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#1. Re: [E36M3] Replacing dust boots on calipers - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 15:15:59 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing dust boots on calipers Well, you've already done this a few times and you know how difficult it can be to get everything to fall into place...and that's with removing the piston! I would think that it would be more difficult to do it without removing the piston... FWIW, Chester > Question for the group; > > Has anyone here tried to replace the caliper dust boots without having to > take > the piston completely out of the caliper as described in the tech procedure > that > appears on Suzy's www.bmwmpower.com website? > > Is there a way to sneak the dust boot over the piston and make sure the bead > for > the groove in the cylinder wall is correctly seated without removing the > piston? > > Does anyone put the rebuilding of their brake calipers on their yearly > maintenance schedule for your car if you track it at least 10 or more times > per > year? Or, do you examine the boots routinely and only if they are brittle or > showing surface cracks replace them? > > I am curious because I am getting differing stories on the procedure for > this. I > have done 3 of these and taught one and we always take the piston completely > out, replace the seal, and slip the bead for the cylinder portion of the > caliper > into the groove in the cylinder wall before pushing the piston back in, and > then > of course, bleeding the system. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Get organized for the holidays! http://calendar.yahoo.com/
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#2. High prices in Beverly Hills? was ... Power steering leak and ne - from Mount, Mike
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 15:13:49 -0800 From: "Mount, Mike" <JMMn@pge.com> Subject: High prices in Beverly Hills? was ... Power steering leak and ne w tires High prices in Beverly Hills? Welllllll, okay, I know a tractor mechanic in Santa Maria will do it for $50, but it's cash or carry. Floyd said he had some old hydraulic hose off an irrigation sprayer that he could custom fit. Only cost ya a 12-pack of Lucky Lager. Lemme know if ya are interested. Mike da kar is yella, and not just from the residue from ag spraying 'neither! an' I'ma heading to laguna seca too, jes' got sum new tars on the bimmer! Woo Hoo! -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bassett [mailto:jbassett@mayannetworks.com] Sent: Thursday, November 16, 2000 1:16 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Power steering leak and new tires Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 12:51:51 -0800 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Power steering leak and new tires > I just dropped off my car at Beverly Hills BMW and they quoted me $230 for > the 2 ps hoses and $300 for the labor. My question is... Is this a > reasonable price for this job? I'm thinking it's a little high > but I'm going > to Laguna Seca Friday so I need this done asap. Let's see a show of hands: who thinks a BMW dealer in *Beverly Hills* would have a high price on service? <bfg> Just teasing, Bobby (I'll be at Laguna, too, so I don't wanna get you too mad :-)) Are these the two hoses coming from the bottom of the fluid resevoir? I'll be getting mine replaced next week, and my non-dealer mechanic estimates it'll be about a 1-2 hour job (and although he's a very good mechanic, this is a WAG since he hasn't done this on an E36 yet). I guess it depends on what the shop rate is and what the "book time" is for the job. My own WAG is that it may be a little high. If you know of a good independent mechanic who can fit you in before Laguna, that might be less-expensive. My 2 cents, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Replacing dust boots on calipers - from Jim Powell
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 15:22:57 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing dust boots on calipers Did you ever change condoms without-- Oh, never mind. :) J'A'P Marc.S.Edwards@QuestDiagnostics.com wrote: > Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 13:07:57 -0800 > From: Marc.S.Edwards@QuestDiagnostics.com > Subject: Replacing dust boots on calipers > > Question for the group; > > Has anyone here tried to replace the caliper dust boots without having to take > the piston completely out of the caliper as described in the tech procedure that > appears on Suzy's www.bmwmpower.com website? > > Is there a way to sneak the dust boot over the piston and make sure the bead for > the groove in the cylinder wall is correctly seated without removing the piston? > > Does anyone put the rebuilding of their brake calipers on their yearly > maintenance schedule for your car if you track it at least 10 or more times per > year? Or, do you examine the boots routinely and only if they are brittle or > showing surface cracks replace them? > > I am curious because I am getting differing stories on the procedure for this. I > have done 3 of these and taught one and we always take the piston completely > out, replace the seal, and slip the bead for the cylinder portion of the caliper > into the groove in the cylinder wall before pushing the piston back in, and then > of course, bleeding the system. > > Thanks for your feedback, > > Marc Edwards > 1995 M3 LTW > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Replacing dust boots on calipers - from Sean Hester
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 15:24:52 PST From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing dust boots on calipers >Has anyone here tried to replace the caliper dust boots without having to >take >the piston completely out of the caliper as described in the tech procedure >that >appears on Suzy's www.bmwmpower.com website? > >Is there a way to sneak the dust boot over the piston and make sure the >bead for >the groove in the cylinder wall is correctly seated without removing the >piston? no. sorry. ;-( _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
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#5. Re: Power steering leak and new tires - from Roger Baker
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 15:25:14 -0800 From: Roger Baker <rbaker@velodyne.com> Subject: Re: Power steering leak and new tires Have you tried just replacing the factory clamps??? The E36's all seem to leak like crazy from these hoses until you replace the factory non-adjustable clamps with some real clamps. It's enough of a problem I've heard of some dealers doing the same thing. Both the E36's I've had have leaked here until I replaced the clamps. Even the new hoses will leak after a while if your dealer's service dept. uses the stock type clamps. Roger Baker "Robert Chay" <rchay@sitesmith.com> wrote: > > I just dropped off my car at Beverly Hills BMW and they quoted me $230 for > the 2 ps hoses and $300 for the labor. My question is... Is this a > reasonable price for this job? I'm thinking it's a little high but I'm going
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#6. Rear CV Boot Replacement and power mirror? - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 15:26:46 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Rear CV Boot Replacement and power mirror? Hi gang, It looks like I need to replace one of the outer CV Boots. The joint itself still seems okay (not making noise or anything). The boot got pinched during a control arm R&R and now leaks a little. It looks like it's not possible to just unbolt the half shaft. Has anyone tried to replace their outer boot? Can it be done by simply removing the inner joint sliding the outer boot off the shaft? Any tips? Also, My driver's side mirror stopped working properly. It goes side to side but when the "up" direction is selected it doesn't go up - it moves to the side. Very annoying since my wife needs a different height setting. I'm thinking that there is a loose wire since this started after someone attempted to push the car by the mirror and, of course, it popped off. I looked at the wires on the mirror switch and they look okay. Is there any good way to look at the wiring in the mirror itself? Is it as simple as popping off the glass and removing some screws or something? TIA, Matt '95 M3 Turbo. 350HP and soon to have a bad CV joint if I don't get this boot fixed :-(. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Get organized for the holidays! http://calendar.yahoo.com/
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Replacing dust boots on calipers - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 16:07:18 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing dust boots on calipers Re: >I am curious because I am getting differing stories on the procedure >for this. I >have done 3 of these and taught one and we always take the piston completely >out, replace the seal, and slip the bead for the cylinder portion of >the caliper >into the groove in the cylinder wall before pushing the piston back >in, and then >of course, bleeding the system. That's how I always do it -- just did all four two weeks ago. I believe this is the third overhaul on mine since new (Dec. '95). I've never experienced any problems with putting the pistons back in their bores (I clean and polish the pistons at every overhaul), and so it's really not much extra effort. I hope you're not trying to replace the boots on-car -- I wouldn't even try that. BTW, I push the dust boots almost all the way to the bottom of the piston (they are "overstretched" since the inner diameter has to conform to the piston o.d., not the place where it's held on the piston, which is substantially smaller) during installation. I believe the main reason the dust boots fail (for cars that get tracked) is simply the heat involved and the fact that they stretch substantially as the pads wear. You may have noticed how they deform in a not-very-elegant manner as they are stretched to the limit. The folds in the bellows no longer work right once the piston is a ways out of its bore - they sort of "pop" in a weird way. So, what I did was take a complete set of almost-worn-to-the-metal pads and removed the pad material completely to end up with backing plates that are effectively "spacers". Now, what I plan to do is, as the pads wear, I will insert one spacer between the piston and the inner pad, and then later, one spacer between the caliper and the outer pad, or even between the inner pad and the spacer that's already on the inside. What this effectively does is limit the amount of piston extension, which stretches the caliper seals and exposes them to more heat. This keeps the amount of fluid in the caliper at a minimum, moves the major heat source (the inner pad) further and further away from the piston and dust boot, and keeps the dust boots from stretching more than one backing plate thickness from fully retracted. It also keeps the unsprung weight of the car relatively constant as the pads wear. Of course the next effect with 3.6kg front calipers is essentially negligible. Note that this will not work with fixed (e.g. Porsche) calipers, but it will work with floating calipers. The only real problem is whether the backing plates are truly flat -- if not, there will be slop in the braking system. I surface-ground all of them to ensure the spacers were truly parallel (see below). Also, this doesn't work if your pads have clips on them -- you can only put the spacers against the outside pad, which limits dust boot stretching, but doesn't help with the heat issue. To remove the pad material from existing pads, I used a chisel to punch out as much leftover pad material as possible, then bead-blasted the rest away (it came off pretty easily, PF90s). You will most likely be left with some rivets or rivet-like fasteners that you have to remove -- you can grind them away, etc. Then I painted them with high-temp black paint. The only problem is, I misplaced one of the rear spacers in my haste to get to Thunderhill ... :-o ... -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Ordered UUC sways todays - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 19:28:54 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ordered UUC sways todays In a message dated 11/16/00 6:13:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, akyol@pluris.com writes: << He said that they will have the rear reinforcement bracket in a few weeks. I will put these on the car when they are available. >> Please explain what this is for? You have my attention, since I'll be installing Eibach sways soon. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 mov'in to ESP in '01
