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#1. Re: Salad Tongs On-Car Replacement - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 07:47:19 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: Salad Tongs On-Car Replacement Re: >Working on the suspension while it's under load strikes me as analogous to >doing brain surgery on yourself. Agreed, but with all four wheels/tires on the lift's diamondplate "ramps", I don't think the tongs are under much load at all. There's plenty of vertical load, of course, but I suspect the tire's friction can easily handle the horizontal (side-side, as front-back is handled by the brakes and the trailing arm) load. If I do try it, I will use a strap to hold the wheel in place just in case ... -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#2. re: FW: incident at Thunderhill - from George M. Kofman
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 10:57:28 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: re: FW: incident at Thunderhill Hey Mark; > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 15:50:29 -0800 > From: MDadgar@handspring.com > > Two questions: was there a roll bar/cage in the car ? if not, > > was Ali using a harness or an OEM seatbelt arrangement ? > > There was no roll bar in the car. It had Recaro seats with very low custom > mounts and 4-point belts. (Ali has since sworn his next car will have at > least a roll bar) > > The car rolled 5-6 times and the roof only came down an inch or two. I was > EXTREMELY impressed at how well the car absorbed the damage to protect the > driver. The shell is completely destroyed but the passenger compartment is > mostly intact. I've seen an E36 M3/4 after a rollover at Road America this fall. Not a pretty picture. The roofline has appeared to come down more than an inch or two. And It did not roll 6 times either. Likewise, that car had no rollover protection. From what I've heard, E36 cars do not have very strong "A" pillars. I am not trying to start an age-long debate whether drivers ed cars need cages or if it's safe to use harnesses w./o roll-over protection. I am obviously concerned for MY safety, as I have a 4-point harness and have no roll-over protection. And at high speeds if you roll, you may roll more than once. > > - Mark > '95 M3 > '97 528i 5-spd > '88 M3, Hennarot > ---- GMK '97 MMM/4 (put a Skip Barber Formula Dodge backwards into the wall at the Kink at Road America. Yes, motor oil is fairly warm when if comes out of the engine and on top of you. No, did not lift).
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Salad Tongs On-Car Replacement - from Jim Powell
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Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 08:58:07 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Salad Tongs On-Car Replacement What did I miss? It's not unusual to lift and support one wheel while the car is on a lift that supports the car by the tires. Jim "Andrew E. Kalman" wrote: > Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 07:47:19 -0700 > From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> > Subject: Re: Salad Tongs On-Car Replacement > > Re: > > >Working on the suspension while it's under load strikes me as analogous to > >doing brain surgery on yourself. > > Agreed, but with all four wheels/tires on the lift's diamondplate > "ramps", I don't think the tongs are under much load at all. > > There's plenty of vertical load, of course, but I suspect the tire's > friction can easily handle the horizontal (side-side, as front-back > is handled by the brakes and the trailing arm) load. > > If I do try it, I will use a strap to hold the wheel in place just in case ... > -- > > ______________________________________ > Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#4. Fw: e30 M3 classification - from George M. Kofman
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 11:15:18 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: Fw: e30 M3 classification Hey Folks; Here is some feedback on my previous post. Looks like E30M3 is being shafted by SCCA. Any and alll help is greatly appreciated. GMK '97 MMM/4 have friends with E30 M3s who are getting the shaft. ---- Original Message ----- From: "Kofman, George M." <Geo@oncontact.com> To: <sdg2@execpc.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 11:02 AM Subject: FW: e30 M3 classification > > > -----Original Message----- > From: DuncanSCCA@aol.com [mailto:DuncanSCCA@aol.com] > Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 4:34 PM > To: Geo@oncontact.com > Subject: Re: e30 M3 classification > > > Mr. Kofman, > > The SEB and the SCAC (stock committee) did not approve this reclassification > > based on strong member opposition to the move. That opposition was based on > their belief that the car would be an overdog in the class based on its > specs > and potential. The SEB and the SCAC did not have any problem moving the car > if it simply would be competitive, but again the vast majority of members, > even those not in GS, believed this would become "the" car to have for the > class. > > The stock class restructure proposal has been tabled for 2001 and will be > reviewed and fine tuned for a probable implementation in 2002. During this > review, other classing possibilities will be considered for this car. We > have > received numerous suggestions that CS be considered. > > Howard Duncan > Rally/Solo Project Manager >
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#5. RE: [E36M3] M3 rollbar - from MDadgar@handspring.com
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 09:13:27 -0800 From: MDadgar@handspring.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] M3 rollbar Brent wrote: > Contemplating selling interior and buying race seats and 5 point > harnesses as well as rollbar. My question, is there any place I > can get a decent rollbar for the M3 that doesn't have a 1 year > (or whatever) waiting list? I'd wait the 4 months or so for a TC Kline bar. If you order now, you should probably have it before track season starts up again in the Fall. I've got a TC Kline bar in my E30 M3 and it's a work of art. The E36 bars are just as nice. My second choice would be either a custom bar or a Bimmerworld bar (www.bimmerworld.com). LAST choice is an Autopower. As for seats, I've got Recaro SPG's in my E30 and I absolutely *love* them. Sparco EVO's are almost as nice, but the Recaros have a deeper buckets and they keep me planted better. You can see the Recaros at www.tckline.com - Mark '95 M3 '97 528i 5-spd '88 M3, Hennarot ---- Mark Dadgar - Product Manager, Peripherals (650) 230-5037 voice - (650) 230-2100 fax mdadgar@handspring.com - Handspring, Inc. Check out Visor at www.handspring.com!
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#6. Re: PEAKE R5/fcx reset tool - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 12:16:55 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: PEAKE R5/fcx reset tool on 11/8/00 11:15, E36M3 at e36m3@bmwmpower.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 23:16:23 -0500 > From: "Cesar Omar" <cesar@cfl.rr.com> > > I recently bought a PEAKE R5/fcx reset tool and code reader. When I used > this device it show CODE: (53) Crankshaft Sensor & Code: (OC) Throttle > position sensor. Can some one help me to find out what is wrong with my car. > > Thanks! > César Omar > Orlando, Florida The crankshaft sensor tells the ECU the instantaneous crank angle, so that fuel injection and ignition for each cylinder can happen at the right moment in the 4 stroke combustion cycle. This sensor was subject to a recall affecting at least 96+ OBD II cars up to some later production date/year. (I don't know if 95 OBD I cars were involved - anyone confirm/deny?) Your dealer will install a new sensor and harness. Symptoms of failure include intermittent massive loss of power, engine shutting off, inability to restart. The throttle position sensor on the throttle body tells the ECU how far the throttle is open so that it can inject the right amount of fuel and time the ignition depending on what your right foot is asking the car to do. You don't say what year your M3 is, or whether it's under warranty. I'd take it to a dealer to have the CPS recall preformed ASAP. This problem could leave you stranded at some inopportune time, like driving across central Florida by yourself in the middle of the night :( The dealer can check your TPS too. Neil 96 M3 - Crank sensor failed last year
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 09:18:57 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop > > Actually, installation isn't too bad and doesn't involve removing nearly as > > many parts as it used to. Ron figured out a new way to swap pedals with > > minimal effort. > > I studied both Ron's and Stephen Lafredo's instructions, and in fact managed > to cut out some of their steps (there's no need to disconnect or remove the > clutch and brake limit switches). > > But any installation which requires you to stuff your inverted head and > shoulders down into the driver's footwell can hardly be termed "minimal > effort". I'm not an especially bulky guy - don't know how any of you big > fellas would manage it. I'll agree that it's not a walk in the park, but it's certainly not impossible. I'm not sure why you had to invert your head to install it. I was able to have my knees on the floor outside the car and my upper torso in the car. The only thing I didn't like was touching the knee bolster (or whatever that large object you have to unbolt it)...it's sticky...yuk! > That's why I went into some detail about the Stygar pedal mod. I had assumed > it too obvious to need stating that no clutch stop design can fix clutch > pedal bushing wear. Apparently nothing is too obvious. Yah...I didn't want to make the obvious assumption as some people would think that all they need to do is substitute a Barbie table top for a clutch stop and then all your woes would magically disappear. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one Place. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#8. Leaking Wiper Pump - from Jay Miller
