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#1. Good buy on Lubro Moly Synthetic Oil - from JLING888
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 00:40:50 -0700 From: "JLING888" <JLING888@email.msn.com> Subject: Good buy on Lubro Moly Synthetic Oil Hello gruppe- I found a good buy on Lubro Moly Synthetic Oil if you buy 2 or more 5 liter bottles (40% discount). Just wanted to pass the info along...I have NO financial interest whatsoever. Jeff 95' M3 (Very happy w/ Lubro Moly 0-40 oil for 20k miles now) > > From cold start up to fierce acceleration, Lubro Moly Synthetic > Oil lubricates the engine better than mineral base engine oil. > Synthetic oil provides the fastest oil circulation after cold > starting, thanks to the 0W-40 viscosity. This means it > eliminates delays in lubricating engine parts during the first > vital seconds of the start-up. Less friction means better gas > mileage,too! Up to 10%! Long term benefits include less > frequent oil changes, less wear and tear on your engine, reduced > oil consumption and lower emissions. made in Germany, with > approved use by BMW, PORSCHE, and VW-AUDI manufacturers. > Protect your car against premature wear with synthetic oil by > Lubro Moly. > > ************************************************************ > Take it for a test drive. **40% off when you buy 2 or more ** > > Offer good through September! > Only available on the web at www.motorworks.com/bmw/septbmw > ************************************************************ > > You will find the largest selection of parts and accessories in > our Online BMW STORE. > > Save 2% off catalog prices when you order online. > > Check out our Chat Rooms, BMW's for sale, Clubs and Events, and > Clearance items while you are there. > > > > If you wish to be removed from this mailing list please reply to > this message with the word "REMOVE" in the subject. > > > 0005608252 . 05015I > >
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#2. Re: AA's Turbo - from S Lafredo
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 07:02:05 -0400 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: AA's Turbo Are you talking about the ODBII cars? >From AA's website... If you own a 1996 - 1999 M3, the AA turbo system is not available in kit form. The installation has to be done in house at Active Autowerke Miami, FL. Price includes a 420 BHP turbo system, installation for the turbo system, including the turbo clutch package and road transportation to and from the original destination.* * Not applicable to all states Transportation can account for > $3K of the cost, depending on where you live of course. The rest is probably the labor. Just my 2 cents. S On 9/17/00 at 11:14 PM, Michael Ting <lupin@purdue.edu> wrote: : "I found the AA turbo page, and noticed the price of $15+K : for the system. " : : Whoah! Can somebody tell me why theirs are much more expensive? --------------------------------oOo-------------------------------- Stephen Lafredo Philadelphia, PA slafredo@fast.net BMW NCC 97 M3/2 & 89 325ix
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#3. Re: [E36M3] turbo manufacturer's for the E36M3 - from NickG
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 07:30:37 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] turbo manufacturer's for the E36M3 Currently, the only 'legal' way to install a turbo on a '99 M3 is to use the Mechtech kit. AA's kit for '99 M3's converts the car back to OBDI, which isn't street legal. The Mechtech kit costs $5000 and provides 5.5psi and 330hp. The AA kit is $15+K, is their Stage 2 offering, includes installation, and runs 10psi with 420hp. Personally, I'm running AA's Stage 1 kit, but I'm not too pleased with their design quality. Nick '95 M3 turbo > I was looking into the possibility of adding a turbo Kit to > my '99 M3, and don't know of the manufacturers/websites > that detail information about price and availabitly. > > Could someone please let me know if the top turbo kits in > production and point me in the direction of information > about them. > > I found the AA turbo page, and noticed the price of $15+K > for the system. And I knew that Suzy had a Mechturbo? > kit. Is this price standard for a turbo? I thought that > they ran roughly $5-7K. > > I also heard a rumor about JimC creating a > turbo/supercharger kit, but I don't put much stock into > that especially since he just sold his E36. > > Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. > > Jason Sarich
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#4. Re: [E36M3] AA's Turbo - from NickG
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 07:31:56 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] AA's Turbo > "I found the AA turbo page, and noticed the price of $15+K > for the system. " > > Whoah! Can somebody tell me why theirs are much more expensive? The price includes transportation of the car to them, in-house installation, converting the car back to OBDI, and of course, the basic price of the kit. Nick
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Delrin Bushings Installed (from UUC), questions - from Ben Liaw
