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#1. Re: [E36M3] My opinion... - from Sean Hester
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 14:19:00 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] My opinion... >2) A well driven Viper with very mild suspension tweaking will be >'significantly' faster than an equally tweaked M3. A specific example >VIR-full course. An exceptionally well driven race-prepped M3 could maybe >turn about 2:14 to 2:16. Most experienced M3 pilots turn high >2:20s. During a recent Viper weekend the fastest time was 1:55!!!! The >first 12 positions were all under 2:10. That's a HUGE time >differential. M3s handle well but they're just a bit slower than those >snakes..... yes. vipers are faster then M3s in every way. remember... that "best handling" article has as much based on "how the car feels" as it was performance. by their standards an F1 car would have been the worst handling car in the test. impossible to feel the limits, no recovery options, not very much "feedback" throught the wheel, etc... also remember that the tests they do are with their own staff. and an M3 is easy to make go fast. (assuming you're a good driver already) if you spent 15 minutes in an M3 you'd be getting 95% of the performance out of it. if you spent 15 minutes in a F1 car you'd be getting 15% of the performance. the viper falls somewhere in the middle. meaning... with enough practice... i could probably get a viper through a corner as fast (or faster) then an M3. those 3 foot wide tires make ALOT OF GRIP. but it would be alot harder, and alot less fun then taking an M3 through the same corner. and of course... the vipers kill us on the straights. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#2. RE: My Opinion - from Mike Fleischer
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:20:26 -0500 From: "Mike Fleischer" <mfle@ti.com> Subject: RE: My Opinion Well, Not to beat a dead horse, but of course a well driven Viper is faster than a well driven M3. The Viper's only shortcomings are: 1. They get really hot in the cockpit 2. The stock brakes are woefully inadequate for extended track use and any high speed braking will cause fade very quickly 3. No cupholders For your money a Viper GTS is probably one of the best cars you can get and put on a track. My experience at Texas World Speedway with some Viper drivers was they could take horrible lines and get away with it since their cars handled so well, you would be mowing the lawn in an M3 trying similar bad lines at the same speed. Aside from braking earlier than you would in an M3 they outrun and outhandle a stock M3 by a large margin. I'm not knocking the M3, I love my M3. The M3 does handle great, but "best handling"? That's a very subjective thing. The M3 is easier to drive fast than a Viper and many other cars, but handles better? Nope, not unless you really play with the suspension. A well driven Viper is hard to catch in just about any other street car available today. Even though its a Dodge, its a great car. My $.02 Mike
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#3. Re: Contour wheels swap - from Paul_Kopecki@transwestern.net
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:42:48 -0500 From: Paul_Kopecki@transwestern.net Subject: Re: Contour wheels swap Kopecki's brainstorm of the day: would anyone like to trade two 17 X 7.5 Contour wheels for my two like new (1999) 17 X 8.5 Contours? I know this sounds kooky, especially to you damn Californians who have never seen snow, but I want to go 7.5 on all four wheels to best accomodate my snow tires. Wheels should be straight and true. Not interested in imposters. (referring to wheels, not list members).I might even throw in the A 032R's (25% left) I'm in Chicago. PK
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#4. Re: [E36M3] RE: My Opinion - from Captain Hags
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 18:52:26 EDT From: "Captain Hags" <captainhags@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: My Opinion Well soooooorrrrryyyyy! Chris '95 M3, handles like an OK dream, but a viper is like a really good dream, the kind you try to go back to sleep for because it was soooo damn good! >From: "Mike Fleischer" <mfle@ti.com> >Reply-To: "Mike Fleischer" <mfle@ti.com> >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> >Subject: [E36M3] RE: My Opinion >Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:35:17 -0500 > >Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:20:26 -0500 >From: "Mike Fleischer" <mfle@ti.com> >Subject: RE: My Opinion > >Well, > >Not to beat a dead horse, but of course a well driven Viper is faster than >a >well driven M3. The Viper's only shortcomings are: > >1. They