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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Wheel questions - offset and possible forged wheels - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 20:19:55 -0700 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@pluris.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Wheel questions - offset and possible forged wheels My 95 M3 (1/95) has all four wheels that are the same size. The wheels are of the 10 spoke variety with BMW Motorsport imprinted on them with no M logo. Bora S Lafredo wrote: > Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 23:12:12 -0400 > From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> > Subject: Re: Wheel questions - offset and possible forged wheels > > Michael Fennell's late model 1995 M3 had staggered wheels. What I don't > remember is if they were the 10 spoke wheels. So I think BMW switched to > the staggered wheels in late 1995 before 1996. > > He told me his car came that way. > > Just another data point. > > On 9/19/00 at 8:14 AM, Ben Liaw <ben@shortshifter.com> wrote: > > : BMW offered a forged wheel upgrade for 1995 M3 in 7.5 all around. the > : LTW got the 7.5/8.5 staggered setup from the factory. > --------------------------------oOo-------------------------------- > Stephen Lafredo Philadelphia, PA slafredo@fast.net > BMW NCC 97 M3/2 & 89 325ix > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#2. E34 clutch forks for '95 M3s - from Ron Katona
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 00:25:07 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: E34 clutch forks for '95 M3s Jim Powell wrote: > The E34 'fork' is a good change for $14 or so. Yours is maybe worn anyway. > If you have visions of going beyond 275HP or so, I'd upgrade the clutch too. > You should probably replace the bearing and clutch disc anyway. Thanks to everyone who replied. I remember hearing about the E34 fork elsewhere, but can't seem to find any specifics on it after searching the usual web sites and archives. What's the benefit of this swap? To further complicate things, the ETK shows the E34 M5 and all 535 models using P/N 21-51-1-204-229 for the release fork. E34 525/530/540 use P/N 21-51-1-223-302. The '95 3.0 M3 also shows 21-51-1-204-229 for the fork, while the '96+ 3.2 shows the 21-51-1-223-302 number. I'm confused. Anyone know the specific part number of the preferred part? Looks like this upgrade is not applicable to '95s, although if mine is worn I'll certainly go ahead and replace it. -- Ron Katona
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#3. Dear Jeff "Flamer" James & NAI - from Richard Buchanan
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Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 23:44:51 -0700 From: Richard Buchanan <rbuchanan@pacbell.net> Subject: Dear Jeff "Flamer" James & NAI Dear Jeff James, Let me apologize for somehow "screwing you" into paying for shipping. NAI charged my account $467 and has not delivered anything to me EXCEPT an empty box stuffed with shipping paper. How would you feel? For those of you interested, here are the latest FACTS as outlined in my earlier mail: 1. I ordered two sets of euro floating rotors from NAI. 2. On 9/14 the shipment was received empty and showed an NAI recorded weight of 38lbs. 3. On 9/11 VISA credited NAI $467.67 and charged me $467.67. 4. NAI disclosed they had mistakenly shipped only one set of rotors in response to my phone call that I had received an empty box. 5. As of 9/19 I have still not received ANY product. 6. UPS has assigned an investigator to determine if the theft took place while the product was in their control or prior to pick-up and are returning the empty package to NAI for their inspection. Out of my courtesy to NAI I have NOT yet suspended the charge OR filed a complaint with VISA and the Better Business Bureau. I clearly stated that I did NOT know who was responsible in my previous mail to the list. As for NAI blaming ME for your shipping charges...excuse my French...but B#$%*@^T. Perhaps I'm the one who should be pursuing a defamation of character claim? I'm the one out $467 and NAI hasn't lifted a finger to do a thing. I have received one phone call from NAI and 3 phone calls and two personal visits from UPS. I don't know how you determine personal service, but it seems to me that UPS is winning. Why don't you climb down off that high horse of yours? We'll see what happens in the end and I'll let everyone know the outcome. Rich Buchanan
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#4. Re: [E36M3] OEM suspension tinkering - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 00:14:36 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] OEM suspension tinkering ----- Original Message ----- From: <LoweSeaton@aol.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 4:54 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] OEM suspension tinkering Snip) > The rear sway bar is different size between '95 vs '96. The '95 bar is 19.5 mm vs 20 mm for '96+. The '96+ is 0.5 mm larger. Theoretically, a larger rear bar will reduce understeer. > Since the stiffness is proportional to the 4th power of the ratio, the 20 mm is 10.66% stiffer than the 19.5 mm bar. snip) > Or for more money, buy a much larger aftermarket sway bar. Eibach and UUC are two of the most popular. They are 26 mm vs 19.5 mm for stock. Plus they come with urethane bushings. You will notice a much greater difference. > Wow! 216% stiffer! Joe
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Dear Jeff "Flamer" James & NAI - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 04:04:26 -0500 From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dear Jeff "Flamer" James & NAI Let's end this thread before it deteriorates any further. Suzy
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#6. Re: [E36M3] OEM suspension tinkering - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 08:25:36 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] OEM suspension tinkering Joe Dyer wrote: > Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 00:14:36 -0700 > From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] OEM suspension tinkering > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <LoweSeaton@aol.com> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> > Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 4:54 PM > Subject: Re: [E36M3] OEM suspension tinkering > > Snip) > > The rear sway bar is different size between '95 vs '96. The '95 bar is > 19.5 mm vs 20 mm for '96+. The '96+ is 0.5 mm larger. Theoretically, a > larger rear bar will reduce understeer. > > > Since the stiffness is proportional to the 4th power of the ratio, the 20 mm > is 10.66% stiffer than the 19.5 mm bar. > > snip) > > > Or for more money, buy a much larger aftermarket sway bar. Eibach and UUC > are two of the most popular. They are 26 mm vs 19.5 mm for stock. Plus > they come with urethane bushings. You will notice a much greater > difference. > > > Wow! 216% stiffer! The Eibach rear bars are 24mm not 26. Cheers, Jim E.
