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#1. RE: [E36M3] Re: Brake duct advice and opinions needed - from MDadgar@handspring.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:06:08 -0700 From: MDadgar@handspring.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Brake duct advice and opinions needed Neil wrote: > I cut the stock backing plates off with tin snips without much difficulty. > This was my big excuse to buy a Dremel. It cut through the backing plates like a hot knife through buttah. What a great tool. - Mark, dying to try his new Snap-On CT350 at the track '95 M3 '97 528i 5-spd '88 M3, Hennarot ---- Mark Dadgar - Product Manager, Peripherals (650) 230-5037 voice - (650) 230-2100 fax mdadgar@handspring.com - Handspring, Inc. Check out Visor at www.handspring.com!
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#2. re: clutch slippage at 19K miles?? - from Ron Katona
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Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 21:44:38 -0400 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: re: clutch slippage at 19K miles?? Paul Elliott wrote: > What usually happens the few times I've tried it... ^^^^^^^^^ > I tried it a couple of more times, using both 4th and 5th... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > Then, to double check, I tried a couple of agressive first to second shifts... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > When I got home, the car stunk of clutch... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > I just tried another 2 tests for slippage... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > Third overall test was to start car, put it into third... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Now Paul, ever hear of _non_destructive testing? <g> I'm 100% positive that given enough of these tests, you'll find exactly what you're looking for - a bad clutch! If it wasn't bad before, it probably is now! If the clutch isn't slipping under normal use or the occasional hard acceleration, don't worry about it. Yes, with a supercharger and "only" 20 timed acceleration runs, you can go through a clutch in a weekend much less 19k miles. -- Ron Katona
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#3. E36 M3 Help - Harmonic Sound? - from Christopher J. N. Kolaitis
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 06:36:31 -0500 From: "Christopher J. N. Kolaitis" <chrisjnk@ix.netcom.com> Subject: E36 M3 Help - Harmonic Sound? I would appreciate your valued opinions on the possible source or condition causing a harmonic sound or vibration? Here is the situation for your consideration: 1997 E36 M3/4 with current mileage of 36,300, car is in excellent condition. Loud harmonic sound appears at 3,500 rpm and departs at 4,200 rpm, in all gears under load only. The loud harmonic sound is located in the passenger compartment, just in front of the passenger seat and just to the left of the center console shifter. Passenger left orientation. Conversion of automatic to BMW 5-speed manual, with Dinan stage 2 Lightweight Clutch Assembly and UUC Short Shifter All new BMW parts with a BMW rebuilt transmission including the Dinan Stage 2 Lightweight Clutch assembly were installed. Mileage was 32,173 miles at time of the conversion. May 9, 2000, loud harmonic sound appeared during road test, following the install. Car passes road test. During the road test clutch felt soft, noticed a left over internal clutch spring, forgot to install clutch spring, installed clutch spring. July 5, 2000 at 33,078 miles, Knauz BMW replaces the exhaust system under warranty, loud harmonic sound problem still not resolved. August 1, 2000 at 33,957 miles, Knauz BMW investigates the origin of loud harmonic noise. Service technicians were unable to determine source of harmonic sound after extensive investigation. Transmission replaced under warranty and installed with original Dinan Stage 2 Lightweight Clutch assembly. Harmonic sound still present. Dinan Stage 2 Lightweight Clutch assembly replaced with new BMW stock clutch assembly. Loud harmonic sound is not present during extensive shop and road testing. Replacement Dinan Stage 2 Clutch, pressure plate and lightweight flywheel ordered and installed. Loud harmonic sound reappears at 3,500 rpm and departs at 4,200 rpm, in all gears under load only. The loud harmonic sound is located in the passenger compartment, just in front of the passenger seat and just to the left of the center console shifter. Passenger left orientation. Clutch assembly sent to Dinan for testing, all balanced perfectly with no problems found. No under drive pulleys installed. TIA, Chris, Windy City Chapter 97 M3/4 Dinan daily driver
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#4. Re: [E36M3] SSR questions and possible sale - from John Van Houten
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:46:04 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] SSR questions and possible sale > I tried using both spacers on one side and this worked, but vibrated badly. > I'm slightly miffed - now what? Get the 15mm HR spacers from Turner. I've run both 17x9 Fikse's and IFG wheels on both a 95 M3 with a coilover suspension and a stock 97 M3/4 with only minor fender rolling in the rear. The offset is 37.5 on the Fikse's, 42.5 on the IFGs, I believe. I do get some very mild rubbing of the inner fender well with the IFGs with 255/40 Kumhos, however. Nothing to worry about. John 95M3 "Ice9" - wounded 97M3/4 - Hers
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#5. Brake ducts - from shane.a.kleinpeter@ac.com
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 08:56:52 -0400 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@ac.com Subject: Brake ducts >I'm considering adding brake ducts to my front rotors. For a while I considered removing >the (useless) fog lights and adding a second brake duct, but lately I'm thinking about >just adding a duct/hose to each existing brake duct and routing it to the back of the >rotor, possibly with the plates from Turner. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences >with a setup like this? I'm obviously worried about tire/wheel interference at full >steering lock. I think that adding a duct right to the rotor may be a better next step >than the whole fog light extraction Vern, Bimmerworld has a kit like the one you refer to (www.bimmerworld.com) as advertised in the Roundel. I have had the kit for a year now and really like it for track duty. There is some interference at full steering lock, but I have gotten used to it. The great thing about the kit is that the hose that runs from the inner fender liner to the rotor is removable, so you only leave the hoses on when you are at the track, then remove them when you pull off your track tires. Some people (me included) have had some problems with the fender liners tearing at the support screws as a result of the extra weight of the ducting. I simply riveted some sheet metal (Ok a cut up license plate) around the mounting hole on the screw directly above the ducting, and added a large washer, and have had no problems since. No affiliation, etc., just a satisfied customer. Shane Kleinpeter Tarheel Chapter '96 M3 '88 535is