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 07:23:18 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw" <ben@shortshifter.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Delrin Bushings Installed (from UUC), questions brent, in the entire shifter mechanism, there are multiple sources for "play in the shifter". the carrier movement is only one of the spots. for $0.50 in parts, you can replace a part called the "tension bushing" located in your selector rod gear joint. since you have a 95, we have seen these tension bushings lose their tension becoming ineffective, causing the "sloppiness" BMW shifters are known for after a few years. the only problem with the replacement of this tension bushing is that it typicially means removing the exhaust/driveshaft to gain adequet access to the gear joint. in the near future, this will NOT be an issue for removing the play...because there will be a better way of "dialing out" the play of the knuckle. hope this helps. ben liaw uuc motorwerks ----- Original Message ----- From: <Brent91NSX@aol.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 1:44 AM Subject: [E36M3] Delrin Bushings Installed (from UUC), questions > Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 01:34:57 EDT > From: Brent91NSX@aol.com > Subject: Delrin Bushings Installed (from UUC), questions > > I installed the Delrin bushings tonight. Good news, it was satisfying to get > them in. Bad news, I didn't notice a difference. I'm thinking there are > other bushings that need to be replaced, like the one on the opposite end of > the delrin bushings, then pointed end of the shift linkage. Are there any > other bushings that could cause this play in the shifter? I figure I spend > that much time I might as well notice a difference (even if it does mean > spending a couple more hours). Now its more of a mission than something I > even care about. = ) > > Any help would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > Brent Parks > 95 M3 - Mission Impossible > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#6. Re: Delrin Bushings Installed (from UUC), questions - from Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:46:33 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <rob@shortshifter.com> Subject: Re: Delrin Bushings Installed (from UUC), questions You definitely do not want to replace the rubber parts at the other end of the carrier. The other end of the carrier is held in place by a part that BMW calls a "suspension"... it's not a clip, bracket, hanger, or anything else. The part hangs down (explaining the translation to "suspension") and is a cylinder of metal with a rubber liner and a hole running through it. The hole runs longitudinally with the car. The end of the carrier tapers down until it looks like your little finger. This finger slips into the suspension and is only incapable of coming out because the front end is solidly mounted with the clip and either factory rubber bushing or UUC delrin bushings. The rear end is supposed to be free and must remain free. As it is affixed by simple insertion, it is designed to move back and forth as the powertrain (motor and transmission) moves independently of the chassis. If it were attached more solidly, something would end up breaking. In very rare cases, usually when there has been a catastrophic overheating of the catalytic converter, the suspension part's rubber liner can get damaged and weakened, allowing the carrier to be looser than it should. This is extremely rare, I have only seen it once personally and heard about one other. Both cars' cats had literally melted down from an extremely rich-running situation. The solidity of the UUC delrin carrier bushings is felt specifically at the end of the shift when there is the most pressure on the shift lever. With the rubber bushing, the carrier is allowed to roll to one side or the other as the rubber bushing compresses under the load. The solid UUC delrin bushings prevent that, giving a more precise feel to the shift. If you are experiencing slop once you are completely in gear, sort of a free play (normal is about 3/4" side-to-side due to transmission internals), then you might consider replacing the tension bushing in the selector rod joint. We recommend BMW p/n 25 11 1 203 682 (retail $1.50) which is an uprated part from the E30 M3. You can see a picture of this part at http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/m3_shifter_vibration.htm - Rob UUC Motorwerks http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 01:34:57 EDT > From: Brent91NSX@aol.com > Subject: Delrin Bushings Installed (from UUC), questions > > I installed the Delrin bushings tonight. Good news, it was satisfying to get > them in. Bad news, I didn't notice a difference. I'm thinking there are > other bushings that need to be replaced, like the one on the opposite end of > the delrin bushings, then pointed end of the shift linkage. Are there any > other bushings that could cause this play in the shifter? I figure I spend > that much time I might as well notice a difference (even if it does mean > spending a couple more hours). Now its more of a mission than something I > even care about. = ) > > Any help would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > Brent Parks > 95 M3 - Mission Impossible
