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#1. Re: [E36M3] Lifetime parts once replaced once. - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 16:59:31 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lifetime parts once replaced once. Oh, believe me that I already thought about that. I was thinking about flushing the filter with water first....and maybe cut it while it's still filled with water.... Thanks for your concern about my self-preservation! =) Chester > I speak for most of the group when I advise you to be careful. This > potential scenario contains two potentially dangerous items: > > - a knife or some tool to "cut that sucker" open > - a device which previously filtered gasoline and probably still has > some residual. > > Heed this advice to be careful, otherwise we may have another Chester story > ;-) ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer. http://experts.yahoo.com/
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#2. Wheel Bearing Replacement Fad - from Steve D'Gerolamo
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 20:08:24 -0500 From: "Steve D'Gerolamo" <steved3@idt.net> Subject: Wheel Bearing Replacement Fad BMW wheel bearings will wear with age and abuse and become a bit sloppy in terms of runout. A runout of .002-.003" at the bearing hub will cause .006-.010" runout at the outer circumference of the brake rotor. BMW (and many other manufacturers) use floating piston calipers because of lower cost and because they are far more tolerant of hub and rotor runout. The folks with the 96-99 cars that are stopping by on Saturday all have Movit brake upgrades. Three of these people just installed their kits and the rotors were trued to a specific runout (.025mm or .001"). If the bearings that hold these new disks are out of spec, the rotors will become warped within 1000-1500 miles of driving. This is true for any fixed caliper brake system. We will measure the runout of the rotor on the hub to determine the wear factor in the wheel bearing...if the hub were absolutely perfect, we would see .025mm runout on the car, the same value obtained in the shop. If a measurement is obtained in excess of .08mm (or ..0035"), I'll recommend that the bearing be replaced if we cannot improve runout via "indexing". (Indexing is matching the low spot of the rotor to the high spot of the hub. If there are thickness variations in the rotor (over time), this option is not feasible. Thickness variations must be addressed on the lathe.) SD ========================================= Steve D'Gerolamo - The Ultimate Garage 201-262-0412 / steved3@idt.net / http://www.ultimategarage.com
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#3. Re: ower Steering System Leaks - from Roger Baker
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Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 18:21:32 -0800 From: Roger Baker <rbaker@velodyne.com> Subject: Re: ower Steering System Leaks Are you _really_ sure the leak is at the metal crimp? I have seen power steering leaks many times, and often it's the factory hose/clamp/connection to reservoir. The factory crimp clamps suck, and after the hose hardens it doesn't seal. Try replacing them with a good seamless clamp that doesn't crimp the hose. Maybe even a constant tension one. Don't over torque it & break the reservoir either. The clamp R&R cured the leak on mine, and yes it did look like the crimps were leaking from a casual look. Be sure to degrease the entire area so you can tell if it does any good. Roger Baker Robert Jackowitz <RJackowitz@HARVPART.COM> wrote: > Have any of you experienced any problems with your power steering system? > For the second time in as many years, I have developed a major leak at a > particular fitting (where the rubber hose from the reservoir connects to the > metal fitting) and my system will no longer hold fluid. Luckily I'm still > under warranty. Any one else experience similar problems? Anyone know what > might cause these problems or cause the fitting to fail prematurely? > Thanks, > Rob > '97
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#4. Re: Whats up with this wheel bearing replacement fad? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 07:25:16 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Whats up with this wheel bearing replacement fad? on 10/31/00 19:41, E36M3 at e36m3@bmwmpower.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 18:47:07 EST > From: ClassiGuy3@aol.com > > I have a 95 M3 with 60k miles in NYC. I havent experienced any wheel bearing > failure. I noticed people wiht 96, 97's changing wheel bearings? whats that > about. Probably depends on usage. Not that NYC streets are especially kind to a car... > can it be becasue I have floating rotors in front? No. Neil 96 M3
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#5. RE: ower Steering System Leaks - from Robert Jackowitz
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 08:17:03 -0500 From: Robert Jackowitz <RJackowitz@HARVPART.COM> Subject: RE: ower Steering System Leaks The leak is coming from where the rubber hose from the reservoir meets the metal connector. BTW, its more than a leak. The entire contents of the reservoir was blown out through that connector at highway speed, dumping fluid all over the lower engine components. Rob -----Original Message----- From: Roger Baker [SMTP:rbaker@velodyne.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 9:22 PM To: E36M3 Cc: RJackowitz@HARVPART.COM Subject: Re: ower Steering System Leaks Are you _really_ sure the leak is at the metal crimp? I have seen power steering leaks many times, and often it's the factory hose/clamp/connection to reservoir. The factory crimp clamps suck, and after the hose hardens it doesn't seal. Try replacing them with a good seamless clamp that doesn't crimp the hose. Maybe even a constant tension one. Don't over torque it & break the reservoir either. The clamp R&R cured the leak on mine, and yes it did look like the crimps were leaking from a casual look. Be sure to degrease the entire area so you can tell if it does any good. Roger Baker Robert Jackowitz <RJackowitz@HARVPART.COM> wrote: > Have any of you experienced any problems with your power steering system? > For the second time in as many years, I have developed a major leak at a > particular fitting (where the rubber hose from the reservoir connects to the > metal fitting) and my system will no longer hold fluid. Luckily I'm still > under warranty. Any one else experience similar problems? Anyone know what > might cause these problems or cause the fitting to fail prematurely? > Thanks, > Rob > '97
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#6. Winner of Tri-Flo exhaust certificate - from Ed Tang
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 05:51:11 -0800 (PST) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: Winner of Tri-Flo exhaust certificate Kim wrote: >and the date was............. >klburgess >99///M3/2 Jacques birthday is 4/9/71, exactly 6 months before mine. Opposite polarity. If he were Jesus, I'd be Lucifer. Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer. http://experts.yahoo.com/
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Removing Water Spots - from Michael Bird
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 09:12:57 -0500 From: "Michael Bird" <MJBird@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Removing Water Spots Originally the only way I knew to remove water spots was to take the car to my body man and have him buff and polish the car. After a while, I figured that I too could do this, if I only had the proper equipment. So I bought a professional grade buffer (not the $19.95 autozone polisher) and pads and compounds. I use the rubbing compound to remove a very light (we hope!) layer of clearcoat, which is where the water spots have etched the finish. Then I use the polishing compound and polish the car. Then I wax it. It doesn't take as long to do with a machine as by hand, and apparently these compounds are designed to be used by machine, because they don't work when applied by hand. The polisher cost me about $140, the pads (different kinds for different compounds) were $20 each and the bottles of wonder-gook were $20 each... so it wasn't cheap, but ALL of my cars (even the truck) look like new. Again. Naturally, I don't do this too often, as I will eventually remove all of the clear, but once a year seems OK. I polish and wax more often, of course. FWIW - I do not subscribe to the Zymol propaganda, and believe that a decent wax (I use Meguire's) will work fine. Yeah, yeah, Zymol may have a slightly higher shine, but the incredible difficulty of application just isn't worth the trade-off, IMHO. Michael
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#8. save money quick! - from daanesh chanduwadia
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Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 14:13:41 GMT From: "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> Subject: save money quick! last S4 i was in had a detroit-style "ECON" button, which defeats A/C compressor operation. got UUC shortshifter? you should. daanesh >>in my audi S4 (sorry for using the A word) there's not even an AC button. the compressor is ALWAYS on. even when you're heating the car, the compressor is de-humidifying for you. for hot rodders, there's apparently a feature (how would i ever know, it's such a small difference) that turns off the compressor under full acceleration. (the only time you need that last 3hp from the engine) i suppose that means if you stayed on full throttle for 5 minutes in a row, your windows would fog. but barring that, i like the compressor always running. though... maybe it's why i get less then 20mpg? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#9. bmw parts warranty - from daanesh chanduwadia
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Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 14:16:58 GMT From: "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> Subject: bmw parts warranty to my knowledge, the BMW lifetime parts replacemtn warranty applies to: struts shocks water pump ????? you of course must have the replacement installed at a BMW dealer -- unlike autozone, who will let you exchange your worn out PF90s ;) i got an estimate at the local dealer for strut and shock replacement: $1200. daanesh >>i've paid to have LOTS of parts in my M3 replaced. (just about every >>single one ;-P and i never got more then a 1 year warrenty on any of them. from bmw that is. my koni shocks had a longer warrenty. if i'd chosen to replace my shocks with BMW ones, i'd have only had a 1 year warrenty (and paid more too, duh...)_______________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#10. Looking for E30 project car. - from F. Graziano
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Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 09:34:51 -0500 From: "F. Graziano" <fgraziano@monmouth.com> Subject: Looking for E30 project car. as the subject states im looking for an e30 project car, can be modified or stock. running or not, (if not running preferebly in New Jersey). M3 or 325 whatever. The cheaper the better. Any leads would be great. Thanks, Frank