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#1. Who should be taken off list - from HYPERM3@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:39:15 EDT From: HYPERM3@aol.com Subject: Who should be taken off list I think people that copy a whole previous list to the next list just to prove a pertinent point to what they are saying should be removed, or taught how to cut and paste. Whichever comes first.... Alex "$. 02" Demsky
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#2. Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 GT3 versus 911 - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 16:54:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 GT3 versus 911 On Mon, 2 Oct 2000, Chris Casey wrote: > For that matter, does anyone know the reason behind > BMW sticking with 3.2L rather than bumping it to 3.4 > or 3.6? Cost? Future V8 plans? > > -Chris > This was discussed at length a bit ago. I believe it came down to fact that the e46 motor is the old e36 euro motor and the cylinder spacing only allowed 3.29 liters. So, whatever could be gotten out of the old motor easily is what they did. At least we get a nice motor now, but I'm afraid that PTG is stuck with the same old motor they've been using for the entire e46 generation unless bmw introduces something new... (like a V8). On another thread, I've been discussing motor configurations and such with a coworker. I don't understand the "balanced" thing. From what we could draw on the whiteboard, the inline 6 has 60 degrees crank rotation between each piston hitting TDC. I picked 60 degrees from 360/6. Seems to be reasonable enouph. I can't see how firing order is going to really matter because for either inline 6, v 6 or opposed 6, only one piston is getting fired at once. So I don't see where vibration would be coming from. What am I missing? What I really need is a 3D model of various motor configurations so I can see how they work. american V8 vs ferrari V8 would be interesting. Any motor with different spacing between TDC. Jason
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#3. Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 GT3 versus 911 - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 16:56:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 GT3 versus 911 On Mon, 2 Oct 2000, Jim Powell wrote: > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 15:59:09 -0700 > From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] E46 M3 GT3 versus 911 > > Its also possible that the P-Car exited the previous curve slightly > faster. By the end of the straight..... > > Jim > true. but stucky would have to really screwy the poochy. Jason
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#4. Best M3 Upgrade - from John Van Houten
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 11:51:48 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Best M3 Upgrade As far best M3 upgrade, it has to be the driver... At Gingerman last weekend with the Michiana chapter, I drove my wife's bone stock, other than Euro rotors and PF90s, at the track while my car waits for new engine (or more importantly to save $ to pay for it). To say I was utterly amazed at the capabilities of a stock E36M3 is an understatement. After driving a _heavily_ modified M3 (Ice9) on the track so much, it was a good exercise to drive a stock car on street tires. Was it as fast as Ice9--definitely not, but lap times were in the 1:42s on street tires. I couldn't believe it, especially since I wasn't pushing it too hard b/c my wife was also driving in the school (first time, hence the street tires). It did take a little getting used to--more body roll, less braking b/c of tires, more understeer, etc., but the limits of a stock M3 are way up there, and unless your last name is Schumacher, you're not going to be there until a lot of schools. To make an M3 fast (and safe) on the track, all you really need is stainless lines, good pads, and 4 point harnesses. Add R compound tires after a few schools. Then add a rollbar and 6pt harness as you really start hustling the car. Do other mods gradually--you'll get a better understanding of what each one does. You'll learn a lot more in an unmodified car and be a better driver in the long run. John - first 8 schools in a stock E30 325... 95M3 "Ice9" - wounded 97M3/4 - Hers - bone stock
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#5. Best M3 Upgrade - from Leff, Larry
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 20:18:50 -0400 From: "Leff, Larry" <lleff@Ajilon.com> Subject: Best M3 Upgrade I'll have to go with the RMS / Vortech supercharger! Oh...what the hell: 1995 M3 with... UUC shortshift, UUC Oil Center, UUC upper tie bar, Bilstein shocks with M3 LTW Springs, M3 LTW wing, Fikse wheels, various gauges, euro HFM, AA Exhaust, X-brace, euro floating rotors w/Porterfield R4 pads Larry Leff Sr. Account Manager Ajilon Office Phone: 781.272.7393 Cellular: 617.947.5822 FAX: 781.272.2433 Email: lleff@ajilon.com <mailto:lleff@ajilon.com>
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#6. What are 3.2 rear bushings? - from Rob
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 18:20:16 -0600 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: What are 3.2 rear bushings? A few times now I've seen people reffering to "3.2 rear bushings" and I'm not sure what they are. Does the '96+ M3 3.2L use different rear subframe or control arm bushings?. If so can they be retrofitted to any E36 model? TIA, Rob >
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Re: UUC Short Shifter - from Andy Korczynski
