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#1. Re: [E36M3] Fuel Leak - from Aswtguy2c@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 20:40:31 EDT From: Aswtguy2c@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fuel Leak Last week I had a similar complaint. Customer stated that after 50miles the gauge would be 1/2 tank and had a strong gas smell. I checked the basics like looking underneath the car and doing a visual inspection of the fuel tank, and fuel lines.. everything ok. I suspected it would be the sending units so I removed the rear seat and removed the passenger side cover for the pump/sending unit.. everything looked ok. Checked the drivers side sending unit.. JACKPOT, fuel sitting on top of the unit. The cause was a crack in the plastic lines. What actually happened was that when the pass. side starts getting low, the drivers side sending unit has lines and transfers fuel to the other side. The fuel of course was leaking thru the crack. I wish I took a picture of it before throwing it away. Jonathan Caldito
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#2. Nick Alexander Contact Info - from Dargan
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Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 20:39:05 -0400 From: "Dargan" <dargpa01@slic.com> Subject: Nick Alexander Contact Info It doesn't appear to matter who you get as far as the price, but you have to have a fax. They want to send you a fax and have you authorize the credit card; get copy of your BMWCCA card and fax it back. Don't have a fax? Tough! They don't have an alternative. I told them to mail the form. Add 2-3 two weeks, I guess, if they actually ever do mail it.
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Welding on tips (AA Exhaust) -> don't ever buy one - from Adam Fila
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Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 20:44:07 -0400 From: "Adam Fila" <ylf@mindless.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Welding on tips (AA Exhaust) -> don't ever buy one I got my AA muffler last year at the AA fest. My tips also fell apart, and AA sent me new ones for free. I had them sitting here for months and finally one day decided to have them installed. I called around trying to find a place that does stainless welds (turned out not to be too easy) Finally I did, though the guy wouldn't take the muffler off so I had to do it at home (I had a blast driving around the neighborhood with no muffler !) I was amazed at how badly the muffler was put on. Gene must have used whatever bolts he had lying around, because no 2 were the same size, and they were all horribly rusted to hell and seized. Took me good hour under the car to get the thing off. (I went to the dealer and got new bolts and new seals - about $20) I paid about $40 for the weld, and it looks pretty good. I had the tips offset like the stock tips used to be (not aligned like the AA) and now I even like these tips a lot better. The old tips get completely cut off, leaving a little bit of the tube sticking out over which the new tips are welded on. However, the replacement tips were a little too much bigger in diameter, making it somewhat difficult to weld them on (not as much contact area) - not impossible though. I can snap some pics of the tips installed, and also find the number of the welding shop if you're interested (the shop is in Pompton Lakes, NJ) - e-mail me privately. The guy who did the welding also commented on the shitty quality of the original AA welds, particularly where the hangers were welded on - clearly not a stainless weld, as it was rusting heavily. The pipes behind the muffler had a sort of rusted look too, and the welder said that's just due to the very low quality stainless steel used, but it's not much to worry about - except that it looks shitty (much worse after 1 year than my stock muffler pipes looked after 5 years on the car !!) The moral of the story - stay away from AA mufflers, and don't always believe the seemingly trustworthy sources on this board hyping various products as the best out there. -Adam Fila '95 M3 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 5:18 PM Subject: [E36M3] Welding on tips (AA Exhaust) > Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 14:12:35 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Welding on tips (AA Exhaust) > > Hi guys. As some know, my exhaust tips started cracking. I already have a set > of gen II tips (not sure if I like them) on order. I was wondering for those > of you who have experienced this problem, what exactly is involved. Do the > tips get torched off the back of the muffler can? Or are the tips a simple > cover over the tip that comes out of the exhaust and the welder simply removes > the old covering and tacks into place the new ones? What type of welding > should I look for (MIG, TIG, etc, etc)? > > Also, can anyone recommend a good place to do this in the NY/NJ area? I would > prefer nice fish scale type of welding like those used on nice mountain > bikes...not some sort of sloppy sh*t. > > TIA, > Chester > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! > http://mail.yahoo.com/ > > >
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#4. WTB: rear seat side bolsters e-36 M3 - from vincent.a.leo@us.arthurandersen.com
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Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 21:16:40 -0500 From: vincent.a.leo@us.arthurandersen.com Subject: WTB: rear seat side bolsters e-36 M3 I am looking for the rear seat side bolsters for an e-36 M3 2 door in the light gray color. These are the portion of the rear seats that stay in place when you lower the seatbacks. If you have turned your M3 into a race car and want to sell these, please let me know. Thanks, Vince 99 M3 *******************Internet Email Confidentiality Footer******************* Privileged/Confidential Information may be contained in this message. If you are not the addressee indicated in this message (or responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy or deliver this message to anyone. In such case, you should destroy this message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise immediately if you or your employer do not consent to Internet email for messages of this kind. Opinions, conclusions and other information in this message that do not relate to the official business of my firm shall be understood as neither given nor endorsed by it.
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#5. Re: Welding on tips (AA Exhaust) - from S Lafredo
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Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 21:36:01 -0400 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: Welding on tips (AA Exhaust) Funny I used Yahoo Yellow pages to search for welding and found a custom fabrication shop 4 miles from my house that can do any kind of in SS welding I want them to do. I brought the car to him to show him the muffler. He too wants me to remove it to do the work and these comments are based on him not seeing the entire thing off the car. Also my car was garaged all last winter so take this fwiw. He said the stainless looked like 300 series, but to confirm this with AA. He said 300 is some of the best ss with 400 series being less desirable. One way to test the ss is to see if a magnet sticks to it well. He also commented on the welds behind the tips (not the ones attaching the tubes to the back plate. He said they "looked" like they were orbitally done (? I may have some incorrect terminology here). As for removing the tips our plan is to grind the ends of the current tips where the cracks appear. Then to cut off the outer tip leaving the "entire" inner tube to attach the new tips to. I also spoke w/AA today. Seems since the old style tips were "sealed" that the trapped air inside expands with the heat causing the cracks. Oh well, live and learn. As an FYI. I also have the choice of re-welding the old tips, re-grinding and buffing and drilling holes in the toward the back of the tips to let out the pressure. Without seeing the new tips the guy guesses that it will cost me ~$100. ~ 1/2 hour labor and 1 1/2 hours to rebuff the finish to a number 8 finish. More than I wanted to spend but I know it will be done to my anal satisfaction. :) HTH. Stephen On 9/12/00 at 7:48 PM, Adam Fila <ylf@mindless.com> wrote: : The guy who did the welding also commented on the shitty quality of : the original AA welds, particularly where the hangers were welded on - : clearly not a stainless weld, as it was rusting heavily. The pipes : behind the muffler had a sort of rusted look too, and the welder said : that's just due to the very low quality stainless steel used --------------------------------oOo-------------------------------- Stephen Lafredo Philadelphia, PA slafredo@fast.net BMW NCC 97 M3/2 & 89 325ix
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#6. Re: Mounting Screws for 96+ BMW CD Changer - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 22:02:15 EDT From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Re: Mounting Screws for 96+ BMW CD Changer I had the same problem doing this in my Z3 M coupe. A few came with the changer but not enough to complete the installation. The hex head screws w/ fixed washer & lockwasher are 4 mm x .7 mm pitch, 6 mm long. Connect to: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images//4mmx6mm.jpg to see what it looks like. I found some BMW fillister head like ones 4 mm x .7 mm pitch, 6 mm long without washer or lock that worked fine. Part number 07 11 9 907 657 $0.07 retail each. Purchase locally if you have a decent hardware source. My local so so hardware source has a $10.00 minimum and a doctor like wait. Ron@unofficialbmw.com FLY BMW Marlborough, CT www.unofficialbmw.com/ronstygar.html
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#7. Synthetic Oil Weight - from Brent Williams
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Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 04:47:31 +0200 From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> Subject: Synthetic Oil Weight I know this has been discussed, so someone please send me a quick email on what weight of Mobile 1 Synthetic I need for my engines. I have a 97 M3 and a 94 325is. I would prefer to use the same weight in both cars to simplify purchasing. Just drop me a quick email at b@williamsconsultingltd.com if you don't mind. I will be very grateful. Brent
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#8. USGP F1 - from Jim Wilcox
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Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 23:12:09 -0500 From: "Jim Wilcox" <JimShadow1@home.com> Subject: USGP F1 Does anybody know if the Indy BMW CCA guys are doing any go-karting during race week??? Stefan Johannsen's said that they are booked all week long with "Corporate outings" Just wondering. BTW, who's going to the race again?? See you at the Corrall!! JIM
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#9. E36M3 Prices... - from Michael Ting
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Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 23:05:12 -0500 From: "Michael Ting" <lupin@purdue.edu> Subject: E36M3 Prices... Have anyone noticed, that prices of E36 M3s are droppings?? Here are some examples: (The cars are in Illinois mostly) '97 M3 5 spd. Black/Black. $29.900. '97 M5 Auto. 48K. Red/Black. $26,900. '95 M3 5 spd. Black/Black. 73k. $22,600. Michael Ting --------------------
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#10. [E36M3] More Brake Qs - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 22:56:26 PDT From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] More Brake Qs While I've been investigating brake-uprgrade options, I've come across some old archived info that leads me to a few of questions: 1) Once brake fluid has been to it's boiling point, is it basically "done?" Is it actually chemically altered to the point that it could be considered useless or is it just a problem because of the air that's now in the system? 2) Pretty much the same question for pads. I'd begun some research on which pads to get next (I know, no such thing as a good street/track pad but I really don't think I'm to the point that my driving abilities require a dedicated track pad.). I'd found mention of the fact that once the stock pads have been overheated, they'll *never* be the same. Is this true? 3) What was the eventual, final outcome of the new pads *with* new rotors debate? The argument sounded logical both ways but I don't remember an actual resolution coming about. 4-bonus question) I'd like to ask for suggestions from the list for the "ultimate" street pad that *could* serve well on the track, but I know that would just be re-opening a can of worms... Any suggestions are still welcome though. ;-) (I have a feeling Pagid is the way to go... if I can figure out which compound) Thanks! Jonathan _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.