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#6. My experience with brake ducting - from Holeman, David
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 09:28:40 -0500 From: "Holeman, David" <david.holeman@viaticus.com> Subject: My experience with brake ducting Vern writes: Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 17:11:03 -0400 From: vernon@sprynet.com Subject: Brake duct advice and opinions needed "I'm considering adding brake ducts to my front rotors. For a while I considered removing the (useless) fog lights and adding a second brake duct, but lately I'm thinking about just adding a duct/hose to each existing brake duct and routing it to the back of the rotor, possibly with the plates from Turner. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with a setup like this? I'm obviously worried about tire/wheel interference at full steering lock. I think that adding a duct right to the rotor may be a better next step than the whole fog light extraction. I've seen some decent looking home-grown setups at driving events, everyone seems to be happy with them. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!" Well here we go based on my experience... I used the backing plates from turner as I had to replace my hubs anyway but aside from that the bimmerworld product is the easiest to install. You will have to sacrifice your old backing plate - no big deal there. In my case I did pick up the stainless steel backing plates and flanges from bimmerworld. These are nice as it makes it easy to replace the hose section between the wheel well and the backing plate. The hose will wear out and it takes quite a beating. I got my 3" silicon hose from racerpartswholesale. The stuff is not cheap at about $7.00 a foot and it only comes in 11' sections. If you are installing with a stock suspension you will be fine. However, if you have coilovers all bets are off. I found that tire hit the flang and hose even when I tried to mount them even further in than the bimmerworld instructions indicated. Moreover the hose routing tends to really bind up given the much tighter space you have to work with. I am not dissing the products here just giving a heads up that I was unsuccessful in finding a good instalation solution. I will shoot myself in the foot on this one and say that trying to run the brake ducting from the fog lights over to the location where the bimmerworld flang should go does not work well. There are two problems: 1. The hose has to run over the existing brake duct and has to make several twists. 2. The more turns you have in the hose the less direct the airflow and the less cooling. I tried this setup and it actually restricted airflow and I warped a $600.00 pair of rotors - ouch! Live and learn. Although I have not tried it yet as I have been working on this problem it looks like a solution that is as direct as possible makes the most sense. Some custom race confiurations use a underbody panel scoup to direct air into the hose. For a more common street solution the JTD solution where it picks up the air behind the front grill makes good sense. I can see where you can have a straight line from the grill to the flang and from there to the backing plate. Since I sell the fiberglass fog light duct replacements I recommend them more for flowing air to intake systems than for brake ducting. David Holeman www.racepad.com
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#7. FS Pirelli Winter 210's - from Paul_Kopecki@transwestern.net
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:36:36 -0500 From: Paul_Kopecki@transwestern.net Subject: FS Pirelli Winter 210's Hey you Northern listers. The snow is 12 inches deep in the Upper Peninsula already. Time to think snow tyres. I have two very good condition Pirelli Winter 210's,used two seasons. 225 - 45 - 17. Asking $100 for both / OBO. I'm in the Chicago area. PK
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#8. ripped caliper piston dust boot.... - from George M. Kofman
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 11:25:39 -0500 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: ripped caliper piston dust boot.... Folks; Last weekend at Road America I had to replace both sets (F&R) sets of pads. No big deal. Until I found the RR piston dust covered was ripped. Oh well. Wear and tear... so, my question is as follows - how quickly do I need to rebuild this caliper in order to replace the dust cover ? is this ASAP thing or do I have a month or two ? TIA GMK '97 M3/4 with lotsa track miles
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#9. 3.0 Euro motor experience - from Holeman, David
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 11:20:40 -0500 From: "Holeman, David" <david.holeman@viaticus.com> Subject: 3.0 Euro motor experience Hi, Does anyone have any experience with installing a 93 pre EWS euro motor in a early pre EWS 95 M3? This is one option I am considering and may have the opportunity to take advantage of. I would appreciate it if anyone familair with this or major issues around doing this would share their experience with me and let me ask a few questions. Thanks. David Holeman
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#10. RE: [E36M3] SSR questions and possible sale - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 12:22:13 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] SSR questions and possible sale Greg wrote > Anyone interested in 2-17x9 SSR's? Then I can buy two new 17x8's (as can you) and be back in business. Or should I just sell the whole set? From what I hear the 17x9's are very hard to get and are much more expensive than the 17x8's (about $350/wheel new vs. $275 for the 8's). Where can you get SSR Integrals 17 x 8 for $275?? Tire Rack sells it for $309 which is the cheapest I know. Best regards, Rich