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#1. Re: [E36M3] AIT Sensor (again) [and again] - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 15:59:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] AIT Sensor (again) [and again] Hi, Yep. It is the thermo switch that allows warm coolant to circulate around the throttle body in sub-freezing temps. I guess you could call it a sensor but not in the electrical sense. Anyway, I think we've got it figured out now... To the origional poster: It looks like your code is related to the electrical intake temp sensor located on the intake manifold. So the M3 has 6 temperature sensors: OBC outside temp Heated accessory freezing switch Throttle heating temp switch DME manifold temp Drivers and Psssenger side Climate control sensors? Anyone else notice that the OBC sensor gets off above 100? Mine reads about 4 degrees high. -Matt --- LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 00:54:17 EDT > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] AIT Sensor (again) [and again] > > I'm with Paul on this one. I think we are splitting > hairs. :-) My '95 M3 > has a "thingamajig" stuck in the air box. I don't > know for sure what it does > but it is an impressive looking thing. It has two > good sized hoses running > to it. I assume it measures the incoming air > temperature based on its > location. Right? > > Anyway, I'm not William Webster but I'd say a > "thingamajig" that measures > incoming air temperature and controls another device > is an "air temperature > sensor." Oh all right. It is "the incoming air > temperature thermo couple > that controls coolant flow to the throttle body to > ensure that the engine > runs smooth during cold weather start ups." Whew! > Or "air temperature > sensor" for short. > > Matt says the air temperature sensor for the DME is > located under the intake > manifold. Sounds good to me. How many total air > temperature sensors are > there on the M3? > > As for the air temperature sensors in the brake > ducts? Yep, the driver's > side one is the read out for the OBC. If you > disconnect it or loose it in an > impact, your OBC will read -37 or something like > that. And I think the > silver dollar looking round sensor in the passenger > side brake duct controls > the heated door locks, heated windshield washer > nozzles, and heated outside > mirrors. I think all the E36 M3's except for maybe > some of the very early > models have heated door locks and mirrors. And for > some reason I think the > '95 M3 does NOT have heated washer nozzles. I think > heated washers came in > '96? > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#2. Issues at the track - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:28:36 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Issues at the track Matt, >>I learned most of this by trial and error. Once I was armed with a G-tech and cartest it was much less painful. << Ah, Cartest! are you referring to the pc program which estimates launch techniques, and drag times? Ever notice how it says to drop clutch at somewhere < 2K for the best times? I dont think that'll hold up on the strip. >>You'll probably get the best 1/4 mile time with a 2900-3200RPM launch, at least with street tires. Just drop the clutch. If you start to slip the clutch on the launch it will usually slip all the way through the gear, causing excessive wear and high times. << Definitely agree here....But let me ask you about the most efficient 1 to second shift....I seem to have turned my best 0-60 times, ie < 5.00 sec, as measured by consistant use of the gtech pro by powershifting....However, I hate the slip....When you even do a 1/4 - 1/2 throttle lift powershift, the clutch just wants to slip all the way to the rev limiter. I'd much rather get 3/4 off the gas, do a quick ram into second, and get back off the clutch asap....It'll sure save the clutch from that powershifting stuff, but I have a feeling the times will suffer a bit. What do you think about that crucial shift... thanks. _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3; <20000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift Kit and clutch stop; Skaags pedals
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#3. sporadic rotor warpage?? - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:42:28 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: sporadic rotor warpage?? This is a new one on me....Over the last few hundred miles or so, I've noticed a pulsing in the steering wheel between 60 and 70 mph only when braking.....I've assumed I've warped one or both of the front rotors. BTW, I'm running stock original rotors, with Rotex semi metallic pads up front. Last week, I did some 0-60 timed (gtech) runs. I have a long flat, where I can run several in a row....Anyway, this naturally led to bursts of speed followed by braking down in a hurry, to set up for the next run....This produced some minor fade...However, later on, after things settled down, I noticed that, for some reason, this symtompatic warpage seemed to disappear! Now, I've driven several days since this occurred, and the pulsation has yet to reappear!! Is it possible I had accumulated some material, unseen by me, which the fade behavior managed to cook off or remove? Or is it possible that during the fade behavior, the rotors realligned themselves back to true? I know its not likely, but Im at a loss to explaing the seeming disappearance of what I thought was warpage...thanks. _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3; <20000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift Kit and clutch stop; Skaags pedals
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#4. Warped or... ? - from David Hogg
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Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 20:53:47 -0700 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: Warped or... ? Oh strong one, Jack the front of your car up and see if you can wiggle the top of the wheel. Don't tear it off, just wiggle it (ever seen Jonathan?). If it wiggles in and out, it's got a bad wheel bearing. That could be the cause of the greasy substance: puked-out grease from when the hub ass'y gives out. If so, it would also have been slimy on the front of the wheel, assuming you run without hubcaps. And the driving symptoms can be what you describe. Dave Hogg Summit kills my LF bearings annually.