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#7. RE: [E36M3] painting front lip - from Lee, Peter
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 09:07:48 -0400 From: "Lee, Peter " <plee@mlundy.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] painting front lip i was referring to dmitri;s car. >>> S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> 09/19/00 11:14PM >>> Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 23:05:00 -0400 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] painting front lip Look at any Luxury version. They did not come w/the lip. Also the paint will chip. It's too low. Especially, for Bob who autocrosses :) HTH. S On 9/19/00 at 2:14 PM, Lee, Peter <plee@mlundy.com> wrote: : If I were you, try taking off the front lip so you can see what : your car would look like with all green front bumper. --------------------------------oOo-------------------------------- Stephen Lafredo Philadelphia, PA slafredo@fast.net BMW NCC 97 M3/2 & 89 325ix ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#8. Rolling fenders - experiences, advice? - from vernon@sprynet.com
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 09:32:53 -0400 From: vernon@sprynet.com Subject: Rolling fenders - experiences, advice? Hello all, I'm seriously considering rolling the fenders on my 98 M3/2 to accommodate wider rims/tires. I have coilovers and front camber plates. The car is currently lowered about 1.25". Next year I'm going to be running 8.5" OEM rims all around for both track and auto-x. I'd like to run 255/40/17's Hoosiers for auto-x and AO32R's for the track. I know there are two (actually three if you count doing it manually with a baseball bat or prybar) methods - the fender rolling tool and a bodyshop. What experiences has anyone had with the various ways to do this? Any advice? Cost? I'm also a little concerned about inside clearance with the rims I'm going to use - I may need spacers. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! Vern Anderson 98 ///M3 Coupe
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#9. Re: Rolling fenders - experiences, advice? - from S Lafredo
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 06:55:38 -0700 (PDT) From: S Lafredo <slafredo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Rolling fenders - experiences, advice? Vernon, We (actually, ben did all of the work ;) rolled my fenders with the Tire Rack tool. He folded over the lip and did a very nice job. I would recommend this method over a baseball bat. Some time, later on this list there was a post w/a reference to a site where a shop actually, flares the fender using the same tool. Looked a lot more invovled than what we did. :) Also going w/fatter tires *may* cause rubbing on the inside of the plastic fender well. People solve this problem by installing a (one) thicker spacers/pad or doubling up on pads, see UUC site for info about this method. So there are really two areas to watch. HTH. Stephen --- vernon@sprynet.com wrote: > I know there are two (actually three if you count doing it manually > with a baseball bat or prybar) methods - the fender rolling tool and > a bodyshop. What experiences has anyone had with the various ways to > do this? Any advice? Cost? I'm also a little concerned about > inside clearance with the rims I'm going to use - I may need spacers. > Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Rolling fenders - experiences, advice? - from Ben Liaw
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Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 10:02:45 -0400 From: "Ben Liaw" <ben@shortshifter.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rolling fenders - experiences, advice? > I know there are two (actually three if you count doing it manually with a baseball bat or prybar) methods - the >fender rolling tool and a bodyshop. What experiences has anyone had with the various ways to do this? Any >advice? Cost? I'm also a little concerned about inside clearance with the rims I'm going to use - I may need >spacers. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! <megaphone on> VERN! THIS IS THE UUC POLICE. DROP THE BRYBAR AND STEP AWAY FROM THE CAR. <megaphone off> seriously, don't use a prybar on your fenders...they won't like you. a baseball bat (wood, preferred) has been an established method for rolling fenders. when i was trying to roll the fenders on the 332ti, a bodyshop quoted me $200 to do it...they weren't even sure how they'd do it (cutting, etc.). a fender rolling tool is DEFINITELY the best way to go. it allows you to *control* the rate at which you roll your fenders. done properly, you won't even crack the paint (on the edge of the fender). last i heard, the one you can borrow from tire rack was 10 weeks +. because of the long waits to borrow the tool from tire race, UUC purchased it's very own...just in case we needed to roll a fender or two. ;-) hope this helps. ben liaw uuc motorwerks