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#1. Dyno'ed my stock 98 ///M3 today... - from vernon@sprynet.com
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 17:52:02 -0500 From: vernon@sprynet.com Subject: Dyno'ed my stock 98 ///M3 today... I had a chance to run my 98 M3 on a dyno today and wanted to share the results and some observations. I wanted to get a baseline with my totally stock engine before I did any mods (I'm planning the usual intake/SW/exhaust this winter). The numbers were: Max power: 204.2 @ 6000 Max torque: 219.2 @ 4250 0-60: 5.96 seconds (required a shift to third - more on that below) 1/4 mile: 14.459 @ 99.517 I'm very happy with the horsepower numbers, but I'm disappointed in the 0-60 test. I had my track tires on from yesterday (too lazy to take them off last night) which are 235/40/17 AO32R's instead of my 245/40/17 street tires and the smaller diameter tires forced me to shift into third to get to 60 mph. We tried redlining second but it stopped at exactly 59 mph!! I'm guessing the little extra diameter of the 245/40/17's would have dropped the 5.96 second number down a few tenths by allowing me to just run to redline in second gear. Some other observations: - A standing start on a dyno is wierd. You have no sensation of movement, so it is very difficult to gauge a launch like it is on the street or autox start. - Just for the hell of it, we left the traction control on once and it wasn't happy at all. I'm guessing that because the front wheels were stopped and the rears were moving, the ASC was going nuts. The ABS light came on and stayed on the entire time. It wasn't happy at all either. - Heat and consecutive runs didn't seem to effect the engine's output at all, which speaks to the durability and ruggedness of the M3 I6. Several consecutive runs yielded the exact same numbers, regardless of if the engine was just warm or fully heated. This backs up my track experience that no matter how long a session is or what the outside temperature is, the engine feels the same. The guys with the dyno said many engines they test, especially turbos and supercharged ones, but also many pony cars, suffer quite a bit because of heat. I love that ///M3 engine. - The horsepower and torque curves on the engine are incredibly flat which also confirms my track observations that this engine has usable power everywhere. The dyno guys said it was one of the flattest torque and power curves from 3000-6500 that they've ever seen. - A friend of mine had his Supra Turbo there (Kent Rafferty, ProSolo and Solo II SM National Champ) and he got 353 rear-wheel HP, but was having wheelspin problems on the acceleration tests (too much power we think). That explains why his car walks away from my poor little normally aspirated M3 on the straights at Nelson Ledges! Sorry for the long message, but I wanted to share the experience and observations with the list. I plan on running the car again later this winter after some mods, hopefully I'll get 20-25 more hp. Thanks for the bandwidth! Vern Anderson 98 M3/2
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#2. 97 components to a 95 for suspension - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 15:16:52 -0800 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@pluris.com> Subject: 97 components to a 95 for suspension All, How can I make 97 M3 components (struts, shocks, springs, sway bars and camber plates) fit a 95 M3? Is this pretty hopeless or does it only involve switching a few components? I am thinking of buying a Dinan Stage III suspension used. Thanks Bora
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#3. Fuel Filter - from J. Eric Trela
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 18:35:17 -0500 From: "J. Eric Trela" <trela@cyberlogtech.com> Subject: Fuel Filter -----Original Message----- From: J. Eric Trela [mailto:trela@cyberlogtech.com] Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 6:24 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36M3 #697 All, I was wondering where the fuel filter is in my '95 M3. I need to replace it and can't seem to locate it. Thanks J. Eric Trela
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#4. Redline vs. Mobil 1 - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 20:25:42 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Redline vs. Mobil 1 To all, Saw Mobil 1 ATF at my local auto store yesterday. My question is, does anyone know how Redline D4ATF compares to Mobil 1 ATF? I'm thinking of doing a tranny oil change soon. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 mov'in to ESP in '01
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#5. HP to Rotating Weight Question?? - from Thomas E. Tice
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 09:50:36 -0500 From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> Subject: HP to Rotating Weight Question?? Hi Gang, I have a similarly related question. Are there any rules of thumb for the effects of rotating mass (i.e. the recently discussed wheel weights). A friend of mine suggested that I should be able to find some sort of spreadsheets/calculators available on the web that could help answer this question but I have not been able to find anything relevant. Do any of you have links for this sort of calculation. Ideally I would like to know what effect on acceleration would result from heavier wheels (1 lbs, 3 lbs, 5 lbs delta etc) given the typical weight/HP/torque of a stock M3. If my wheels were 5 lbs heavier each, that would be like having a flywheel that was 20 lbs heavier? That sounds like a big deal? Even worse it hurts braking performance as well - at least with the flywheel all you have to do is push in the clutch to take that out of the equation. I aquired a set of wheels that I intended to use for the track but they are quite a bit heavier than the best in class 17x8s (approx 