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#1. Re:Are coil-overs legal in ESP class + travel - from Rob
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 12:52:24 -0700 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: Re:Are coil-overs legal in ESP class + travel Steve, thank you for responding to the C/O in SCCA question but I have to disagree with a couple of your comments. See below... >>Subject: Are coil-overs legal in ESP class for SCCA? I word of warning to anyone thinking about running C/O's .....You give up lots of suspension travel especially in the rear. **What are you talking about?? The H&R C/O's don't have any less travel than a silimar H&R Sport spring set-up as they don't lower the car anymore than 1.5". The front C/O set-up has MORE travel than a standard lowered car becasue of the C/O specifically designed strut. .....Also the rear springs are not Progressive, at least mine aren't.....Sooooo over any sharp dip, or ripple the car goes Kaaaabang! **Wow, you must have a real problem with your components because the true, made in Germany H&R (gold colored) coil-over set doesn't ever bottom out in the rear or make a "Kaaaabang" sound!. And when you hit a bump at speed such as a bridge transition at 75+MPH your head will hit the roof.....Not for the meak, or folks who thinks it's cool to lower their ride :-) **True the H&R C/oOs are not for the meak but I don't hit my head (I'm 6'2) on the roof over bumps. I only drop my H&R Race Springs in the rear when I go to the track.....550LB Springs that are approx 6" long is not a good street setup recipe...I tried but nada! **The rear springs that come with a true H&R C/O kit look identical to the H&R Sport springs from an M3 29910 kit. The only difference is that the rate is a higher. They are NOT 6" long springs like in the front. I leave my C/O H&R Race spring setup in all year up front though....It is nirvana..... **At least we agree on this :-) YMMV Steve Running a TC Kline H&R Race C/O kit with Double Adj Koni's......<< **A ha, maybe this is the problem! The REAL H&R kit uses Bilstein's, not Koni's! Maybe T.C. built you some serious track suspension with higher rates and less travel? Thanks, Rob
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#2. re: FW: incident at Thunderhill - from George M. Kofman
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 14:01:41 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: re: FW: incident at Thunderhill Donna; Two questions: was there a roll bar/cage in the car ? if not, was Ali using a harness or an OEM seatbelt arrangement ? TIA GMK '97 MMM/4 (personally flipped/rolled an '88 Integra LS at an AutoX in 1989. have seen E36M3 rollover aftermath at the track...) > -------------------- 1 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2000 21:36:38 -0700 > From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> > Subject: FW: incident at Thunderhill > > We've lost another of our precious E30 M3s. Fortunately, Ali is fine. I know > he's got friends on all these lists, though he's not a member, so he asked > me to forward the incident report. > > BTW, it's been thoroughly discussed on the E30M3 list today, so he doesn't > need to hear any more of what he should have done... > > Donna > ------- > 88 M3, "Guido," grieving for his brother
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#3. UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 15:04:04 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop The E36 M3 can isn't always easy to drive smoothly at lower speeds. The engagement point of the clutch pedal is at some indeterminate place in the middle of its travel, making seamless gearshifts more difficult to achieve. And unfortunately the clutch pedal isn't adjustable. A couple or more years ago an M3 owner down in Texas (sorry - forgotten his name) came up with an inexpensive clutch stop. What's a clutch stop you say? Well it was basically a small rubber door bumper attached to the end of a bolt. You screw the bolt into the existing threaded hole where the clutch pedal hits the firewall when fully depressed. So now it's the bumper which determines the bottom travel of the pedal. You adjust the bolt until the clutch engages just after it lifts off the stop, and lock that setting with a jam nut. The result is that you always know exactly where the clutch engages: right above the stop. Easy to dose the clutch engagement, and make those shifts as smooth as a cheerleader's - err, well, never mind. This wasn't a new idea (Ron Stygar has another nicely made design) but the Texas clutch stop only cost $10, or you could easily make it yourself. Only trouble was it was kind of thrown together from stuff you'd find lying around the garage. Enter UUC Motorwerks (see http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/). They came up with a more engineered version that's actually designed for the purpose, and made out of quality materials. I've been using the original UUC version since it became available, and it works just fine. But Ron Stygar (see http://www.unofficialbmw.com//bmw_ronstygar.html) has also shown that the stock clutch pedal has a design deficiency in its pivot bearing. This can cause the pedal to creak annoyingly in use, and also leads to excess lateral play. In some cases the latter can cause the clutch pedal to pass to the side of the clutch stop and get stuck. This hasn't happened to me, but has been reported by others. (Ron sells a reengineered clutch pedal for $65 which fixes the creak and the bearing slop both, and I highly recommend it. Installation is no fun though.) Enter UUC Motorwerks again. Their new Big Boy Clutch Stop is almost 2.5" in diameter. If your clutch pedal misses this baby, then you've got wayyyy bigger problems than a mere clutch stop can help with! The full-width elastomer bumper is contained in a shallow, plated metal cup. The threaded shaft sticks out the back, and two each stainless nuts and washers lock the whole thing in place. It's simple, well thought out, and effective. As usual, UUC furnishes clear and meaningful instructions. At just $20 each nobody's going to be paying for their villa on the French Riviera with the proceeds of clutch stop sales - a tool shed in New Jersey might be pushing it. So here's a notable bargain in the normally pricey world of BMW upgrades. Well worth it for that finishing touch. Neil 96 M3 Stygar clutch pedal + UUC short shift + UUC clutch stop = Shift heaven
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#4. Re: JTD RSM - IWITFG (installing while intoxicated, thus forgetting [a] gasket] - from George M. Kofman
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 14:13:31 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: Re: JTD RSM - IWITFG (installing while intoxicated, thus forgetting [a] gasket] Bill; I did mine stone sober (come on, it was only 1:00pm in the aft and I was clueless as to what I was doing), but did install the OEM gaskets. they were like 55 CENTS at the BMW Parts counter. Called in, they had stock. Whether or not you need them is your call. How long will you keep your vehicle ? Do you have slushy road conditions ? Midwest folk will know what I am talking about ! Road salt ? Like I said, depends on how long you want to keep your MMM. If you are trading it in within 2-3 years, I wouldn't care. YMMV GMK '97 MMM/4, wishing for a 3M TA3 front plate :-) PS I am obviously the slowest wrench on this list. I think I will start drinking in hopes it will improve my efficiency. >-------------------- 6 -------------------- >Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 11:09:13 -0500 >From: "Bill P" <casanova@tpgbbs.com> >Subject: Re: JTD RSM > >I installed mine in less then 30 min for both. Granted I don't have rear >speakers and the rear tires were already off with the car on a lift and a >nice ICE COLD 6-Pack Yeignling Lager (PA boys know what i'm talking about). >Reading the list though makes me wonder. I think I might have to drink >another 6-Pack. In haste I did not install any gaskets with the RSM's. Is >this going to be a problem? Will it increase wear? Noise? Should I re-use >the old ones (pretty twisted up but in one piece) or get new ones? What is >the part number for the new ones (I allready know the part number for the >lager)? > >Bill P
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Mods - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 12:13:02 PST From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mods There's at least a few: High Perf. Driver's School! ($250-$500) Short Shift Kit (UUC--apx. $300--or other) Sway Bars (RD Sport--apx $300--or other.) JC software (or other... right around $400) CAI (ECIS--apx. $225--or other) If you live in So. Cal., You're more than welcome to check out any of the above on my car (the driving schools might be hard to see though). The short shift kit was a no brainer for me. For the sway bars (and any suspension mods), I've made it a point to only change things based on track experience. The most prevalant thing I noticed on the track was body roll so I went with the RD Sport sway bars. Until I start spending a lot more time (as I'd like to) on the track, I have no reason to make any other changes yet (aside from people on the street asking, "When are you going to lower it?") I mainly got the JC software for the increased rev. limit (easier track days). The CAI? Well, performance increase or not (I think so though), I just plain love the sound! Jonathan >From: "ENF" > >$140.00 (for install and parts) was pretty inexpensive. My next question >is; >are there any other mods that are worth doing under the $400 level? > > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#6. re: [E36M3] Mods - from George M. Kofman
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 14:24:36 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: re: [E36M3] Mods Ed; > I did not do the install myself not having the means to do so, however my > BMW dealer installed for $37.00 > Half their labor rate. *Very* reasonable... how'd manage that deal ? I would love to get my local BMW store to be priced more reasonably... > As I stated previously I am slowly doing mods and was looking for the > easiest and least expensive to do first, focusing mostly on performance and > handling (if that is not a contridiction). > > $140.00 (for install and parts) was pretty inexpensive. My next question is; > are there any other mods that are worth doing under the $400 level? If you haven't done so already, The BEST performance and handling mod money can buy is a DRIVING SCHOOL. Not only will you learn how to handle your car and make it perform, but you will also learn how to brake it properly and thus gain even more speed. You can be amazed how a BONE STOCK 4 door M3 can keep up with much faster cars where drivers are not so well ... how shall I elegantly put it ... educated ? Having said that, if you haven't driven with ASC+T turned off, I say start with that. Especially in the rain and snow. Snow storms are ideal. Snow storms on a highway, with acculation, and ASC+T off is unnerving but way doable. And alot cheaper than $750 Skip Barber charges for a Car Control Clinic. This teaches smoothness. Smoothness yields speed. Speed kills. Does it mean we should not teach ? (humor ;-) GMK '97 MMM/4 > > Thanks again list list supplies some valuable information (as well as some > occasional humor). > > Ed Frank > enf@iglou.com > 97 M3/4
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Mods - from Daniel Smith
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 12:43:28 -0800 From: Daniel Smith <dls@daniel.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mods > $140.00 (for install and parts) was pretty inexpensive. My next question is; > are there any other mods that are worth doing under the $400 level? Either the European mirrors, or the MultiVex mirror inserts. The range of vision of the stock mirrors is too small. Daniel (X-brace, TC Kline rollbar, JC CAI & Software, AC Schnitzer Short Shifter, Euro rotors, Fischer SS brake lines, Active Autowerks exhaust, UUC Barbarian, Schroth harnesses, MultiVex mirror inserts - on the '97 M3) -- Daniel L. Smith - dls@daniel.org - Sonoma County, CA
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#8. VANOS replacement cost? - from daanesh chanduwadia
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Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 21:02:55 GMT From: "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> Subject: VANOS replacement cost? i was just presented a bill for $1950 for a VANOS replacement. (btw, the problem began when the shop replaced the primary tensioner with the one from the V8/V12, telling me the part had been superceded.) is this reasonable? i feel i have a case here, but if they refuse to budge i want to make sure they're not _really_ screwing me since i can swallow VANOS failure at 37K miles if itry real hard. thanks to all, daanesh 95 M3 getting back to health _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 13:34:30 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop > But Ron Stygar (see http://www.unofficialbmw.com//bmw_ronstygar.html) has > also shown that the stock clutch pedal has a design deficiency in its pivot > bearing. This can cause the pedal to creak annoyingly in use, and also leads > to excess lateral play. In some cases the latter can cause the clutch pedal > to pass to the side of the clutch stop and get stuck. This hasn't happened > to me, but has been reported by others. (Ron sells a reengineered clutch > pedal for $65 which fixes the creak and the bearing slop both, and I highly > recommend it. Installation is no fun though.) Actually, installation isn't too bad and doesn't involve removing nearly as many parts as it used to. Ron figured out a new way to swap pedals with minimal effort. Also, with the delrin bushings pressed into the clutch pedal, side to side play is minimal and you don't need such a fat clutch stop. Also, because of the reduced side to side play, clutch pickup is in the exact same point in pedal travel (clutch wear should move this point through time). After installing Ron's clutch pedal, I am able to leave red lights and stop signs with minimal rpms (like 800), no shutters, no hints of stalling, no herky-jerky, no nothing...just a very smooth start as if you're driving an auto for those times when you aren't screaming from red light to red light. It's the reduced side to side movement that increased pedal movement precision that makes this possible. So while a big fat clutch stop might offer reduced pedal travel, it doesn't solve all problems nor does it bring you the refinement that the clutch bushings bring you. So once you've installed the clutch bushings, you'll then realize that...well, a fat clutch stop is just plain silly when a stock diameter (not height) sized one will do perfectly fine. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one Place. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: JTD RSM - IWITFG (installing while intoxicated, thus forgetting [a] gasket] - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 13:37:47 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: JTD RSM - IWITFG (installing while intoxicated, thus forgetting [a] gasket] > PS I am obviously the slowest wrench on this list. I think I will start > drinking in hopes it will improve my efficiency. I was able to: - Remove my JL Audio stealthboxes - Remove my a/d/s/ 8 channel amp - Peel back the carpeting - Swap out the RSMs without a floor jack or ramps or jack stands (basically as if you go to a parking lot, see your car, slide underneath, and start working) - Reinstall the amp - Reinstall the stealthboxes all this in about 1.5 hours ;) The RSM part is definitely not the hard part in the installation procedure. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one Place. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#11. Re: [E36M3] UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop - from Mark Radelow
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Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 22:11:18 GMT From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop I just put the Big Boy into my car and it is easily one of the best low-cost mods I have ever made in ANY car. The biggest complaint I had (pretty much the only one) was the difficulty is having smooth starts and shifts. This thing fixes the problem completely and only costs $20 to boot. Next I will install the 320i mounts with Trannie Enforcers. Yet another low cost high return mod (from what everyone has told me!). Mark From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Reply-To: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Subject: [E36M3] UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 15:15:33 -0600 Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 15:04:04 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop The E36 M3 can isn't always easy to drive smoothly at lower speeds. The engagement point of the clutch pedal is at some indeterminate place in the middle of its travel, making seamless gearshifts more difficult to achieve. And unfortunately the clutch pedal isn't adjustable. A couple or more years ago an M3 owner down in Texas (sorry - forgotten his name) came up with an inexpensive clutch stop. What's a clutch stop you say? Well it was basically a small rubber door bumper attached to the end of a bolt. You screw the bolt into the existing threaded hole where the clutch pedal hits the firewall when fully depressed. So now it's the bumper which determines the bottom travel of the pedal. You adjust the bolt until the clutch engages just after it lifts off the stop, and lock that setting with a jam nut. The result is that you always know exactly where the clutch engages: right above the stop. Easy to dose the clutch engagement, and make those shifts as smooth as a cheerleader's - err, well, never mind. This wasn't a new idea (Ron Stygar has another nicely made design) but the Texas clutch stop only cost $10, or you could easily make it yourself. Only trouble was it was kind of thrown together from stuff you'd find lying around the garage. Enter UUC Motorwerks (see http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/). They came up with a more engineered version that's actually designed for the purpose, and made out of quality materials. I've been using the original UUC version since it became available, and it works just fine. But Ron Stygar (see http://www.unofficialbmw.com//bmw_ronstygar.html) has also shown that the stock clutch pedal has a design deficiency in its pivot bearing. This can cause the pedal to creak annoyingly in use, and also leads to excess lateral play. In some cases the latter can cause the clutch pedal to pass to the side of the clutch stop and get stuck. This hasn't happened to me, but has been reported by others. (Ron sells a reengineered clutch pedal for $65 which fixes the creak and the bearing slop both, and I highly recommend it. Installation is no fun though.) Enter UUC Motorwerks again. Their new Big Boy Clutch Stop is almost 2.5" in diameter. If your clutch pedal misses this baby, then you've got wayyyy bigger problems than a mere clutch stop can help with! The full-width elastomer bumper is contained in a shallow, plated metal cup. The threaded shaft sticks out the back, and two each stainless nuts and washers lock the whole thing in place. It's simple, well thought out, and effective. As usual, UUC furnishes clear and meaningful instructions. At just $20 each nobody's going to be paying for their villa on the French Riviera with the proceeds of clutch stop sales - a tool shed in New Jersey might be pushing it. So here's a notable bargain in the normally pricey world of BMW upgrades. Well worth it for that finishing touch. Neil 96 M3 Stygar clutch pedal + UUC short shift + UUC clutch stop = Shift heaven ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.