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#1. H&R Spring Question - from F. Graziano
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:59:05 -0400 From: "F. Graziano" <fgraziano@monmouth.com> Subject: H&R Spring Question i have a 95 M3 and want to lower it. I was looking on the Turner website and i saw the HR springs and the HR Race springs. Now i can obviously see that the Race springs lower the car more that is not my question. My question is A.) does anyone have these (race version), and B are you still able to drive around town ie. speed bumps, potholes and the like without killing your front spoiler??? Thanks, Frank
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#2. Re:PF90's rattling - from Steve Walsh
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Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 10:02:03 -0700 From: Steve Walsh <stevewalsh@earthlink.net> Subject: Re:PF90's rattling John, the rattling, squealing and dusting of the PF90's are BADGES OF HONOR!! "...we're not using no punk-ass $20 a set street pads!"
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#3. PF90s versus Hi-Hos - from jbergstrom
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:05:22 -0500 From: "jbergstrom" <john@intellectsys.com> Subject: PF90s versus Hi-Hos >>>John, don't be so damn lazy, changing the pads only adds another 15 or 20 minutes to the swap time.<<< In 15 minutes I could easily eat another 3 1/2 Hi-Ho's. Besides, I thought you have to swap rotors as well to prevent mixing pad compounds? And, I plan on using PF90's all the way around, not just on the fronts. So that's 4 pads and 4 rotors. There was one time that I snuck 2 Hi-Ho's on board my M3 during a session and each time my instructor looked the other way, I was able to gulp a half one down. Maybe I can use his technique to make up for the pad/rotor swapping downtime? John '95 M3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] PF90s versus Hi-Hos - from Rich Gay
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Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 12:29:46 -0500 From: "Rich Gay" <rich_gay@linbeck.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] PF90s versus Hi-Hos on 10/3/00 12:06 PM, jbergstrom at john@intellectsys.com wrote: >>>> John, don't be so damn lazy, changing the pads only adds another 15 or 20 > minutes to the swap time.<<< > > In 15 minutes I could easily eat another 3 1/2 Hi-Ho's. Besides, I thought > you have to swap rotors as well to prevent mixing pad compounds? I think that is some old wife's tale... I never bother to swap rotors, no problems. I swap the PF90's at the track and MetalMasters for the street. > And, I > plan on using PF90's all the way around, not just on the fronts. So that's > 4 pads and 4 rotors. Yes, that what I do, and can swap all four corners in 45 to 60 minutes. Part of the swap efficiency I attribute to the way-cool SnapOn coordless impact gun, the rest is just having done it so many times I can just about keep my eyes closed. > There was one time that I snuck 2 Hi-Ho's on board my > M3 during a session and each time my instructor looked the other way, I was > able to gulp a half one down. Maybe I can use his technique to make up for > the pad/rotor swapping downtime? What the heck is a hi-ho, some sort of minced Disney-dwarf pastry? - Rich
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#5. Help - Dealer trying to charge for alignment! - from vernon@sprynet.com
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Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 13:29:44 -0400 From: vernon@sprynet.com Subject: Help - Dealer trying to charge for alignment! My 98 M3/2 has a bad right front tie rod that the dealer said they are going to replace under warranty when the part arrives this Thursday. They will NOT however, realign the car as part of the install unless I pay them for the alignment ($99). I think that this is total and complete BS. I have had numerous discussions about this with them during the past week, but they will not budge. A few questions for the group: 1. Has anyone run into this before? IMO, any tie rod work you do on a car requires an alignment. Hell, isn't that the only part you can adjust in the front of an E36? I don't think the install of a tie rod is complete unless you re-align the car. I just had it aligned in August, so I'm a little upset about this. 2. If they won't budge, what successful (or unsuccessful but personally satisfying) methods have others used for this type of stupid dealer behavior, short of beating the service manager with the damaged tie rod? Any good calling BMW NA or is it a waste of time? Thanks in advance for any advice. I'll even listen to opposing opinions that I'm not owed an alignment (provided they come with a good argument!). Vern Anderson 98 ///M3/2 with one good tie rod Looking for a good dealer anywhere east of the Mississippi.....