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#7. Side air-bag Recall - from Jzy308@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:54:56 EDT From: Jzy308@aol.com Subject: Side air-bag Recall Someone put the text of the TSB relating to side air-bag recall in the digest a while ago. In my E36 M3 I ran over a large rock (head-on) that dented the oilpan, tore out some wiring, and deployed the right side airbag: $3,300!! Insurance paid most of it. While I had been told that the car had the air-bag recall effected, since my problem was identical to those that dictated the recall, I wondered: 1. Was the recall really effected? 2. Was it installed correctly? 3. If yes to both above, was the recall sufficient to solve the problem? I gave a copy of what was in the digest to my service rep and asked if my damage should not be covered under warranty. Since I have had no response, I am ready to "do battle". But-I would very much like a copy of the TSB to be forearmed . Can anybody point me in the right direction? Many thanks. Carl Sewell 98 M3/4
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#8. Resonance/Howl Following Hard Braking - from Lew Becker
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Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:39:02 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Resonance/Howl Following Hard Braking For some time now, I've noted a slight resonance (minimally felt through the steering wheel, briefly emits a low moan) at ~1100-1200 rpm, as the engine comes down to idle (doesn't matter whether the clutch is in or out). Hardly noticeable; no biggie. The other day, I had to brake abruptly (hard enough to activate the ABS) and the mild resonance turned substantial, with the low moan verging on a "howl" (at the same ~1100-1200 rpm) -- very noticeable, when passing through that rev range and/or held at that engine speed (clutch in or out, didn't matter). After the car sat for an hour and a half, the resonance and noise were back to slight. I can duplicate the strong resonance/loud noise at will, by braking hard; although, all goes back to "normal" after a bit. Nothing changes with abrupt/hard acceleration. It seems to me that some piece that normally makes minimal contact with the chassis (and thereby yields the mild resonance); shifts on hard braking and makes more contact, increasing the resonance. (If so, the piece obviously shifts to the front of the car, which means its normally behind the contact point). And, it goes back to its initial position after a brief time. I haven't had a chance to get under the car and see what may be going on; but, from the top, all seems normal -- no noticeable engine or shift lever movement upon revving in neutral. I have noted what appears to be very small amounts of power steering fluid on the rack the last few times I've been under the car (cleaned off each time; and it reappears) -- possibly related? The "howl" sounds like almost like the power steering pump on my 4Runner when its low on fluid, although considerably louder -- but the M3's resonance/noise is unrelated to what the steering wheel is doing. Any thoughts on what's going on would be appreciated. Lew Becker
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#9. Bentley Brake Bleeding Procedure - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 09:42:36 -0500 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsusd.lsuhsc.edu> Subject: Bentley Brake Bleeding Procedure Can anyone explain the procedure for bleeding brakes that is in the Bentley Manuel? It states that you must use a pressure bleeder, but then it tell you to pump the brakes ten times with the bleeder valve open. Below that there is a "caution" that says anytime the bleeder valve is open, always have the hose from the bleeder submersed in brake fluid. A couple of questions here. Won't some air still be sucked in the system that is trapped in the hose if you pump the brakes with the valve open? More importantly, if a pressure bleeder is used, why do you have to pump the brakes at all and hold down on the last pump. I thought using a pressure bleeder eliminated pumping the peddle, etc. Is this somehow related to the ABS? Is this procedure in the manual necessary and why? AJ DiVincenti 95 M3 (with a softer brake peddle than before)
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#10.Nakamichi MB-75 - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:20:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: <maybe FS> Nakamichi MB-75 Hi guys. I'm thinking of selling my Nakamichi MB-75 for a different head unit. Any interested parties? It's a 6-disc *in-dash* CD-changer. More details can be found at: http://207.69.90.253/mb75ad/dcindex.htm I forgot how much the unit lists for. I think I paid $500 for it. I'd include whatever I have to wire it up to the e36 with no problems. E-mail me privately at chester_p_wong@yahoo.com Thanks for the bandwidth, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/