get really hot in the cockpit >2. The stock brakes are woefully inadequate for extended track use and any >high speed braking will cause fade very quickly >3. No cupholders > >For your money a Viper GTS is probably one of the best cars you can get and >put on a track. My experience at Texas World Speedway with some Viper >drivers was they could take horrible lines and get away with it since their >cars handled so well, you would be mowing the lawn in an M3 trying similar >bad lines at the same speed. Aside from braking earlier than you would in >an M3 they outrun and outhandle a stock M3 by a large margin. I'm not >knocking the M3, I love my M3. The M3 does handle great, but "best >handling"? That's a very subjective thing. The M3 is easier to drive fast >than a Viper and many other cars, but handles better? Nope, not unless you >really play with the suspension. A well driven Viper is hard to catch in >just about any other street car available today. Even though its a Dodge, >its a great car. > >My $.02 > >Mike > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >************************************************************* > > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#5. underbody panel vs LTW splitter - from jbergstrom
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:26:59 -0500 From: "jbergstrom" <john@intellectsys.com> Subject: underbody panel vs LTW splitter >>>>Dragging sound? Plastic piece hanging below the engine? Hmmm, never heard of this one. Not! Welcome to the club. It'll run ya about 85skins, and the suspected cause is driving fast. go figure. <<<< aaahhhh yes!!! the wonderful, plastic-clip-barely-held-on flimsy underbody panel! I am pretty sure it is supposed to create a low pressure area in front that provides some added downforce at higher speeds. If you scrape it on curbs or hit something against it the clips break or wear off and then when you come up to speed it will rip off. Otherwise, it should stay on. Some people have posted before about reinforcing the plastic tabs with bent aluminum sheet. However, this is all underkill. Really, this is just another reason everyone should quit messing around dropping 85 bucks here and there and just go out and buy the LTW splitter. It permanently solves the underbody panel problem. Of course, you then must learn to back into parking spaces and avoid any road incline of more than 5 degrees or speed bump higher than 3 inches. And you will also need the LTW rear wing with the spacers to balance out the added downforce. ;-) John '95 M3 (with splitter and wing, always having to take many, many detours to avoid damage)
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#6. Re: [E36M3] underbody panel vs LTW splitter - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 16:12:27 -0700 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@pluris.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] underbody panel vs LTW splitter Another question on this. Has anyone tried duct-taping the pieces together during track events/autoXs etc. I believe that mine fell off during or right after my last autoX. Bora jbergstrom wrote: > Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:26:59 -0500 > From: "jbergstrom" <john@intellectsys.com> > Subject: underbody panel vs LTW splitter > > >>>>Dragging sound? Plastic piece hanging below the engine? Hmmm, never > heard of this one. Not! Welcome to the club. It'll run ya about 85skins, > and the suspected cause is driving fast. go figure. <<<< > > aaahhhh yes!!! the wonderful, plastic-clip-barely-held-on flimsy underbody > panel! I am pretty sure it is supposed to create a low pressure area in > front that provides some added downforce at higher speeds. If you scrape it > on curbs or hit something against it the clips break or wear off and then > when you come up to speed it will rip off. Otherwise, it should stay on. > Some people have posted before about reinforcing the plastic tabs with bent > aluminum sheet. > > However, this is all underkill. Really, this is just another reason > everyone should quit messing around dropping 85 bucks here and there and > just go out and buy the LTW splitter. It permanently solves the underbody > panel problem. Of course, you then must learn to back into parking spaces > and avoid any road incline of more than 5 degrees or speed bump higher than > 3 inches. And you will also need the LTW rear wing with the spacers to > balance out the added downforce. ;-) > > John > '95 M3 (with splitter and wing, always having to take many, many detours to > avoid damage) > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#7. Re: Euro Spec Mirror - from Gleb Arshinov
