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#1. Re: EBC brake pad noise - from Ted Telesky
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 23:54:43 -0400 From: Ted Telesky <TTelesky@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: EBC brake pad noise Ron, I am in LA, a bit of a haul I'd say - but thanks for the offer. I may try it myself. I have the service manual and some website "DIY" print outs. Thanks again. Ted Message text written by "Ron Buchalski" > Ted, Replacing brake pads on an E36 M3 (and E34) is a very easy procedure. You can save $100 by doing it yourself. Replacing pads takes 10-15 minutes per wheel, and that includes dismounting and remounting the wheel. You need a minimal number of tools, and it's not a strenous procecure. In fact, the only strenuous procedure (which isn't required when just replacing pads) is breaking loose the 16mm bolts that hold the front caliper mounts to the hub assembly. These only need to be removed when you replace the rotors. Where are you located? If you're in the DC area, you can stop by and I'll show you how it's done. Good luck! -rb<
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#2. RE: [E36M3] ButtonWillow school opening - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 21:01:48 -0700 From: "Robert Chay" <rchay@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] ButtonWillow school opening Jim, I would if I could use any of the R compounds that I bought. I don't think driving in A group with street tires would be a good idea. I don't want to hold anyone up :) Actually, I asked to be in B group but I don't know what group they threw me in. As far as Jonathan being big... I saw him last week and he looks a little soft. >:) -Bobby ps. If anyone wants to buy a set of BBS RK's with Kumhos (17x8 w/225/45-17), I can bring them to Buttonwillow this weekend. Brand new (won't fit my brakes) $1500 OBO > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Powell [mailto:jsp98m3@home.com] > Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 7:04 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] ButtonWillow school opening > > > Bobby and Jonathan, > > You *have* to be an A group driver ;) > > Jim <== Help me out here Donna, I don't want Jonathan upset. Damn he's a > big guy > PS: Ken do you still need help in any way? Happy to sweep up or > whatever is > needed. > >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] AA's Turbo - from Altezza280TT@cs.com
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 00:51:49 EDT From: Altezza280TT@cs.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] AA's Turbo I call AA them last month and this is the lowest price they give me for everything upgrade break, suspension & S 3 turbo $24,365 !!! For that much I might as well get a Euro Stroker engine and have a plenty left over for other goodies. Mark///97M3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] AA's Turbo - from Josh
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 01:03:10 -0400 From: Josh <M3@MotorSportPower.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] AA's Turbo Assuming that includes everything they offer, that price is not bad at all. Especially since that would push you beyond the 500 hp mark with massive brakes and a good suspension. >For that much I might as well get a Euro Stroker engine and have a plenty left over for other goodies.< Not likely. Altezza280TT@cs.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 00:51:49 EDT > From: Altezza280TT@cs.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] AA's Turbo > > I call AA them last month and this is the lowest price they give me for > everything upgrade break, suspension & S 3 turbo $24,365 !!! > Mark///97M3 > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#5. Help... Engine won't warm up... - from Brent Williams
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 08:41:24 +0200 From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> Subject: Help... Engine won't warm up... Basically, last week it took about 5 minutes of non agressive driving to warm up the engine coolant guage in the instrument panel. I have plenty of coolant, and my oil is right in the middle. I have checked all my fluids. This week, it takes 20 to 30 minutes to warm up. Granted the temperature around here has dropped a good 20 degrees, but can it be that drastic on the warm up? I always wait until the engine is warmed up before starting my spirited driving, so naturally I am impatient, but what could be causing this? Do I need a new thermostat, or am I just paranoid? Brent b@williamsconsultingltd.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Help... Engine won't warm up... - from Sean Hester
