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#1. Re: Peake Research R5/fcx Fault Code Question - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 11:23:15 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Peake Research R5/fcx Fault Code Question on 11/11/00 10:55, E36M3 at e36m3@bmwmpower.com wrote: > Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 16:00:33 PST > From: "CHRIS L" <m3_838@hotmail.com> > > Hello all, > The "Check Engine" light came out today. And I use Peake Research > R5/fcx to check the Fault. The Fault Code is "E5". The Code Chart shows it's > "PreCat oxy sensor response time, Cyl#1-3". What does that mean?? > Which part of Oxygen Sensor should I replace? Anyone knows the part number? > Or where can I buy it? > Thanks for help!! > > Best regards, > Chris > 97M3/2D Your car has 4 oxygen sensors: one before and one after each of the two catalytic converters. Your fault code is saying that the oxygen sensor before the cat serving cylinders 1-2-3 is responding abnormally. Isn't your 97 still under emissions warranty? See your dealer. Neil 96 M3
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#2. Re: S50 Compresion Ratio, VANOS - from Aswtguy2c@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 11:23:22 EST From: Aswtguy2c@aol.com Subject: Re: S50 Compresion Ratio, VANOS I just saw something pretty interesting the other day at the shop. A co-worker of mines pulled off a M50TU engine from a '95 525i with over 100k miles. I pulled off the cylinder head to see how bad it was warped. When the head was removed, I looked on top of the piston and it was kinda black..others still had some silver color in it. This was an overheated engine by the way. Anyhow, I got my screwdriver and just for some reason, started to scrap off carbon on top of the piston. There was a good amount of carbon deposits on top of the cylinder and because of this, that can increase compression ratio and could be the answer to the "Ping vs knock vs. misfire vs whatever" issue is going on. Not sure what additives work out there on the shelves but most or some BMW dealers do a professional fuel injector, intake manifold, and fuel system cleaning treatment. I've mostly seen these done on the older cars but I've done it a few times. Dealer is supplied with BG cleaners and additives. Pretty good yet expensive stuff. For you '95 owners, I would change the fuel filter, clean the intake filter, inspect the spark plugs and replace if neccessary, and to change coolent if its been awhile. Jonathan Caldito
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#3. bilstein coilovers - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 12:20:58 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: bilstein coilovers Kit, Here is a good place to convert: http://srtorque.com/tcnm.html Here is another good place to convert: http://www.processassociates.com/process/convert/cf_tor.htm Here is another website others may find interesting: http://www.torquespecs.com/ Hope these helps. Regards, Rich
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#4. Re: S50 Compression Ratio, VANOS, Pinging - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 12:41:38 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Re: S50 Compression Ratio, VANOS, Pinging One more data point (although I did not respond to the survey but probably should have). I have a 95 M3 (7/95 build date with JC Chip, JC Intake and Euro HFM) and live in Cleveland, Ohio. I have never had any pinging or knocking what so ever during the past 18 months using 92 - 93 octane in my car. This includes time spent at the track under tougher conditions than that experienced on the street. Regards, Rich
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#5. Re: bilstein coilovers - from Bryan Watts
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 12:49:09 -0500 From: "Bryan Watts" <wattba02@wfu.edu> Subject: Re: bilstein coilovers Kit wrote: > Talked to Bilstein today and was quoted that the spring rates at 70 N/M > front and 75 N/M rear. Sounds pretty stiff! Anyone have them yet? Stiff? Nah, those aren't too bad for a street car. If you want stiff, come try my 220/240 N/M springs out on my race car. <g> -Bryan Watts
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#6. Re: Roundel E-46 M3 report.. - from Bryan Watts
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 12:53:09 -0500 From: "Bryan Watts" <wattba02@wfu.edu> Subject: Re: Roundel E-46 M3 report.. JSDONE@aol.com wrote: > If this new car is soooooo much more faster and all the other > good stuff by a degree of at least 5 to 6, I think it would be pure hell just > driving it around and playing a little.. I mean could this car be almost to > much of a high performance car that it's not for the non-race type of a guy??? You are absolutely CORRECT. Which brings me to suggest that are you non-race type guys need to be sure to sell me your M3's at well under cost once you get them so that you don't hurt yourself. I'll be doing you a favor! <g> Don't worry about me, I'll endure the "hell" of driving the car so you won't be forced to! -Bryan Watts 95 M3...non-race type car 92 325 KP/ITS...race type car