17 lbs). Before I chunk down serious $$$ on more wheels, I'd like to have a more accurate idea of what I would be giving up with the heavier ones. TIA, Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6 Paul Agustin wrote: > Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 10:42:51 -0600 > From: Paul Agustin <agustin@iaxs.net> > Subject: Re: HP to Weight > > Jim is right, or really close. It's actually 7.5lbs equals one HP. So > those 20lbs that George was talking about is equal to 2.67 HP, not much > in the real world. On a track that can be just enough of an edge though > to get you in front and stay there. Making your car 300+lbs lighter now > that would be awesome, it would get you about 40HP more in the HPcolumn > theoretically. OK I'm done babbling and ya'll can flame away ifn you > want. > > Paul Agustin > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#6. [E36M3]Re:Compression Ratios, Jonathan C. - from Carlos Lopez
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 19:33:35 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <clopez95m3@yahoo.com> Subject: [E36M3]Re:Compression Ratios, Jonathan C. >Also does anyone remember in days about going on a good hard run >to "blow the carbon out"....I wonder if that really works??!!? An Italian Tune-up! yup they work. I have to do this to my E30 M3 once a week or else it gets all carboned up because of my short daily commute. >Evidence is anecdotal...pinging in the Lighweight >motors...extremely fast early build cars All the LTW's have either 9/95 or 10/95 prod. date on the door jamb. That's about as late as they come wouldn't you say? :-) Carlos Motor City Chapter __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Get organized for the holidays! http://calendar.yahoo.com/
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Fuel Filter - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 19:39:34 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fuel Filter It's right next to the tranny on the driver's side like right below the driver's seat. Of course, it's behind a cover that is removed by cutting the tie-wrap and two or three fasteners (you'll need a 10mm socket for it). You can't miss it--it's bigger than a paper towel tube....seriously! HTH, Chester > All, > > I was wondering where the fuel filter is in my '95 M3. I need to replace it > and can't seem to locate it. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Get organized for the holidays! http://calendar.yahoo.com/
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#8. Re: Which pre-cat oxygen sensor is for cylinder #1,2,3? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 03:41:43 GMT From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Which pre-cat oxygen sensor is for cylinder #1,2,3? It would probably be attached to the pipe which leads to the exhaust manifold for cylinders #1,2,3. You should have two exhaust manifolds - one for cylinders #1,2,3 and one for cylinders #4,5,6. Cylinder 1 is the front cylinder on the engine. -rb '95 M3 (with one pre-cat sensor) >Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 10:49:46 PST >From: "CHRIS L" <m3_838@hotmail.com> >Subject: Which pre-cat oxygen sensor is for cylinder #1,2,3? > >Hello all, > I tried to replace the cylinder #1,2,3 pre-cat oxygen sensor, but >there are 2 Pre-cat O2 sensors, which one is for cylinder #1,2,3?? Thanks >for help!! > >Chris >97M3/2D _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Dyno'ed my stock 98 ///M3 today... - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 19:45:26 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dyno'ed my stock 98 ///M3 today... Sounds like you had a good time ;) On my '99 M3, with JimC software (which was installed for about a year) and with the whole intake removed (Don Fields--I think that was his name--had a hunch that it would yield the most power for what I had going at the time) including the HFM bypassed, my car put down ~225 at the wheels. About your required shift to third in order to reach 60, I believe that it's necessary for any stock car since the rev limiter kicks in to prevent you from hitting 60 in second. Having the rev limiter bumped up to 7200 cures that ;) Chester --- vernon@sprynet.com wrote: > Max power: 204.2 @ 6000 > Max torque: 219.2 @ 4250 > 0-60: 5.96 seconds (required a shift to third - more on that below) > 1/4 mile: 14.459 @ 99.517 > > I'm very happy with the horsepower numbers, but I'm disappointed in the 0-60 > test. I had my track tires on from yesterday (too lazy to take them off last > night) which are 235/40/17 AO32R's instead of my 245/40/17 street tires and > the smaller diameter tires forced me to shift into third to get to 60 mph. > We tried redlining second but it stopped at exactly 59 mph!! I'm guessing > the little extra diameter of the 245/40/17's would have dropped the 5.96 > second number down a few tenths by allowing me to just run to redline in > second gear. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Get organized for the holidays! http://calendar.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Fuel Filter - from Rich Gay
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 22:17:02 -0600 From: "Rich Gay" <rich_gay@linbeck.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fuel Filter on 11/12/00 5:55 PM, J. Eric Trela at trela@cyberlogtech.com wrote: > I was wondering where the fuel filter is in my '95 M3. I need to replace it > and can't seem to locate it. Pretty much directly under the driver's seat. There is a plastic cover with two fasteners, remove it, and you'll see the fuel filter. There is a bracket holding it in, and I've not figured out how to remove it -- the bracket has a hydraulic line (I think) on one side, and I wasn't comfortable forcing everything apart. As usual, the Bentley manual's writeup on the fuel filter is worthless and provides no guidance. Any suggestions? - Rich
