) - from BobTunnell@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 15:39:21 EDT From: BobTunnell@aol.com Subject: Re:New T-Hook source (long reply) Someone on the list (I missed the original post) apparently asked about tow hooks and Peter Reinhart suggested me as a source. I've been selling sets of T-hooks ($45) for a couple years as a service to other BMW owners as they are, or at least have been, very hard to find. Rich Gay posted Northern Tool Supply (http://www.northerntool.com) as an alternate source and I checked them out. I feel compelled to offer these thoughts: 1) Their price is fantastic -- almost *half* of what I buy them for and I've been buying them in bulk! 2) Their description doesn't say whether they're true Grade 7 (3900-pound working limit) hardware or not, but they *look* exactly like the ones I've been getting. I suspect they're the same thing since, but you'll have to verify that with NTS. 3) T-hooks are fairly simple to use, but there are a few tricks to using them *properly.* NTS does not supply instructions, especially as they pertain to BMW's. I include a printed set with each set, but I also provide them free of charge on my website at tunnellracing.com. Feel free to download them or copy them, but please *use* them! 4) One thing you'll notice in my instructions is that when using T-hooks, it's possible the hook on your tow strap may contact your gas tank (a very bad thing). I include two split links with sets of hooks that rotate the hook away from the tank preventing contact. So if you buy hooks from NTS, please check to be sure your hooks don't rub on your gas tank, and if they do go to the hardware store and buy two 3/8" split links (about $1.50 each) to instal between your strap hook and the T-hook. 5) Please don't try to save even more money and only buy two hooks. The *best* way to tie down your car is with *four* hooks and crisscross your four straps to triangulate the load. I've had two customers flip trailers in the last couple years and their cars were left hanging suspended inside with minimal damage because they secured them properly. Amazing what the right tools and proper procedures will do! I really don't care if everyone buys T-hooks from NTS in the future and downloads the instructions from my website. It'll put me out of the T-hook business, but I've been doing it far more as a service than as a money maker anyway. I make about $3-4 per set and frankly, I'd just as soon see the "business" go away. I'll continue to offer the complete "kit" with 4 hooks, 2 split links, and instructions for $45 for those that like the convenience of buying everything they need in one kit, knowing they're getting "the right stuff," or paying by check. I'll also buy a hook from NTS and if it's the same quality as the one's I've been getting, I'll buy from them and begin offering my kits for less money if anyone is still interested. Bottom line -- you won't be hurting my feelings if you buy from NTS. Just *PLEASE* download my instructions and tie down your car properly!! --Bob PS. I'll be in Topeka at the ProSolo and Solo II National Championships September 8-15. Please stop by my trailer (next to the Koni truck in the paddock) and say Hi!
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#6. Audio Question - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 21:10:18 -0700 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@pluris.com> Subject: Audio Question What are the best upgrades to do for the audio on a 95 M3 while keeping the head unit and the newly purchased 6CD changer? I figure I can swap the speakers with better units, but does it make sense to swap out the amp and possibly put a subwoofer in. Thanks Bora ps. I am going to autoX my M3 for the first time tomorrow see how it does compared to my old car (Porsche 928S4).
