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#1. Re: [E36M3]bleeding the clutch, HELP!!! URGENT!! - from Thomas E. Tice
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:13:58 -0400 From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] <e36m3> bleeding the clutch, HELP!!! URGENT!! I had the same thing happen on the M3 the first time I bleed the clutch. I never noticed any significant air come from the bleed hose but - Pedal to the floor afterwards. I didn't notice this until I had had the car completely off the jack stands. I simply put it back into the air and re- bled the clutch (pressure bleeder method) for quite a while. The pedal came back. I have had this happen one time before on a '88 535iS but subsequent bleeding of the clutch didn't produce the same results. Does anyone really understand what is going on here and how to avoid it? Removing the slave cylinder is no small task (at least on my car), as it is very tight and looks next to impossible to get to the bolts without some tools that I may not have (maybe I'm missing a simple trick here or just paranoid when lying under 2 tons of metal). Jim B. indicated that he simply pumped the clutch pedal until it returned. I was unsuccessful with this method. I was also skeptical of this because that would seem to indicate that you are simply increasing pressure to overcome air in the system as opposed to eliminating the problem. Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6 Michael Turgeon wrote: > Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 05:52:55 -0700 (PDT) > From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> > Subject: <e36m3> bleeding the clutch, HELP!!! URGENT!! > > Gruppe: > I was trying to get ready for a school this weekend > and was going about flushing/bleeding the brake > system. Everything was going great with Steve D's > adapter. When I got to the clutch the trouble began! > > I opened the clutch bleeder valve and a huge rush of > fluid and air exited the tube. The clutch pedal would > go to the floor and not return. BIG TROUBLE!!! > Obviously the transmission would also not go into > gear. > > WTF happened???? > > The reservoir never went below the minimum fill line! > > Did air get introduced into the entire system such > that I should now rebleed all of the calipers again??? > > Did I open the clutch bleed nipple too much, later > remembering that the bleed nipple is at the bottom and > not the top??? > > I got the car moving again by again trying to bleed > the clutch system by just slightly opening the bleeder > nipple so that only an occasional drop of fluid would > come out and let me pressure bleeder do the job for > about 20-30 minutes. As an aside, less than 4oz. > total came out. > > QUESTIONS: > 1. Do I need to rebleed the entire system? > 2. The clutch seems to pick up closer to the floor, is > this bad? (I thought that when a clutch was going the > pick up point moved up?) > 3. There may be a clunk, not sure because only drove > for about 2 minutes to make sure that it could go to a > shop if necessary, any ideas what this might be? > 4. Anyone have a similar experience that can tell me > everything is OK? > > TIA > > Mike Turgeon > BMW CCA #166866 > 95 M3 Avus > > PS The Pagid street pads I got from Steve D fit > amazingly well compared to the Porterfield > one-size-fits-all R4S which must be custom fit to the > caliper, ask me how I know! > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. > http://im.yahoo.com/ > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#2. Thermostat thanks... - from Brent Williams
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 03:30:37 +0200 From: "Brent Williams" <brent@williamsconsultingltd.com> Subject: Thermostat thanks... Thanks for all the replies, just checking because I am paranoid. For the record, I think it is stuck open, but the dealership is 1.5 hours away. Thanks for all the info. Just making sure. Brent
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#3. Re: : [E36M3] changing spark plugs - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:45:56 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: : [E36M3] changing spark plugs The correct plug for our cars (3.2) is the KQC. No E36 M3 (3.0 or 3.2) uses a KOC designation - at least not from the factory. Cheers, Jim E. Paul Elliott wrote: Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 20:58:28 -0400 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: : [E36M3] changing spark plugs >pulled a plug out, and got 6 new ones like that. Plugs turned out to be the ones Jim E. mentions - Bosch FGR 8 KQC< Maybe its confusing because I've seen both 'KQC' and KOC' offered for our M3s. BMP sells the KOC for $22.95. Bav Auto Sport sells the 'KQC' for $12.95. they're both expensive, but at 10 bucks apart, ones a lot more than the other. Which is the correct one, or, are they both 'correct' with one being better, or does it not matter?? thanks. _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3; <20000 mi; Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift Kit and clutch stop; Skaags pedals ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Kinesis Group Buy - still more people needed - from Jim Powell
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:23:44 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kinesis Group Buy - still more people needed Well Lee, Please put Michelins on those wheels. I'll come by one night, get them and leave a handful of hundreds under your wiper. Time will be of the essence and I'm sure you can understand I won't have time to wait for your answer. But that's ok, 'cause it'll be all about me and what I need. Jim "Lee, Peter" wrote: > > Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:57:03 -0400 > From: "Lee, Peter " <plee@mlundy.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kinesis Group Buy - still more people needed > > i know i know. i'm not saying what i did was right... > time is of the essence in this GB... rather than wait for suzy's > response, it was more time-eff't for me to simply post it. > again, i apologize. no need for criticism... i already AGREE > with you. > > >>> "Jim Wilcox" <JimShadow1@home.com> 09/21/00 11:33AM >>> > Come on guys. Suzy works her A** off to maintain this list, atleast show > her some respect and follow the few simple rules that she has put in place. > How hard would it be to just ask her permission first??? > > JIM > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lee, Peter " <plee@mlundy.com> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> > Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2000 9:34 AM > Subject: [E36M3] Kinesis Group Buy - still more people needed > > Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 10:35:52 -0400 > From: "Lee, Peter " <plee@mlundy.com> > Subject: Kinesis Group Buy - still more people needed > > Hey list... > > Suzy, I apologize for advertising a group buy on your list. > Hope you understand that I really really really really really > want a set of Kinesis at less than *an arm and a leg* and > there isn't enough people yet who have committed... > > A friend of mine is hosting a group buy - he runs a shop > down in SC. > His GB prices for the Kinesis wheels are incredible. > > 1. Go to www.kinesismotorsport.com and pick a style you like > > 2. Email Dave (my friend) at fast4dr@aol.com and tell > him what wheel(s) you're interested in. Dave will provide > you with Kinesis's selling price, and then his price. > > I'm doing this as a favor to him. What's in it for me? Well, > if enough people get on this GB, I get my wheels for > less than what Kinesis would charge me as well! > > Thanks. Sorry again Suzy. > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#5. Badger Bimmer Driver's school at Road America - from Mike Clemens