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Help - Dealer trying to charge for alignment! - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 10:40:46 -0700 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@pluris.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help - Dealer trying to charge for alignment! If you mark the previous tie-rod adjustment spots carefully, under ideal conditions you may get by without an alignment; however, I would recommend against this. I have had parts on my cars that were replaced under warranty and under almost all cases I had to pay for alignment. I don't think there is much you can do in this case. What I would do in this case, is to swap out my stock suspension for some H&R or RD suspension setup right before the tie-rod gets replaced and then pay for the alignment ;-) Bora vernon@sprynet.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 13:29:44 -0400 > From: vernon@sprynet.com > Subject: Help - Dealer trying to charge for alignment! > > My 98 M3/2 has a bad right front tie rod that the dealer said they are going to replace under warranty when the part arrives this Thursday. They will NOT however, realign the car as part of the install unless I pay them for the alignment ($99). I think that this is total and complete BS. I have had numerous discussions about this with them during the past week, but they will not budge. A few questions for the group: > > 1. Has anyone run into this before? IMO, any tie rod work you do on a car requires an alignment. Hell, isn't that the only part you can adjust in the front of an E36? I don't think the install of a tie rod is complete unless you re-align the car. I just had it aligned in August, so I'm a little upset about this. > > 2. If they won't budge, what successful (or unsuccessful but personally satisfying) methods have others used for this type of stupid dealer behavior, short of beating the service manager with the damaged tie rod? Any good calling BMW NA or is it a waste of time? > > Thanks in advance for any advice. I'll even listen to opposing opinions that I'm not owed an alignment (provided they come with a good argument!). > > Vern Anderson > 98 ///M3/2 with one good tie rod > Looking for a good dealer anywhere east of the Mississippi..... > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#7. H&R Spring Question - from dennis quan
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Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 10:43:02 -0700 (PDT) From: dennis quan <dcquan@yahoo.com> Subject: H&R Spring Question Frank, I have the Bilstein and H&R race spring setup. On Saturday, I had four passengers in my car and I had to go over 6 speed bumps. I went really slowly and I didn't scrape at all. I was really surprised. I don't recommend trying this unless you have upgraded shocks. With OEM shocks, you will probably scrape. Driving around town is no problem. I live in San Francisco and the roads around here suck. Dennis Frank wrote: i have a 95 M3 and want to lower it. I was looking on the Turner website and i saw the HR springs and the HR Race springs. Now i can obviously see that the Race springs lower the car more that is not my question. My question is A.) does anyone have these (race version), and B are you still able to drive around town ie. speed bumps, potholes and the like without killing your front spoiler???Thanks,Frank __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Urgent - Poor braking behavior - from Sean Hester
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Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 10:56:22 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Urgent - Poor braking behavior >My BMW M3 E36 suddenly has vert poor braking behavior. The car has new >brake disks front (floating rotors) and rear, new GOODRIDGE brake lines >and ATE blue racing brake fluid. >Can you give me an explanation ? Do you think that there could be a >damaged brake master cylinder ? > >In the anticipation of your feed-back I remain, > >Best Regards, >Dimitris how long has it been since you had the new brake parts? it takes about 100 miles for brakes to bed in under normal driving. if it's not been that long, then i would expect the brakes to not grip very well. and did you bed them in carefully? no hard stops for the first several dozen miles? then a few hard stops until the pads/rotors were mated? if you overuse the brakes before they are properly bedded, they'll NEVER work quite right. if it not either of those, then i can't help much. that's about the limit of my mechanical knowledge. ;-) _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] PF90's rattling - from Sean Hester
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Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 10:59:40 PDT From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] PF90's rattling >Yes, this topic has been discussed before, but I don't think I ever saw >anyone post an elegant solution for adding clips or shims to keep the >PF90's >from rattling. > >Porterfield recommended brake shims that are sticky on both sides to hold >the pads in place. I found these shims at a brake service place ("Just >Brakes") and asked the manager about them, he says he really does not like >them, and that "as soon as the brakes get above 450 degrees, they're going >to come loose, and the loose shim might even cause some damage." Well, in >track conditions, I'm sure the brakes get much hotter than 450 degrees . . >. > >Porterfield also said that if I sent them a set of stock pads they could >take the clips off of them and somehow weld or fix them onto the PF90s. >They didn't mention any charge or anything for this, I'm sure it would be >something. > >I've used stock pads up to now, and am very very fat and clumsy and even >more lazy and I don't own any tools and I'm allergic to brake dust and I >don't really want to switch back and forth and worry about different pad >compounds coating my rotors. Change pads AND rotors for every event?!?!?! >ARE YOU CRAZY?!?!?!? It's already a pain to change wheels!!!! And I >like >to spend my time eating Hi-Ho's. ;-) > >So if anyone out there is wearing PF90's on the street and has found a way >to prevent the infamous rattling, please let me or all of us know. Thanks! no. it's pretty mcuh impossible. they're racing parts and aren't designed to be "user friendly". pads will melt if you get them hot. (2 laps at a track) clips are expensive to install. (i paid $50 one time, $85 another) AND they'll come off under hard use anyway. of the 8 pads i "clipped" 5 clips came off, 2 clips broke, and one clip was "loose" (meaning the pads rattled anyway) so... i gave up... _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#10. Brakes - 1999 M3 Replacement Info - from Martyme104@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 14:09:31 EDT From: Martyme104@aol.com Subject: Brakes - 1999 M3 Replacement Info Seeking DYS instructions for standard brake pad replacement on 1999 M3 w/ 21k miles squeeling. Is there an archieve or URL that would provide comprehensive instructions. I have done others (M5 and 325e), but would appreciate the benefit of other list members relating to pitfalls and associated "should do's" while in the process. Email direct is okay at Martyme104@aol.com - Thank you for sharing and helping me get rid of the noise! Marty Marlboro, MA 1999 M3 21K