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#7. Which M3 Year is best? - from Keith Tsang
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Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 03:49:24 -0700 From: "Keith Tsang" <ktsang1@uclink4.berkeley.edu> Subject: Which M3 Year is best? Hello, I'm in the market for a used M3 and was wondering which year M3 is the best. I had read an article in Road and Track recently about used M3's and they suggested the 97 and newer models due to their stronger mid range torque, however, I've heard from others in this mailing list the 95's are better. Another concern for me also is the reliability, since from the research I've done it looks like the 97's tend to be more reliable. Any inpus would be greatly appreciated. Keith
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#8. WOB Yosemite - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 08:17:29 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: WOB Yosemite Can some of the GGC members who may have experience staying in or around Yosemite drop me a line? I have an October track date that the pit bunny (no, not that one, mine) wants to combine with a long weekend of site seeing. Jim
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Which M3 Year is best? - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 08:41:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which M3 Year is best? Keith, Are you planning on modifying your M3? Want to put a Turbo or Supercharger on it? If so then you will likely have best results with a clean, low milage '95. Otherwise it probably makes sense to get the newest, cleanest example that you can afford. IMO, with the exception of the rather inexpensive waterpump, the '95's are every bit as realiable as the newer models. But they are older so things are more likely to break. The newer models do have features that you may find desirable - side airbags, Traction Control, Lighted Shift Knob, etc that you may find desirable. Personally I bought a '95 because I wanted to turbocharge it. I've found my car to be very reliable. The only mechanical failure I've had is that the passenger seat no longer moves forward with the side lever. just my .02.. -Matt --- Keith Tsang <ktsang1@uclink4.berkeley.edu> wrote: > Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 03:49:24 -0700 > From: "Keith Tsang" <ktsang1@uclink4.berkeley.edu> > Subject: Which M3 Year is best? > > Hello, I'm in the market for a used M3 and was > wondering which year M3 is > the best. I had read an article in Road and Track > recently about used M3's > and they suggested the 97 and newer models due to > their stronger mid range > torque, however, I've heard from others in this > mailing list the 95's are > better. Another concern for me also is the > reliability, since from the > research I've done it looks like the 97's tend to be > more reliable. Any > inpus would be greatly appreciated. > > Keith > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#10. Going off Trainee Status and my dealer experience (long) - from Aswtguy2c@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 12:03:01 EDT From: Aswtguy2c@aol.com Subject: Going off Trainee Status and my dealer experience (long) Hey Bimmerheads, Well, this is going to be hell week for me. As most of you know, I graduated from BMW STEP (Service Technician Education Program) last June and got a job at United BMW in Duluth, GA. I've been on a trainee status and pay since July 17th. This week they're going to put me on the line and this means I'll be getting paid as a Level 1 Technician ($4 raise) BUT I'll be getting paid on commission now instead of hourly. I still lack tools compared to the other technicians in the shop but I've already spend about $4300 in a Snap-On box, tools, and half of my hand tools are Facom. Thanks Steve D. from Ultimate Garage! I've been working with a technician on his side but recently I've been doing work on my own. Usually basic service stuff and some diagnosing and doing lots of recalls. I just love the coolant recalls (17 02 93, 17 03 93, etc.) especially when the engine is HOT! I never had so many cuts on my hands and arms before and hand muscles get tensed up by the end of the day. I know that most people think that dealers are stealers and rip you off. Who's fault is this? The President of the dealer, the service adviser, the service manager, the shop foreman, or the technician? I'm not the kind of person that would write up an estimate on a part that doesn't need replacement. I find it hard to satisfy customers when working on their cars and usually end up getting a low CSI (Customer Service Index) score. Most of the time when that happens it is the technicians fault either because he left some greasy spots in the interior, took too long on the job, or didn't fix/repair the problem. I always try to clean up whatever mess I made and fix the problem right but there are times where my service adviser comes up to me and says "How much more time? The customer is getting impatient!" Then I start rushing a bit and I'll miss something like wiping off dirt, I concentrate more on replacing a part now, how pissed of the customer is, and how a low CSI score I'll be getting. Most people don't know but CSI score gives the service adviser and technicians bonus money. So what I'm basically focusing now is to fix the car right the first time all the time, to satisfy the customers, and to help the digest listers (that's all of you) with what I can unless that is till BMWNA tells me not to post info. here and on bimmer.org. I know I lack the experience from a Master Tech like Mr. Brett Anderson but in a few years I'll get there. Heck I'm only 20 years old and I do plan on staying on this industry till I get burned out... whenever that is. Happy ///Motoring! Jonathan Caldito BMW Level 1 Technician