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 21:44:03 -0500 From: Mike Clemens <mclemens@execpc.com> Subject: Badger Bimmer Driver's school at Road America There are still open slots in the advanced and lapping group for Saturday and Sunday plus the Friday session which is limited to instructors, advanced and lapping. The application says you must have a 5 point harness for the advanced and lapping groups. This has been changed to allow 4 point harnesses also. Join the Badger Bimmer club at its Road America driver's school. Road America (about 50 miles north of Milwaukee) is one of the worlds great road courses. Four miles of long straights, fast corners, big elevation changes and the famous kink. The school will be held on October 7th and 8th. Instructors, lappers and advanced students may also drive on Friday, October 6th. I've been to this school each of the last 3 years and it has always been well run and a lot of fun. Links to the application on the Badger Bimmer site and to a track map for Road America are below. Hope to see you there. http://www.badgerbimmers.org/2000_Events/OFast2000/ofast2000.html http://www.roadamerica.com/images/maps/detail.gif -- Mike Clemens '97 M3/4 '00 S4
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Need to Bleed Clutch? (was: RE: bleeding the clutch) - from Sean Hester
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:03:13 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Need to Bleed Clutch? (was: RE: bleeding the clutch) >Do you have to bleed your clutch as part of the process to get the best >brake effort? Is there something special going on that the clutch needs to >be bled as well? it's nothing "special". the clutch just uses the same fluid, from the same resivoir as the brakes. so i suppose you DO need to bleed it to get the "most" of your bleeding effort. i never bled my clutch when i bled my brakes. BUT!!! i bled my brakes every two track events, so the fluid was plenty fresh. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#7. Wheel Repair--Bay Area - from Dennis Bowcut
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Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 22:35:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Dennis Bowcut <dbowcut@yahoo.com> Subject: Wheel Repair--Bay Area --Peter Guagenti asked: Where to Fix Bent Wheels? Try "Wheel Techniques" in Campbell (2885 Winchester Blvd). A cool 45 minute cruise South on 280 via M3 from SF. 408-866-5859 Several on this list have recommended, and I've seen the work and it's very nice. I'm too cheap to get my scuffs taken out, but I know prices vary from a low of $90 to whatever, based on size of trauma of course. Dennis 97 M3/4 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/
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#8. Swapping Strut Hats on '95 M3 - Caster Change - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 03:44:37 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Swapping Strut Hats on '95 M3 - Caster Change Anybody remember Bob Tunnell's comments about swapping strut hats on a '95 M3? I think he said swapping hats did little to increase camber but it decreased caster. Or was it rotating the hats while keeping them on the same side of the car? I've learned that my '95 M3 is out of spec for caster. It has always had a slight pull to the right. Dealer checked it early on and said my car was normal. I've lived with it since it is not that noticeable. However, since I started driving on R-compound tires on the street, the pull is much more severe. Apparently R-compound tires exaggerate the misalignment. According to my mechanic, my left front wheel has 6 minutes 16 seconds of caster vs. the right front wheel at 5 minutes 56 seconds. Normal range is 6 mim 8 sec to 7 min 8 sec. My mechanic measures things in minutes and seconds instead of degrees. My right wheel is out of spec and has significantly less caster than the left. I wonder if this is why my M3 pulls to the right? I'm going to see if I can even out the caster by swapping or rotating the strut hats. I don't think I can increase the caster in the right wheel but maybe I can reduce the caster on the left wheel so at least they are equal. Thanks for any info on the effects of swapping hats on a '95 M3. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 Dallas, Texas BMW CCA #131505
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#9. Warranty up, now stuff's breaking -- help with OBC - from S Flanagan
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Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 05:20:05 -0700 (PDT) From: S Flanagan <sf944@yahoo.com> Subject: Warranty up, now stuff's breaking -- help with OBC Well, doesn't that just figure? My '97 M3 just turned over to 50K miles earlier in the week. Last night, with 50,121 miles on the clock, the CHECK CONTROL light starts buggin' out on me and the OBC informs me of "BRAKE LIGHT CIRCUIT" failure. I got home and backed up against my garage wall to see if the lights were working -- they were. When I restarted the car an hour later, the warning was gone and all seems to be well. Is it just a fluke thing? Or can I expect what lots of Bim-wads have warned me of, that the drivelines are bullitproof, but everything else will break once the warranty's gone? Should I look further into the warning message? Thanks, Scott
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#10. CLutch bleeding - from Michael Turgeon
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Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 05:21:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Turgeon <turgeon1@yahoo.com> Subject: CLutch bleeding Gruppe: Thanks to everyone for there insightful advice. The car is moving and all seems to be well. Mike Turgeon BMW CCA #166866 95 M3 Avus __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/