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#11. BMW rentals - from Sean Ganess
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Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 23:57:59 -0500 From: Sean Ganess <Sean.Ganess@lostcluster.net> Subject: BMW rentals Hi all, Anyone know of a place in the NY/NJ area that rents BMWs? A ///M car would be ideal but any BMW will do. Wouldn't mind taking an X5 either... :)
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#12. Re: [E36M3] Fuel Filter - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 02:01:43 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fuel Filter There are two different fuel filters (and two different locations) used on the '95 M3 depending on whether you have an "early" or "late" model. I think the dividing line is about 9/94. If you have an 8/94 or earlier production M3, then you have a 1994 model year 3 series fuel filter. 9/94 and later, you have the 1995 model year fuel filter. The early fuel filter is somewhat short and fat. It is located on the driver's side, near the engine. I helped a friend replace it once. It was a struggle. It is nearly impossible to get to. It took both of us working 2 hours to get it off and on. I wish you luck if you have an early model '95. The fuel filter on later '95 M3's is located under the driver's floor board. It is long and slender. There is a plastic cover over it. Remove the 1 (or 2) screws for the cover. The fuel filter is very easy to replace. I can almost do it in 5 minutes without lifting the car. You can trace the fuel lines from the gas tank. The gas lines run along the outside on the driver's side. Good luck. Be sure to get the right fuel filter. Even my local dealer didn't know the early model '95 M3 used a different fuel filter. Be sure to tell the dealer you production date and make sure he realizes there was a different fuel filter used. It is a problem when you get the old filter off and discover the new one won't fit! Ask me how I know. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 - easy to change fuel filter - Yeah!! Dallas, Texas BMW CCA #131505
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#13. Re: [E36M3] 97 components to a 95 for suspension - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 02:44:26 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] 97 components to a 95 for suspension Bora, I recently helped a friend put H&R springs made for a '96+ M3 on his '95 M3 so I think I know what the difference in springs is. '96+ M3's use a very slightly different spring up front. The top of the spring is about 1/4" smaller in diameter. Only the top 2 coils are smaller in diameter. Otherwise, the springs are identical. So, if you were JUST replacing the springs like we did on my friend's M3, the springs are too small and won't fit the upper spring cap. The proper way to fit '96+ springs is to buy a '96+ upper spring cap and matching rubber cushion. Or, we discovered that if you take the rubber cushion off the '95 upper spring cap, the '96+ spring will fit on. This is not the proper method because you now have the steel spring rubbing on the steel spring cap. I expected it to make horrible squeaking noises but my friend reports nothing. But in YOUR case, you have the whole shooting match. What I know. I know the rear sway bar will fit perfectly. I have a stock '96+ sway bar on my '95. I know the shocks and struts will fit perfectly. Bilstein does not make different shocks or struts for the '95 vs. '96+ M3's. The camber plates will bolt right on but will affect caster and camber. More on this later. I don't know if you will get upper spring caps with your used Dinan kit. If not, you probably should buy new upper spring caps and rubber cushions. I suspect they will cost $30-50. Or, you do what my friend did and forgo the rubber cushions. The one item I don't know about is the front sway bar. I think the '96+ front sway bar attaches differently and won't fit on a '95 M3. Somebody else will have to answer this one. But I do know that Dinan has a different philosophy on sway bars. Everybody else enlarges both the front and rear sway bars. Dinan actually makes the front sway bar SMALLER and make the rear bar larger than stock. Yep! I'm pretty sure of this. This is not as bad as it sounds. Smaller front/larger rear will greatly reduce understeer. This is the desired result so Dinan may have the best combination? However, the smaller front bar will increase body roll. I dislike body roll. I don't know if body roll is bad per se but I just don't like the way it feels. So, you could keep you stock '95 sway bar and use everything else in the kit. Your stock sway bar is larger. Another idea is to use urethane sway bar bushings instead of the stock rubber bushings. I just purchased a set from BMP for my M3. I think they make a nice improvement. I'm happy. They are very cheap - only $40. I'd give them a try before buying a new sway bar. OK, your Dinan camber plates. I'm sure they will bolt right on. However, based on postings by other list members (Bob Tunnell and Ron Katona), I think the '97 camber plates will give you 0.5 degrees LESS camber if you install them on the correct sides. If you install them on the incorrect sides, you will get 0.5 degrees MORE camber. Caster should stay the same. This might be the best deal. Dinan camber plates have what camber? - negative 2.5 degrees? That is plenty for street usage. You could install the camber plates on the correct sides and reduce it to neg 2.0 degrees. Or go crazy and flip sides and get neg 3.0 degrees camber. I'd say everything but the front sway bar should fit fine. If you get a good deal on the Dinan kit, go for it! Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 - with Dinan springs which I am not real impressed with but that is another posting