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Converting spring rates - from BobTunnell@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 13:16:59 EST From: BobTunnell@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Converting spring rates In a message dated 11/11/00 8:58:16 AM, Confused Kit writes: >I'm having trouble converting Newton/Meters to Pound/Inches. I seem to >get varying conversions on the internet, ranging from 1 to 7.704 lbs/in >to 1 to 8.8 lbs/in. >Can someone enlighten a confused psych major? >Talked to Bilstein today and was quoted that the spring rates at 70 N/M >front and 75 N/M rear. Sounds pretty stiff! Anyone have them yet? Euro springs are actually rated in Newtons per millimeter and, according to H&R, 1 Newton/mm = 5.6 pound/inch, so a "70" N/mm spring is the equivalent of a 390# spring and a "75" is a 420# spring. How stiff are they? Well, on an E36 M3 you'll be at nearly 400% the stock stiffness in front and 133% the stock stiffness in the rear. Road racers will tell you the rear is still too soft for the track and I'll tell you it's about right for an autocross car. Some will say it's tolerable for the street and some will say it'll knock your fillings out. Some say tom-ay-to and some say tom-ah-to... <g> Hope that helps, --BT
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#8. Weight on the track vs. enjoyment on the street....why not have both? - from Mark Zenz
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 10:56:26 -0800 (PST) From: Mark Zenz <mtzenz@excite.com> Subject: Weight on the track vs. enjoyment on the street....why not have both? If you are so worried about weight, why not build an amp rack and sub box that is removable? I take it out for autocrosses and at the track. I build one out of 1" MDF (needed since I have a 12" BA Sub run by a 1000 watt mono amp. I build the box, sealed it, installed the sub, tested it, then build an raised "floor" on the top and sides out of 1/8" hard board which was raised 3/4" so all the wires are under the "floor". One amp is mounted on the top and one on the side with all wires hidden. The power and ground distribution boxes are mounted behind the fold down seat along with the Alpine Digital Signal Processor. When I want to remove the box, I simply disconnect the speakers to the front and back (< 2 minutes) the power and ground from the distribution box, and the RCA comming from the head unit. Takes less than 15 minutes and removes the 50+ pounds of electrical compontents. I do not get too concerned over the wight of the MB Quarts and their crossovers. Just an idea.... Mark > Sure, with all else equal, weight slows cars down....But you said if you > threw out your stereo equipment, you'd gain a few horsepower....That's what > I'm questioning, not the obvious fact that your lb/hp ratio > changes....that's true by definition. My HK system weights alot. The numerous speakers, the amp, the wiring, the CDR. My comment about 1-2 HP was tongue-n-cheek. HOWEVER, if you unload the vehicle of 20# (or more) worth of ballast, you will improve weight to HP ratio and thus gain acceleration and speed. If a mechanical engineer on this digest wants to do some calculations on the effect of a 20# loss for the bone-stock M3 on acceleration and how it relates to HP "gain," I am all eyes. _______________________________________________________ Tired of slow Internet? Get @Home Broadband Internet http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
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#9. steering wheel bad vibes on 98 M3/4 - from Petro, John D (CORP)
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 16:32:38 -0500 From: "Petro, John D (CORP)" <John.Petro@Corporate.GE.com> Subject: steering wheel bad vibes on 98 M3/4 Hey Gang-- Been having a problem w/ my 98 M3/4 and I'm looking for some advice. Problem came up after I brought it in to have new potenza RE-730s (stock sizes) put on my M3 forged double spokes. Mechanically the car was great afterward, I even was surprised at how much smoother & quieter the car cruised at freeway speeds on the new shoes ( like glass--very "touring tire" ride quality) than the MXX3s. Problem appeared during that weekend's washing-- my wheel edges were severely buggered! 