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:22:09 -0500 From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: UUC Short Shifter This is exactly the kind of ATTITUDE I got from UUC when I told them there was a problem. It must be something I did. Well I'd be the first one to admit if I screwed up. The instructions I had did have the warning about tigthening the bolts too. If I overtigthened them they would have stripped in which case I would have screwed and screwed without hitting a stopping point. This did not happen. Why is it that when I say the bolts grinded away the carrier to the point where the ERK was loose no one wants to believe me? Ooops I forgot UUC is GOD. The problem at this point isn't the ERK. The ERK I have is fine, there is NO thread damage so purchasing another one will solve nothing. It's the carrier that is damaged as a result of the ERK screws. Each time i tighten the screws back up on the ERK it lasts for a month or two till they grind away at the carrier and make the ERK loose again. And even if the ERK was damaged, why the hell should I give UUC MORE money for something they didn't design very well in the first place? Hypotheticaly speaking, if I did strip the threads why was this possible? Why didn't they just make the damn ERK out of steel or devised a better mechanism for attaching the ERK to the carrier????? So I'm gonna soon be driving around with my new STOCK shifter and keep my personal vandetta against UUC since I must have screwed something up and it couldn't have been something that the Almighty overlooked in their design. I guess I'm an oddball. I am starting to realize (after owning my M3 for a bit over a year) that most mods (minus tires and going to driving schools) are crap and not designed very well and are total waste of money. Andy K. Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 19:13:36 GMT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: UUC Short Shifter [I don't work for UUC, nor do I play a UUC employee on TV...] Andy, Since the ERK is aluminum and the ERK screws are steel, perhaps you tightened them too much and damaged the threads on the ERK cup, causing it to loosen. See page 4 on: http://www.shortshifter.com/pdfs/UUC%20ERK%20Install%20Instructions%20Only.P DF Two quotes: "Tighten the bolts between 4-6 inch-pounds (not foot-pounds)" and [Bold Print] "Damage to the ERK due to overtightening is not considered a defect!" My guess is that UUC had many people calling and complaining that their ERK loosened up, and after providing multiple "free" replacement ERKs, discovered that people were overtightening the screws. Hence, the bold print disclaimer in their instructions. Perhaps this disclaimer wasn't in the early instructions that you may have received. I installed my UUC SS in September, 1999, and the bold print disclaimer was in there. In any case, if UUC wouldn't _give_ you a replacement ERK, did you inquire about _purchasing_ a replacement ERK? Personally, I would rather admit to messing up the ERK and paying for a replacement, rather than drive around with a loose shifter and a personal vendetta, but, maybe I'm an oddball... :-) -rb >Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 07:00:23 -0500 >From: Andy Korczynski <Andy@casskor.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: UUC Short Shifter > >Just for the record I wasn't trying to BASH anyone for the hell of it. I >was just letting everyone know what my experiences were with this product. >I also grinded the carrier and never had trouble engaging any gears, but >the ERK just never wanted to stay attached to the carrier and UUC's answer >to that was "well you must have put it in wrong since its installed on >1000's of cars and its working fine." <snip> > Maybe the type of carrier >that I have on my car is softer then most, maybe I got some defective >screws, who knows. But what I do know is that UUC failed to correct the >problem, blaming me for improper installation. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Re: UUC Short Shifter - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 17:40:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: UUC Short Shifter Andy, I know this is besides the point, but, as a fellow M3 owner I'd like to see you happy with your car. If you are anywhere near bay area, I got a MIG welder. I'm sure we can figure out some way of attaching that ERK thing on there so it won't come off... Jason
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#9. Code 1226 Revisited - from Matt Henson
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 17:43:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Code 1226 Revisited I've been having problems with a CE light and code 1226 - Knock Sensor #2 for several months. Since I installed an AA turbo kit, really. The light comes on at part throttle, 3k RPM, usually right before a 1st to 2nd shift. I'd previously switched the sensors to see if I could get the code to switch to #1. Nope. I realized that I didn't properly torque the sensors at that time so I figured that this was the problem. Well, yesterday I re-torqued and cleaned the sensors. And.. the light is still there. I've also monitored the sensors with a 'scope to make sure that they work. Both look like they have the same waveform while the car is running, just out of phase since they are on different cylinders. So I'm inclined to believe that the problem isn't being caused by the sensors at all. My engine is very quiet and doesn't exhibit any other symptoms. Detonation seems to be reasonably controlled. I do hear it occasionally if if hits >7PSI boost when its hot outside. If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them. Otherwise just consider this an update. -Matt __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Garage cleaning giveaway - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 18:11:21 -0700 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Garage cleaning giveaway I'll take those SS braided lines if you've got 'em. My address is: Peter Guagenti 3505 Sonoma Blvd. Vallejo, CA 94590 on 10/2/00 2:55 PM, Jim Powell at jsp98m3@home.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 14:27:27 -0700 > From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> > Subject: Garage cleaning giveaway > > Its that time again. > > Free-O-Charge stuff. > > One complete set of original, visually perfect stock brake lines off my > '98 E36 M3/4. I personally don't recommend using USED brake parts, but > if you have some use for them or just like spare parts. Here they are. > > One half set of Fischer braided steel lines for stock M3 calipers. Rear > only and only for the short section from the connector to the caliper. > This is normally a two piece kit. I used the kit when I put on the > P-Car front brakes. When I added the rear P-Car brakes, they use a > different hose from the connection to the caliper. These have about 500 > miles tops on them. > > Either/Both free to the first person who asks for them. Send $5 to Suzy > or the Police Benevolence Fund to cover my shipping cost. > > Hasta, > > Jim > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > >