E36M3 #499

Friday, September 08, 2000 07:19:27

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. 95 M3 Supercharger - from Ben C. Tickner
#2. Air Intake Temperature Sensor - from LHassig@aol.com
#3. Re: [E36M3] Air Intake Temperature Sensor - from Matt Henson
#4. Re: [E36M3] Air Intake Temperature Sensor - from Jason Bishop
#5. Changed rear pads and rotors--now rear wheels grabbing - from Pieter Van Dien
#6. Re: Spearco Again (real long, sorry) - from Paul England
#7. Re: [E36M3] tilt wheel - from Jim Powell
#8. Re: [E36M3] Who are you calling a bunny!? - from Jim Powell
#9. UUC Motorwerks - from SeaUinOC@aol.com
#10. E36 UUC Exhaust and H&R Springs - from Will Land
#11. Re: OTC floor jack for M3 usage - from Neil Maller

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#1. 95 M3 Supercharger - from Ben C. Tickner
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Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 21:59:53 -0700 From: "Ben C. Tickner" <ben@infofusion.com> Subject: 95 M3 Supercharger Is anybody interested in selling a supercharger kit that fits the 95 M3? I found one used kit for 3500.00. Is it best to purchase new or can I get away with a used forced induction kit? Ben 95 M3

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#2. Air Intake Temperature Sensor - from LHassig@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 22:14:47 EDT From: LHassig@aol.com Subject: Air Intake Temperature Sensor Folks, Where is it? The air intake sensor, I mean. My (un)trusty Bentley manual says/shows that its in the "top section of the air filter housing." Not on my '95 M3, or I'm blind. I've got a 1224 fault code, which points to this sensor circuit. If I can find it, I think I can fix the problem. Incidentally, much thanks to Mr. Conforti's web site, where I found the instructions for getting the CHECK ENGINE light to cough up the fault code and the table translating the code into actionable English. Also, incidentally, the operative word in JC's instructions for inducing the CHECK ENGINE light to flash the fault code is "immediately." You need to depress the accelerator five times IMMEDIATELY after turning on the ignition. Thanks, Lee

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Air Intake Temperature Sensor - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 19:32:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Air Intake Temperature Sensor There are three air temp sensors: Driver's side brake duct - OBC temp display Passenger side brake Duct - DME Ambient air temp Underside of intake manifold, towards firewall (near the throttle body on the bottom of the main plenum) - Manifold temp sensor. I would guess that your problem is with one of the last two. -Matt --- LHassig@aol.com wrote: > Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 22:14:47 EDT > From: LHassig@aol.com > Subject: Air Intake Temperature Sensor > > Folks, > > Where is it? The air intake sensor, I mean. My > (un)trusty Bentley manual > says/shows that its in the "top section of the air > filter housing." > > Not on my '95 M3, or I'm blind. > > I've got a 1224 fault code, which points to this > sensor circuit. If I can > find it, I think I can fix the problem. > > Incidentally, much thanks to Mr. Conforti's web > site, where I found the > instructions for getting the CHECK ENGINE light to > cough up the fault code > and the table translating the code into actionable > English. > > Also, incidentally, the operative word in JC's > instructions for inducing the > CHECK ENGINE light to flash the fault code is > "immediately." You need to > depress the accelerator five times IMMEDIATELY after > turning on the ignition. > > Thanks, > Lee > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Air Intake Temperature Sensor - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 19:46:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Air Intake Temperature Sensor On Thu, 7 Sep 2000, Matt Henson wrote: > Passenger side brake Duct - DME Ambient air temp so *thats* what that is. I knocked mine off a while back and I haven't put it back on yet. Shouldn't the DME be complaining at me about that? opps. Jason

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#5. Changed rear pads and rotors--now rear wheels grabbing - from Pieter Van Dien
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Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 23:44:55 -0400 From: "Pieter Van Dien" <pvd1@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Changed rear pads and rotors--now rear wheels grabbing I just finished changing my rear pads and rotors. A brief test drive confirmed the brakes are dragging the rear wheels, more so on the left than the right. The instructions I was following did not mention adjusting the parking brake which I have not done. I am not sure if this is a parking brake adjustment problem or a fitment problem between the new rotors and pads. The rotors are BMW and the pads are Pagids. Any suggestions? Does any one know how to adjust the parking brake, the Bentley doesn't describe it well. Alternatively, is there a way to disconnect the parking brake temporarily to see if that is the problem? Piete