3 out of 4 had damage ranging from pits and dings at the very edge to scratches on the wheel face near the edge. Dealer was VERY stand up about it-- blamed a wornout/damaged "bead breaker" wheel on their Hunter machine (plausible?) and ordered me 3 new wheels. Wheels come in and they go on without a scratch (the ones replaced were the 2 rears and pass. front-- driver's front was fine). Get on the highway and I notice a vibe in the wheel at 65-70mph, like a side-to-side jiggle. I think "bad balancing" and bring it in-- they rebalance both fronts. No improvement. Wheel nut torque is right, and tire beads are seated 360 degrees around. Also notice there is now much more vibration in the wheel at all speeds and even at idle! Before, I'd get a touch of a vibe at idle, which would increase quite a bit at 900 and 2100 RPM (could tell by feel when I was passing thru those rev points). Now, it vibs like 2100 rpm all the time, with the added pleasure of the side to side jiggle at 60-80 mph. After a 1/2 hour drive with my hands on the "10 & 2" grips, I feel like I've been holding one of those stupid vibrating back massager pucks for a couple of mins. My guess is the new front wheel has a runout prob. or is warped at the hub interface, but could it be something else like hub bearing, control arm, steering box, etc. ? Car has 33K on it w/ no track time, but plenty of aggressive highway use (backroads, on-off ramps, etc.) Fact that the prob. came on w/ the new wheels implicates them obviously, but why would a warped wheel cause more vibs at idle, and slow speeds? I'd just like to have my third trip in on this be the last, if I can help it. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks much, John
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#10. Re: Roundel E-46 M3 report.. - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 22:10:06 GMT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Roundel E-46 M3 report.. After enough driver's schools, I can drive my E36 at it's limits. But this is done at the safe environment of a track, not the public streets. Once you've learned to explore the car's limits, you'll realize how far under it's limits you can drive on public roads and still have LOTS of fun. Anyone who regularly drives his/her E36 M3 at it's limits on the public roads should probably lose his/her license. When driven sanely, my E36 M3 runs as smoothly and comfortably as many other "normal" cars on the road, so the car really does have two personalities. I imagine that the new E46 M3 will also have dual personalities, so it should be just as easy and comfortable to drive on the public roads as an E36 M3. Of course, with 333hp under the hood, it'll be even tougher to keep restrained. -rb >Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 22:24:29 EST >From: JSDONE@aol.com >Subject: Roundel E-46 M3 report.. > >Just reviewed the report on the new M3... Must me some awesome kick butt >car, with a proposed non-inflated msrp of $46,000.00. I hace had my 98 M3 >for 2 years now and grow more impressed with it every day. It's actually >hard to go on a trip and not get a ticket. 'the car screams to be driven >fast. As all you nice M3 fans know, this car is so much fun and so easy to >drive fast and hardly any normal person comes close to taking it near to >it's limits, I have a question... If this new car is soooooo much more >faster and all the other good stuff by a degree of at least 5 to 6, I think >it would be pure hell just driving it around and playing a little.. I mean >could this car be almost to much of a high performance car that it's not >for the non-race type of a guy??? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Help w/brake bleeder kit, please? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 22:19:47 GMT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help w/brake bleeder kit, please? As the owner of an Eezibleeder, I don't recommend it to anyone because of the following reasons: 1) It only holds about 12oz of fluid, so you'll need to stop and fill it three or four times for a complete fluid flushing/replacement job. 2) The maximum recommended pressure for a brake system is 25lb, and 20lb is recommended. So, this means that you must first bleed air from your spare tire before you use the Eezibleeder, and you'll need to refill it with air when you're done. 3) The air valve that attaches to the tire's valve stem doesn't completely seal, so air pressure from the tire slowly bleeds away. 4) The hose that comes with it (to attach to the tire) is really a little too short to be useful, so you'll need to add a longer hose. 5) As soon as you get some brake fluid on the outside of the bottle and wipe it off, all of the lettering on the bottle (including the instructions) gets wiped away, too. 6) The Eezibleeder bottle doesn't stand up on it's own, so you'll need to find a way to prop/wedge it in the engine compartment while it's in use. Overall, it was definitely NOT worth the money. The Motive Products/Bavarian Autosport bleeder is an excellent unit. It's too bad that Jim Powell didn't apply for a patent! They ripped off his design and are now raking in the $$! -rb >Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 12:54:16 -0600 >From: Jim.Millet@intermec.com >Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help w/brake bleeder kit, please? (new member speaks > up from MA) > > > Anyway, I think it's time to replace the brake fluid and bleed my > > brakes. Does anyone have any recommendations for an inexpensive > (say, >50 bucks) bleeder kit?