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#1. VANOS and Red Line - from John Demartino US-Valencia
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Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 00:38:47 +0200 From: John Demartino US-Valencia <j.demartino@us.qiagen.com> Subject: VANOS and Red Line "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> wrote... "the time has come to replace the VANOS in my 95 with 51K miles (the problem started at 37K miles, about 100 miles after filling with redline's 10W40 motor oil.)" Hmmm, I just switched to Red Line 10W40 myself. I went with the Red Line because it was the only full synthetic 10W40 I could find (believe me, at $10/quart I am not happy about it). I was happy with the original BMW 10W40, but as soon as I did an oil change with the new 10W30 I noticed lifter tick for the first time at the next autocross. May have been a coincidence, but I then tried Mobil1 15W50 but found that to feel heavy and changed the response of the motor. So I ended up with the RedLine. Has anyone else experienced problems with the RedLine? > John C. DeMartino Product Manager QIAGEN Inc 28159 Ave Stanford Valencia, CA 91355 800-426-8157 x507 j.demartino@us.qiagen.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] VANOS and Red Line - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:17:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] VANOS and Red Line > Has anyone else experienced problems with the RedLine? Perhaps a coincidence, but about 100 - 200 miles after I put Red Line 10W40 in my engine, my VANOS gear went at 21k miles. The dealer replaced the VANOS adjuster and all seemed well, but lately, it seems that the noise might be a little louder than I remember. Maybe brain fade. At any rate, I will be draining the Red Line and filling up with Mobil 1 15W50 (for OFest) and will probably continue with Mobil 1 10W30 afterwards. Skip Bogard, whose opinion I respect very much, said that he couldn't get the white papers (that's what they call them in the computer world...not sure about the auto world) about the fluid. FWIW, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
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#3. RE: bleeding the clutch, HELP!!! URGENT!! - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 18:20:14 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: RE: bleeding the clutch, HELP!!! URGENT!! Mike: Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the gearbox. (DO NOT press the clutch pedal while the clutch slave cylinder is removed from the gearbox!) Reattach your pressure bleeder to the brake fluid reservoir. Rotate the clutch slave cylinder so that the bleed nipple is pointing upward. Loosen the bleed nipple and watch for more air bubbles to come out the end. When the air bubbles are gone and the fluid is clear, close the nipple. Reattach the clutch slave cylinder to the gearbox. Remove the pressure bleeder. Now comes the part that requires a lot of patience. Gradually pump the clutch pedal in small movements until you feel some pressure. It may start on the floor and you'll have to lift it off the floor for the first several pumps. The pressure inside the slave cylinder will gradually build up and the "feel" of the clutch pedal will return. As the pedal feel comes back, pump the pedal a longer stroke distance. Then let the car sit overnight. You should have a full clutch pedal (or close to it) the next morning. Driving the car will get the rest of the clutch travel back. Bob Stommel >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 05:52:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: <e36m3> bleeding the clutch, HELP!!! URGENT!! Gruppe: I was trying to get ready for a school this weekend and was going about flushing/bleeding the brake system. Everything was going great with Steve D's adapter. When I got to the clutch the trouble began! I opened the clutch bleeder valve and a huge rush of fluid and air exited the tube. The clutch pedal would go to the floor and not return. BIG TROUBLE!!! Obviously the transmission would also not go into gear. WTF happened???? The reservoir never went below the minimum fill line! Did air get introduced into the entire system such that I should now rebleed all of the calipers again??? Did I open the clutch bleed nipple too much, later remembering that the bleed nipple is at the bottom and not the top??? I got the car moving again by again trying to bleed the clutch system by just slightly opening the bleeder nipple so that only an occasional drop of fluid would come out and let me pressure bleeder do the job for about 20-30 minutes. As an aside, less than 4oz. total came out. QUESTIONS: 1. Do I need to rebleed the entire system? 2. The clutch seems to pick up closer to the floor, is this bad? (I thought that when a clutch was going the pick up point moved up?) 3. There may be a clunk, not sure because only drove for about 2 minutes to make sure that it could go to a shop if necessary, any ideas what this might be? 4. Anyone have a similar experience that can tell me everything is OK? TIA Mike Turgeon BMW CCA #166866 95 M3 Avus
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Need to Bleed Clutch? (was: RE: bleeding the clutch) - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:34:57 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need to Bleed Clutch? (was: RE: bleeding the clutch) on 9/21/00 4:24 PM, Bob Stommel at rstommel@iquest.net wrote: > Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the gearbox. (DO NOT press the > clutch pedal while the clutch slave cylinder is removed from the > gearbox!) Reattach your pressure bleeder to the brake fluid > reservoir. Wow, I am so confused. I have bled my brakes in the past, and I assumed that you simply attach your pressure bleeder to the brake reservoir and bleed at the caliper. By this mail, it sounds like you need to bleed your clutch as well when you bleed your brakes. Do you have to bleed your clutch as part of the process to get the best brake effort? Is there something special going on that the clutch needs to be bled as well? - peterg (confused) '95 M3 '96 328i
