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#1. bought 540is selling m3 parts.. - from ClassiGuy3@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 01:27:37 EST From: ClassiGuy3@aol.com Subject: bought 540is selling m3 parts.. hr and bilsteins low mileage VERY low, uucsway bars, with billet alluminum rear strut tower mounts. 900$ obo. eibach springs pro set. 125$, bbs rc's 18 inch poilished with michelin pilots 235 35 18's, about 6 k miles on rims andtire..have t osell all..will ship anywhere located in brooklyn ny, seroise buyers only. thanks Leo
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#2. Brake system troubleshooting chart - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 02:26:36 EST From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Brake system troubleshooting chart Dale Beuning recently added the subject article to my home page. Connect direct to: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/brakes/all_brake_system_troubleshooting.html This article was prompted by someone who asked about execessive brake pedal travel. Long story, but basically the dealer has changed out everything and the problem still exists. They don't know what to do, and want to know what to do next. Any comments welcome. Thanks, Ron
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#3. E36 Microfilter replacement - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 02:35:16 EST From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: E36 Microfilter replacement Dale Beuning recently added the subject article to my home page. Connect direct to: http://users.ids.net/~thompson/bmw/microfilter.html This question comes up often. Don't remember the details. I got involved with Michael Thompson on this long ago. Ron@unofficialbmw.com FLY BMW Marlborough, CT www.unofficialbmw.com/ronstygar.html
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#4. H&R coilovers - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 00:03:03 -0800 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: H&R coilovers I just installed H&R coilovers onto my 97 M3/4. The install went pretty smoothly, except for a couple of problems that I'll talk about in a minute. First drive shows a firm but very well controlled ride. I think it's a tad harsher than my H&R sports/konis over small bumps, but soaks up larger ones better. I'd call it an improvement or a wash depending on the roads where you live. Previously, I has some issues getting my JTD strut tower bar to fit, and several people with identical suspensions told me that they had no problems. (I have K-Mac camber plates up front) Turns out that the *@(#$*(@#$ alignment shop for some unknown reason rotated both camber plates 120 degrees. First off, no wonder the idiots couldn't get enough caster. Second, it seems that the studs are just barely not equidistant, because when I rotated them to their correct orientation, the STB bolted right in. About the H&R coilovers: first off, is the car going to settle? I've heard lots of people talk about the bilstein sport shocks not lowering the car much at first. The H&R kit uses revalved bilsteins. Is it going to get lower? I really hope so. I set the front adjustors at 3/4" above the bottom and the rears near the top (see below) , and I ended up about 1" **higher** than the car was with H&R sports. It's stock height in the rear, and a bit lower than stock in the front. I had a couple of issues with the rear suspension. For those of you not familiar with the rear of the H&R kit, it retains the stock spring location, but uses a shorter spring and a height adjustable lower perch. The adjustors are kind of a pain. I couldn't get the little snap ring back on, due to interference with the driveshaft at full droop. In fact, I couldn't get the ride height very low at all, due to this same problem. I'm going to try again tomorrow, and hope that I can get the car a bit lower in the back... It's at almost stock height! I'm afraid that I'll lose too much camber if I can't get the car lower. It could be that I need to take the spring out, so I can turn the adjustor, and bolt the shock up so I can see how far I can crank down the adjustor before it hits the driveshaft at full droop. To sum it up, let me know if I should expect the car to settle a bit (and hold off on an alignment because of it) and let me know if I did something weird with the rear adjustors... thanks for your help guys and gals. -kit 97 M3/4, now with H&R coilovers http://www.mindspring.com/~kitwetzler
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#5. HAMANN Sports-Kit Evo Questions - from carlo [deep design division]
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 11:12:31 +0200 From: "carlo [deep design division]" <carlo@deepdesign.co.za> Subject: HAMANN Sports-Kit Evo Questions <html><br> <div>Hi all</div> <br> <div>Has anyone had any experience with this kit for the Euro M3 3.0? </div> <br> <div>HAMANN Sports-Kit Evo for M3 3.0. 330 hp/243 kW </div> <br> <div>Airbox-System including all necessary fitting parts </div> <div>Recalibrating of standard Motronic </div> <div>Special exhaust manifold </div> <div>Sports air-filter </div> <div>High Performance Silencer with 2 stainless steel tips </div> <br> <div>cheers</div> <div>Carlo</div> 94 Silver Euro M3 <BR> --------------------------------------------------<br> <b>deep design division<br> </b><font color="#808080">design & advertising agency<br> fon</font><font color="#000000"> +27-21 423-0292<br> </font><font color="#808080">fax</font><font color="#000000"> +27-21 423-0471<br> </font><font color="#808080">e-mail</font><font color="#000000"> carlo@deepdesign.co.za<br> --------------------------------------------------<br> </font></html>
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#6. Fitting 17x9s - from John Van Houten
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 08:49:44 -0600 From: "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Fitting 17x9s Sorry it took me so long to respond, but here is my experience with fitting 17x9s on all four corners. I have two sets of wheels/tires (sorry no offsets): 17x9 Fikse FM10 with 245/45 MXX3 or 245/45 PP-S02 (had both, the S02 rules) 17x9 IFG A5 with 255/40 Kumhos And two E36M3s: 95 E36M3 - Ice9 with highly modified suspension (coilovers, camber plates, etc.) 97 E36M3/4 - bone stock suspension, no swapped plates, etc. Both tire/wheel combinations have been installed on both cars without problems other than minor rubbing on the strut tube and/or inner fender wheel (front at full lock). You will need to: 1. Roll the rear fenders. Use the fancy tool (best) or a wooden baseball bat (OK). 2. Use H&R 15mm spacers in the front with corresponding longer lug bolts. 3. You may need to modify your muffler, i.e. whack it with a dead blow hammer (not needed on my 97) I have heard of people having problems on their cars as all M3s are not identical, so YMMV. HTH, John 95M3 "Ice9" - His, wounded 97M3/4 - Hers, daily driver www.netcom.com/~jvanhout
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#7. RE: Fooling the seatbelt tensioner - from Monty Baugh
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 09:26:56 -0600 From: Monty Baugh <mbaugh@telecom-management.com> Subject: RE: Fooling the seatbelt tensioner I once did some work with a company that made pyrotechnic charges for airbags (they also manufactured munitions for Uncle Sam, and diversified in the late 80's). My recollection of the devices was that they worked exactly like the model rockets I had when I was a kid. The charges had an element (purely resistive load) cast into them that heated when current was applied. Not that I'm willing to do it with my car, but I think one would be safe to connect an Ohmmeter to the plug. For added safety, measure a high-value resistor in series with the plug. (I.e. measure out a 10K resistor, then measure total resistance across the plug with the 10K in series, then subtract the 10K back off.). MBaugh
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#8. A032R's ?... - from Luis Rueda
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 10:15:45 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.COM> Subject: A032R's ?... Fellow digesters, I recently bought a set of used SSR Integrals that came shod w/ used A032R's. The tires have some tread left but I was wondering how much life left do those tires have once the tread is gone. TIA Luis CCA member '95 M3 '88 M5
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#9. Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 plastic underpanel - from shane.a.kleinpeter@ac.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 10:45:27 -0500 From: shane.a.kleinpeter@ac.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 plastic underpanel >I don't understand how y'all are breaking the underpanel and losing it. I >attempted to flush my coolant this past weekend and removed the underpanel to >gain access to the radiator plug. That underpanel piece is shaped like a "U", >correct (when viewed from the front of the car)? The ends of the U are >attached to the subframe view 4 screws. I guess you guys crack the legs that >reach up to the subframe (the arms of the "U")?? This is how it happened on my car. Roebling Road two weekends ago, me hauling ass down the straight at 125 mph. Just as I get to the braking zone, I hear an incredibly loud scraping sound reverberating through the car., get through 1 and 2 without having any idea where it is coming from, slow down through 3 and 4 and take the exit road into the paddock. Look underneath the car and the underpanel is hanging down like a scoop, which explains the noise. I ripped it off (what was left anyway, most of it is one with the RR tarmac) with the help of a track worker, threw it in the trunk and headed back out. When I got in at the end of the session, I figured out why it broke. This thing is very poorly constructed for an aerodynamic part. Air is constantly pulling down on it, yet it is mounted by putting metal screws through some holes in plastic that are very close to the edge of the material. The material simply tears away and is sucked down to the ground, which does the rest of the work. Same basic poor design as the fender liners. BMW needs to put the mounting screws further inboard to keep them from tearing away the little piece of plastic. I ordered the JT underpanel on Friday, but have not heard anything, or gotten anything yet. I'm hoping to get it before Thanksgiving so I can occupy my In-laws by making my father-in-law help me install it, along with the rear shock mounts, which are shot as well. Shane Kleinpeter Tarheel Chapter '96 M3 '88 535is
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#10. 328i/is headers on '95 M3? - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 08:29:27 -0800 From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: 328i/is headers on '95 M3? M3-3.2/328i headers on a '95 M3? I keep seeing these headers for sale as an "upgrade" for '95 M3's. Is there any real improvement over stock here? Anyone do this mod? For the price, it seems like a reasonable swap... -peterg
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#11. RE: [E36M3] Lunatica Laguna - from MDadgar@handspring.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 08:44:00 -0800 From: MDadgar@handspring.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Lunatica Laguna Donna wrote: > FWIW, since I'm also a GGC Board member, I can second Sherm's > assurances that SP and LS have gotten to be very expensive venues. > And both tracks are doing construction, so don't expect prices to drop. Let me add the Disclaimer that Donna forgot: as a board member, she's also not required to go through the Lottery that the rest of us have to. She's guaranteed a spot at each GGC school. I recently checked into renting Laguna Seca privately. For 35 cars, it comes out to about $250/car. This is almost exactly what it cost us to rent Thunderhill 2 weeks ago. Is a CCA school worth a 120% premium over a private rental day (which nets you about 2X the track time)? Maybe. The CCA instructors are the best in the business. But I have to side with Jim on this one. The benefit side of the equation is starting to wane for CCA schools. I'll continue to do a couple per year to get the instruction, but the vast majority of my track time will be with other organizations. CCA schools are not the screaming great deal they were a year ago. ObM3 content: I'm replacing my rear shock mounts this weekend. I've got the instructions from racepad.com (which don't include torque specs). Any guess as to how long this will take? 2 hours or so? - Mark '95 M3 '97 528i 5-spd '88 M3, Hennarot ---- Mark Dadgar - Product Manager, Peripherals (650) 230-5037 voice - (650) 230-2100 fax mdadgar@handspring.com - Handspring, Inc. Check out Visor at www.handspring.com!