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#9. delay in e46 M3 production - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 19:40:19 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: delay in e46 M3 production To All: Came back from my dealer today, and he said production problems will delay the new M3 from hitting our shores until March! Man, this could seriously jeopardize some people's autox season! Just his word, not sure if it's true??? Some of you may want to check on this, if you haven't already. For me, I just want to see a real one ;-( Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 mov'in to ESP in '01
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Ordered UUC sways todays - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 16:41:33 -0800 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@pluris.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ordered UUC sways todays There apparently has been a set of cars in which the rear sway bar brackets broke off the car requiring a rear subframe change. This reinforcement bracket is for preventing this. Some people have had success with custom cutting and welding a reinforcement piece onto the factory brackets. Does anyone have a picture of these? Bora At 04:28 PM 11/16/2000, Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 11/16/00 6:13:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, >akyol@pluris.com writes: > ><< He said that they will have the rear reinforcement bracket in a few weeks. > I will put these on the car when they > are available. >> > >Please explain what this is for? You have my attention, since I'll be >installing Eibach sways soon. > >Bob Gill >97 ///M3 coupe >Philly Region SCCA >AS Champion 1997 & 2000 >mov'in to ESP in '01 Bora Akyol, Pluris, akyol@pluris.com
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Winter tires - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 00:48:24 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Winter tires I've used these tires (Dunlop SP5000) on my E34 525iT for one year now, and have driven through the Washington DC area snow, with no problems at all. They're also great dry and wet tires for my E34. Of course, since I learned to drive in snow country (Western NY), I can drive through winter weather with just about anything. I drove my E30 318i year-round on Yokohama A509s (not all-season rated) in the Washington DC area. Since I use a 60-series tire (225/60WR15), they have a much taller sidewall than an E36 M3 would need, and they have a much softer ride than my M3 has, so I can't vouch for the closest size to fit an M3 (235/45WR17). Also, my tires have a symmetrical tread pattern, whereas the lower profile tire has an asymmetrical tread pattern. My $0.02... -rb >Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 09:37:30 -0500 >From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Winter tires > >Might I suggest another alternative. If you would like to maintain a bit >more performance and still be able to get around in the snow, I would >suggest the Dunlop SP5000 high perf. all season tire. I live in Greensboro >NC and we admittedly get less snow than DC but I think these are a good >compromise for any condition that a BMW (especially M3) should be subjected >to. I put SP5000s on my wife's 525 (with limited slip) and have been able >to negotiate hills that I have seen 4WD SUVs not successfully climb in the >snow. I was very impressed with these tires in the snow and icy >conditions. As a bonus, they have a reasonably stiff sidewall and are >excellent in the rain. The are about $95 - $100 and available in both of >the sizes that you mention below. > >They aren't available in a 235/40/17 or I would strongly consider them for >year round street tires on my M3. > >I would caution that my snow experience with these tires has been limited >to one season in which the tires had full tread. I can't vouch for their >performance with reduced tread depths. _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
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#12. RE: [E36M3] Power steering leak and new tires - from Aswtguy2c@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 19:58:00 EST From: Aswtguy2c@aol.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Power steering leak and new tires The common parts, and the only ones, that fail on the power steering system are the power steering intake manifold hose (hose that leads to the resivoir to the pump) and the return line (the tubular thingie thats bolted to the rack). I think the cause is just bad materials (DEFECTIVE) where rubber meets metal. BMW has not redesigned this system. They go bad on E36s, E39s, E38s, and i'm sure a whole lot of other BMWs. Warranty Labor pays about 5 FRU (Flat Rate Units) or about 30min.. maybe less. It takes me less than an hour to do both hoses, plus adding power steering fluid (ATF, CHF 11S or 7.1) and bleeding the system. Labor rates will depend on what you came into the dealer for. If you had a complaint of noisy steering or steering is hard, diagnoisis time will be included which can be 30min or an hour. I wouldn't go over 90mins though. But yeah, $300 for labor is too much. Ummmm, maybe I should work for Beverly Hills BMW when I get back to CA =D Jim B., whats WAG? thanks. Jonathan Caldito *Done about half a dozen power steering hoses. Gotta love them PS intake manifold hoses though!*