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#5. thermostat broke, should I drive the car? - from Brent Williams
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 02:26:29 +0200 From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> Subject: thermostat broke, should I drive the car? What is the worst thing that can happen if you run your car with a broken thermostat? I need to take it to the dealership to have the thermostat replaced, and I am wondering if I should drive it or have it towed. Just a simple answer will do, I could probably replace it myself, but it is still under warranty so why not get it done at the dealership. Towing is covered under my insurance. Also, I don't want to void my warranty. Brent
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#6. Re: [E36M3] thermostat broke, should I drive the car? - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 17:45:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] thermostat broke, should I drive the car? I'd say worse case is the car runs to cold. If the temp guage is pretty close to normal, i'd say no problem. if it stays in the cold zone, i'd say don't bring the revs over 4k and don't drive it like that for more than a few days. Jason On Thu, 21 Sep 2000, Brent Williams wrote: > Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 02:26:29 +0200 > From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> > Subject: thermostat broke, should I drive the car? > > What is the worst thing that can happen if you run your car with a broken > thermostat? I need to take it to the dealership to have the thermostat > replaced, and I am wondering if I should drive it or have it towed. > > Just a simple answer will do, I could probably replace it myself, but it is > still under warranty so why not get it done at the dealership. Towing is > covered under my insurance. Also, I don't want to void my warranty. > > Brent > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] thermostat broke, should I drive the car? - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 17:46:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] thermostat broke, should I drive the car? ooops. i lied. i assumed it was stuck open for some reason. if its stuck shut I wouldn't drive the car at all. IE: if the temp guage goes above normal then I'd have it towed. sorry for previous misinformation. jason On Thu, 21 Sep 2000, Brent Williams wrote: > Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 02:26:29 +0200 > From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> > Subject: thermostat broke, should I drive the car? > > What is the worst thing that can happen if you run your car with a broken > thermostat? I need to take it to the dealership to have the thermostat > replaced, and I am wondering if I should drive it or have it towed. > > Just a simple answer will do, I could probably replace it myself, but it is > still under warranty so why not get it done at the dealership. Towing is > covered under my insurance. Also, I don't want to void my warranty. > > Brent > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] thermostat broke, should I drive the car? - from NickG
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 20:56:56 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] thermostat broke, should I drive the car? Geez, what a coincidence....driving into work this morning I realized that the coolant never got up normal operating temp. Turns out that my thermostat is stuck open. How is your's broken? If it's stuck open, then you can drive it into the shop to get fixed. If it's stuck closed, then get it towed. Nick '95 M3 ps. do you have the BMW Certified Car Extended Warranty (provided on used cars)? If so, I don't think it covers the thermostat. > What is the worst thing that can happen if you run your car with a broken > thermostat? I need to take it to the dealership to have the thermostat > replaced, and I am wondering if I should drive it or have it towed. > > Just a simple answer will do, I could probably replace it myself, but it is > still under warranty so why not get it done at the dealership. Towing is > covered under my insurance. Also, I don't want to void my warranty. > > Brent
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#9. : [E36M3] changing spark plugs - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 20:58:28 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: : [E36M3] changing spark plugs >pulled a plug out, and got 6 new ones like that. Plugs turned out to be the ones Jim E. mentions - Bosch FGR 8 KQC< Maybe its confusing because I've seen both 'KQC' and KOC' offered for our M3s. BMP sells the KOC for $22.95. Bav Auto Sport sells the 'KQC' for $12.95. they're both expensive, but at 10 bucks apart, ones a lot more than the other. Which is the correct one, or, are they both 'correct' with one being better, or does it not matter?? thanks. _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3; <20000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift Kit and clutch stop; Skaags pedals
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#10. FS: 18 inch ACS Type II - 3piece/Yoko NEXUS - from tommy toes
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Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 01:00:27 GMT From: "tommy toes" <tommychris@hotmail.com> Subject: FS: 18 inch ACS Type II - 3piece/Yoko NEXUS rims are mint, no scratches,dents,curbs, nothing. sizes : 18x8.5 with 225/40/18 18x9.5 with 265/35/18 tires have 70% tread life left. selling for $3500. email me if interested. thanks, will ship, but buyer pays shipping. off a 97 M3 pics here- http://www.bimmer.org/wheel/messages/messages/3272.html _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#11. Where to Fix Bent Wheels? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 18:01:51 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Where to Fix Bent Wheels? I am picking up a set of BBS RX's pretty cheap, but one is bent. Does anyone know a place local to San Francisco where I can get it repaired? I'd prefer to not have to ship it out for the repair. Any advice is appreciated. -peterg