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Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2000 09:19:58 PST From: "Jay Miller" <jjmiller6@hotmail.com> Subject: Leaking Wiper Pump Is there a seal that needs to be replaced between the Wiper fluid container and the pump? ANybody had there any wiper fluid container/pump/sensor problems? Jay '95 M3 _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#9. Re: VANOS replacement cost? - from Chris Casey
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 09:25:15 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Casey <ccasey1@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: VANOS replacement cost? At 37 K miles, shouldn't this be covered under warranty? > they're not _really_ screwing me since i can > swallow VANOS failure at 37K miles if itry real > hard. -Chris __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one Place. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 09:35:20 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop > A lot of us have the same side to side play problem with the after market > clutch pedal. Clutch pedal or clutch stop? > But why did no one complain about this with the original BMW > clutch stop? Because the original BMW clutch stop rests on the floor. If your clutch pedal slides to the left or right, it will hit the firewall...big deal. It won't got past the taller clutch stop and get hung up on it. > The after market CS is in between the OCS and the clutch pedal > rested position. If we press down the pedal, it misses and gets stuck on the > left side of the AMCS. Why will it land on top of the OCS? Sounds like it > should miss the OCS too. I just don't get it? Dude, too many friggen abbreviations! But I think I understand what you're getting at. Have you ever seen the factory clutch pedal bushings? They aren't round, don't support the whole clutch pedal (there will be some of the clutch pivot pin that doesn't even have any contact with anything), they are a weird tapered design and--most importantly--they are slotted! This slotting of the bushings and the tapered-ness of it allows the clutch pedal, under the tension of the clutch return spring and pressure when you press the clutch pedal down, to move to the side. You might ask why it always goes to the left. Well, if you think about it, if you draw a straight line that it perpendicular to where your left leg meets your hips, the clutch pedal line of travel is certainly to the left of it, no? Well, your natural movement is pushing outward and down and not straight down on the clutch pedal. That's why it's going that way. With the stock clutch bushings it's certainly possible to get the clutch pedal to go to the right of the raised clutch stop--it requires a little effort since it's not a natural motion. > BTW <So once you've installed the clutch bushings, you'll > then realize that...well, a fat clutch stop is just plain silly when a stock > diameter (not height) sized one will do perfectly fine.> > > I won't call it silly! Let say if you have up-grade your > brake system to Big Brake Kit for our car. Would you say I don't need those > silly R-4 or PF-90 pad? Difference people have difference budgets. What does size have to do with anything about budget? I am certainly not budget limited (to a reasonable amount...not going to spend $1000 for a rotor, ya know?). In the applications you listed, big brakes, high-performance brake pads, etc...you are choosing the correct tool for the application. The correct tool for the ultimate in clutch pedal operation is the round, full-contact, full-width, tight tolerance clutch bushings with *any* clutch stop. Whether you like seeing a big fat tropical drink umbrella or a stop appropriately sized once you fix the slop problem at the source, that's up to you. IMO, just using a large diameter clutch stop is a kludge....just like grinding away a shift carrier. > One thing > I know, I'm only out $10 plus 3 minutes to install it. Not $65 to $85 plus > ?? hours installing it. $10? Last I recall, it's $20. Now who's budget conscience? Also, it only took me about 1 - 1.5 hours to install the modified clutch pedal. My main point was that, IMHO, you still need to address the clutch pedal slop to really fix a big problem (squeaking too). Once you address this problem, you can use whatever clutch stop you want...even a pile of bricks. In the end, it's your car. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one Place. http://shopping.yahoo.com/