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Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 23:56:28 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help... Engine won't warm up... >Do I need a new thermostat yes. it's stuck open, thereby not allowing the system to heat up. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#7. RE: Multiplicative Mixture Adaptation - from Aswtguy2c@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 07:04:16 EDT From: Aswtguy2c@aol.com Subject: RE: Multiplicative Mixture Adaptation Scott, Is this happening now to your vehicle and what fault code did you get with it if you were able to interogate the DME. Multiplicative Mixture Adaptation is fuel adaptation in part throttle loads ONLY. Adaptive mixture adaptation only has to do with idle. WOT is.. i guess WOT. I totally forgot about the specs for Multiplicative Mixture Adaptation but I think if you're within 8% you're running lean and if your -8% you're running rich so I think you're running a bit lean. Would like to give you a definte answer but my books are at work. I'll get back to you more on this in the afternoon. Jonathan Caldito
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#8. Wheel questions - offset and possible forged wheels - from vernon@sprynet.com
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:46:03 -0400 From: vernon@sprynet.com Subject: Wheel questions - offset and possible forged wheels I have several questions for the collective about wheel offsets: 1. The offset (be it 38, 40, 41, whatever) is the amount in mm that the the wheel's hub is offset from the center of the rim, correct? I mean, if the offset is 41mm, that means that the hub is 41 mm to the outside of the car from the exact center of the rim?? To put is another way, if the offset is a larger number (45 or 48 for example), you would risk rubbing on the inside of the rim and if the offset is too low (30 or 32), you would risk rubbing on the fender. 2. Standard staggered (96+) OEM rims are 17x7.5 (38mm offset) and 17x8.5 (41mm offset), correct? 3. I have a set of 5-spoke (LTW style) BMW Motorsport 17x7.5 rims that have a 41mm offset (ET41 on the inside of the wheel) that I think is different from my 7.5" Contours (offset-wise that is). How can I tell if these are forged, from the part numbers? Did BMW make any forged sets in 17x7.5 all around? Sorry for the scattered questions, but I'm trying to formulate a better wheel and tire strategy for next year for street, track and auto-x. Thanks! Vern Anderson 98 m3/2
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Wheel questions - offset and possible forged wheels - from Ben Liaw
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 09:11:26 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw" <ben@shortshifter.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel questions - offset and possible forged wheels > Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:46:03 -0400 > From: vernon@sprynet.com > Subject: Wheel questions - offset and possible forged wheels > > I have several questions for the collective about wheel offsets: > > 1. The offset (be it 38, 40, 41, whatever) is the amount in mm that the the wheel's hub is offset from the center of the rim, correct? I mean, if the offset is 41mm, that means that the hub is 41 mm to the outside of the car from the exact center of the rim?? To put is another way, if the offset is a larger number (45 or 48 for example), you would risk rubbing on the inside of the rim and if the offset is too low (30 or 32), you would risk rubbing on the fender. yes. > 2. Standard staggered (96+) OEM rims are 17x7.5 (38mm offset) and 17x8.5 (41mm offset), correct? no. according to the EPC, both the 7.5 and 8.5 are ET41. > 3. I have a set of 5-spoke (LTW style) BMW Motorsport 17x7.5 rims that have a 41mm offset (ET41 on the inside of the wheel) that I think is different from my 7.5" Contours (offset-wise that is). no, both the 7.5 and 8.5 have ET41 as well. >How can I tell if these are forged, from the part numbers? Did BMW make any forged sets in 17x7.5 all around? yes, the part numbers will tell the tale (if they're factory forged or not). there are TWO styles of the forged wheel... 1. the forged, and painted, double spokes (with BMW Motorsport impression on face) 2. the forged, polished, and painted, double spokes (with NO BMW Motorsport impression on face) both versions are available in 7.5 and 8.5 configurations. BMW offered a forged wheel upgrade for 1995 M3 in 7.5 all around. the LTW got the 7.5/8.5 staggered setup from the factory. > Sorry for the scattered questions, but I'm trying to formulate a better wheel and tire strategy for next year for street, track and auto-x. Thanks! good luck. ben liaw uuc motorwerks
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#10. Bleeder valve location (Coolant) - from Ed Tang
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 06:30:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: Bleeder valve location (Coolant) Ben wrote: >Subject: Coolant Digestion > >Where is the bleeder valve? > I haven't done the procedure since March but if memory serves me right, the valve looks like a plastic screw with a cross that is a recepticle for a Phillips screwdriver. This should be next to the Radiator cap on a 95 M3. To bleed the cooling system, this is where my memory's going, you turn the ignition to the "On" position and release the pressure from the valve and tighten it. I believe you start the car until the water temp goes up. Then you bleed it again. It's in the Bentley manual which my dad has borrowed. Since you have no visible leaks, It's probable that the valve was not fully shut and you had a slow vapor leak. Hope it helps. Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/