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#5. Pro Solo Final Results - from Ron Katona
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Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 21:53:46 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Pro Solo Final Results Congratulations to Bob and Patty Tunnell who drove their '95 M3 to national Pro Solo championships today in the ESP and Ladies 2 categories: <http://www.scca.org/amateur/prosolo2/2000/topeka/results.html>! -- Ron Katona
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Pro Solo Final Results - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2000 19:16:59 -0700 From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Pro Solo Final Results > Congratulations to Bob and Patty Tunnell who drove their '95 M3 to > national Pro Solo championships today in the ESP and Ladies 2 > categories: Woo-hoo! Congrats Bob! -p
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#7. That pesky AIT sensor! - from LHassig@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:33:48 EDT From: LHassig@aol.com Subject: That pesky AIT sensor! Folks, Thanks for all your input, but I'm still confused. I'm looking for the AIT sensor that triggers a 1224 fault code. On my '95 M3 (6/94 build), there are no wires leading to the air box. (I even took out the filter element to make sure the sesnor wasn't hidden in the bottom of the air box.) On the rear bottom, there appears to be a rubber tube, but that's not electrical and probably is unrelated to the sensor. Down stream of the air box, in the duct leading to the air mass sensor, there is a huge item with wires leading to it. However, it bears no resemblance to the AIT sensor shown in the Bentley manual. The temperature sensor in the intake manifold seems too far downstream to measure air temperature at intake, inasmuch as the intake manifold becomes hot during operation. So the questions remain: Which sensor generates the 1224 fault code and where !@#$ is it? (I sure wish Jim Conforti were still tuned into this list. I'm certain that he must know the answer.) Thanks to all....and to all a good night. Lee
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#8. tire/wheel fit question - from russell
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Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:47:32 -0700 (PDT) From: russell <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: tire/wheel fit question I'm getting ready to order some new wheels & tires from tire rack and was wondering if anyone is already using the same setup that i'm looking to get: ATP Type 5 wheels-the M-Contour look-a-likes (17 x 8.5 all around) with Kumho ECSTA Supra 712 tires (245/40)? Will this setup fit on the front? Tire Rack already cautioned me that it might not fit, so I'm hoping that someone here is using this setup without any problems. Also, any opinions on the 245/40 vs 245/45? I'm not sure which one to get, but want the same size tire/wheel setup all around. BTW, the cost for this entire setup (mounting, balancing, delivery) is about $1250....not too bad for wheels and tires. thanks, russell 99 dakar ===== "...extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice, moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue."--bg __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#9. Re: [E36M3] That pesky AIT sensor! - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 19:50:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] That pesky AIT sensor! I'm pretty sure it's the one in the intake manifold. There aren't any codes for a sensor labled "Manifold temp" or anything like that. I think the disconnect is in the name "intake temp." It could be considered to mean "intake manifold" temp. Finally, I did get this code once before (I didn't recognize it by number but after re-reading the list I'm sure this is what it was) and it was caused by this sensor being disconnected. -Matt --- LHassig@aol.com wrote: > Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 22:33:48 EDT > From: LHassig@aol.com > Subject: That pesky AIT sensor! > > Folks, > > Thanks for all your input, but I'm still confused. > I'm looking for the AIT > sensor that triggers a 1224 fault code. On my '95 M3 > (6/94 build), there are > no wires leading to the air box. (I even took out > the filter element to make > sure the sesnor wasn't hidden in the bottom of the > air box.) On the rear > bottom, there appears to be a rubber tube, but > that's not electrical and > probably is unrelated to the sensor. > > Down stream of the air box, in the duct leading to > the air mass sensor, there > is a huge item with wires leading to it. However, it > bears no resemblance to > the AIT sensor shown in the Bentley manual. > > The temperature sensor in the intake manifold seems > too far downstream to > measure air temperature at intake, inasmuch as the > intake manifold becomes > hot during operation. > > So the questions remain: Which sensor generates the > 1224 fault code and where > !@#$ is it? > > (I sure wish Jim Conforti were still tuned into this > list. I'm certain that > he must know the answer.) > > Thanks to all....and to all a good night. > > Lee > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: Issues at the track - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 20:11:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Issues at the track Hi Paul.. --- Paul Elliott <pelliott@rcn.com> wrote: > Matt, > > >>I learned most of this by trial and error. > Once I was armed with a G-tech and cartest it was > much > less painful. << > > Ah, Cartest! are you referring to the pc program > which estimates launch > techniques, and drag times? Ever notice how it says > to drop clutch at > somewhere < 2K for the best times? I dont think > that'll hold up on the > strip. > Hmm.. I plugged in my dyno numbers and it said to launch at 3k via clutch dump. It has a lot to do with which coefficient of friction you plug in for the tires. And rear end ratio. > >>You'll > probably get the best 1/4 mile time with a > 2900-3200RPM launch, at least with street tires. > Just > drop the clutch. If you start to slip the clutch on > the launch it will usually slip all the way through > the gear, causing excessive wear and high times. << > > Definitely agree here....But let me ask you about > the most efficient 1 to > second shift....I seem to have turned my best 0-60 > times, ie < 5.00 sec, as > measured by consistant use of the gtech pro by > powershifting....However, I > hate the slip....When you even do a 1/4 - 1/2 > throttle lift powershift, the > clutch just wants to slip all the way to the rev > limiter. I'd much rather > get 3/4 off the gas, do a quick ram into second, and > get back off the clutch > asap....It'll sure save the clutch from that > powershifting stuff, but I have > a feeling the times will suffer a bit. What do you > think about that crucial > shift... > If your clutch is slipping then it's probably not worth the extra wear just to get a number. Unless you're planning on upgrading to a stronger clutch soon anyway. Maybe my powershift isn't perfect but I don't get any clutch slip. Also, if the clutch slips much you're just putting your power into heating it up. Not good for times. So if you want to maxamize longetivity and performance, you probably want to minimize the clutch slipping. But then again I'm the guy who only got a 13.7 with an AA turbo ;-). > thanks. > _____________________________ > Paul Elliott > '99 Alpine White M3; <20000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; > Rotex pads; Dinan Stage > II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift Kit and clutch > stop; Skaags pedals > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/