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#6. Re: Spearco Again (real long, sorry) - from Paul England
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Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 00:04:00 -0400 From: "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Spearco Again (real long, sorry) Sorry for the WOB, but I'll respectfully disagree with you on a few of your conclusions. See below: > plug-n-play. There is quite a bit of fiddling to get > it right. Yes.. This can be true but is not necessarily so. *...* Getting the power from a Turbo or SC can can be just as simple as plugging it in. The drop in intake temps are all you need to increase power. **Except too much water and it can condense in your cylinder, and since water doesn't compress real well, bad things can happen.** > WI can be cool, but do you really want to refill that tank > every few hours? Not if you have a reasonably sized tank. A 1 Gal tank will last about as long as 1 tank of fuel, under *...* So a SC car has to be above around 5k and WOT to spray. **Except the Spearco tank is less than one gallon; actually even less than a half gallon. My car is at WOT a whole lot. My grandmother's Camry isn't...** > Also, your ECU needs time to readjust when the system goes > offline (empty tank) so you run the risk of leaning out. You should never lean out as a result of WI. It doesn't spray fuel so the mixture doesn't change. If you're running a turbo car then the boost controller can drop pressure if the system malfunctions (ie out of water). **Except that an adaptive ECU (like virtually every modern car) senses via the O2 sensor the Stoich state of tune and adjusts over time sort of learning it's way. Notice if you drive your car up to a higher elevation, it's pretty wimpy for a while until the ECU can retune for it. When you run out of water, you're out immediately so that extra air from it being denser can cause havoc while the ECU 'learns'. Come to think of it, that would be over-rich in the meantime, but the reverse is true: If the WI is too effective too soon, it can cause a lean condition as the ECU struggles to figure it out. Anyway, care should be taken regardless.** > On your Dinan SC kit, I'd actually recommend going with a Spearco Air/Water *...* >Your only other option is to add > an Air/Air IC up front and bend the piping to fit, but then you have to > pressurize A LOT of tubing to get the air there, so it'd be a bit laggier than > your current setup. 2) It is a common misconception that increasing the volume of the plumbing increases lag. I believe this to be completly untrue. It takes almost no time to pressurize the small volume in your intake compared to the amount of air that's running through the engine. You can get into trouble if the piping that you use is too small, creating a pressure drop. This increases lag and hurts performance and efficiency. But it's not caused by too much pipe - it's too little, really. **Nope. It does. Put a balloon over your wedding ring and blow it up. Now put a balloon over the end of a garden hose. Which was harder to blow up? I agree with you about the _diameter_ of the tubing, but not the length. There is simply a volume of air that has to be brought up to a pressure. The larger the column of air (longer pipe) the more air that has to be pressurized to make X lbs of boost at the manifold. How long do you hold the compressor hose on a bike tire to get it to 30psi? Now how about a Peterbilt tire? You talk about the amount of air running through the engine compared to what's in the pipe? The difference between those numbers is measured as boost. That is the essence of how forced induction works.**

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#7. Re: [E36M3] tilt wheel - from Jim Powell
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Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 21:09:49 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] tilt wheel Run, Andy, Run. Jim andy radin wrote: > > Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 15:57:10 -0700 > From: "andy radin" <fourfa@mindspring.com> > Subject: tilt wheel > > are the tilt-wheel retrofit instructions still available anywhere? Jim P's > and Suzy's sites no longer have detailed instructions, just an overview and > parts list. I was feeling especially masochistic today, and wanted to thumb > through them again. thanks. > > andy r. > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Who are you calling a bunny!? - from Jim Powell
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Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 21:12:28 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Who are you calling a bunny!? Oh man, I've created a monster here. :) Jim twisty M3 wrote: > > Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2000 16:54:48 PDT > From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Who are you calling a bunny!? > > Of course it would be worth the 8-hr drive, if not just to see you... > Unfortunately, I think I have to work that day. ;-) I didn't get the lines > yet anyway, so maybe next time? > > Jonathan > > >I'd still help you install your brake lines. > >Just come up to Thill and we'll work while we watch the Seattle contingent > >break their cars (what, it's not worth an 8-hr drive?). > > > >Donna > >0=00=0 > >http://www.stopyoucold.com > > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > http://profiles.msn.com. > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************

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#9. UUC Motorwerks - from SeaUinOC@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 00:54:16 EDT From: SeaUinOC@aol.com Subject: UUC Motorwerks Hi Everyone! I am considering a UUC Competition Evo ERK/Delrin Bushings Ultimate Short Shift Kit and System*U exhaust for my 1999 M3. What are some of the advantages and disadvantages to each? What else on the market, in the same price range, compares to these products? My vehicle is a daily driver that I also use for Autocross and High-Performance Drivers' Schools. On a different note, the BMW Performance Center in Spartanburg, SC will be offering a M High Performance Driving School in the Fall. It involves driving the M Roadster, M Coupe, M5, and E46 M3 around the autocross circuit, skidpad, and at the nearby Michelin Testing Facility. The school is 2 1/2 days long and will be priced around $1000.00. The phone number to call for more information is: 888-345-4269. Thanks for your recommendations and comments! Hope you all had a great Summer! Dean N. Simpkins (Filling Juan's seat on the CART Target/Ganassi Team) Ocean City, MD

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#10.  E36 UUC Exhaust and H&R Springs - from Will Land
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Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 08:12:07 -0400 From: "Will Land" <wland@erols.com> Subject: <FS> E36 UUC Exhaust and H&R Springs 1) UUC System U exhaust- already "broken in" with 1500 miles on it. For sale for the low price of $500 plus shipping. 2) Front and rear H&R "Sport" Springs #29910 for the 1995 E36 M3. Springs are in great condition and have less than 10,000 miles on them. $125 plus shipping for these. MD/VA/DC residents might want to actually pick these up themselves and save the freight. Thanks Will 1998 M3/4 Cosmos Black/Black

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#11. Re: OTC floor jack for M3 usage - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2000 07:18:22 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: OTC floor jack for M3 usage on 9/7/00 20:28, Rich wrote: > Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 17:27:39 -0400 > From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> > > The big tip off to > know if your Lincoln model is USA made or not is the handle. The USA made > ones are one-piece and the Taiwan made models are two-piece (knock down for > shipping purposes). I own two of the Lincoln Model USA 2000 floor jacks. Both are USA made, and both have 2 piece handles. Neil 96 M3

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