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Date: 27 Sep 2000 17:24:32 -0700 From: Gleb Arshinov <gleb@barsook.com> Subject: Re: Euro Spec Mirror >>>>> "Jeffrey" == Jeffrey Stowe <jstowe@cisco.com> writes: Jeffrey> If someone has another solution which adresses Jeffrey> the blind spot please let me know. Adjust your mirrors properly. Procedures for doing this have been discussed here multiple times. There will be no "blind spot" big enough to hide a car in your lane and in 1 lane on each side. Gleb
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#8. Badger Bimmers at Road America - Novice opening available - from Mike Clemens
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:07:31 -0500 From: Mike Clemens <mclemens@execpc.com> Subject: Badger Bimmers at Road America - Novice opening available We have had a few cancellation and now have 5 openings in the novice run group. The intermediate group is full but there are still a few openings for the advanced/lapping group and for instructors. The advanced/lapping group requires four or five point harnesses. Join the Badger Bimmer club at its Road America driver's school. Road America (about 50 miles north of Milwaukee) is one of the worlds great road courses. Four miles of long straights, fast corners, big elevation changes and the famous kink. The school will be held on October 7th and 8th. Instructors, lappers and advanced students may also drive on Friday, October 6th. I've been to this school each of the last 3 years and it has always been well run and a lot of fun. Links to the application on the Badger Bimmer site and to a track map for Road America are below. Hope to see you there. http://www.badgerbimmers.org/2000_Events/OFast2000/ofast2000.html http://www.roadamerica.com/images/maps/detail.gif -- Mike Clemens '97 M3/4 '00 S4
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#9. Re: Euro Spec Mirror - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 02:33:50 GMT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Euro Spec Mirror Jeff, Chester Wong managed the group purchase. The replacement mirror is like the mirror you have on the passenger side, except it doesn't have the disclaimer etched into it. I didn't replace the mirror on the passenger side. Chester was taking orders for both, and the passenger side replacement didn't have the disclaimer on it. The part number for the driver side mirror is 51 16 2 267 191. It's taking me awhile to get used to it, especially since I drive another car (E34 525iT) as a daily driver. It's a very weird view through the mirror, not something I've been used to viewing for the 25 years that I've been driving. I'm extra cautious and check twice because I still don't trust my judgement of the view. In reality, I don't believe that these mirrors are used on the driver's side of Euro M3s. Instead, I believe that they are used on the _passenger_ side of right-hand drive M3s. I think that a driver's side mirror is always a flat mirror. One strange thing about this mirror is that it REALLY heats up compared to the mirror on the passenger side. I'm not sure it does this, unless my stock mirrors really didn't heat up. I measured the resistance of the mirror's heating elements and found that the US mirror was 27.5k ohms, and the Euro mirror was 7.7 ohms! Using Ohm's law for current, I=E/R US mirror draws 0.5 Amps (14/27500) Euro mirror draws 1.8 Amps (14/7.7) Since the mirror circuit is fused at 10 Amps, it shouldn't cause a problem. However, I removed the mirror from my car and put the original mirror back in the car for now. -rb >Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:52:29 -0700 >From: Jeffrey Stowe <jstowe@cisco.com> >Subject: Euro Spec Mirror > >Recently there was a discussion of a drivers side euro spec mirror which >was convex (??concave?? whatever) and helped reduce the blind spot on the >drivers side. I think there was even a group purchase organized. Can >someone provide me with the part number for this mirror and a suggestion on >where to order. The BOSS is most displeased with this blind spot and has >demanded a solution. If someone has another solution which adresses the >blind spot please let me know. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Euro Spec Mirror - from NickG
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Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:42:53 -0400 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Euro Spec Mirror > I measured the resistance of the mirror's heating elements and found that > the US mirror was 27.5k ohms, and the Euro mirror was 7.7 ohms! > > Using Ohm's law for current, I=E/R > > US mirror draws 0.5 Amps (14/27500) > Euro mirror draws 1.8 Amps (14/7.7) Actually, for the US mirror, 14/27500 = .0005 Amps = .5 mA (that's one-half of a milli-amp) Nick