> > >Check out the Motive Products Power Bleeder: >http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.htm >It's an clone of Jim Powell's DIY bleeder. At $44.95 plus shipping that >should bring you in at your $50 target. >If you don't mind using your spare tire as an air pressure source and >filling up the fluid container a couple of times then take a look at the >Eezibleeder for around $29.95: >http://autoexpertproducts.webjump.com/ >Usual disclaimers apply. YMMV > >Jim Millet >1995 M3, Hellrot, Sharked and much more. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#12. Re: [E36M3] Turner Euro HFM/Airbox kit - from NickG
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 17:49:44 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Turner Euro HFM/Airbox kit > Turner is claiming 26-28 HP for this 899 dollar Euro HFM/Airbox/Chip kit. > > Does anyone have a dyno chart comparing stock vs this kit? > > Any feedback? The Euro Airbox is worthless. Either go with a cone filter or stay stock. > Also, does Dinan have two different CAIs? One to go with Euro HFM and one to go > with regular HFM, or do they use a 3.5 to 3 inch adapter to accommodate both? I believe the Dinan intake is 3.5", and they use a 3.5->3" rubber adapter to attach it to the stock HFM. If you need the adapter to connect the Euro HFM to the stock TB elbow, drop me an email off list. Nick
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#13. Concern about recently installed JC Intake - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 17:50:29 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Concern about recently installed JC Intake David, >>With autumn in PA, squirrels are everywhere gathering their stores for winter; squirrel roadkill abounds. As efficiently as the intake is sucking in the fall air, I'm concerned that it might suck squirrels into the motor<< I love the furry little critters as much as the next guy...but, David, lets face it, you have a bigger problem...I believe that Deer also abound in your environs?! See, normally, cars just hid the deers. But, in your case, unless you get an 'antelope intestion protector', you may wind up with an interesting looking hood ornament! _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3 <25000 mi Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift kit and Clutch Stop; Skaggs Pedals; X-brace; Sound by Kenwood Excelon, Polk, JL Audio
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#14. Re: [E36M3] Bad miss/stumble at idle?? - from NickG
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 17:50:50 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad miss/stumble at idle?? That stumble is a characteristic of the '95 M3. Sometimes running some injector cleaner helps (not the in tank stuff, but connected directly to the fuel rail). Nick > My '95 w/36k miles has a bad miss/stumble at idle. The car will idle > perfectly and then all of a sudden give a quick miss at varying intervals. > Could be every 2 seconds and then not for 15 seconds. Enginre is 100% stock > and just replaced the air and fuel filters. Any ideas? > > Rob
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#15. Re: [E36M3] Re: S50 Compresion Ratio, VANOS - from NickG
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Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 17:51:08 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: S50 Compresion Ratio, VANOS > <<<daanesh writes about the compression ratio of '95 M3s>>> > The factory spec for the S50 US version is 10:5:1.. Yeah, the '95 M3 has a 10.5:1 compression ratio. > of.....Josh mentioned that JC had trouble developing chips for the > Lightweights because of this, and more aggressive timing maps for some of > these motors actually lost horsepower....This is why JC has an alternate chip > available for Euro HFM M3s..... I had some pinging with both a regular JC chip and a Euro HFM JC chip. It seems as if a lot of 95's have this problem. I attribute it to the engine having some extra miles on it, which tends to build up carbon in the combustion chamber. This has the effect of raising the compression ratio slightly, and creating hot spots which promote preignition. > Now a question: is anybody running this "alternate" version chip with their > Euro Intake? I ran such a chip, but never dynoed it. Butt dyno said the car was faster with the pinging though. Nick